Phakding to Gorsale,

lunchtime 2/5/98, around 2800 metres

The first thing was the suspension bridge... The morning’s walking was distinctly hairy, or ‘interesting’ as they say around here. The first thing was to face up to the suspension bridge...

I invited Colin to go over first and I inched myself forward straight behind him. Was I glad to reach hold of that first handhold! But I had only rehearsed in my mind that little bit of the crossing …

Thereafter I tried to walk along with my hands outstretched, holding onto the supports on both sides. It was rather scarier than I had imagined and I made it worse for myself by refusing to let go of my grip of either side.

When I got to the middle the bridge was beginning to wobble around quite a bit. Not only that, the supports at the side were much lower at the middle of the bridge. Holding on to them, my arms were much lower meaning that my body was doubled up and I was walking like a crab.

As I got nearer to the other side, the supports got higher and higher and I was being lifted off my feet trying to keep hold with both hands. Thankfully Dawa came on the scene and wrested my right arm from the support: “It’s OK, I’ve got you now.”

When I got to the other side I was like a coiled spring. All that built-up nervous tension had to be discharged. It made me rush off down the track with heart pounding and dry mouth. I just couldn’t stop for a good few minutes. But that was one of the two big challenges of the day out of the way: not elegantly executed, but fears had been faced up to and the obstacle overcome.

Steep-sided valleys and rushing water

Because we were at that stage of the river valley when the path snaked from one side to the other, there were another 3 or 4 suspension bridges this morning alone - but each one was either a new metal bridge (much safer, but still likely to wobble around in the middle), or shorter, or less high up, or over a narrower/slower part of the river. Nothing matched up to the terror of that first ‘big’ bridge just past Phakding.

Some of the new metal ones were slatted to let droppings pass though. You could see through them down to the torrents below. I was never quite so keen on those ones! In fact, the first slatted metal one I encountered, I followed straight behind Colin, with my eyes on him rather than looking down. As I said to him later: “I was never so glad to be looking at your backside!”

Each non-scary bridge we met did helped build up my confidence.... Pause, as lunch has arrived and am tucking into Garlic Soup, which the Sherpas say helps acclimatisation. We are resolved to have it as much as possible. (It helps our liquid intake also, which should be up to several litres a day because you become dehydrated by losing water vapour through the breath in the dry air at these high altitudes).

Fried potatoes and vegetables (greens) are to follow. All of these grow well around here up to some pretty respectable heights above sea level. Along with the Sherpa’s staple food Dahl Bhatt yesterday (rice, vegetables and lentils) I am becoming quite the vegetarian.

I don’t like walking close to exposed drops and choose to get as far away from the cliff edge as possible. Of course, the bits nearest the cliff edge sometimes have the safest footing: it's where all the Sherpas walk. I was grateful for a helping hand this morning on a couple of tricky or exposed bits of the path from the young Sherpa who is portering for the photographer we bumped into. The Sherpa people have a natural kindness.

As brave as a sheep

By Golly, the fried potatoes and vegetables (greens) have just arrived and both look and taste terrific! I am really filthy - no wash this morning. it's a very hot day, with water at a premium despite the thundering torrent beneath us (the Dubh Kosi).

We have also seen some wonderful scenery today as we travel up the steep river valley, transferring from one side to the other via these awful suspension bridges. And we have seen our first towering snowy peak: Thamserku at 6618 metres (around 22 000 feet).

Well, this afternoon is the big challenge, two or three hours of non-stop upward slog.

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