The Hammerhead
Some of us have been unlucky enough to have electronics issues with the
current head ( I have a flaky connection to cell 1 for example). I also would
like more independence on the handsets and a HUD (Heads Up Display) for when I'm
not looking at the handsets.
So it was welcome to see that there are alternative electronics units out
there. I was fortunate to be in the first order batch so
see
http://www.electricfilm.com/hammerhead.html for full details. but here are
the main bits
So far utterly stunned by how much is in this package, took me
a while (with Kevin's help) to suss out the menu's, so to save everyone time
I've stared on the Unofficial Users guide to the Hammerhead
Its a Word .doc at present but when its a bit better and more
stable I will PDF it, Please download and use it, but tell me anything that's
wrong or missing
Hammerhead Unofficial User's Guide
top...
OK so the unit is still in development and
improving fast. Kevin is swamped with folks e-mailing and calling him so Kevin
and I have agreed for him to post a weekly status report which I will host here.
Report 17/6/03
1) We have 100 Heads now fully cut, awaiting the Engraving on
the
top. Those should be done by next week, and ready for assembly.
2) I spoke with Jim (the software guy) this AM about our progress,
and he believes he'll have something worked out for me in the
Proportional Control area at the end of the week. We'll then test it
out on the bench, and if it works well, will distribute it to
selected divers for in-water testing and verification.
3) Meanwhile, we have more and more reports of successful dives on
the Hammerhead, with more VR-3 Traces to put up on the web site -
which I'll try to do in the next few days.
Steve Cowley now has over 45 dives on the Hammerhead. Mike Dyson has
about as many as Steve, at up to 71 Meters (234 fsw) - Mark Nix has a
few too, but I'm not exactly sure how many total. Lots of other guys
have sent me e-mails about successful dives with the unit, but these
three seem to have the most.
4) Hardware Updates: We have issued the P.O. for engineering
development of the new boards, which will include all the hardware
goodies I mentioned in my last "Mole" report. Once again, these
things take time, and those of you who are waiting anxiously for
these updates please be patient while we build them, test them, and
make sure they work just like you want them to. These updates are
going to make the Hammerhead the most advanced CCR
Controller/Decompression Computer in the world, so your wait will
prove very worthwhile.
5) Mechanical Updates: We're also working with a new design firm to
make changes to the Wrist Unit which will make fabrication/repair
easier and cheaper. Right now, the existing Wrist Unit is doing
really well out there, with only one guy (Tom Mount) so far busting
one up (the Back, which as most of you know we have replaced with new
Lexan). There is one change to the Head that is coming up which is
rather inconsequential to the end-user, so there really isn't any
need for me to bring it up.
6) We slowed down shipments of the new HH's to end-users so that we
could a) Add the new Backs and Strap Retainers, and b) to add the
latest Software (when it is done). If you are waiting for your
Hammerhead, this is most likely the reason (see the recent post from
Rob Drury). 3rd Run Orders are still in the building phase, and will
have all the new software already installed.
7) Speaking of software: Phi Le has agreed to pick 5 to 10 of the
Gradient Factors proposed by Joe Radomsky and give his reasons why he
feels that they should correspond to the Conservatism Factors of 1-5
(or 1-10 as the case may be) - we're going to open that up to public
debate, which is a huge mistake I'm sure... ; -)
We'll then integrate those numbers into the HH as the Conservatism
Factors (which will then be published for all to see) which will be
available as the "Standard" Conservatism Settings. Note: There will
*also* be an "Advanced" Gradient Factor Menu which you can elect to
use instead of the "Standard" one where you will be prompted to enter
your Hi/Lo Gradient Factor - so those of you who keep telling me that
you "know this stuff inside and out" can enter your own combo's.
Once again, my reaction to various opinions is to simply give you the
choice as an option, rather than dictating what you have to use.
We'll have limits on it, so people can't bend themselves (unless they
just want to blow off stops), but beyond that, you'll be free to let
your imagination run wild.
8) Everyone who I've talked to who knows Deco says that if we do the
above, then we don't need Pyle Stops, so I guess Ritchie is being
blown out of the water, to use an apropos metaphor... ; -)
Problems: Here are the problems we've had in the last week or two:
a) One diver reported that they got water in the Fischer Connector
after a dive. After discussing it with them (over e-mail), and then
with another diver, it was determined that the water might be coming
from the Fischer Connector Sleeve AFTER the dive, when the unit is
disconnected. This does NOT affect the dive at all. The diver who
reported this condition is going to get back in the water next week
to give it another go, and to observe his unit closely to verify that
everything functions properly.
b) We had one more unit drain it's battery too fast because of the
Dip Switch being set to the "on" position. I sent Mole some photo's
of the proper and improper position of this, which I believe he has
posted to his website. This problem will vanish in the next
software/hardware update and will no longer be an issue. However, if
you notice that your screen dims, or your unit "restarts" (you see
the "Juergensen Marine" startup screen over and over) then you have
dead batteries.
c) Batteries: I've had a few guys tell me that they are having
problems finding batteries. Here in the States, there is a source
for these batteries that is cheap. Here is the link to the exact
battery we use in the Secondary (which will work just fine in the
Primary, too, by the way) - it is like $9 each - way cheaper than
I've heard you guys getting charged by the local computer store:
http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/ls14250.html
Again, when we have the new Hardware done, you'll be able to use a
1.5v AA alkaline cell if you need to.
d) Calibration: I've fielded a bunch of calls from guys about
issues that turn out to be Calibration related. I had thought that
over the last 8 months I had explained this properly, but I need to
do it again. Below is the right way to calibrate the sensors on a
Hammerhead:
* Remember you have a very powerful tool in the HH with the "MV
Display" menu (available in the OPT menu). I suggest you use this to
your advantage in a number of ways - the first being verification of
100% O2 concentration in your loop (or as close as you can get to
100%). Here's how you do this:
* Take the Head off your rig.
* Put your R-22 Sensors in a baggie, along with your O2
Analyzer (so you can independently verify your O2 concentration)
* Plug your Sensors into the Banana Block of the Hammerhead
* Turn on the Primary and Secondary Display
* Select "MV Display" from the OPT Menu of the Secondary.
* Add Oxygen to the baggie until your O2 Analyzer (visible
throught he plastic) reads 100% (or 99.8, etc, you know what I mean).
* Read the mV output from the 3 Sensors as displayed by the Secondary.
THAT number is what your sensors should be expected to output in a
100% O2 environment - meaning, if you put the sensors back in the
Head, put the Head back on the rig, and then drive out to the ocean
to go diving, and do a loop flush on the boat of O2 for calibration
purposes, those sensors should read the same number on the Wrist Unit
(either Primary or Secondary) as they did in the baggie. If they are
lower, then you have NOT flushed your loop properly.
* Remember, our electronics will REJECT any sensor which does
not output a minimum of 40 mV in 100% Oxygen. If your sensor will
not output that minimum voltage, then it is likely bad.
* Once you have checked this mV output on the bench, then go
ahead and Calibrate BOTH the Primary and Secondary Displays. These
units hold calibration very well, so you don't have to keep
re-calibrating them every day, provided the mV output in 100% O2
remains relatively the same.
Shipping Delays: Once again, I apologize for delays in getting units
out to those of you who are waiting. The 1st and 2nd Runs are just
about all delivered, and the 3rd Runs are in production, as I noted
above. We're going to have another burst of deliveries like we did a
couple weeks ago when this new software is done, and we will be
making an update facility ready for you guys in the UK that is
friendly and quick.
That should just about do it for this week's report. Things are
moving along here, and I want to get units in everyone's hands
quickly. That will happen very soon, then we will actually have
stocked inventory of units which we can ship upon order. Future
updates will happen on a somewhat timely basis
I need to get this off to Mole so he can go to sleep.
As always, everyone knows my number, if there are any specific
questions you'd like answers to, please don't hesitate to call.
Take care,
Kevin Juergensen
Juergensen Marine.
DIP SWITCH UPDATE
Hey Stephen,
Over the last week or two, I have discovered that there are 3 or 4 units out
there which have one dip-switch left in the "on" position on the Primary
Display. In order to Calibrate the Pressure Transducer, we flip this switch
(which enables the "Calibrate PSI" option in the Diagnostics Menu).
However, if it isn't flipped to the OFF position afterward, the unit will use
about 300 micro amps of power more in the shutdown mode - so your batteries
will not last as long. (300 micro amps is minuscule, but it is higher than
the 30 micro amps the unit uses in the "off" (sleep) mode).
This will be fixed in the next version of software - but it is something I'd
like people to check in their units now anyway. It is very simple to correct
this, just take a jewelers screwdriver and flip the switch to the down
position (like the other three). Switch #1 is the only one affected in this
manner.
