Mexican Cookery For Vegans

[Some Chillies!]

By Pauline Lloyd

Mexican food is becoming increasingly popular in the UK. And it's not hard to see why. It's tasty, economical, exciting and colourful. Meat and fish are of course eaten in the Mexican diet, but Mexican cuisine is ideal for vegans because beans are often used as the main source of protein in many dishes. Look through any Mexican cookery book and you will find plenty of recipes that vegans can use, especially if you are willing to substitute a vegan cheese or use TVP instead of mincemeat. And you will also find plenty of recipes for colourful salads and imaginative and spicy ways to cook vegetables too!

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Developed over many centuries, Mexican cuisine has been shaped largely by Mexico's climate, geography, indigenous foods and the native Indian (Aztec) culture. After the Spanish Conquest, Mexican cuisine was altered somewhat when the Spanish introduced wheat, Spanish cooking techniques, olives, walnuts and domesticated animals such as the pig which provided pig fat for frying.

On the whole, the Mexican diet is a pretty healthy sort of diet. Beans provide plenty of fibre. And fresh fruit and vegetables feature in many of the dishes. Another bonus is that very few specialist ingredients are needed to make Mexican food which is largely based on corn, tomatoes, peppers (especially chillies), dried beans, limes and avocados, all of which are readily available in the UK. But perhaps most importantly of all, in order to start making Mexican dishes you won't need to rush out and buy lots of special equipment! All you need to get started is something for mashing up beans - and a potato masher is fine, if you don't own a blender or food processor. And if you intend to make your own tortillas, then a *tortilla press may also be useful, although it's not an essential item as you can simply use a rolling pin, or the bottom of a heavy pan to press out your tortillas if you prefer. A pestle and mortar (or small coffee grinder) for grinding spices may also be useful.

* Available from cookware shops

Ingredients

Many of the ingredients required to make Mexican food can be easily purchased in the UK, either from your local market, or in any large supermarket. In addition, many supermarkets now stock a range of ready-prepared Mexican foods such as salsa, tacos and tortillas. So if you are short of time it's even possible to cheat a little here! However, it is important to be aware that ready-prepared foods can sometimes contain undesirable or non-vegan ingredients, so be sure to read labels carefully. Avoid any products that contain hydrogenated or partially-hydrogenated fats and be aware that many ready-made products also contain additives, sugar and/or dextrose and sometimes even milk products too. And of course any product which is made from corn can be made from genetically modified maize. I would suggest that if you want to purchase ready-made Mexican foods, that you look out for the Old El Paso range of Mexican products, as this company have assured me that they don't use any genetically modified ingredients. You will find that some of the Old El Paso range of products are suitable for vegans.

The ingredients most frequently used in Mexican cookery include:


Mexican Cuisine - The Basics

Read on if you are unable to distinguish a tostada from a quesadilla!

As mentioned earlier, Mexican food is largely based on corn, beans, tomatoes and chillies. But right at the heart of Mexican cuisine lies the tortilla. Tortillas are essentially unleavened flat breads that are either made from corn or from wholewheat flour. And in one form or another, tortillas form the basis of most Mexican dishes. A taco shell for example is essentially a deep fried tortilla which has been wrapped around a sausage of aluminium foil before frying, in order to create its characteristic horse-shoe shape. It is then filled, perhaps with refried beans, salsa, shreds of lettuce and grated cheese and is eaten by hand like a sandwich. Alternatively, a tortilla can be cut up into small wedges before frying and it then becomes a nacho. Nachos (or tortilla chips) are frequently used to scoop up a dip such as guacamole. Enchiladas are more elaborate tortilla-based dishes, usually consisting of rolled up or stacked tortillas with a tasty filling and a sauce and are generally baked in the oven. Tostadas are fried tortillas (sort of edible plates if you like!) with a tasty topping such as refried beans, salsa, vegan cheese and slices of avocado. Whereas burritos are rolled up, open-topped tortillas (rather like a long, thin, open envelope in fact) stuffed with a filling. Quesadillas? These are deep fried tortilla turnovers, often eaten as a snack in Mexico. And finally tamales! Well tamales are little parcels, made from corn husks. The corn husks are usually soaked in warm water until pliable and then they are filled with a dough made from masa harina, or cooked meat, salsa, strips of chilli pepper or cheese. The rolled up parcels are then steamed, the husks being removed just before eating.

