The engines shown on this page are very ordinary by serious engine collectors standards, but have provided a lot of challenges in restoring them to useful working condition. They clearly show how much engineering experience can be gained at very little financial outlay.
The Restored Well Pump
This 1942 Lister 1.5HP engine was bought in 1989 for the princely sum of £15-00p Sterling and restored and fitted with a Jabsco rotary vane pump bought for 50p at a local Traction Engine Rally.
It is used to pump water from our well to the greenhouse water tank for summer plant and garden watering purposes and is fitted with a Jim Rushton super silencer/muffler. This means it makes no more noise than say a hand sewing machine would, an essential precaution against being a nuisance neighbour.
The Engine Before Restoration
Very little work other than a cosmetic restoration was needed on this engine and it was soon earning its keep.
The Restored Phoenix Pump
Click the picture above to go to "The Phoenix Page 2" for more detail.
This wonderful piece of engineering was built by Phoenix Engineering in 1939 for Bicester Urban District Council and was used to pump out flooded houses, work sites, manholes etc. I aquired it from Bicester Engineering for £25-00. It had been laying derelict at the back of their yard under a hedgerow for at least 30yrs.
Needless to say every joint, pivot, fulcrum and bearing was rusted solid. It took a lot of heat, hammering and swearing to get it apart. Even the wheels of the trolley were rusted solid to their axles. New bearings, pivot pins, lubricators, carburetter float and chamber, fuel tank, fuel tap, lid etc. had to be made. Yes, I could have bought them but that wouldn't be such a technical challenge would it?
The end result can empty a sizeable garden pond in minutes and seriously wet your feet in seconds from its 4" or 100mm outlet pipe. I have been amazed at how much water a mere 2HP can shift with so little apparent effort.
Casting Brass Components
The Sand Mould Box Ready for Closing
An original component or a wooden model are used to make a hollow impression in the sand in the mould box into which the molten brass will be poured. Rapping the original sideways, lengthways and vertically in the sand mould will provide the necessary extra size to allow for shrinkage as the metal solidifies.
Pouring the Molten Brass
This is a dangerous activity. Experience in getting the moisture content of the sand exactly right, and surviving is not easily gained. Talk to someone with the experience before trying it, too dry and the mould will collapse, too wet and the resulting explosion could well kill you. Take care and get a good book on the subject of amature foundry work if you intend to have a go.
Machining the Carburrettor Body
A lot of machining of the cast components is necessary and a good dependable lathe is a big help. If you do not have access to a lathe remember a lot can be achieved using hand tools only.
A Selection of Cast Brass Components
Copyright ©1999 Jim Rushton
