Aconcagua Dossier 2001-02

For dates and prices please return to the Aconcagua front page

High on the Polish glacier

For those with a bit more experience we are offering an alternative summit day via the more difficult and quieter Polish Glacier route. The route is challenging but not normally technically demanding, though as with all glacier routes conditions vary from year to year. We will descend the normal route after ascending by the Polish Glacier. The route was first climbed in 1934 by a Polish expedition. Please note that we need a minimum of four customers to be able to offer a choice of summit days. We have a high success rate on the Polish route.

Aconcagua from the Casa de Piedra campsite to the east

We always have time to see some of the city of Mendoza during the course of the expedition and depending on flight schedules we may have part of a day in Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is the capital of Argentina and one of the largest cities in South America. In the centre and on the waterfront of the River Plate there are pleasant parks and restaurants. There is also the usual mixture of art galleries, museums and presidential palaces. We can arrange a one or two night extension in Buenos Aires for any clients who want to be sure to see the city

Mendoza is a major provincial city in the west of Argentina with over a million inhabitants. It is situated in a very dry region in the rain shadow of the Andes and is the centre of Argentina's wine industry. It is one of Argentina's most beautiful and prosperous cities, with many tree lined avenues, beautiful tiled plazas and a good choice of steak restaurants and pavement cafes. Time spent in Mendoza is always a highlight of the expedition, perhaps because the temperature can reach 35ºC in January!

The climate at altitude in the Andes is cold, windy and extremely dry. High on the mountain temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be cold and windy. Temperatures in the Vacas and Relinchos valley are usually a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day, but cool at night. It will be very hot in Mendoza (up to 35ºC) so don't forget to pack a T-shirt. It should be dry most of the time we are there, though there is a chance of a snow storm in the mountains.

The summit of Aconcagua, 2000 'Andes' expedition

What we are offering is quite different from the package ascents of the normal route offered by most other companies. We use an independent approach route avoiding the heavily used Horcones valley. Only on the last part of the last day do we join the busier 'normal' route.

Our ascent will be 'Alpine' in style. We will get some acclimatisation with our short trip to the Cordon del Plata, then climb Aconcagua making steady daily progress upwards with minimal load carrying. Many people are still using siege tactics on Aconcagua, which involves a lot of time sitting at an unpleasant base camp, then repeated ascending and descending on the same route to establish high camps. From what we've seen it often involves carrying a lot of heavy equipment both up and down the mountain! We have made successful ascents of Aconcagua every year using a program of acclimatisation ascents followed by an 'Alpine' style summit bid. In the last two years our Aconcagua trips have had impressive summit success rates, by both the normal and Polish routes, better than many other teams on the mountain at the same time.

Our party will be small, with a maximum of six clients plus British leader and local assistant. We use mules to help us transport extra food and climbing gear to base camp (and rubbish back out) but otherwise we will be a small group on the mountain. This lightweight approach has less impact on sensitive mountain areas.

We have a better client to guide ratio than any of our competitors, with no more than three clients per guide on Aconcagua summit days. This improves your chances of making it to the summit.

The summit of Aconcagua, 1996 'Andes' expedition

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Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as running, circuit training, squash or cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months before the expedition. If you don’t do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the top - Aconcagua is the most physically demanding expedition that we run.

Though longer than the busy 'normal' route, the eastern route on Aconcagua is on the whole an easy ascent route with few difficulties, suitable for those with some winter and/or Alpine walking experience. For the Polish Glacier option some previous winter or Alpine climbing experience is recommended.

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such a big mountain. Customers should be prepared for cold nights whilst camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times in the mountains. Customers must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment on their back above base camp. Weights carried will be about 20-25kg. As we'll be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will have to put up with tinned and/or dehydrated food in our diet during our time on the mountain. All customers are expected to assist occasionally with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up.

Hard work at 6600m climbing up the canaleta on summit day

Flights from London to Mendoza via Buenos Aires the Argentine capital cost from about £650-£700 We normally arrange these for customers through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly on the same plane. If you prefer you are welcome to arrange flights yourself.

Visas are not necessary for US and British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. Other nationalities may need visas - please check with your local Argentine embassy.

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Argentina is one of the more developed countries in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You'd be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are almost certainly less likely than they are in any British city. Everyone who visits Argentina is overwhelmed by how much like a part of Europe the country is.

While we are staying in Mendoza accommodation will be in a clean and secure hotel with private bathroom. We normally use a small centrally located hotel with a friendly atmosphere, rather than a big luxury hotel. When out in the mountains we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest.

EXPEDITION ORGANISATION

Our expeditions fall somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and led by us, but we'll consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

EXPEDITION LEADERS

At the time of writing expedition leaders have not been finalised for the 2001-02 season - please contact us nearer the time for details.

Normally the minimum number of customers we need to run each of these Aconcagua expeditions is three. The maximum size of each expedition will be six customers plus leader and assistant.In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

We will be running a social day for these expeditions when expedition members will be able to meet both their leader and other members. These are usually held in the English Lake District in October or November. We make no charge for these social days but you have to cover your own costs. Please ask for details if you are interested in this option.

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Aconcagua is a popular choice as a first 6000m peak. However most of our other expeditions (particularly those to Peru and Bolivia) are more suitable if you have not climbed in the Andes or Himalayas before. Though the ascent is just a ‘walk’ for experienced mountaineers every year we see less experienced people struggle with the combination of difficult terrain and extreme altitude. Aconcagua is physically and psychologically the toughest expedition we run because of frequent bad weather and the extended period of wilderness camping.

Before booking on Aconcagua you should have experience of at least three of the following:-

w Previous ascent to over 6000m

w Recent experience of extended wilderness camping and/or camping in winter conditions

w Recent backpacking experience

w Ability to walk on scree and loose ground

If you have none of these previous experiences you should not book any Aconcagua trip - our expeditions are no more demanding than any others, Aconcagua is just a very tough mountain.

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