Here are some pics:
This is the position of the switches "normally" that is - the way they SHOULD
BE.
In the shot above - you can see the Dip Switch in the position needed for
Pressure Transducer Calibration - in this position, the electronics uses more
juice than it should, so your batteries will not last nearly as long - make
sure to flip this switch (CAREFULLY) to the "Down" position.
If you flip your unit over, you will see where the Dip Switches are located.
Notice one of them is in the "On" position. You'll want to correct that, or
send it back to us to flip it for you, otherwise you will burn though
batteries at a slightly faster rate than when the switch is flipped down.
Please note: This is not a huge deal, and as I said above, only a small
number of units were released like this - it ONLY affects the Primary Display
- so the Secondaries should not have battery drain issues.
One other thing - since the electronics are never really "off" (just asleep)
the best way to preserve your batteries if you are not going to be diving for
a while is to simply remove them from the unit and store them separately.
Thanks for spreading the news.
Kevin Juergensen
Juergensen Marine.
Report 2/6/03
On Friday, I met with our Software/Hardware
engineers and we worked
out some issues to be resolved in the next version of the Hardware.
We have to build more boards because the initial run was to cover 52
sets of Hammerheads, and we now have a total of 75 sets either
delivered, being shipped, being prepared for shipment, or on order.
We also have dozens of outstanding orders for CCR Controls (Mark
15/15.5 and others) which we need to fill.
Since there were 2 "greenwire" fixes that had to be made on the
current revision of electronics, we had to do a re-design of the
board anyway, so I've elected to go the whole nine yards on the next
rev. This will include:
HARDWARE
a) New Power Supply: You'll be able to use a AA battery if you
want, or the current 1/2 AA Lithium sets.
b) Battery Display: Low Battery Warning will be included in the set.
c) Backlight Brightness Control: You will be able to adjust the
brightness of the backlight.
d) LED Brightness Control: You will be able to adjust the
brightness of the LED on the HUD or Wrist Units.
e) LED Activation Control: You will also be able to select which
LED's where you want to activate, and when you want them activated
(the new "DAC" Dynamic Alarm Control).
f) IRDA: Yup. Infrared I/O. It will take a while to build the
software for it and make sure it works, but the hardware will be in
there ahead of time.
g) Audio Alarm: When I was over at the factory, they had a new
Heart Monitor they had built which had this small piezo-electric
beeper on it that was louder than hell, and tiny. So I told them I
want that on our board too. You'll be able to enable/disable it if
you want.
h) Flash Memory: We'll have it available for the
i) Hide Diagnostics
j) Dip Switches
316 microamps during sleep
etc...
Report 26/5/03
Today is Memorial Day, so it's
a national holiday, and no one is working - not even me - I worked Saturday and
Sunday instead, and am playing with the kids today.
There isn't much to report this week - everything that we talked about last week
is still ongoing, except that I'll be picking up the new Lexan Backs and
Stainless Steel Strap Retainers on Wednesday.
Another 5 Hammerheads came in at the end of the week, so we should have more
happy people out there pretty soon.
We're going to be taking delivery of the new Heads 10 to 20 at a time (we've
ordered 100), and are going to hopefully have all of them done by the end of
July, so we should be well taken care of for any additional orders that will
come this summer.
Since there isn't much new to report in the way of stuff happening (things don't
happen in one week in this business it seems) - I thought that maybe I'd write a
piece that is best described as "Random Thoughts".
As all of you know, we are designing a new algorithm for the Hammerhead - the
reason we are doing so is because we have had reputable folks such as Mike
Dyson, Steve Cowley, Mark Nix, Dave Thompson, Bob Howell, and even our old pal
the Mole giving us feedback about Set-Point management for the last few months.
The debate - and make no mistake about it, it IS a debate - centers around how
critical maintaining Set-Point is in a CCR. Now, at first blush, it may seem
like a no-brainer, obviously a CCR should maintain Set-Point perfectly - that
is, no matter what you are doing, ascending, descending, working hard, relaxing
while studying fish, the CCR should keep Set-Point exactly where you set it.
But the real world does not work like that.
And let me get one thing out of the way right here - I have had conversations
with almost everyone who has purchased or ordered a Hammerhead, as well as
notable CCR divers such as Richard Pyle, Tom
Mount, John McKenney - and with the exception of about 3 divers, everyone claims
that their units (Inspirations, Cis Lunars, Mark 15's, etc.) exhibit no better
accuracy than a tenth of a ppO2 (.1) during normal dive operations, meaning
throughout a complete dive, ascending, descending, zig-zag patterns, diluent
flushes, etc. I myself have been diving rebreathers longer than many of you out
there, and have never seen anything maintain .01 (hundredth of a ATM). I do not
believe for a minute that all the Inspirations out there maintain ppO2 that
closely.
That said - I'm not making an argument for sloppy ppO2 maintenance, but merely
pointing out that many arguments I've seen lately on the Internet are rather
"academic" in that they purport that swings of a tenth of a ATM affect diving
operations - which they in fact do not. I will make my point about this here,
then move on to the different considerations we're balancing during the further
development of the Hammerhead software.
Let me explain: For all intents and purposes, the only reason to want Set-Point
Maintenance as good as, or better than a tenth of a ATM is for decompression
considerations, for clearly you only need .21 regularly to survive, and you
would probably prefer not to breathe anything over 1.8 for very long. So - If
you are diving a decompression dive, and your tables (notice I did not say
computer, for in the case of the Hammerhead and I believe the VR-3, the actual
ppO2 output from the Sensors is taken into consideration) is basing your
decompression stops and TRT on a Set-Point of 1.2, but your loop ppO2 is
averaging 1.1 throughout your dive, you will not under any normal
decompression table, get bent due to that tenth of a ppO2 deficit - if you DO,
then you were most likely asymptomatic for DCS anyway, even at 1.2.
Read that again: A tenth of a ppO2 is not enough to make a tinkers-damn in Hell
when it comes to decompression. If you are cruising the edge of DCS that
closely, you are more than likely getting bent on every dive anyway, and just
not feeling it. 5 more minutes in the water is not going to necessarily kill you
(as long as you're not breathing that same water) - so cutting your deco down to
the absolute minimum will one day make you very unhappy - trust me. I have
several friends with hip replacements, shoulder replacements, and fused
vertebrae to attest to lifetimes of treating deco like it was some kind of
nuisance. This is why everyone gives the end-user degrees of conservatism in
their dive programs - us included. Deco is an inexact science at best.
Way back when, when there were only a handful of us diving CCR's outside the
military, we decided (since we all knew each other) that 1.2 seemed a good place
to dive our Mark 15.5's (and in the case of Rich Pyle, 1.3 on his Mark 4 and
5's). The US Navy was still diving .7 in the Mark 15's and 16's.
We knew then that according to the Navy even though it was rare, they had had
guys tox out at 1.8 in the chamber, and it didn't seem to matter what condition
the diver was in, or what the specific condition was - it happened almost
randomly. I believe it still does. Some divers, I'll mention Rich Pyle here
again, have done dives at 3 to 4
ATM of O2 and not known it for minutes before checking their displays. Once
again, Otox is another inexact science, and no one can be sure when or who it
will strike. So when it came to Maximum O2 Exposure, it seemed that 1.2 ATM was
high enough to give some deco benefits (over .7 for sure), yet far away enough
from the "magic" number of 1.6 (which we decided was far enough away from tox to
be the maximum safe distance) that we could handle some spikes during the dive.
The Mark 15, 15.5 and 16 maintain Set-Point to around 10% +/- In all the
literally thousands of decompression dives done by all the Mark 15 series divers
I know, none of them have ever been bent when following tables - I do know a
couple who have been bent when they blew off significant amounts of shallow
stops, but none from following relatively conservative tables.
This is my long way of saying that I think that stressing the accuracy of
Set-Point maintenance to less than a tenth of an ATM is a bit like picking fly
poop out of pepper. It really, really doesn't matter worth a hill of beans,
folks - really. You can argue all you want about it, you can make a big deal out
of it, and draw graphs and charts showing
how it "should" affect things, but the bottom line is that in real live down and
dirty diving, the only thing that is important is that you don't drop below .2,
and you don't climb above 1.8.
HOWEVER: Now that I've belittled the subject, let me tell you how we're
approaching the improvement in the Hammerhead algorithm. Pointing out the
relative insignificance of maintaining a loop ppO2 better than .1 does not mean
that it is not a goal to be approached seriously. After all, we have been told
that the EU standard calls for maintenance of loop ppO2 to .03 during dive
operations, and a good friend of mine who works on the Mark 16 says that that is
the intended goal of the electronics for that particular unit (though mine has
NEVER kept it closer than .07-.1 for me), and if you assume a metabolic rate of
1.5 LPM, and an injection rate of .06 l per 1 second injection cycle, you'd have
to fire the solenoid around 20 times a minute to maintain the .03 minimum
