Cambodia Tales

Andy Brouwer's Cambodia Tales

Cambodia Forum

This is the gateway page to your forum. If you have a question about Cambodia, please ask. I will try and answer any question or point you in the right direction for an answer and I hope others will also chip in with their advice and knowledge.

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At the bottom of this page, I have reproduced some of the questions and answers that were removed from my original Forum, in case they are of interest or help. The answers were provided by an array of people. Thanks to all my visitors.

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Deleted questions and answers

Question: Will the Hollywood Films being filmed in Cambodia, help the fledgling Cambodian film industry?

Answer: Cambodia does seem to be on the 'hot-list' at the moment when Hollywood is considering new asian locations. Angkor Wat is of course a big drawing card but directors fed up of Thailand are now looking to Cambodia as a fresh backdrop. You mention 'Tomb Raider' and Dillon's 'Beneath the Banyan Tree', which have both just finished filming in Cambodia. I understand that Dillon has included in his film a moto-taxi driver he found in Phnom Penh, called Sereyvuth Kem, as a key figure in the film. This was very much the same for the actor Haing S Ngor, who you have also mentioned. Ngor was an unknown before being selected for the main part in the 'Killing Fields' and later winning an Oscar for his amazing performance. He went onto make other films before his untimely death. However, well-known Cambodian actors are few & far between.

Cambodian film-making has had a mini-revival during the last ten years or so. However, apart from karaoke videos and short video films, only a handful of Cambodian films have made much of an impression. Rithy Panh's 'Rice People' was shown at Cannes in 1994 and he followed that up in 1998 with 'One Evening After the War'. The latest offering to make a stir is Fay Samang's 'Baby of a Giant Snake' which has been wooing the crowds in Thailand and in Cambodia in recent months, playing to reported crowds of 2 million. Unfortunately, it and other films face a battle in Cambodia, where the capital, Phnom Penh, has only 1 proper movie theatre. I do hope that some of the Hollywood money coming into the country finds its way into helping the next generation of Cambodian filmstars and directors...but I doubt it.

I forgot to mention another offering from Rithy Panh, his 1999 documentary called 'Land of the Wandering Souls' (La Terre des Ames Errantes) which was shown at various film festivals around the globe including San Francisco, Vienna and Edinburgh, and earned rave reviews. Synopsis: A haunting, moving film about the poor families who are paid by the metre to lay the first fibre optic cable across Cambodia. Filmmaker Rithy Panh, who shot the film as an act of mourning for his brother who was killed in Cambodia, accompanies the workers who migrate across the country as the cable progresses, following their struggles to survive - their daily search for food - and their musings about their past and future. The cable becomes a symbol for the past meeting the future as it unearths skeletons killed during the war, while the wandering spirits of the title haunt one of the women workers. The cable is supposed to connect the country to the future, through the world economy, but for workers who don't even have access to electricity and families who have to send their children off to find frogs to eat for dinner, this seems far from true.

If anyone knows of other films from Cambodian directors or involving Cambodia in its storyline, please let us know. An Australian friend recently watched the Hong Kong-produced film, 'In the Mood for Love' where the final scenes are shot at Angkor Wat and show the temple in all its glory. Tony Leung won 'best actor' at Cannes last year for his performance in the film.

Question: Travel in Ratanakiri: Great web-site. I would appreciate your advice on the following: 1. How easy is it to get a boat from Stung Treng to Lumphat (either fast or slow)? 2. Is it possible to arrange with the park rangers at Viracheay National Park for a three day overnight camping excursion into the park, preferably using either one of them or a person they recommend as a guide? 3. Is it possible to go up the Srepok River beyond Lumphat? 4. Are there any problems in entering Laos by going up river by boat on the Mekong from Stung Treng? Vice-versa? There is a web-site article which refers to an overland journey, if I am not mistaken, but I am fascinated with river travel. While these questions are specific, the answers (I believe) could be of assistance to those who want to spend a little more time in the north east.

