Volcanoes of Colombia and Ecuador  Dossier 2001-02

For dates and prices please return to the Volcanoes of Colombia and Ecuador front page

This new expedition will combine ascents of a couple of easy Colombian volcanoes with ascents of some of Ecuador’s most famous peaks. Three peaks in Ecuador's famous 'Avenue of the Volcanoes' - Cayambe 5790m and the better known peaks of Cotopaxi 5897m and Chimborazo 6310m will be the main objectives of this expedition.

We start the trip in the Los Nevados range of Colombia where we will make ascents of Santa Isabel 4900m and El Ruiz 5226m. This phase of the expedition will be based in Bogota, the capital of Colombia and Manizales, a provincial city in Colombia’s main coffee growing area. Both ascents are very straighforward.

The second phase of the expedition will be based in Quito, the capital of Ecuador which sits in a mountain valley at an altitude of 2800m with views to Cotopaxi. In this interesting city there are many narrow colonial streets and lively markets to explore between our trips to the mountains. From Quito we will make short excursions to the mountains to climb Cotopaxi with its spectacular summit crater, Chimborazo the highest peak in Ecuador, and Cayambe, the highest peak on the equator. These are the three highest peaks in Ecuador and are relatively straightforward climbs up to about Alpine PD in standard.

Expedition members should be experienced winter or alpine walkers with previous experience of using drampons, or exceptionally experienced summer walkers prepared to gain some alpine or winter experience before this expedition.

The expedition will fly out to the city of Bogota, the capital of Colombia, at an altitude of 2680m. We’ll spend the first two nights here to acclimatise. Bogota is a very pleasant and attractive city despite its size of over 5 million people.

Our first trip to the mountains will be to the Los Nevados range west of Bogota. We will fly to the city of Manizales and then use hired transport to take us into the mountains. Los Nevados are Colombia’s most accessible mountain range and we will spend four days here after our acclimatisation in the capital Bogota. In that time we will do a few walks and then make ascents of Santa Isabel and Nevado El Ruiz 5226m. The latter is an active volcano which erupted to devastating effect in 1987. Both peaks are very easy ascents and an ideal introduction to high altitude mountaineering

Quito is one of the most pleasant cities in South America; it is relatively small, has a warm climate, some superb architecture and views to several high peaks. At 2900m the city also makes a good base for a mountaineering expedition. The city was founded by the Incas in the sixteenth century as the northern capital of their empire. Today it is the capital of the Republic of Ecuador. It is a long thin city divided between the southern old town with cobbled streets and Spanish colonial architecture and the new town in the north with glass fronted skyscrapers and well kept parks. There are many churches, cafes and markets to visit during our days in the city between trips to the peaks.

Plaza San Francisco market, Quito

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The second phase of the expedition will be based in Quito and there will be time to explore the city and surrounding area on rest days. Because they are optional the cost of any sightseeing tours taken from Quito are not included in our price but your leader will be happy to help organise any you are interested in. Possibilities include trips to the impressive Pululagua crater with it's turquoise lake and also to the Otavalo market which is a good place to buy all sorts of handicrafts and soak up the colourful local atmosphere. A trip can also be made to the monument which stands on the equator a few kilometres north of Quito.

Cayambe, (pictured on the cover of this dossier) is the third highest peak in Ecuador and the highest mountain in the world on the equator. It was first climbed in 1880 by Whymper and the Carrels. We will climb by the normal route on the SW slopes over snow and ice. Though usually the hardest of our three big peaks Cayambe is not a very difficult climb. As with all the big summits in Ecuador there are some large crevasses to cross.

Climbing on Cayambe

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Clients should be experienced winter or Alpine walkers and be able to use an ice-axe and crampons competently. Some experience of easy winter climbing (grade I or II) would be an advantage but is not essential.

Ascents to 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking and mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as running, circuit training, squash or cycling. This should be done in small doses over a period of at least three months (e.g. half an hour every other day).

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success on such a big mountain. Cold nights, early starts and some tinned food are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed! Clients will have to carry an expedition weight (20kg) rucksack only very occasionally and for very short distances (1-2 hours).

Midnight feast at 5800m on the way up Chimborazo

The weather in Colombia and Ecuador, like that in Scotland, is famous for being unpredictable. Periods of good weather alternate with periods of bad weather every few days, so it is likely that at least some of the ascents may involve waiting for a day of suitable weather. We will be climbing in the area during one of two short dry seasons, but it is not as well defined a dry season as other parts of the Andes further south enjoy. However the sun does come out fairly frequently and when it does it is almost overhead and very strong. At altitude there are often cold winds and temperatures are normally low, going down to -5ºC during the 12 hours of darkness each night, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!

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FLIGHTS

Flights from London to fit in with this expedition will cost about £600-£650. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America, (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we are then all booked to fly out on the same plane. If you prefer you are welcome to arrange your own flights.

Visas are not necessary for British citizens for either Colombia or Ecuador, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. Please tell us at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport.

All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask.

While staying in Quito, Bogota and Manizales we will use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers, private bathroom and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage in these hotels while we are in the mountains. There are huts on most of the mountains but these can be busy and in a poor state of repair so we may occasionally choose to camp. We supply modern lightweight tents and stoves but you'll need your own sleeping bag, even for the huts.

Ecuador and Colombia are two of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you may get an upset stomach at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice and all seafood. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas.

Ecuador is a relatively safe country to visit but it is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. Colombia has more of a reputation as a security risk but Bogota and the area around Los Nevados were considered reasonably safe at the time of writing. If this situation changes we might have to substitute an alternative destination.

We issue further advice on security to all clients before departure.

It should be stressed that we have run countless expeditions to South America over ten years and we can quite confidently say that people are more likely to lose something than have it stolen!

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Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult expedition members when planning the details of the trip. We publish an outline itinerary so that we have a framework on which to build the expedition.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

The minimum we need to run this expedition is three customers. The maximum size of this expedition will be six customers plus leader.

In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

At the time of printing we have not finalised the leader for this expedition. Please phone if you require further details.

All our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced British leader.

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