After the tortilla, the next most important ingredient in a Mexican meal is the bean. Dried beans, (usually pinto, red kidney or black turtle beans) are cooked in boiling water as usual and after cooking are often mashed up to produce a heavy paste. This bean paste is then fried to produce what is known as Frijoles Refritos or re-fried beans. Re-fried beans are used in many Mexican dishes. They can for example be eaten as a stuffing inside taco shells, used cold as a dip which is then scooped up with tortilla chips, or else they can eaten spread on a tortilla. In Mexico, the beans are frequently mashed down in the pan as they are being fried using a special bean masher.

Now once you have some re-fried beans and some tortillas, you very nearly have a complete Mexican meal! But to accompany these two basics items you need some salsa and a good guacamole. Salsa and guacamole can be purchased ready-made from the supermarket. However it's very easy and far cheaper to make your own and this way you avoid all those unnecessary additives too. So what is Guacamole? Mole is the Nahuatl word for sauce and guaca? Well that simply refers to the shape of the avocado! So, guacamole is simply a type of sauce made from ripe, mashed up avocado, plus a few other ingredients to add extra flavour. Guacamole recipes are plentiful and each one is slightly different from the next, but lime or lemon juice, garlic, chillies and maybe some chopped onion or tomato are frequently added to the basic avocado puree. You will find a guacamole recipe in the recipe section below.

And now it's time to do the salsa! No, this is not some strange sort of dance, although if you add too many chillies to your salsa, then it could very easily turn into one! A salsa is a simple, but tasty sauce which is used to enliven many Mexican dishes. It's very easy and quick to make and usually contains chopped tomatoes and jalapeno chilli peppers, with perhaps some added lime juice and chopped coriander, depending on the exact recipe used.

Well now that you know the basics, you will soon be knocking up your own tostadas, enchiladas, tamales and quesadillas!

Eating in Mexico - A Typical Mexican Meal Plan

In Mexico today, the day would usually start with warm tortillas, fruit juice and either black coffee or chocolate for breakfast. A 'brunch' would then often be consumed around 10am, consisting of beans, tortillas and more coffee. Lunch is usually the main meal of the day and is served late, around 2pm. It usually consists of soup, a dry soup (rice or pasta in a sauce), meat with vegetables, beans, salad, fruit and coffee. And after such a large lunch, supper is served fairly late, around 8-9pm and is generally a light meal, perhaps of tortillas and beans, or tamales, followed by black coffee or hot chocolate.

With regard to Mexican food, tortillas are always eaten warm and are often eaten in the hand, creating little in the way of washing up! Finally two important points for you to note: First of all, if you are eating out in Mexico be aware that chicken stock is often used in Mexican cookery and can be included in recipes that can otherwise appear to be vegetarian. Secondly, refried beans aren't always fried in vegetable oil - they can sometimes be cooked in lard (bacon fat).


Shopping For Ingredients

Cool Chile Co - Produces non-genetically modified yellow corn masa harina flour (£3.99 for 375g) and packets of dried Mexican jalapeno chillies (approx £2.50 - £3.00/packet). I found these products in the speciality section in Sainsbury's supermarket.

Old El Paso - Their taco shells are vegan. Old el Paso also produce 'Sliced Jalapenos' and 'Thick and Chunky Salsa' which both seem to be vegan. Old El Paso products do not contain genetically modified ingredients. They are available from most large supermarkets.

Seeds of Change - Produce a ready-prepared, organic, vegan cooking sauce called 'Chilli with Jalapeno peppers'.

Meridian - Produce 'Organic Cool Salsa Tomato Dip' (£1.39).


Further Reading:

Please note: The first four books are not specifically written for vegetarians, but do contain some suitable recipes. Look out for them in your public library. They are useful for background reading, but are probably not worth purchasing.