Answer: Andy has already directed you to my website (Gordon Sharpless' Cambodia Today), which while having plenty of info on Ratanakiri, it doesn't have much about boat trips for the obvious reason - I haven't done a boat trip - but I can offer the following... 1.) boat trip Stung Treng to Lumphat. I have never heard of someone doing this. And as the Stung Treng area is less secure than the rest of the country (logging activity) I'd think twice about doing this. But if you're determined - this is the kind of trip that you'd probably just have to show up in Stung Treng and I'm sure with the right amount of cash you can find someone to take you to Lumphat by boat. Looking for Kurtz? 2.) Yes, I have heard of overnight camping excursions in Virochey. I think Marcel Stoessel mentions this on his travelogue (shoot me if I'm mistaken...). If it's not his travelogue, well, I read about it somewhere... I think... big help I am. 3.) Yes, you can go beyond Lumphat on the Srepok. If you're starting in Lumphat, just ask around with dollars in your hand. Somebody will take you. Probably all the way to Vietnam if you want. Still looking for Kurtz, huh? The horror, the horror... though you may wonder what the horror is about when you see the Srepok (at least by day). 4.) Entering Laos via the Mekong. This is being done - the border crossing is officially open now - many scams, though. They figure you've come this far, you won't turn back, and will gleefully (or not gleefully, they don't care, cash in their hand either way). Definitely cannot get a Cambodia visa here, not sure about Laos. Kurtz didn't go this way...

Hello Ratanakiri freaks. Yes it's possible and even easy to get into the Virochey Park, I spent 4 nights and 5 days hiking there in December 2000. The best thing to do is get a moto driver to take you to the Park headquarters from Ban Lung (about an hour by moto). Just show up with time on your hands I went with a young ranger who'd grown up in the area and who had been trained by WWF. His English was good and he knew the area VERY well. We crossed the river and walked to a small Lao village on the "road" shown on general maps of Cambodia, from there we headed north into the woods. I had orginally wanted to go for a week or ten days but sensed a real reluctance on the part of the guide - after several days hiking I asked him if he ever took out "barangs" for a longer period - "Yes, you could go - you eat like we do!" was his reply. Be prepared to eat some pretty weird stuff. Hammocks were provided plus a blanket - that's all I needed. Cooked meals over an open fire, saw wild pigs and birds, met some very interesting chunchiet (hill tribesmen) got three ticks (still inflamed), ate eels and many other UFO (unidentified food objects) and thoughly enjoyed myself. DO NOT have a deadline or schedule - everything is on Khmer time, be patient you can do anything - including the rivers for a very steep price!

Question: Which is the best guidebook for Cambodia? Any recommendations?

Answer: There's a few to choose from, but compared to other countries, its a limited choice and the quality of coverage varies. The most recent guides for Cambodia like Lonely Planet (LP's Cambodia 4 is due out in early 2002), Footprint, Insight and even the latest Bradt Travel Guide are fairly limited when it comes to anything beyond the obvious. They do a good to reasonable job of covering the main places like Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (& of course, Angkor) and Sihanoukville but elsewhere it can get pretty scratchy. I've seen the new Adventure Cambodia guidebook (published by Silkworm Books) written by Matt Jacobson and Frank Visakay and its pretty good. One book that covers the southern coast of Cambodia well is Robert Philpotts' Coast of Cambodia. If you're looking for practical information, pick up the free Canby guides or visit their website. And don't forget the Ray Zepp series of books on The Cambodia Less Traveled and the Pagodas of Siem Reap. Ray tells me he's bringing out a book called Around Battambang in a couple of months (its now out but only available in Battambang). I also know that the researcher for the first Rough Guide to Cambodia is in-country at the moment, so we'll await her efforts with interest (expected July 2002). I think it'll be a while yet before THE definitive guidebook on Cambodia hits the streets. The reason is that there's still quite a bit of the country that's hidden from the tourist view. Parts of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, the northernmost part of Siem Reap and Preah Vihear province and the Cardamom mountain range see very few visitors, mainly due to the difficult travelling conditions.