distance from Set-Point
((Math: Diver Consumes .025 Liters Per Second of O2 (1.5 lpm - standard low
exertion diver) - therefore, ppO2 could be assumed to drop by the same number.
Assume the farthest allowable distance from Set-Point = .03, then you'd have to
be injecting .03 of O2 around every third second for a duration (at least in the
Hammerhead) of 1/2 second.)).
If you don't mind overshooting your ppO2 by .03, then you can cut the solenoid
firing rate in half.
Now, all this is assuming a diver sitting on the bottom not moving very much, or
changing depth at all. What happens (as was put to me by some well meaning diver
recently) when you have to do an emergency blow from
100 meters? Keeping your loop ppO2 to within .03 of Set-Point is, of course, a
joke at that point - keeping yourself from embolizing should be your first
concern - but for the sake of argument, lets say that you are doing a faster
than normal ascent, how do you design a system to manage your ppO2 and account
for differing ascent/descent rates, Interstage Pressure, variable flow rates
(because they do change, no matter what anyone says) and even such an obscure
issue as Oxygen purity?
Nonetheless - I firmly believe that we can do a much better job of Set-Point
Maintenance, if for no other reason than many folks out there feel that it is an
important issue, and furthermore, we want to make sure that at ALL depths, and
with most any kind of regulator, we minimize the risk of overshooting the ppO2,
which is a bigger concern to me personally than maintaining Set-Point to the
hundredth of an ATM.
And the answer to this issue I have been told by people smarter than me, is an
adaptive algorithm. There are no doubt many kinds of algorithms out there, but
there are two we are looking at for the Hammerhead.
The first uses a sort of fuzzy-logic to determine exactly how much O2 to add to
the loop. It does not use any input from a Pressure Transducer, so it has no
idea how fast the loop ppO2 will change upon injection, because it has no idea
where it is in the water column. I don't know for certain, but I believe this is
similar to what is being used in the current Inspiration. In this version of the
algorithm, the unit fires the solenoid at a pre-determined distance from
Set-Point, but only for a very short pulse. It then waits for a given time
(usually very short) to determine how much that injection changed the ppO2
output from the Sensors - it then must compute a slope to determine exactly how
long the Solenoid should open to move the ppO2 into the acceptable range (in
this case, .03 - again, I'll say "HA!" to that).
The second uses input from the Pressure Transducer to determine how long to fire
the solenoid. This version is the one I'm favoring right now, since it is
information the computer already has at its disposal, and why not use it if it
makes it just that much more accurate? This system will know how deep it is, and
be able to make assumptions about flow rate/loop volume prior to firing. Of
course, all this still has to be adaptive, since a particular divers Interstage
Pressure can vary from day to day, or rig to rig. It will use both Duration of
fire (Gain) and Frequency of firing to maintain Set-Point. The reason for this
is very simple - in an over-the-shoulder CCR, where the injector
is located adjacent to the Intake Port, controlling ppO2 using Gain only is a
philosophy I do not agree with. There is, in my opinion, insufficient mixing of
the gas taking place. Should you have a situation whereby you flush your loop
completely down with Diluent at depth, and then allow the system to begin
raising the ppO2 electronically, you have no control during a multi-second fire
of the solenoid of your inspired ppO2. The bolus of O2 injected over 10 seconds
or more could be as high as 2.5 ATM - far too great in my opinion, even for
short duration exposures.
Oh yeah - and while we're on the subject of information the computer has at its
disposal: I've received some comments from folks saying that they can "see"
themselves breathe while on the Hammerhead, and
that they can also "see" the injection of Oxygen occur by looking at the
response of the Sensors on their Primary or Secondary display. The reason for
this is simple - our electronics polls the sensors 8 times per second, checking
their mV readout which is then compared to the stored slope which was calculated
when you did your Calibration - that data is then displayed at the same rate it
is sampled, albeit a cycle or two behind - so what you are seeing is real-time
ppO2 changes as they happen at the sensor. We do not buffer this output. We have
been
asked to do just that, but I have yet to get a good enough argument as to why
the end-user (the diver) should not receive the same data the computer is
getting from the sensors. The reason I got at the time was that "people will
think something is wrong - you're better off just filtering the information they
get so you don't get phone calls." On
the one hand, they were right, we have received some calls, but most divers I
believe would rather have ALL the information than some buffered version of it.
You guys tell me if I'm wrong here.
But back to the Algorithm: Now, remember the variables that we're dealing with
here - first off, you've got the accuracy/inaccuracy of the Oxygen Sensors. Then
you have the fact that the electronics by their very nature must average the
three outputs (or at least the outputs of the cells not voted out) - which in
itself could account for
real-world inaccuracies of greater than .03 - then you have the very real
Calibration issue, which can be affected by impure Oxygen, or improper flushing,
or a sensor that is starting to go stale (and whose curve is losing linearity -
something everyone needs to be more concerned about). Add on top of that,
variables in Interstage Pressure, Flow Rate, Diver Metabolism and Dive Profile,
and you begin to see just how hard it can be to try and manage ppO2 within the
tolerances stated above.
That is why - thank god - I do have people working on this issue who are smarter
than me. I'll be very interested in seeing just how close they manage to get
this to work any better than the method we've been using for years.
Its getting late, and I wanted to get this out before Mole went to bed, but we
can discuss this more during the week I'm sure. Like everything else, we're open
to ideas and comment. This is an exciting and evolving field, and no one has yet
perfected it.
This isn't much of a Mole Report as it is a discussion of some of the logic and
philosophy that goes into designing a CCR system. I am certain that others have
approached the subject from different viewpoints, but the end result should
always be within a fairly narrow range for effective control.
In other news, we're still working on the new electronic package, which has the
latest requirement of being able to be used with high-output sensors - some Mark
15 owners have asked us to make it compatible with the R-10 Sensor from
Teledyne, and our samples here show that they put out around 35mV in AIR and up
to 363 mV in 3 ATM's of O2 (that's enough to start my car!).
I hope that you all read this and think about what I have to say before jumping
up and yelling at me. We're not new to this field, and we've got literally
hundreds of systems out there that have been working for years and years.
Remember, when it all comes down to it, what every rig is, is a bag of gas with
O2 put into one end, and CO2 removed at the other - the rest is just plumbing
and electronics. Our electronics have been working (with those same solenoids)
in Mark 15's, 15.5's 16's, Megalodon's, KISS's, and now Inspirations.
But we never stop learning, and there are always better ways to do things - you
just have to remain open to other ideas.
And that is why I truly appreciate everyone's support and input to make this
system better than ever.
Report 19/5/03
Hey Stephen,
I'm sending you this e-mail from my brother-in-law's AOL account - I'm in
California picking up my family (they've been here since May 1st, giving me time
to work on Hammerheads and Cis Lunars), and spending a day at the beach.
There is nothing huge to report this week, except that the new Backs (made from
1/4" Lexan) and Stainless Steel Strap Retainers will be ready for me to ship out
when I get back to Pennsylvania.
Before I left, I issued yet another Purchase Order for more Hammerhead Parts -
we're making 100 more sets to keep up with demand - and part of that is the new
electronic boards and software updates.
We have not yet completed any software updates because the new boards will be
incorporating some changes which will also require software "handles" on them
(such as the new power supply, and the ability to turn on/off some functions on
the boards via software switches, or a combination of software and dip
switches). The new software will be backward compatible so that current
Hammerhead Systems will be upgradeable.
We're also still collecting data from divers out there to refine the system to
their desires. I've heard recently that some divers would like the LED in the
DIVA to be brighter, so we're looking at ways to improve that via
software/hardware. We may elect to change the actual LED's that go into the
DIVA, but we need to do some tests before we can make a change which may affect
battery life.
Hardware wise, we are making only some minor changes to the Hammerhead design,
including some internal dimensional changes to make the unit easier to assemble,
and are also giving serious consideration, based upon the input from guys like
you, Bob Howell, and Dave Thompson to offering 4 Sensor Ports on the Intake
Spindle. This would allow divers to use that option should they decide for
themselves that it is better. Once again, we have conflicting requests/reports
on this issue, and the easiest way to deal with these things is to generally
give the diver the choice.
Mark Nix sent me a very nice picture of him doing some wreck penetration. I asked him
to post that to the Juergensenmarine list. It's good to know that the unit is
being used in such demanding conditions and is giving the end-user the
confidence to perform that kind of work underwater.

