ICELAND FOR VEGANS

This summer, my son and I escaped the British heat and went on a two week walking holiday to Iceland. A pleasant and interesting fortnight was spent travelling around Iceland by bus and on foot. We forded many rivers, walked many miles across lava fields, looked at glaciers, old turf houses, volcanic craters, Icelandic deserts, spouting geysers and bubbling mud pools and saw many magnificent waterfalls.

The Lake Myvatn area was particularly interesting. Here we saw pseudo-craters and many interesting laval shapes, as well as sulphur mud pools and the volcano, Krafla. Lake Myvatn is also famous for its many species of ducks and gets its name from the many species of midges and black-flies which also live here! (Incidentally, I would recommend the use of a midge hood if you decide to visit this area towards the end of July/August.) On the way to Lake Myvatn we stopped off at Glaumbaer Museum - an old turfed farm that probably dates from the mid-eighteenth century. Here you can walk through the various rooms: kitchen; dairy; pantry; guest rooms and store rooms and see old farm equipment, kitchen utensils and spinning wheels. Another interesting day was spent visiting Husavik (a small fishing village with a lovely little church) and treking in the Jokulsa canyon to the famous Dettifoss waterfall.

Of all the campsites that we stayed at, the last campsite, at Skogar, was particularly nice with grassy ground, its own waterfall and a good shower and bar. In Skogar village there is also an interesting, little museum which is well worth 200 kr to visit. Here you will find some old turf houses, a lethal looking mousetrap, a nice old boat, as well as many pieces of old Icelandic furniture. Unfortunately, due to heavy rain which caused the rivers to swell, we were not able to do our last eight hour walk from Skogar, which would have taken us over the Fimmvorduhals pass between two glaciers.

The last few days of the tour were spent relaxing and looking round the sights of Reykjavik, where it was wonderful to sleep in a proper bed again, after twelve days camping! (See the section on what to do in Reykjavik.)

The above guided tour, known as 'Wanderlust', is run by the tour company, Arctic Experience. And, as it involves walking on most days (usually for between three and eight hours and often over lava fields or snow) a moderate amount of fitness is required. I think that anyone who is interested in walking, bird-watching, geology/geography, or photography would enjoy this sort of holiday. But, be prepared for the Icelandic weather and pack good rainwear, walking boots, a warm hat and your thermal undies!

Bird watchers should also take binoculars for viewing sea birds and the many species of ducks that live on Lake Myvatn. The sort of birds that you are likely to see on this tour include: slavonian grebes, great northern divers, barrow's goldeneye and harlequin ducks, snow buntings, oyster catchers (at Skogar campsite), redwings and red-necked phalorpes. And, if you go before the end of July you will probably also see some puffins.

Arctic Experience offers a wide range of guided tours to Iceland and Greenland as well as advice for people who wish to travel independently in these countries. More information can be obtained at the Arctic Experience website or by email from: sales@arctic-discover.co.uk
Note: Vegans and vegetarians can order special meals at the time of booking.

The Icelandic Tourist Bureau also run glacier, horseback, or hiking tours around Iceland.


Eating Out in Reykjavik

Vegetarian Restaurants

  1. A Naestu Grosum - One woman restaurant

    Address: 20b Laugavegur (Reykjavik) Tel: 552 8410. (The main shopping street.)
    Open: Mon-Fri 11.30-14.00 and 18.00-22.00
    Saturday: 11-30-21.00
    Sunday: (Vegetarian banquet) 18.00-22.00
    A health food restaurant which offers many vegetarian pulse and grain dishes, as well as homemade bread and cakes and organic wines.

  2. Graenn Kostur

    Address: Skolavordustigur 8B (Reykjavik) Tel: 552 2028.
    Open: Mon-Sat 11-30-21.00.
    Sunday: 16-00 - 21.00
    Offers low-cost, vegetarian cuisine. Food is made without yeast, sugar, bleached flour, eggs or milk and this restaurant also has a take-away service. The day's special meal costs 395-495 KR. We tried chili samosas (300 KR) and a sort of chili butterbean stew with salad and rice. (About 400 KR) Both of these dishes were nice and spicy!

  3. Graent Og Gomsaett

    This restaurant also offers a range of vegetarian meals for about 490 Kr. Open: 9-17.00. Address unknown - contact tourist information in Reykjavik.

  4. Lakjarbrekka

    Situated next door to the Tourist Information, in Bankastraeti, Reykjavik. This (non-vegetarian) restaurant will cook vegan/vegetarian meals on request. I had a vegan quiche - a mixture of tasty fried vegetables served with a baked potato. It was followed by a very nice fruit salad. Check carefully that vegetables are being fried in vegetable oil.