Question: Does anybody have any information about jobs, accomodation etc? I visited Cambodia for a month in the summer of '99 and was incredibly taken with the place. I'm about to finish my degree and have thought about going back there to teach English.

Answer: I'm glad you enjoyed it out in Cambodia so much that you want to go back and help. English is incredibly popular over there and everyone wants to learn it. I've cut & pasted a few comments from Rich Garella's excellent website, which has some basic info: Working in Cambodia: It's still possible to show up in Cambodia and find a decent job, especially if you can survive until you've made some contacts and some friends, etc. Having skills certainly helps, but it's not strictly necessary. Pay is low by Western standards (unless you get a cush NGO or diplomatic job), but Cambodia is a cheap and interesting place to live for a while. You can live on $10-15 a day if you're careful and not seeking luxury. There are plenty of organizations, and if you make the rounds you may well come up with something, especially if you can volunteer or work for very little money. Unfortunately there's no central clearing house for foreigner jobs, or even for volunteers (I had one friend, a smart and qualified guy, who searched for over a month trying to find any organization that would let him work at anything for free). The closest thing is the Cooperation Committee for Cambodia, at 35 Street 178, which has a bulletin board out front. For a partial list of organizations in Cambodia, with e-mail addresses, try Signposts to Asia & the Pacific. Teaching: There is plenty of demand for English teaching, though rates tend to be much lower than in wealthier Asian countries. Pay is fairly good at the better schools, such as ACE (Australian Centre for Education), but they like to see certifications. At the street-corner schools they just want someone to stand there and speak. If you're interested in other teaching, you might be able to invent a course at the University. Pay is minimal at best, but it could be rewarding. The URL for Rich Garella's site is: http://www.garella.com/rich/travcam.htm.

Thought you might like to have a look at this website, which has some 'teaching in Cambodia' hints and tips from people who've done it. http://www.eslcafe.com/jobinfo/asia/sefer.cgi?Cambodia. I have a friend in Phnom Penh who is teaching at one of the main schools there. He tells me it was literally a case of turning up, scouting around and checking the lie of the land in terms of opportunities but also remuneration (obviously) and taking a chance. He's now settled at his school and loving every minute of it. Here's what he says: As with most places in Asia, Phnom Penh does have its fair share of teaching opportunities. English schools abound, as seemingly every child in the country is anxious to learn it, even if they can't exactly explain how useful it will be. Most English teachers at the corner schools simply show up with their credentials and find something within a couple of weeks. Don't expect to make a lot of money. When you consider that most foreigners in town enjoy heading out for a few drinks now and then, you'll save very little. More cushy teaching jobs at the international schools (English language high-schools for foreigner children) are recruited overseas. Check out http://www.search-associates.com.

Re accommodation: without stating the obvious, you may need to see the lie of the land once you get over there before sorting out more definite housing arrangements, so a stint at one of the cheaper guesthouses or hotels (like the Walkabout Hotel) might be your best bet. Someone like Glenn Press at the Walkabout will either know himself or he'll be able to point you in the right direction. There is a lot to choose from in terms of housing. Like Andy said, it's best to go stay at a guesthouse and have a good look around. If you'd like housemates, you can go to the internet shop (Cafe Asia) just downstairs from the FCCC and put up a notice. Your workmates at your new job will help you out too, and make recommendations. Art street (no. 178, with lots of little art shops) has a lot of apartments. So does street 19, although there tend to be some nighttime robberies in those areas. The riverfront is nice, but very expensive. If you have a housing allowance, great. Anyway, Andy's advice is best. Enjoy a guesthouse for awhile, and take a good look around before making any commitments!

