Alpamayo Dossier 2002

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The southwest face of Alpamayo

This expedition will climb one of the most appealing and technical peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Alpamayo 5947m is in the north of the range. We'll climb by the beautifully sculpted SSW face on ice to 50º or 60º. It is a difficult peak suitable only for those with experience of winter climbing to grade III, or Alpine climbing to AD.

Before going to Alpamayo we will make a short trip to the mountains in order to achieve a good level of acclimatisation for our trip to Alpamayo. During this acclimatisation phase we’ll plan to climb one or two lower peaks of around 5000-5500m, then a major objective. The choice of peak for this first major objective will depend on current local climbing conditions but is likely to be a 6000m peak such as Tocllaraju 6034m, Chopicalqui 6345m or Copa 6188m.

The expedition will be based in the pleasant wee town of Huaraz situated at a height of 3000m at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca. We will return to our hotel here to rest, eat well and experience the local culture between trips to the mountains

Huaraz is a friendly wee town of 100,000 people situated in the broad valley of the Callejon de Huaylas at an altitude of 3000m. It makes an excellent base for the expedition as it is high enough for a good start to be made on our acclimatisation without having to leave civilisation behind. The town is a spectacular eight hour drive from Lima. There are good hotels and restaurants where you can buy pizza, chicken or steak and chips and the local speciality, guinea pig. There are plenty of bars for those who want to try a bit of Peruvian beer!

The Cordillera Blanca are a range of mountains containing 22 peaks over 6000m. They lie in the northern part of Peru, just south of the equator and 400km north of the capital Lima. They are separated from the Pacific Ocean by the snowless Cordillera Negra which rise to 'only' 5000m. Between the two ranges is a broad valley known as the Callejon de Huaylas containing Huaraz and several other large towns. Like most of the Andean ranges the Cordillera Blanca are relatively young mountains, being only seven million years old. The north peak of Huascaran was the first major peak to be climbed in the Cordillera Blanca. It was climbed in 1908 by Annie Peck and local guides. The south peak of Huascaran was climbed in 1932 by a German expedition which also climbed Chopicalqui, Copa, Artesonraju and Huandoy. The Germans returned in 1939 to climb most of the remaining 6000m peaks, though the last and most difficult, Chacraraju, was not climbed until 1956. The 1950's saw a great deal of activity in the range with many peaks climbed by new routes and all the major summits, including Alpamayo, being reached.

Peaks of the Cordillera Blanca seen from Huaraz

Pictured right, Alpamayo 5947m, is known as the world's most beautiful mountains. Rather strangely its name when translated from the local Quechua language means 'Muddy River'. It is a superb but challenging peak, a fluted pyramid of snow and ice decorated with beautiful formations. It was first climbed by a German expedition in 1957 though earlier expeditions had reached lower summits. We'll climb by the Southwest face on a route known as the Ferrari route. This is about six pitches of steep ice above the bergschrund, approached from a high camp at 5300m. The descent is by abseil down the same line.

In recent years the hardest part of the climb has in fact been reaching the high camp at 5300m through a steep and chaotic icefall.

We have a good success record on Alpamayo, getting ten out of twelve clients to the top on our last three expeditions.

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This time of year is the dry season in the Peruvian Andes and there are long periods of stable weather with fewer and less severe storms than the Alps have in a normal summer. There are sometimes high winds and light snow flurries. Temperatures at altitude are extremely cold, going down to -20°C during the 12 hours of darkness each night, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!

Steep climbing on summit day. The high camp can be seen up and slightly left of the climbers head.

Ascents to 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting, circuit training, squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months. If you don’t do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the summit.

For Alpamayo clients should be experienced winter climbers, comfortable on at least Scottish grade III and preferably having led routes up to Grade II. Similar Alpine experience (several snow and ice climbs to AD grade) is equally acceptable.

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to put up with in return for the great rewards of success on such a difficult peak. Cold nights, early starts and dehydrated food are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed. We make use of mules or donkeys where possible but clients will have to carry a heavy expedition sack (20-25kg) above base camp on Alpamayo.

Descending from the summit of Alpamayo, 2000 Andes expedition

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Flights from London to Lima the Peruvian capital cost about £600. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), who have very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as it means we are all on the same flight out to South America. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary.

The summit of Alpamayo on a perfect day

Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. You must let us know at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport as you may need a visa.

Peru is one of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you may get an upset stomach at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice, seafood and all food sold by street vendors. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Your doctor may also recommend rabies and diphtheria injections. Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas

Peru suffers from a bad reputation for theft and insurance is a necessity. It has to be said that thieves steal from easy targets; most tales of theft involve the victim doing something unwise. It is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully at all times. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. We will issue further advice to all clients before departure.

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All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well.

ACCOMMODATION

While we're in Huaraz we use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage and clean clothes here whenever we go off to the mountains. We will be camping when we are out in the mountains; modern lightweight tents and stoves are provided by us, but you'll need your own four season sleeping bag and mat.

Camp in the valley on the way to Alpamayo

At the time of printing we have not finalised leaders for this expedition. Please phone for latest information. We use a one to two guide ratio on Alpamayo.

All of our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced British leader.

Another shot of the SW face of Alpamayo

The minimum number of customers we need to run the expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus lead and assistant guides.

In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve you when planning the details of the expedition.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

We will be running a social and training weekend for this expedition, probably in the Cairngorms in early 2002. Expedition members are normally able to meet both their leader and other members. We make only a small charge for these weekend. Please ask for details if you are interested.

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