Purchasing Vegan Food In Iceland

Specialised vegan products are not very easy to find in Iceland, so if you are organising your own tour, I would recommend that you take some non-perishable food items with you if at all possible. (You are allowed to take about 3 kg/person).

Reykjavik has a good health food shop - Heilsu Husid - which is located in Skolavordustigur, near to the Graenn Kostur restaurant. When I visited it in August it was well stocked with Tartrex pate, tahini, peanut butter, soya milk, marmite, vegan parmesan cheese (Florentino Parmazano), vegetable margerine/olive oil, tofu, Granovita egg and dairy-free mayonnaise, vegan pesto and a good selection of dried fruit and nuts. Oddly enough it also offered a good range of Japanese products such as pickled ginger, sushi vinegar, washabi paste and seaweeds! 'Instant' veggie meals such as Sosmix, vegeburger mixes and packets of Hera meals were also available: useful perhaps for youth hostellers or campers.

Fresh fruit, vegetables and salad ingredients are easily found in the supermarkets and green grocers in Reykjavik. Away from the capital, in more isolated areas, it does become more difficult to find fresh ingredients. Outside the capital, most supermarkets and some of the smaller grocery shops stock a selection of dried fruit (usually figs, apricots or dates ) and nuts and sunflower seeds.

The only place that I came across soya milk was in the health shop in Reykjavik, so it may be a good idea to take a supply of dried soya milk with you, if you do not like black coffee! Holland and Barrett sell a 250g tin of spray-dried soya milk. It is made by Allergycare and costs £3.45.

Typical Icelandic delicacies include: skyr (a cheese, which looks like thick yogurt), dried fish, boiled sheep's heads, soured ram's testicles, blood pudding and very fermented shark! These should not of course be eaten by vegans! I tried the pumpernickel bread (a type of rye bread) which is very nice and can also be purchased in the duty free at Keflavik airport. I couldn't translate all the ingredients, but similar bread on sale in Tesco's in the UK, seems to be suitable for vegans.


What To See In Reykjavik

  1. The Volcano Show

    Produced by Vilhjalmur and Osvaldur Knudsen. A two hour film show of some of Iceland's volcanic eruptions, including Surtsey, Heimaey, Myvatn (1975-84) and the recent 1996, Vatnajokull eruption. Shows daily throughout the year in English, French and German. English shows start at 3 pm and 8 pm, with extra performances in summer.

    Price 650 kr for 1 hour show, 850 kr for 2 hour show. A one hour historical film show on Iceland's nature and people is also available free to two hour ticket holders. Tickets can be purchased at the Volcano Show (located at Hellusundi 6a, Reykjavik), from the Tourist Information at Bankastraeti 2, or on the Internet at the Volcano Show Website. More information can also be obtained by email from: volcanoshow@centrum.is

    I really enjoyed this film show. It was particularly nice to sit down and watch it after all the walking! It showed many of Iceland's attractions, parts of Iceland in the winter, as well as quite a few of the recent eruptions. (If you can't visit Iceland, then videos, of some of the eruptions, can also be purchased from The Volcano Show Shop on the Internet. About half a dozen videos are available at this site including Villi Knudsen's Iceland and Fire on Heimaey. Payment can be made by Visa/Mastercard etc.

  2. The Tjornin Lake

    The lake is situated near to the Tourist information. Here you can take a pleasant stroll and view the many species of ducks and geese which live on the lake.

  3. The Water Storage Tanks

    Situated on the Oskjuhlio hill, sixty one metres above sea level, these tanks store water (82-130 degrees C) which comes from the geothermal zones of Mosfellsveit and Lauganes. Replaced in 1987, the tanks hold 24,000 cubic metres of geothermal water which is used to supply Reykjavik. From the balcony of the water storage tanks, there are excellent views over Reykjavik and on a good day it is even possible to see the glacier on the Snaefellsnes peninsula. Inside the building there are two restaurants, imitation mud pools and a spouting geyser!

  4. Churches

    Reykjavik has several interesting churches. Hallgrimskirkja - at the top of Skolavordustigur is very noticeable and Hateigskirkja on Hateigsvegur is a pretty little church which is interesting to photograph.

  5. Laugavegur

    Is the main shopping street for Icelandic sweaters, postcards etc. There is also a large supermarket here.

  6. The Arbaer Folk Museum

    Has many old buildings and is located on the outskirts of Reykjavik. I didn't have time to visit it, but I am told that it is well worth a visit.


Icelandic Websites

Further Reading

I would particularly recommend:
  1. Visitor's Guide to Iceland and Greenland. By Don Philpott. (MPC Hunter). Price £10.99.

  2. Ice and Fire. By Hjalmar R. Bardarson.

  3. Iceland. Nature's Meeting Place. By Mark Carwardine.


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