Question: Any recommendations for a guide for a four day trip to Angkor? Would want someone who is knowledgeable about sites (history, locations, etc) and who has been trained by Angkor Conservation Office or through a college, who is English speaking. As for a driver, does one hire a driver separately or does a guide typically work with a driver?

Answer: There are some excellent guides available in Siem Reap; so you should be able to get just what you require. If you arrive by plane, you'll be swamped by them on arrival. Your hotel will also be able to fix you up with a guide (or car driver if so required) or you can go direct to the Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association office (opposite the Grand Hotel) and take your pick from the qualified guides they have on their books (Tel: +855 63 964347. E-mail: khmerang@camintel.com). Guides usually cost between $20-25/day, whilst a car & driver costs around $20+ per day. A qualified guide WILL enhance your visit to the temples. Whether you need him/her for every day is up to you. Most guides in Siem Reap speak English to varying standards, although some specialize in guiding for Japanese, French, German, Italian tourists and so on. I have a good friend who doubles up as my moto-driver and guide when I'm in Siem Reap, by the name of Kim Rieng. His e-mail is: kimrieng@yahoo.com. He's trustworthy and knowledgable.

In case someone is looking for a quality guide in Siem Reap, one of the foremost photographers of Angkor has given me the details of his guide, called Khon (full name Yeang Sokhon). His contact numbers are: +855 1591 7745, 1591 4331. Fax: +855 639 63553. Through our hotel in Ankgor, I was able to contact Khon (Yeang Sokhon). His email address is: sokhonangkor@bigpond.com.kh. We are trying to arrange for his services for a trip in January 2002. He writes (excerpted): "I am the manager of the travel agent called Destination Asia (Cambodia) but I also do some guiding . . . when I am free otherwise I just hire other guides to look after my clients. I am busy most of the time from October to March this is what we here call the high season, during these months I have so many groups coming so I have to do a lot of arrangements and office work, and almost all of my clients are from America, like : Overseas Adventure Travel, Geographic Expedition, Crystal, Holland America etc.... I first started in 1989 as a tour guide working for the government agency until 1994 then I left and worked for a private tour company till 1998 and then I established my own company in joint venture with four other people. I have also worked with the National Geographic which you can find my full name written in the article on Angkor the one that was issued in August 1999."

Question: The border crossing between Laos & Cambodia: Can you tell me what I should do to cross the border from Laos to Cambodia or vice versa?

Answer: Thanks for your question. The border crossing between Cambodia and Laos is VERY popular at the moment for travellers looking to do the overland route as quickly and cheaply as possible. Border crossings throughout Cambodia seem to be in a permanent state of flux but for at least 6 months to a year now, the border with Laos has been open. What you pay and how you do it are a matter of debate. One guy with his finger on the pulse and who is keenly interested in all border crossing gossip is George Moore and he has a webpage on the topic at: http://www.geocities.com/rectravel/khlavn/lcborder.htm NOTE : George Moore posted some up to date info on the Laos-Cambodia crossing in November 2001 on his webpage.

George wrote to me very recently with more information on the crossing you hope to make: "About Laos / Cambodia at Voeung Kham... I just came from there too. Things have changed now too on this crossing. This one is definitely a go now, in both directions. I met a German guy in Banlung in January who had just come in the southbound direction. He promised to send along his trip report eventually. He said they were a party of three when they came south, and that they simply paid for their "special permit" directly to the guards at the border itself. No problem at all. Mr Peou at Hotel Sekong in Stung Treng also confirmed that foreigners are crossing in the southbound Laos to Cambodia direction now. He said that it started about six months ago. He's only a phone call away from you. His cell phone is on 074-973-762. He's very helpful because he is getting business off this crossing. Also, the officials I talked with in Stung Treng last year were going on and on and on about opening up the area for tourism. I was impressed. They told me that they even have a plan to rebuild the old Highway 13 up to the border. Maybe we wait for five years, they said.

