First Ascents in southern Peru Dossier 2002

For dates and prices please return to the First Ascents front page

Based in Arequipa in south western Peru, this expedition will attempt a first British ascent of one of the highest peaks in the remote Cordillera Occidental. The peak is a moderate ascent with some glaciers and perhaps some steeper climbing to gain the summit. Before climbing this biggest peak we will make ascents of a couple of lower peaks to help with acclimatisation and it is our intention to also attempt some new routes or unclimbed summits during this stage of the expedition. The whole Cordillera Occidental phase of the expedition will be a long trip of nearly two weeks into very remote mountain country.

We cannot of course disclose the names of any peaks until we receive a booking form and deposit. On receipt of these we will issue a further information sheet giving details of the peaks we intend to climb.

Before going to the mountains we will have several days in and around Arequipa, a pleasant city with a nice relaxing atmosphere.

We ran a similar first ascents trip to the nearby Cordillera Vilcanota in 1999 which was successful on three peaks of over 5500m but wasn’t able to climb the major objective due to serac danger. That trip sold out very early in November, so please book soon to avoid disappointment.

As part of our acclimatisation program we will travel to the village of Chivay on the edge of the spectacular Colca canyon. This is reputedly the worlds deepest canyon and it is certainly the best place in Peru to see condors.

Chivay is at an altitude of 3600m and from here and the neighbouring town of Cabanaconde we will do a number of walks to acclimatise and see the spectacular Colca canyon.

A spectacular eruption in the Cordillera Occidental, 1994 'Andes' expedition

The lower valleys that we will approach through have been glaciated in the past and many small and scenic lochs remain behind. Out in the mountains we expect to find some idyllic campsites, possibly beside natural hot springs which are abundant in the area. Most of these foothills and valleys are still used as pastures by the Quechua speaking Indians and we are sure to see llamas and alpacas grazing. We are also likely to see some interesting wildlife, mammals such as the vicuña and many species of birds such as condors, andean geese and hummingbirds.

For obvious reasons we can’t give too many details away about the peaks we intend to climb until we receive your booking form and deposit for this expedition. The peaks are however moderately technical (up to about Alpine PD), very high (over 5500m) and situated in a remote and scenic part of the Cordillera Occidental.

We will supply a further information sheet about the peaks we plan to attempt on receipt of your deposit. Please phone the office if you'd like to discuss the nature of the peaks in any further detail.

This time of year is the dry season in the Peruvian Andes and there are long periods of stable weather with fewer and less severe storms than the Alps have in a normal summer. There are sometimes high winds and light snow flurries. Temperatures at altitude are extremely cold, going down to -15°C during the 12 hours of darkness each night, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to put up with in return for the great rewards of success. Cold nights, early starts and dehydrated food are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed. We will approach the peaks by jeep and make use of mules or donkeys where possible but clients will have to carry a heavy rucksack above base camp (likely to be 3 or 4 days in total).

Ascents to over 5000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting, squash, circuit training or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months prior to your expedition. Without this training you are unlikely to get to the summit.

For the ascents we have planned on this expedition previous experience of winter or Alpine walking is recommended. It is difficult to predict the exact difficulty of the climbing we’ll encounter due to the nature of the trip but we are expecting to climb routes at no more than grade II Scottish (Alpine PD).

At the time of printing we have not finalised a leader for this expedition. Please phone for latest information later in the year. All our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced British leader.

The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus leader.

In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

El Misti, a smaller volcano above Arequipa

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FLIGHTS

Flights from London to Arequipa cost from £750. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), who have very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as it means we are all on the same flight out to South America. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary.

All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well.

Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. You must let us know at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport as you may need a visa.

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Chachani, another volcano near Arequipa

Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve you when planning the details of the expedition.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

HEALTH AND HYGIENE

Peru is one of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you may get an upset stomach at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice, seafood and all food sold by street vendors. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Your doctor may also recommend rabies, cholera and diphtheria injections. Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas

Peru suffers from a bad reputation for theft and insurance is a necessity. It has to be said that thieves steal from easy targets; most tales of theft involve the victim doing something unwise. It is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully at all times. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. We will issue further advice to all clients before departure.

ACCOMMODATION

While we're in Arequipa we use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage and clean clothes here when we go off to the mountains. In Chivay we stay in very primitive (but clean) accommodation - it's all there is in these remote parts of the world. We will be camping when we are out in the mountains; modern lightweight tents and stoves are provided by us, but you'll need your own four season sleeping bag and mat.

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