As I told you in our phone conversation, we're not done making the Hammerhead
better - it is a continuing process which we are committed to. As we develop
new, improved features, we'll make them available to everyone who owns these
systems.
I'll be out of the office until Wednesday, when we all return from CA. After
that, it's back to work for the summer, making more Hammerheads, and hopefully
catching up with all the Cis Lunar and Mark 15 work that we've got.
I'm not in touch with my e-mail right now, except on a haphazad way (via an AOL
connection), so if you have any questions, please wait until Thursday to pose
them, as I won't be back in the office working until then.
The next "official" Mole Report will be next Monday, but I'm sure we'll be
talking before then.
Hope you are having a great week!
Talk to you soon,
Kevin Juergensen
(via Jose Lamas' computer)
top...
Mounting the Wrist units. The current units don't have anyway
of mounting them provided (bit of an oversight really, and I know Kevin is
working on this). I had an old Dive Rite Wrist slate with the 2 extra slates.
These were ripped off and 10 minutes with the Swiss army knife Later I had 2
wrist mounts and still the main slate. The Bungee with the slates was perfect
for mounting. At first I used Velcro straps to secure the units, but this was a
mistake as you cant adjust Velcro wearing gloves and it doesn't take up any
slack at depth so it was replaced by knife straps that work well



top...

