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The town of Dunwich may be long gone beneath the waves but what remains makes a fascinating place for a day out and a walk in the country. In the 13th century, Dunwich became the premier port of Eastern England, trading in the North Sea, Baltic and Mediterranean until the port went into decline and the harbour entrance blocked in a storm in 1286. Today, due to continuing coastal erosion, the old town now lies beneath the waves, leaving us with only a few remains to explore. This walk is along the eroding cliffs and south across Dunwich Heath to the National Trust's Coastguard Cottages property. The walk starts from the beach car park, the site of the medieval Maison Dieu hospital whose ruins remained until the 18th century. Return along Beach Road on the roadside footway to the first junction and turn left. Where the road bends to the right by a Passing Place sign, turn left up the hill between the hedges on the path to the cliff top. This is a section of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Path stretching 50 miles from Lowestoft to Felixstowe. At the top look out for a tomb stone in the bushes on the left, all that remains of All Saints Churchyard, now taken by the sea. Continue along the cliff top path, passing the ruins of Greyfriars Friary, an order founded in the 13th century by St Francis of Assisi. The central ruin is all that remains of the Refectory whilst on the far side the 14th century gateway has been preserved. Follow the left boundary and over a set of wooden steps at the end to return to the cliff top. At a set of steps down into an old lane, turn right inland, passing under a little ornamental bridge to reach the main track. This is known as Middle-Ditch and was once one of the main roads into the lost town. Follow the track out to the road and continue straight on for about 100 metres and a left turn marked with footpath sign, leading through the trees. This is the drive to the Dairy House and is a shady tree lined track which passes the house and then continues on between rail fences. Walk on through Greyfriars Wood, over a crossing track and on to reach Minsmere Road, the access road to Dunwich Heath. If you want to cut the walk short, cross the road to the path opposite to rejoin the return section of the walk as described below. Turn left and walk along the Minsmere Road, passing two caravan parks and on into the National Trust Dunwich Heath property. It is one of the surviving examples of the Sandlings Heathland which once ran the length of the Suffolk coast from Lowestoft to Ipswich. The heath, originally known as Dunwich Common, was owned by the Borough of Dunwich, until it passed to the Dunwich Town Trust. In 1968 it was acquired by the National Trust, made possible by a contribution from H. J. Heinz and Co. Ltd. The National Trust property starts where the road splits in a one way system around an island of bushes. Turn off left towards the cliff top, following the well defined path beside the trees and through the heather. At the first junction bear right on the well defined path, marked with white waymark arrows, heading along the cliff top to reach the Coastguard Cottages and Lookout Point. Coastguard Cottages were built in 1857 and remained operational until 1909. During World War I the heath was used as a rifle range and in World War II a radar station was set up together with a gun emplacement. The room housing the exhibition in the Coastguard Cottages was built as the command post for the guns, which later included an anti-aircraft battery. From the Coastguard Cottages take the track to the right of the black boarded Heath Barn Field Centre. After 50 metres bear right on the straight well worn sandy path up through the heather. At the top of the rise the raised bank on the left marks the site of the former rifle range, continue on until the path zigzags right and then left to a junction of paths. Turn off the main path on a narrow path to the right between the gorse bushes, marked with a black waymark arrow. This is a narrow clearly defined path through the heather, bracken, gorse and trees to join a track at the point where the short cut mentioned above rejoins the walk from the right. Continue straight on along the track ahead, passing Mount Pleasant Farm and out to the Westleton Road. Cross over with care to the track opposite, heading down to Sandy Lane Farm. At the junction at the farm turn right on Sandy Lane, a shady track heading down the Dunwich River valley. The track emerges at the road close to St James Church, in the church yard is the ruin of the Leper Hospital and Chapel, once remote from the main part of the town. Walk along St James Street to the left of the church past the village sign displaying the old town seal. Down the street pass the old school on the left, the museum, a number of old cottages and the Ship Inn. At the road junction turn left to return to the start of the walk at the beach car park. Fact FileLocation: Dunwich is 43 miles north east of Ipswich, 4 miles south of SouthwoldStart: Beach Car Park, Dunwich Ordnance Survey map reference TM 479707 Length: 4½ miles (short cut available) Conditions: Track, woodland, heath and roadside footway, steps but no stiles How to get there:- Public Transport: For details telephone Suffolk County Council's Public Transport Information TraveLine - 08459 583358 By Car: From Ipswich or Lowestoft on A12 to Yoxford then east to Westleton and Dunwich Car Parking: Free (donation) at Dunwich Beach or £1.80 at Coastguard Cottages Refreshments: Beach Cafe and Ship Inn in Dunwich, National Trust tea room and ice cream kiosk at Coastguard Cottages Public Toilets: Beach car park and Coastguard Cottages Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer sheet 231 Southwold & Bungay and sheet 212 Woodbridge & Saxmundham Information: Museum opening times March weekends only 2-4.30 pm, April to September daily 11.30 to 4.30 pm, October daily 12-4 pm Walking on the web: http://www.anderton.btinternet.co.uk
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