Huascaran Dossier 2002

For dates and prices please return to the Huascaran front page

A view of the two Huascaran peaks from Pisco to the north.

This expedition will climb two big peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. The first objective will be an ascent of Copa 6188m, usually a straightforward snow ascent which is about alpine PD. The second and main objective of the expedition will be an ascent of Huascaran 6768m, the highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca and the highest in Peru. We'll climb Huascaran by the normal route up the west slopes from the village of Musho. It usually takes three days to reach the high camp in the col known as La Garganta between the south and north peaks of Huascaran at a height of 6000m. We will then attempt both the South (6768m) and North (6655m) peaks before spending two days descending to Musho. The most difficult part of this ascent is usually passing through the large icefall to reach the Garganta camp. Both summits are approximately PD in standard, but the difficulty of the crevasses in the icefall can be very variable from one year to the next.

The expedition will be based in the wee town of Huaraz, situated at a height of 3000m at the foot of the mountains.

From here we will make a short acclimatisation trip into the Cordillera Blanca before attempting Copa and Huascaran. There will be opportunities to climb one or two lower peaks of about 5000m during this first phase of the expedition.

Huaraz is a friendly wee town of 100,000 people situated in the broad valley of the Callejon de Huaylas at an altitude of 3000m. It makes an excellent base for the expedition. It is high enough for a good start to be made on acclimatisation without having to leave civilisation behind. The town is a spectacular eight hour drive from Lima. There are good hotels and restaurants where you can buy pizza, chicken or steak and chips and of course the local speciality, guinea pig. There are also plenty of bars for those who want to try a bit of Peruvian beer!

The Cordillera Blanca are a spectacular range of mountains containing 22 peaks over 6000m. They lie in the northern part of Peru, just south of the equator and a days drive north of the capital Lima. Like most of the Andean ranges the Cordillera Blanca are relatively young mountains, being only seven million years old. The north peak of Huascaran was the first major peak to be climbed in the Cordillera Blanca, in 1908 by Annie Peck and local guides. The south peak of Huascaran was climbed in 1932 by a German expedition which also climbed Chopicalqui, Copa, Artesonraju and Huandoy. The Germans returned in 1939 to climb most of the remaining 6000m peaks, though the most difficult, Chacraraju, was not climbed until 1956.

Climbing up to the Garganta on Huascaran

At 6768m Huascaran is the highest mountain in Peru, the highest mountain in the tropics and one of the highest peaks in the Andes. The mountain consists of two peaks; the north peak at 6655m is, at present, a slightly easier climb. Both peaks are normally climbed from the deep col which separates them, called La Garganta (6000m). We'll have eight days altogether from the village of Musho at 3000m, giving us plenty of time for acclimatisation and allowing a couple of spare days in case the weather is poor. We can squander these days back in the cafes and bars of Huaraz if we make good progress! We will use donkeys to assist us to base camp and porters to help carry loads to our high camp. We carry all our own gear back down the mountain.

This year we are offering Copa 6188m as an attractive first objective of the expedition. This peak is a relatively straightforward ascent from a high glacier camp. The first day to the Legiacocha base camp is a long climb through fields and forest, the second day involves a short but steep climb up a glacier couloir to reach the plateau and the third day is more easily over the plateau past some very large crevasses to the summit. We use donkeys to carry loads as far as Legiacocha.

If climbing conditions are poor we may have to substitute an alternative ascent for Copa.

We will make an initial three night acclimatisation trip to some of the lower peaks of the Cordillera Blanca after we have had two days in Huaraz. The choice of destination for this initial trip will depend on where the best climbing conditions are. We’ve visited some of the quieter areas at the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca in the past for this warm up trip and made ascents of peaks such as Tuco 5479m, Yanamarey 5220m and Maparaju 5325m.

We have timed this Huascaran expedition so that clients can remain in Peru to climb Huascaran after our Alpamayo expedition. This will give a total expedition length of 30 days from 1 - 30 July 2001. The land cost for this combined expedition is £2390 with an early booking discount of £150 available. Please view our Alpamayo front page and Alpamayo dossier for full information about the Alpamayo ascent. Clients for Alpamayo need to be experienced winter climbers, comfortable on Grade III/IV and preferably having led routes up to Grade II. A similar level of Alpine experience (snow and ice to AD) is equally acceptable

The Huascaran peaks from the west

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This time of year is the dry season in the Peruvian Andes and there are long periods of stable weather with fewer and less severe storms than the Alps have in a normal summer. There are sometimes high winds and light snow flurries. Temperatures at altitude are extremely cold, going down to -20°C during the 12 hours of darkness each night, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to put up with in return for the great rewards of success. Cold nights, early starts and some tinned and dehydrated food are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed. We make use of pack animals or porters where practical but clients will have to carry a heavy sack at times, particularly back down from the peaks.

Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting, squash, circuit training or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months prior to your expedition. Without this training you are unlikely to get to the summit.

For the ascent of Huascaran clients must have a good background of winter or Alpine walking over several years and be confident using an ice-axe and crampons. Some previous experience of winter climbing at the lowest grades (e.g Scottish Grade II) will also be very useful.

The twin peaks of Huascaran (left of centre) as seen from Huaraz

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FLIGHTS

Flights from London to Lima the Peruvian capital cost about £600. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), who have very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as it means we are all on the same flight out to South America. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary.

Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. You must let us know at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport as you may need a visa.

Peru is one of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you may get an upset stomach at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice, seafood and all food sold by street vendors. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Your doctor may also recommend rabies and diphtheria injections. Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas

Arriving at the Garganta camp with the north peak of Huascaran in the background.

Peru suffers from a bad reputation for theft and insurance is a necessity. It has to be said that thieves steal from easy targets; most tales of theft involve the victim doing something unwise. It is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully at all times. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. We will issue further advice to all clients before departure.

All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well.

ACCOMMODATION

While we're in Huaraz we use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage and clean clothes here whenever we go off to the mountains. We will be camping when we are out in the mountains; modern lightweight tents and stoves are provided by us, but you'll need your own four season sleeping bag and mat.

At the time of printing we have not finalised the leader for this expedition. Please phone for latest information later in the year. All our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced British leader.

The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus leader and assistants.

In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

Copa at sunset the day after the ascent

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Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve you when planning the details of the expedition.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

We will be running a social and training weekend for this expedition in the Cairngorms in early 2002. You will normally be able to meet both your leader and other expedition members. We make only a very small charge for these weekends. Please ask for details if you are interested.

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