My Wrist Units, showing weird reading as they are not plugged in. The top one
is the master and is in OC mode, the base is erroring as no cells are connected
and the backlight if flashing

My head unit showing the snazzy mowed grass machining effect, and yes I've
already been at the Dymo labeller. Note blanking plug for 4th sensor (cable
provided) so I can stick my VR3 in there if required

Inside the lid, you can see the easily removable Cell holders, all clearly
numbered

Under the cell holder (20 seconds to remove, no tools required) you can see
the neat wiring and heavy duty solenoid. The wiring is all gold connectors and
easily replaced. All other wiring is sealed into the head making it waterproof.
No need to fret if you flood this baby

Close up of the Heavy Duty solenoid (from a Zerox Photocopier!!!!!) and the
lovely gold banana plugs. Notice the brown/red/orange top plus which match the
wires colours. Only Tom Mount could wire this up wrong 8-) !!!!!!

The DIVA and heads up display. I made the mistake of putting this in my mouth
when I plugged the secondary unit in (with no cells), No way will you miss this
alarm (now where's all my fillings gone!!)

The cell plate and the secondary throwing an error (no cells) note the
flashing red LED. With both wrists flashing, your nose flashing and teeth
trembling, there is no way you are not going to know you have a problem
top...
This section is Stuff about the Hammerhead direct
from Kevin At Juergenson
Marine or from their web site

ANNOUNCING
The
Juergensen Marine Hammerhead™
A New
Generation of Diving!
We are
very proud to announce the beginning of production of the ALL NEW Juergensen
Marine "Hammerhead" replacement Head/Electronics assembly for the Inspiration™
Rebreather!


The first
25 Sets (50 Pieces) have arrived, and are ready for assembly! 12/20/02
For
several years, Juergensen Marine, in association with the late Will Smithers of
Digital Deep, has been building and installing digital electronics for Closed
Circuit Mixed Gas Rebreathers, as well as building and designing new products
for the civilian Mark 15/15.5 CCR's used in past years by the US Navy.
We have
now applied the knowledge gained over the years to the Inspiration™ rebreather,
to come up with the Hammerhead™ Replacement Head and Electronics.
Let's look
at what's new about this system:

This is
the inside of the new Head. You will notice there is now a solid plate which
holds the Sensors. They are facing down, and are well spaced to give plenty of
room for installing them into the Replacement Head - Here's a graphic look
inside the new head:

In this image, the Head has been graphically
removed so you can see the internal "guts" of the Hammerhead, including the
Oxygen Solenoid port, the Banana Plug Box and the Three Oxygen Sensors.
Here's what you don't see above:

We have
included a port for a 4th sensor - the diver can use their VR-3 or HUD with a
different sensor (say a R-22DHO, or even a K1-D with a proper fitting to hold
it) in order to verify the operation of the other three. An innovation for the
truly paranoid! Now - you may be wondering, "how hard will it be to open this
and change your sensors?...."

With the
removal of one nut (the round gray one in the picture above this one) your
Sensor Plate is removed.
Now, for
the next innovation:

One of the
improvements we've made to the original system is how to connect your Oxygen
Sensors, yet keep the pathway between them and the Control Electronics dry and
free of any water "creep." What we came up with is shown here: the plugs out of
the 3 sensors actually lead to micro Banana Plugs which are Gold Plated Brass -
the Jacks for these are permanently mounted in the Head and sealed. That means
that the wires leading from your sensors have connectors at either end - one end
is the Molex that goes into the actual sensor, and the other end is a Gold
Plated Brass Banana Plug - if either end of these gets corroded, you toss them
out and put in new ones for about $5. No more worries about twisting wires, bad
connections to your sensors, or globs of plastic all over the place.