Quickly, the road crossing is still closed (George tells me its now open!). The only option is the boat between the border and Stung Treng. There are no loggers on the river there, none. I've been there twice now. Other than local villagers, the river is totally deserted because of rapids and shallow water. The log smuggling goes on by road further to the west in the Preah Vihear area. You can ride a moto dop or a Honda on your own up to the border crossing on the road from Stung Treng, but you can't cross there. The only option is by boat on the Mekong, if you actually want to cross the border. I slept the whole way up the river during this year's visit. There is not much to see on the river there... The Lao guys at Veoung Kam do not require anything at all other than a visa. They do not issue a permit of their own upon arrival into Laos, or upon exit from Laos. They couldn't care less. They did nick me for a dollar however, because it was their lunch time... This is normal in Laos even at the Cheong Mek crossing to the west of Pakse on the way into or out of Thailand. "Overtime", they call it. The Khmer officials at their border station, just across the river from the Lao station... I have photographs now of the whole area, including the sleepy border posts. Three of the Khmer guys were asleep in their hammocks while the lone awake official shuffled papers in the one room border station. A rack of AK47s stood behind his chair as he handed me a note which said "$10". I asked him if I could stick my business card up on his wall with some others. He said no problem.

To my astonishment, some Khmer taxi drivers hang out at the border station! Where can you possibly go on the Cambodian side of the border in this area? I asked them. They said that they do day tours for the Khmer tourists who arrive at that point, mostly to see the dolphins in the river in that area. Same same on the Lao side of the border. Really, the whole of this border area on the Mekong River is a tourist center now. On the Lao side, in Voeung Kam village... The whole of the small village actually lives off tourism. It's less then two hours from Pakse to Veoung Kam on a superb new road. I was stuck there for a couple hours, trying to arrange transport to the north. We had a problem not because there were not many trucks and cars parked there, but because they were all full of local tourists! Seriously! Maybe I'll find the time this year to get some photos up from that place. I was really surprised! Literally, the only danger on the whole of the trip on the river from Stung Treng to Voeung Kam is if there is a problem with the small boat. Be prepared to swim. That's the whole of it."

So there you have it. The crossing (as long as you have your Cambodian visa beforehand) should be relatively straightforward. It'll cost a few US$ no doubt and you may have to wait for a boat to take you down the Mekong to Stung Treng. From there, you can investigate whether overland travel to Ban Lung is possible or whether you make your way to Phnom Penh via Kratie and Kompong Cham.

Question: Which are the best ways to prevent malaria? I am planning a visit to Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. And was wondering which medication is best to take, and any advice on the subject would be a great help.

Answer: (from a Doctor pal of mine) I’m always horrified by the number of travellers who get their information about malaria and other health issues from traveller’s bulletin boards. This is a serious matter, which you should be discussing with your doctor, or travel clinic. If you want information from the internet, get it from MASTA or CDC, reputable organizations which will give you evidence not anecdote. However, as a doctor, who runs a travel clinic and has travelled and worked in Cambodia, here’s my quid’s worth: Malaria is a serious disease, a killer, and Cambodia presents a real risk. The area around the Thai/Cambodia border is the worst in the world for drug resistant malaria. Only Phnom Penh itself, and the Tonle Sap area are malaria free. Angkor IS in a malarial area. Travellers do catch malaria and other mosquito borne diseases. Andy and I both know people who caught malaria in Cambodia. I got dengue fever there the year before last. In the UK alone, more than 2,000 tourists per year return with malaria. Around 10 per year DIE of it. Malaria isn’t just something that happens to other people. No malaria prevention drugs are 100% protective. Avoiding mosquito bites is also crucial in preventing malaria, dengue fever, and Japanese encephalitis.