Good Recipe Websites:


Some Easy Mexican Recipes For You To Try Out:

1. Flour Tortillas - Ingredients: 250g (8oz) of plain flour, 60g (2oz) sunflower margarine, 125ml (4 fl oz warm water). Method: In a bowl, rub margarine into the flour to give a fine even texture. Stir in the water until a dough forms. Knead for 2-3 mins, then let stand for 30 minutes at room temperature. Divide dough into 12 pieces and shape into balls. Roll out each ball on a floured surface until it is about 8 inches in diameter. Stack each tortilla between sheets of non-stick baking parchment. Heat an ungreased griddle or heavy frying pan over a moderate heat, until a little water sprinkled on the surface dances. Cook each tortilla for 20-30 seconds, until bubbly and the bottom is flecked with brown. Turn over and cook for a further 15-20 seconds, pressing the tortilla down with a fish slice if it puffs up. Wrap cooked tortillas in foil and reheat in the oven before serving (about 10 mins at 180C/350F/Gas 4). Source: Cooking Class Mexican Cookbook (Merehurst Limited).

2. Corn Tortillas - Ingredients: 250g (8oz) masa harina, 250-315ml (8-10 fl oz) warm water. Combine masa harina and 250ml of the water in a bowl. Add the remaining water, one tablespoon at a time, until a smooth, stiff dough is formed. Divide dough into 12 pieces and form into balls. Press out the tortillas, using a tortilla press lined with plastic on the upper and lower plate. Alternatively roll out the tortillas between two sheets of baking parchment, using a rolling pin, or use the bottom of a heavy frying pan to press. Cook as in previous recipe, this time cooking the first side for 30 seconds or until edges begin to dry out. Turn the tortilla over; cook for 45 seconds-1 minute until dry and lightly flecked with brown spots. Turn over and cook first side for a further 15-20 seconds until dry and light brown. Serve warm. Source: Cooking Class Mexican Cookbook (Merehurst Limited).

3. Guacamole - Ingredients: 1 ripe avocado, 1 chopped tomato, 1 chopped and deseeded chilli pepper, 1/2 tsp garlic powder (or 1 clove of garlic, crushed), 1 tablespoon of lime (or lemon) juice, 1/2 small, chopped onion (optional). Method: Cut the avocado in half and spoon out the flesh, placing it into a small bowl. Mash with a fork. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. (Own recipe)

4. Re-fried Beans - Ingredients: 8oz (225g) dried pinto or black turtle beans, soaked and cooked; 1 chopped onion; 1 medium, grated carrot (optional); 1-2 tsp of dried, mixed herbs; 1 tsp cumin; 1 tbsp miso; 3 tbs tomato puree. Method: Puree the beans in a blender/food processor, adding enough water to give a thick paste. Alternatively, place the beans in a bowl and mash with a potato masher, adding enough water to give the right consistency. Fry the onions, carrots, herbs and spices in a wok (or pan) in 1 teaspoon of olive oil for 3-4 mins. Remove from the heat and mix in the mashed beans, miso and tomato puree. Mix well and cook for a further 15 minutes (or until well heated) stirring every so often to prevent sticking. Nice in taco shells or spread onto tortillas and I use up any leftovers on toast! (Toast first side of bread. Spread refried beans on other side and toast until brown and well heated.) (Own recipe)

5. Salsa - Ingredients: 1 finely, chopped, medium tomato; 3 tablespoons of chopped coriander; 1 seeded and finely chopped, fresh jalapeno chilli; 1/4 onion, finely chopped; 1 tablespoon of lime juice. Method: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Allow to stand at room temperature for 1-2 hours. Source: Cooking Class Mexican Cookbook (Merehurst Limited).

6. Chilli Non Carne - Published in an earlier edition of Vegan News, this TVP-based chilli-con-carne recipe is nice inside tortillas or can be eaten with rice. And if you pour off any spare liquid, it can also be used as a filling for taco shells.

For more advanced Mexican recipes, try visiting some of the sites listed in the website section above!


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