Since the
Battery and Control electronics are in the Wrist Unit - we have eliminated much
of the clutter found in the original head itself, and consequently have lots of
room for the Sensors to stand straight up (as well as adding a 4th). The ports
in the top of this unit can be configured in any way that the diver wants to -
they come standard with a Primary and a Secondary Display (the Primary controls
the Solenoid, the Secondary is a backup Display which is independently wired and
powered - for TRUE redundancy) - then they can have either a HUD integrated into
the system (via the Internal 3 sensors, the Internal 4th sensor, or an External
Sensor, ) - or they can have a connector to go directly
to their VR-3 (once again, via the 3 Internal sensors, or 4th Internal sensor).

This is
what it looks like with the Fischer Connectors and waterproof Cables attached.
The Lumberg (yellow) cable is for the Heads Up Display which mounts on your DSV.
About the
Cable... One of the biggest problems with any Electronically Controlled Closed
Circuit Rebreather is maintaining electrical continuity, and preventing water
intrusion into anything involving current. This has been an issue for every ECCR
ever built. The one rig that seems to have solved this issue did so many years
ago: the Mark 15/CCR-1000 rigs were equipped with cables and connectors made by
Bendix, and later by Amphenol Aerospace. These connectors are 10,000 psi OPEN
FACE capable, and the cable they were molded into was sealed on multiple levels.
Of course, each connector on a cable cost about a hundred bucks, then add the
cable cost and molding, and pretty soon you were looking at a $750 cable. Not
too practical outside of the military.
To confront
this issue, we contacted a specialty cable company which produces cable for deep
water use. We specified an 8 conductor cable that had to have a maximum diameter
of .300 of an inch (7.62 mm) and a Bend Radius of 1.5 inches or less (38 mm). It
also had to be waterproof.

What we wound
up with is a cable that is more than that - a cable which is Depth of Ocean
rated, and Helium Leak Proof. A cable which has a PVC jacket which is one of the
toughest we have ever seen, yet conforms to our Bend Radius and Maximum Diameter
requirements.

Each
conductor is coated with void-filling sealant, and each individual STRAND of
wire in each of the 8 conductors is also coated with void-filling sealant,
making this the most amazing cable we've ever worked with.

A solid PVC
core is surrounded by a high-twist archetecture of 8 conductor void filled
conductors, ensuring that there are virtually no spaces where water or gas can
intrude.
If water gets
through this stuff, it must be possessed...
Combine
that with the fact that the conductors are channel sealed inside the Head, and
then isolated from the control electronics via a Fischer Connector and
Receptacle, and you have yourself one of the most leak-proof systems ever made.
Period.

Here it is
all assembled, and installed into the Inspiration housing. This is now a DIRECT
REPLACEMENT for the existing Inspiration Head. To install this system, you
simply remove your existing Inspiration Head, complete with all internal and
external connections/batteries/electronics/etc, and put them in a closet
somewhere safe. You then attach this Replacement Head, hook up your
intake/exhaust and Oxygen hoses and DSV and go diving. It is really just that
simple. Nothing more to add, nothing to remove from your old Head (except for
the O2 Sensors if you want to use them in this new assembly). True "Plug and
Play."

A closer
view of all the connections and how well they all line up. The complete assembly
fits very well and tight into the body of the Rebreather.

But one of
the best things about this system is the Displays. Here are all three displays -
the Primary on the Left and the Secondary on the Right, as well as the
HUD (Mounted on the DSV at
the top). TRUE TRIPLE REDUNDANCY in one compact user-friendly unit. If your
Primary fails, you have your Secondary Display to tell you what your 3 ppO2
readings are, as well as the HUD to keep you informed of your ppO2 from either
all three sensors, or a 4th sensor (your choice). If your Secondary fails, you
have your HUD. If your HUD fails, well, then, you really need to book some time
with the vicker...

We use
identical assemblies for the Primary and Secondary, except they are mirror-image
of each other.
The
Displays also incorporate the "Varicon™" Convex Lens System, which actually
Magnifies the LCD Image for easier viewing. Both Displays come with built-in
BACKLIGHT as Standard.

Each of
the Wrist Units has an isolated waterproof Battery Housing which contains twin
3.6v Lithium batteries, which cost about $5 each. These are the same batteries
used in most computers for PRAM, and as such, are available just about
everywhere computers are sold. In our preliminary testing, we found that the
batteries in the Primary ran the system, with Solenoid firing, for about 80
HOURS, while the Secondary ran for about 168 HOURS. Clearly, a major improvement
over the original system.

The batteries
can be removed via a coin-slot cap located on top of the Wrist Unit. This should
make changing batteries on a rocking boat a snap.

You will also
notice that the top of the Wrist Units (Primary and Secondary) have Wet Switches
integrated into them - this means that should you forget to switch on either of
your displays, they will do so automatically when you hit the water.
Now for some REALLY Interesting Stuff...

Here you see
a side detail of the Primary Electronics Wrist Unit, which also houses the
Pressure Transducer (the silver port next to the Fischer Connector). Considering
the Primary Electronics also handles Trimix Decompression computing in both
Closed Circuit and Open Circuit modes, it makes for an interesting option
when...

...you
disconnect the cable leading to the Head, Cap the Fischer Bulkhead Connector,
and go diving Open Circuit with your Dive Computer still strapped to your
wrist...
You now have
not only a CCR Controller/Computer, but a perfectly viable OC Dive Computer (or
fixed ppO2 CCR Computer) to take with you should you choose to leave your
Inspiration® back on the boat!
Is this cool
or what?
The unit also
has a built-in Trimix Decompression Computer - we are using Buhlmann with
Gradient Factors, and are planning on implementing other deco algorithms in the
future in order to give users of the Hammerhead® a wide choice of decompression
profiles
"DIVA™
System"
Display
Integrated Vibration
Alarm™
(Patent
Pending)
To Be Included With EACH
Hammerhead!

ANNOUNCING
The
Juergensen Marine DIVA™
A Dynamic New
Alarm and Monitoring System for CCR's!
Here's what's new
about this system:

The DIVA™
is a Heads Up Display which mounts on your DSV using the supplied bracket. The
cable for the module is sealed via a Swagelok connector and runs back to your
Hammerhead HUD port.

At the top
of the DIVA is an o-ring sealed Tri-Colored Light Emitting Diode, which flashes
either Red, Green or Orange depending upon your system's condition, thereby
allowing you, the diver, to monitor the status of your system and Oxygen Partial
Pressure in a "hands-free" mode - meaning you don't have to constantly look at
your Wrist Unit's to monitor your ppO2.
This
system works essentially the same as our HUD unit described on our website
HERE.
But one of
the biggest problems faced by CCR Controllers and Dive Computers today is the
issue of Alarms. Most divers hate Alarms - they either beep too loud (and too
often), or they don't beep loud enough. Many times, when you hear a beep, it
happens to be your dive buddy, or someone else near the dive site even!
Well - we
decided to do something about that for CCR divers...

This is
the inside of the new DIVA™. You will notice there is a blue cylinder behind the
LED in the drawing above. This is a Sealed Vibrating Motor which, when
activated, spins an eccentric weight at approximately 7,000 rpm. When attached
to the Dive Surface Valve it not only transmits pulses of vibration to the
divers mouth (a very sensitive place!) but also sound (described as a "buzzing
bee" by our completely unwilling test subjects!) - you feel and hear your alarms
at the same time - no more mistaking someone elses alarm for your own!
This is as
"personal" as it gets!