To reduce the chance of being bitten: # Wear long sleeved shirts and long trousers after dusk. # Sleep in a screened room if possible, otherwise use a mosquito net . The new wide mesh nets impregnated with residual insecticide (permethrin) are effective, and not too claustrophobic. # Use a plug-in electric insecticide vapouriser or mosquito coil. # Use air conditioning as this eliminates mosquitoes in hotel rooms. # Ceiling fans are also effective at keeping mosquitoes away. # Use a repellant, either DEET or the newer eucalyptus based brands. Impregnated wrist and ankle bands can be useful # Mosquitoes breed in stagnant water (e.g. drains, old tins, open sewers, marshes, ponds etc). You might want to consider this before booking into a guesthouse by the lake in Phnom Penh. # Try to return from upcountry trips before dark as there is much less risk in towns and cities than in the country.

Then we come to preventive drugs. None of these is 100% effective, all need to be combined with bite prevention measures. Instructions need to be followed to the letter, especially with regard to continuing them for the recommended time after leaving the malarial area. There are only two medications that are effective against the drug resistant malaria found in Cambodia. These are Doxycycline and Malarone.

Doxycycline (Vibramycin) : The dose is 100mg taken daily, beginning 2 days before entering the malarial area, and continuing for 3 weeks after. Side effects: If the contents of the capsule come into contact with the oesophagus (the tube from the mouth to the stomach) they may irritate it leading to unpleasant "heartburn" symptoms. To prevent this it is important to wash down the capsule with plenty of water, or take during a meal. It is also wise not to lie down immediately after taking the drug As doxycycline is an antibiotic it may cause diarrhoea (paradoxically it will also treat and prevent many causes of travellers diarrhoea) and may increase the incidence of vaginal thrush, especially in those prone to this problem. Rarely, doxycycline may sensitise the skin to the sun leading to a rash. It is wise to use efficient sun screens. But this potential side effect is grossly exaggerated – most travellers will not have this problem. It is not suitable for pregnant women or children under 12,and women on the pill should obtain specific instructions as it can interfere with its efficacy. Malarone : Is a combination drug containing 250mg of atovaquone and 100mg of proguanil. It has recently been licensed for the prevention of malaria .The dose is 1 tablet daily, beginning 2 days before travel, and continuing 7 days after. Side effect profile appears very good, but it is still a relatively new drug for malaria prevention, so watch this space. Larium : Is not suitable for Cambodia, as there is now quite a high degree of resistance to it. Drug names and dosage recommendations may vary a little ,according to which country you come from, so it’s vital that you seek the advice of your own physician. If, after getting proper information, you choose not to take anything then of course that’s down to the individual. But do at least get the proper info – and take the risk seriously.

Question: Anyone have any good ideas for gifts for the children, on my next visit to Cambodia?

Answers: When I was living in Cambodia (a long time ago) as a kid I loved to play with marbles and rubber bands. With rubber bands we would string them up and use it as a jumping rope. We played various games with marbles and the rubber bands. Also, flying kites was a thing I like to do. I would make kites out of plastic bags and old papers with bamboo sticks as the bones. Hop-scotch was also a fun game to play. So things like chalks, strings, papers, marbles and rubber bands are some of the things I'm planning to take on my trip in April. I hope that helps.

I've made four trips to Cambodia now and I'm always looking for cheap but interesting things to take to the wonderful kids over there. Balloons are always a big hit with children no matter what age. They also seem to like stickers and those rub-on temporary tattoos. Older kids like magazines in English. Airline flight mags went over great (and they're free). I'd given one to a kid in Siem Reap earlier in the year and when I returned this time, I saw where he'd wall-papered the walls of his home (shack) with some of the pages! I always make re-prints of photos I've taken on previous trips and give those to the kids (and adults!) when I return. That is also very much appreciated. Other than that, I've bought cheap t-shirts in Bangkok and given those away in Cambodia. Most of the kids don't own more than a few shirts so that is also a nice gift. Useful everyday items like toothbrushes (and toothpaste), hair barrettes or ribbons, combs, pens, notebooks, shampoo and such are also nice gifts.

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