First Ascents in Argentina Dossier 2001-02
For dates and prices please return to the First Ascents front page
| Summary
This is an excellent choice of expedition for very fit people who want to climb some extremely high mountains in a remote setting without any technical difficulty.
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| Outline Itinerary | |
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Day 1-2 Day 3 Day 4-7 Day 8-19 Day 20-21 Day 22-23 |
Flight
via Buenos Aires to Catamarca
In Catamarca Acclimatisation and travel to base camp Ascents in the Puna de Atacama Travel back to Catamarca Return home |
INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION
There will be a chance to make several first British ascents during this expedition and possibly also several first ever ascents of 5000m+ peaks. There will also be a chance to climb a reasonably easy peak of over 6000m towards the end of the expedition. Due to the nature of the expedition we can’t give specific details of the peaks we intend to climb until we receive a deposit and booking form. On receipt of these we will send out further specific details and a more detailed map of the peaks on the itinerary.
The climbing on all the peaks is over easy scree and some snow. Experience of technical climbing is not necessary but previous experience at altitude and on remote wilderness expeditions will be an advantage.
The peaks are all in an area we know well. We have run highly successful expeditions to this area in 1996 and 2000 during which we made first British ascents of Pissis 6885m, Bonete 6759m and Cazadero 6658m, three of the ten highest peaks in the Andes. We also made probably the first ever ascent of 6070m high peak lying NE of Veladero in November 2000. Our 2000 expedition summitted on four 6000m peaks.
Our year 2001 expedition will again be based on the Argentine side of the mountains in the province of Catamarca, but visiting different peaks of course! While at the time of publication we are sure that these mountains targetted have not been previously climbed by a British party we obviously cannot guarantee 100% that when we come to climb these peaks they will still not have had British ascents!
Cactus, Puna de Atacama
PUNA DE ATACAMA
The plateau of the Puna de Atacama lies on the border between Chile and Argentina and includes a huge area over 4000m above sea level. There are still many unclimbed peaks of over 5000m in this remote area, although due to poor information it can be difficult to find out about previous ascents by local climbers. Also many of the peaks in the area were climbed at the time of the Inca empire, when the mountains were worshipped as gods by the inhabitants and were frequently ascended in order to make sacrifices.
The Puna is one of the most beautiful and haunting places in the Andes, compared by many to the high plateau of Tibet. The scenery is a bit desolate for some, but the huge open spaces, clear air and big blue skies leave a deep impression on everyone who visits this area.
The Puna is still a remote place, although the area is now opening up due to the improving relations between Chile and Argentina and new mineral exploration in the area. However the landscape is a long way from being spoiled yet and the wild scenery of this remote place will make this a memorable expedition.
WILDLIFE
Despite the fact that at first sight there is almost nothing to eat in the high barren plateau of the Puna de Atacama the area is very good for seeing some of South Americas unusual wildlife, particularly on the long jeep drives into and out of the mountains. Vicuña and guanaco are wild relatives of the llama and are seen frequently. The rhea, a species of South American ostrich is also common in the foothills. On the lagoons there are flamingos and other species of birds. With a bit of luck we'll maybe even see a condor circling the peaks.
BU
ENOS AIRESDepending on flight schedules we may have time to see some of Buenos Aires during the course of the expedition. We can easily arrange a one or two day extension for any customers who want to be sure to spend time in the city. Buenos Aires is the capital of Argentina and the third largest city in South America. There are plenty of shops in the centre and some nice pedestrian areas, lined with cafes and restaurants, which come alive at night. There is also the usual assortment of art galleries and museums.
CATAMARCA
San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca is a small provincial capital at the foot of the Andes 500m above sea level. It is the nearest access city for the Argentine Puna. We'll fly here from Buenos Aires and then spend a day in town to purchase supplies before travelling on to the remote villages of the Puna. Catamarca is a rather neglected town over 1000km from Buenos Aires, but nevertheless it is a nice enough place with a pleasant central plaza and several good steak restaurants.
Top of PageFITNESS AND EXPERIENCE NEEDED
Though there is no difficult climbing involved in the ascents planned on this expedition, climbing to such heights is still a serious matter because of the lack of oxygen at high altitude. We will allow plenty of time for expedition members to acclimatise to the altitude but because of the nature of the expedition we recommend clients to have previous experience at altitudes of 5000m+.
For this expedition good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting (not jogging), squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least two months
Once out in the mountains we will be unsupported and therefore will have to carry expedition weight (20kg) rucksacks to establish high camps on the mountains, so some recent experience of backpacking is essential.
Flamingoes, Puna de Atacama
HARDSHIPS
On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such big mountains. Customers should be prepared for cold nights camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times out in the mountains. Customers must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment above base camp. As we'll be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will all have to put up with tinned and dehydrated food in our diet during our time in the desert. All customers are expected to help with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up
CLIMATE
The climate at altitude in the Puna de Atacama is very cold and extremely dry. In the mountains temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day in the mountains it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be bitterly cold and windy. It should be dry all the time we are in South America, though there is a slight chance of a snow flurry in the mountains. As we are near the tropics come prepared for 10 hours of darkness every night
Temperatures in the valley of Catamarca will be a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day, possibly even as high as 40ºC, but cooler at night.
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions fall somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip.
Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
EXPEDITION LEADER
At the time of printing the leader for this expedition has not been decided. Please call for further details nearer the departure time.
EXPEDITION SIZE
The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus leader.
High on Bonete, first ascents expedition 1997
FLIGHT
Flights from London to Catamarca via Buenos Aires, cost from £700. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America, (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly out on the same plane. If you prefer you can arrange flights yourself to fit in with the expedition itinerary.
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. If you will not be travelling on a British passport you must let us know when you book.
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask. Please bring an extra copy of your insurance certificate on the expedition for the leader.
ACCOMMODATION
While we are staying in Buenos Aires and Catamarca accommodation will be in clean and secure hotels with hot showers. We normally use small family run hotels with a friendly atmosphere. If we have to stay in smaller villages we will use whatever lodging is available; this is usually perfectly clean in South America, but luxuries like hot water may not be available. When out in the desert we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest. Because the climate is extremely dry we may bivvy out in the mountains under the stars on a few occasions; it is a great experience.
HEALTH, HYGIENE AND SECURITY
Argentina is the most well developed country in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You would be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are as unlikely as they are in most British cities. Everyone who visits Argentina is surprised by how much like a part of Europe the country is.
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Argentina driving, fire standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Extreme remoteness : You will be camping in a very remote area for an extended period and therefore obtaining medical assistance for any problem will be a slow process.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : The Puna de Atacama is occasionally affected by severe and sometimes dangerous storms. Forecasts are not so reliable.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness. Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rock slips.
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Information
Email john@andes.com |
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Phone 01556 503929 Fax 01556 504633 phone +44 1556 503929 or 504633 if calling from outside the UK |
37a St. Andrew Street, Castle Douglas, Kirkcudbrightshire, DG7 1EN, SCOTLAND |