In this image, we've cross-sectioned the DIVA™
so you can see the internal guts of the unit laid out. The entire package is
2.35 Inches long. The unit is completely sealed, and maintenance-free. The Body
is machined from 316 Stainless with thick walls, so it can take a beating and
still keep on ticking!
This is the Bracket which conveniently mounts
to the Inspiration DSV via the front screw:

You'll
notice the "slot" at the back of the DIVA™ Bracket - this is so that you can
adjust the height of the DIVA to suit your own personal preference!
Like
everything we build, we try to keep real divers in mind, and wherever possible
give them options to control and adjust their system to their own liking - and
we don't have to tell you that giving divers choices as to how their particular
machine works is a rather radical concept in dive computers and controllers!
To that
end, you will be able to adjust ALL your System Alarms/Notifications which
include:
1) LED's
located in BOTH Primary and Secondary Displays - On or Off - Divers choice
2) DIVA™
Alarms:
• Low/High
Set-Point out-of-range (On/Off)
• Fast Ascent
Warning (On/Off)
• Deco Stop
Violation Warning (On/Off)
•Hypoxic Mix
Alarm (On/Off)
3) Wrist
Unit Alarms: Backlights Flash on/off during Alarm Events which should also
notify nearby divers that your system needs attention (in low light conditions,
of course) - thereby alerting buddies that you may need assistance.
NOTE: Low
(less than .20) and High (greater than 1.8) ppO2 Alarms are NOT able to be
turned off by the diver.
Is this cool
or what?
Instructions from kevin
The unit, as you probably know, consists of the following items:
1) Hammerhead Assembly, which includes:
Head with 2 Cables
Oxygen Sensor Plate
Retaining Nut for O2 Sensor Plate
Intake Spindle
Retaining Nut for Intake Spindle
Oxygen Solenoid
Oxygen Mating Port
Banana Plug Block
Oxygen Sensor Wire Harness
Heads Up Display Connection
2) Primary Control Unit
3) Secondary Display Unit
4) DIVA, Heads Up Display Unit
Lets talk about the Head first:
The Head is very simply like a dog food bowl turned upside down - you will
notice that at the bottom of this bowl, there is some potting compound around
the outer edge - this is where the internal wiring is kept. This is pretty
much water proof, so you don't have to worry about immersing the head in
water, or rinsing it out - although we would recommend you do whatever you can
to keep salt water out of it - nothing good comes from letting salt water into
anything, as most of you know - if it doesn't work it's way into things to
corrode, it leaves a bad smell anyway, and if full of little buggers that can
turn moldy and make you sick. Remember, the air you breathe is moving around
inside this thing -treat it accordingly.
There are fittings on top of the head which are made by Swagelok. DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO MOVE OR TIGHTEN THESE. They are fitted just as they should be, and
are potted from the inside. If you try to move or adjust them in any way, you
will break the potting seal, and possibly damage the internal wires. So
resist your temptation to put a wrench on all things Scuba.
You will also notice on top of the Head that there is a Lumberg plug for the
Heads Up Display. This is a waterproof connector, but ONLY if you FULLY
tighten the connector located on the Yellow Cable. The seal on the Lumbergs
is made at the end of the tightening band, and as such, you need to make sure
you turn the retaining ring fully. We recommend you also fill this port with
some Silicone or other lube. You will not hurt the circuit by doing this, as
almost all lubricants used in scuba diving are dielectric (meaning, they do
not conduct electricity).
The ends of the two Black Cables have Fischer Connectors on them. They are
indexed Male and Female so you cannot connect them to the wrong Wrist Unit.
The Male Cable (with pins) goes to the Primary Control Unit, and the Female
Cable goes to the Secondary Display Unit.
For those of you who have no experience with Fischer Connectors, there is a
Red Dot located on both the Connector and Receptacle - line those two dots up,
and insert the connector fully until it clicks. To remove the connector,
simply grasp the metal outer sleeve of the connector, and gently pull out.
The connector will NOT come out if you just yank on the cable - it is designed
to stay put.
DO NOT turn the Receptacle for any reason - it is screwed into the Wrist Unit
and forms the seal which keeps water from intruding - if it becomes loose,
your unit will surely leak, and the internal electronics be destroyed. If for
some reason you find it has loosened, please contact us for instructions on
how to tighten it.
You can lube these connectors lightly if you like, but we would suggest some
spray electrical treatment/lubricant such as Caig ProGold, or other such
product you can buy at electronic stores, or over the Internet.
*
O2 Sensor Plate: We've numbered the O2 Sensor Plates on both sides to help
you determine where each sensor resides. Please adhere to the numbering
schemes at all times in treating your sensors.
Our recommendation regarding sensors: One important
thing to remember is that the sensors should be marked as to their position in
your rig, i.e. "#1, #2, and #3" you should also put the date of installation
on each sensor so that you can keep track of how old a particular sensor is,
and when it is likely to need changing.
It is important to keep the sensors numbered because
mixing of the sensors can throw the calibration of your Electronics and
Secondary Display way off.
I personally keep a small data tag in each sensor container where I
write the output voltage of each sensor (measured in air) upon storage, and
removal from the container. I have found that this gives me a good idea of
the "health" of each sensor, and helps me to determine when its gonna die.
Whatever method you decide upon, the one thing you
really want to do is keep track of the sensor readings as the one year life
progresses. And don't mix 'em up - Sensor 1 is always in Position 1, etc.
We have provided a method in the Primary Control Unit to
allow you to keep track of the health of each Sensor - that is the mV menu.
In the Primary Control Unit, you can access the Option (OPT) of "MV Display"
which will give you a readout of the millivoltage output of each Sensor. You
should check this and make a note of the response of each Sensor just after
you do your O2 Sensor Calibration.
*
Banana Plug Block: You will notice that there are 6 Banana Plugs in the
block - one Brown, one Red, one Orange, and three Black. Each Sensor wire in
the Harness is color-coded - Brown, Red, Orange, and three Blacks. The code
works like this:
Brown = Sensor 1
Red = Sensor 2
Orange = Sensor 3
There is one Black for each of the above, which is
Ground.
The first thing Tom Mount noticed in his set when he got
it this morning was that one sensor was dead - reading 0.0 as it's ppO2. I
suggested he had the wires reversed, and that was exactly the case. He
shouldn't feel bad, because I did it myself too!
We tried to make this as easy and intuitive as possible,
but it just goes to show that even the most simple thing can be screwed up -
so make sure you follow the code above exactly. The beauty of this system is
that once you've hooked these up, you shouldn't have to remove them again for
a very long time..
*
Oxygen Solenoid: The Solenoid is a Snap-Tite Watt Miser, which is rated at 6v
DC and 150 psi. We have overpressurized this solenoid to 450 psi for testing
and it still opened at 4.8 volts. Not bad.
The design of the Solenoid is such that the Gas Input
comes from behind the piston, which means that should you have an interstage
failure (i.e. the pressure shoots up), it just closes the Solenoid harder - so
it is most definitely a "fail-closed" model.
There is no maintenance you need to be concerned about
with the Solenoid. Just let it sit there and do it's job, and it will be
fine. You can change the rate and type of Solenoid firing in the Primary
Control Unit - which will be explained later in this document.
*
Intake Spindle: The Intake Spindle functions in a similar fashion as the one
on the Inspiration, except the Sensors do not attach to it's sides - it serves
as the retaining platform for the Oxygen Sensor Plate. The only reason it is
not molded as part of the Head itself was to leave us some options for later
updates and changes. There is an o-ring located on the inside top of the
Spindle, which you should change every year or so, and keep lubed on
occasion. We have indexed the Head to keep this spindle from rotating when
you are securing it with the Intake Spindle Retaining Nut, located on the
outside top of the Head.
*
Retaining Nuts: One thing you will notice about the Retaining Nuts (both
external for the Spindle, and Internal for the O2 Sensor Plate) is that while
we have provided "grips" for tightening, we have not provided something more
substantial, such as Hex flats that you could get a wrench on. This is
intentional, as you do not need to have these tightened to what I call "monkey
tight" - they only need to be hand tight to form a seal or to retain the
sensor plate.
You will notice that the holes in the rim of the Head are not round, but Oval
Slots - this is because early on, we found out that the Studs located on the
Inspiration Scrubber Housing are not square. We do not know the standard
deviation between different lots of scrubber housings, so we played it safe
and made our holes slotted rather than round. Hopefully, this will cover all
the different scrubber housings out there. Let us know if you have a specific
problem.
The Hammerhead fits on your Scrubber Housing the SAME way as the original
head, using the same o-rings and Spacer.
You will also notice that there is a Stainless Steel plug in the Head - that
is for the 4th Cell Cable, should you elect to use one. That allows you to
connect your VR-3 or other ppO2 Monitoring product directly to a 4th Cell
mounted on your O2 Sensor Plate.
If you ordered the VR-3 Connector from us, then you will simply remove that
plug, and install the new Swagelok fitting into that port. Save the plug in
case you ever need to remove that connector for service or any other reason.
Now lets talk about the Primary Control Unit:
There are a LOT of features in this thing, which we've talked about over
previous e-mails, but you're just going to have to explore the unit for
yourself to get a good feel as to how to use them all.
The challenge in making this unit was to provide a comprehensive suite of
controls and functions within the confines of a 2 x 16 LCD display (2 lines,
by 16 characters) - and a 2 push-button system. So there is a fair amount of
button pushing you need to do to customize your unit for your own diving, but
this also will serve to help you get acquainted with the system while you're
sitting on the couch thinking about diving once the damn snow melts... ; -)
Here are the basic functions of the unit:
a) Monitors ppO2 Output from 3 Sensors: It will display this output on the
Main Screen as a function of Partial Pressure of Oxygen (ppO2).
b) Controls Solenoid: The unit will open and close the Oxygen Solenoid based
upon input from the 3 Sensors, and a comparison to the User Selected Set
Point.
c) Voting Logic: The unit employs a Voting Logic algorithm to deduct the
input from a Sensor which falls outside certain proscribed limits. The
balance of sensors are then averaged to determine loop ppO2
d) Monitors Depth: The unit tracks your depth in Feet or Meters (User
Selectable). It reads up to 750 FSW (227 Meters) Deeper than that, you're on
your own...
e) Wet Switch: The unit will turn on automatically if immersed in either
fresh or salt water.
f) Decompression Calculation: The unit will compute your Decompression
requirements in either Open Circuit or Closed Circuit mode during diving.
g) Alarm Status: The unit will flash alarms (a Red LED located inside the
Wrist Unit, and the LCD Backlight) if the ppO2 is detected to be below .2 or
above 1.8.
In addition to the basic functions above, the unit allows the following:
h) User Definable Set Points: Allows the User to define 5 Set-Points.
i) User Definable Gasses: Allows the User to Name and Define up to 10 Gas
Mixes (Oxygen/Helium with Nitrogen extrapolated as the balance).
j) User Selectable Gasses: Allows the User to Select the Gasses defined
above "on-the-fly" during diving operations, and uses that selected Gas to
compute Decompression.
k) FO2/ppO2 Calculation: In the event you wish to verify your Sensors at
depth, or if you just wish to know for Semi-Closed Bailout purposes, you can
select "FO2" from the Options Menu, and the unit calculates the Partial
Pressure of Oxygen of your Diluent Mix (the Gas Mix you have selected) and
displays it on the screen.
For example: You have reason to suspect that all three of your sensors are
going bad (how that could happen, I have no idea) - so you wish to do a
Diluent Flush to verify the Sensors are reading correctly. You simply select
