Except for Saint-Paul and Amsterdam (which were located on the route of the mailships sailing at the turn of the century), the isolation and difficulty of access meant that the islands of the TAAF were for a long time abandoned to sealing and whalers. In order to counter any possibility of foreign occupation, the French Government decided to attach them to the General Government of Madagascar, by decree of November 21, 1924 which made of it a district of the Province of Tamatave. However, it was noted that France had still not established any permanent occupation of the islands.
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| The spectacular caldera on St-Paul Island |
In 1928, Rene Bossière, with several other Bretons, was recruited by the Compagnie Générale des Îles Kerguelen to attempt to exploit the teeming lobster population of St Paul Island. A lobster canning facility was built, but the venture was a failure, and, abandoned on the island until 1931, many of them succumbed to scurvey and died. Only three returned to France from the island, disillusioned and resentful.
The Second World War highlighted the strategic importance of the isolated subantarctic islands in the Southern Indian Ocean and the need to include them in a world-wide network of weather stations. During the war the UK proposed the establishment of a weather station on Amsterdam, but this did not come to fruition. However, acting on the recommendations of the Conferences of Salisbury and Washington in 1947, and of London in 1949, France committed itself to establishing permanent bases in the area.
On December 31, 1949, the lobster boat Sapmer, under Captain Vendavaine, landed on Amsterdam the first mission to establish a permanent scientific base, directed by Paul Martin de Viviès. The sailing ship Cancalais reaffirmed French sovereignty on the islands and studied the possibility of a permanent scientific base. The relief of this first mission was carried out on January 26, 1951 by the Italo Marsano, sailing from Kerguelen and establishing a routine which has continued yearly.
The Territory of Terres Australes et Antarctiques Françaises was promulgated by law No 55-1052 on August 06, 1955 to reaffirm French sovereignty in the remote areas of the Southern Indian Ocean. These islands had previously been more or less forgotten by France, but interest was to be rekindled by the development of the observations undertaken within the framework of the International Geophysical Year.
Fauna
Fur Seals and Elephant Seals abound on Amsterdam: both species were approaching extinction at the beginning of the century but have since profited by the protection of the man. They are now re-established all over the island.
Native to the islands is the Amsterdam Island Albatross, found nowhere else in the world.
To see a wonderful series of wildlife photos from Amsterdam, visit this Exhibition of photos - "Ile d'Amsterdam : Terres Australes"
Laboratories
The laboratories on the island are:
- The National Weather Station - attempts to give reliable weather forecasts
- Laboratory of Physiochemistry of the Atmosphere - (RACEA), which carries out measurements of the air on samples free from the pollution of civilisation
- The GeoPhysical Laboratory - measures the earth's magnetic field
They are manned by volunteers, often instead of Military Service.