"FO2" from the Options Menu and the unit will display what your Diluent ppO2
should be at whatever depth you happen to be at. When you flush your loop
with Diluent, the two numbers should match - if they don't, then something is
wrong somewhere. Either you did not verify your Diluent Fraction of Oxygen
(FO2) after mixing on the surface, or your Sensors are out of whack. In
either case, you can use this function to try and sort out whatever problem,
or suspicion you may have.
l) Conservatism: You can select 11 levels of Conservatism. Zero (0) being
the lowest (straight Buhlmann) and eleven (11) being the highest, most
conservative. The Conservatism affects the Slope of the decompression curve
for each compartment based upon Gradient Factors.
Why are there 11 levels and not just 10? This is my tribute to Will Smithers
- a fan of "Spinal Tap"...
m) Backlight Timer: Allows the diver to select how long the Backlight will
remain on when you push either button. This is handy in case you're the type
that likes to gaze for a while at your Wrist Unit, or if you need it to
illuminate something underwater. Remember, the Backlight is one of the big
consumers of electricity - so the longer you use your Backlight, the faster
your batteries will drain. We recommend 5 Seconds as about right.
n) Imperial-Metric: Yes, you can switch between both. We happen to feel
that everyone should be using Feet, Inches, Pounds and Ounces, but hey, we're
just some backwoods little country... ; -)
o) Solenoid Firing: There are three modes you can select, depending upon
your own preference:
*
Juergensen Mod: This modestly named feature works like this: The rate of
Solenoid Fire is determined dynamically by the software based upon a slope.
If your actual ppO2 is very far away from your selected Set-Point (i.e. your
ppO2 is .3 and your selected Set-Point is 1.4) then the software will fire the
Solenoid one second out of every 3.5 seconds or so. The closer your actual
ppO2 gets to the selected Set-Point, the less often it will fire. The actual
firing duration DOES NOT change - it remains 1 second. The maximum duration
between firings is 15 seconds.
*
Standard: This is "standard" in the Mark 15 sense - meaning that the Solenoid
will fire one second out of every 5 seconds until your selected Set-Point is
achieved.
*
Manual (OFF!): This means that YOU ARE GOING TO ADD OXYGEN MANUALLY - the
Solenoid WILL NOT fire to maintain your loop ppO2. You would use this if you
felt like maintaining your Oxygen partial pressure yourself (once again,
outside training, I can't understand why anyone would want to do this).
Nonetheless, there is a safeguard in the system that will OVERRIDE this
setting if your ppO2 falls below .2. The Solenoid will start firing in that
event, no matter what you have the unit set at.
p) Auto-Shutdown Rate: After you emerge from the water, the unit will
eventually go to sleep. It really never shuts off, since it is constantly
working in the background checking to see if the Wet Switch has been
activated, or calculating your Residual Inert Gas for repetitive dives. But
you can set how long you want it to remain awake after you emerge from your
dive. Obviously, the quicker it goes to sleep, the longer your batteries will
last, so unless you really want to have it display the max depth of your last
dive, we recommend it goes to sleep sooner rather than later.
q) Diagnostics: We have left this area accessible to you only so that if
anything goes wrong out there we can ask you to give us some numbers to help
us gauge what is happening. There is nothing in this menu for your to alter
or play with - so please resist temptation to tweak or push any buttons in
this area. In later versions of the software, this feature will be disabled.
DECOMPRESSION:
When you enter the water, and the unit detects input from the Wet Sensors, it
goes into the "Dive" mode, whereupon it begins to give you not only the
readout from the 3 sensors, but a display of your Selected Gas Mix, and the
O2/He composition of it (i.e. "Air 21%" or "Trimix
15/50").
It will also display "NO STOP" when you have no decompression requirement.
It DOES NOT tell you your NO STOP time - this is not an error - we did not put
this feature in because after reviewing the material out there, we realized
that the calculation used is generally based upon ONLY the Nitrogen component
of the mix, and hence is generally inaccurate. We've had some suggestions as
to how to go about getting an accurate number using both Helium and Nitrogen,
but most methods involve a very large amount of processor time - we do intend
to integrate a NO STOP time calculation into the system, but at a later date
when we have found a good solution for multiple gas calculations.
That said, once you DO go into a Decompression Obligation scenario, the unit
will display your Ceiling and time required at that Ceiling as such:
2 @ 10
The 2 being two minutes, the 10 being 10 feet (or 3 Meters, whatever you have
the unit set to).
It will also display to the far right of that number the Total Decompression
Time required in minutes.
This Ceiling and TTS (Time to Surface) are updated constantly by the system,
and will change based upon your Depth, Gas Mix, and current Partial Pressure
of Oxygen. It is also affected by whether you are in Closed Circuit or Open
Circuit mode.
We used Buhlmann ZH-16 with Gradient Factors as our Decompression Model.
WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU USE A CONSERVATISM SETTING OF 4 OR ABOVE UNTIL
YOU GET ACQUAINTED WITH THE UNIT, AND THAT YOU CARRY BACKUP TABLES OR A BACKUP
COMPUTER YOU TRUST UNTIL YOU FIND THE RIGHT LEVEL OF CONSERVATISM FOR YOU AND
YOUR STYLE OF DIVING.
On to the Secondary Display Unit:
The Secondary Display Unit serves two functions:
1) It displays the output of the 3 Oxygen Sensors as expressed in ppO2.
2) It controls the DIVA Heads Up Display Unit.
The Secondary Display Unit is basically a separate means for you to monitor
the Partial Pressure of Oxygen in your Loop. Should the Primary Control Unit
fail, the Secondary Display Unit can be used to check your ppO2.
Please note: UNLIKE THE INSPIRATION ELECTRONICS, THE SECONDARY DOES NOT
CONTROL THE SOLENOID.
The Hammerhead is based on the philosophy of the Mark 15/16 type diving, where
the Primary controls the operation of the rebreather in "automatic" mode, and
the Secondary is there for the diver to use as a verification of the Primary,
but also as a display to be used during Manual operation.
The Secondary has the ancillary function of controlling the DIVA Heads Up
Display which you can use to make your monitoring of system ppO2 much easier
Here's how the Secondary works:
a) You first tell the Secondary which Set-Point you will be using - this is
necessary since the Secondary and Primary Control Unit do not communicate,
thus do not share a common failure point (that's a good thing, in case you
were wondering).
b) The Secondary will then display one of three System Status Messages in the
Upper Left corner:
<OK> Everything is good - all three sensors are in agreement with your
Set-Point
<WARN> Either 1 Sensor has been Voted Out, or the Sensor Readings are
15% outside your selected Set-Point
<PO2! ERROR!> Your ppO2 is 25% outside your selected Set-Point or your ppO2
has dropped below .2 or has risen above 1.8.
c) The Secondary displays the three Sensor readings in ppO2, as well as the
selected Set Point and the Average of the three Sensors.
d) The Secondary also has a board mounted LED which will flash through the
Lexan housing of the Wrist Unit so you can observe your system status without
the Heads Up Display.
e) The DIVA is controlled by the Secondary and operates like this:
Green Flash every 8 seconds = System O.K.
Orange Flash every 5 Seconds = ppO2 15% out of range (+ or -)
Red Flash every 2 Seconds = ppO2 25% out of range (+ or -)
In addition, there is a built-in Vibrator which will begin to pulse in the
event of a Red Flash (Alarm) event. This is to get your attention (should all
else fail).
Not only that, but the Backlight of the Secondary will flash on and off in the
event of any Alarm condition. You should take the precaution of informing ALL
of your dive buddies that should they ever notice your Backlight Flashing,
that they should immediately come to your aid.
Secondary Display Options Menu:
1) Define Set Point: As in the Primary Control Unit, this allows you to
define up to 5 Set-Points which you can later select from the Main Screen as
your current Set-Point. You should make sure that you define these Set-Points
IDENTICAL to the Primary Control Unit.
2) Backlight Timer: As in the Primary Control Unit, allows you to set the
duration the Backlight is on when you depress either button.
3) Auto Shutdown Rate: Again, you tell the unit how long to stay awake after
your dive is over. Lower is better and means your battery will last longer.
4) Calibrate O2: You will need to Calibrate your Oxygen Sensors on the
Secondary at the SAME TIME you calibrate your Primary Control Unit.
5) MV Display: This feature works the same as on the PCU - you can use
either unit to view the mV output of your Oxygen Sensors.
6) Diagnostics: Once again, a feature for us to use, not for the end-user.
7) Set Display Mode: This is a feature that is not yet implemented, even
though it is in the Menu (oops.) In the next iteration of software, you will
be able to select the flashing LED code for the HUD to tell you what your ppO2
for each cell is. For now, please leave this feature set to "User Setpoint".
There is so much more that these things do, and my brain is tired right now,
so as stuff comes up I will send out more notices to let you all know about
them.
I suggest you print this out and save it for future reference. I will
endeavor to make a hard copy Manual of all this so you can have it handy. But
the electronics are quite intuitive (at least *I* think so), and they seem to
work really well in all of our testing.
And now for our "Special Thanks" section.
We are very grateful to all of you who were the first to jump on the bandwagon
of this product and help us make it a reality. I truly appreciate the trust
you have shown in me and our new product. It has not been easy, and I am sure
there is still more work to do, but it is our commitment to keep working on
this product to make it everything you need it to be.
But additional thanks goes out to:
Tom Mount, who started this whole thing off when he asked me and Will
if we could put our 3rd Gens in his Inspiration, and then proceeded to dive
the hacked together prototype like the true Crash Test Dummy he is. ; -)
Alex Varouxis, of Associated Design who helped me build the Prototype
that didn't manage to kill Tom.
Scott Koplin, of Koplin Fabrication for the outstanding design work on
the Wrist Units and Head - this guy is a genius.
Mike Dyson, for calling me every day and telling me that these things
will sell like hotcakes - I sure hope so...
Dave Thompson, for verifying some of our work and giving us pointers
along the way.
Bob Howell, for having some very cool ideas of his own, and for egging
us on.
Christina Young, for giving our programmers a lecture on Deco after
Will Smithers died and we were left without our Resident Genius.
Rich Pyle, for yelling at us "Don't ever call me again, losers!!!" when
we called to ask a couple deep-stop questions. ; -)
Phi Le, for giving my software guy, Jim, the best explanation yet of a
deco software outline, then helping us verify the program against his awesome
Decoweenie.
Will Smithers, my dear departed friend who contributed so much to the
dive world, and was a fantastic pal and brilliant engineer. Not a day goes by
that I don't think of him...
And numerous others who gave advice, asked for or not, about how we should or
should not be doing things. If the Road to Hell is truly Paved with Good
Intentions, then I'm sure I'll be seeing lots of you one day soon... ; -)
As you get your units, please take the time to go through them, check
everything out, play with the different User Definable Settings, and feel free
to ask questions. Don't take them apart, don't let your dog eat them, etc...
I would eventually like to set up a "Hammerhead" list a la the Rebreather or
Inspiration list - Gordon Henderson once kindly offered to set that up, so
maybe we can get that going soon.
In the interim, however, it seems lately like all of you know my phone number,
and some of you even know where I live. I ain't going anywhere - so call,
write, or stop by if you have any specific questions you need answered.
And please make sure to give me your "wish-list" for the next go-round on the
Hardware/Software. If we hope to make any money on this endeavour at all, I'm
going to have to make/sell some more, and would rather have all that data in
advance of my next meeting with the hardware/software guys.
As for me, I've got to get back to work putting these things in boxes for you
all...
Take care,
Kevin Juergensen
Juergensen Marine
Page last modified
17/06/2003