Technical Tips

	My favourite tip of all time has to be the one about using teaspoons (handles pushed up to the throttle needle) to balance carbs. When you twist the throttle the spoons should move together.
	Rick has supplies of a special tool for fitting the left-hand gearbox oil seal so that you don't need to drop the oil, waste a gasket and remove the clutch - they're about a fiver.
	According to Z-Power guru Dave Marsden, the only difference between the KH500 (13151-012) and the KH250 (13151-021) neutral switches is that the tang is turned through 90%. Just loosen the nut and turn it round. Unfortunately both are now NLA but the KH250 is obviously more likely to be left in stock.
	Rick was given the task of repairing Mark Carters S2 pipe, the pipe itself was very badly corroded to the point where it was holed and thin in several places. A S1c pipe looks identical but in truth the baffle spacing and the interior are very different. The best way of repairing Marks pipes seemed to me to be to cut the old S2 baffle plates out and weld them into a S1 pipe. He had never entered into a pipe before and did not know quite what to expect. Over the years he had repaired several pipes and had actually assumed that they were double skinned, but on cutting open the remains of Marks old S2 pipe a lot of questions were answered. The pipe itself is actually an expansion chamber covered by a cosmetic tube! I think the following picture is quite self explanatory. :

I'm not sure whether this is a technical tip or not - read on and you'll see what I mean...

Over the years I have come across countless “stuck” H2 barrels, the problem is that corrosion takes place in the small gap between the studs and the cylinder drilling and the cylinder just refuses to budge! Some 15 years ago I had to saw a barrel off an H2 and when I finally pressed out the remains of the stud from the casting it took 16 tons on a hydraulic press to remove the remains! ( I now suspect that you are doubting me so read on . . )

About ten years ago Phil Klausuc made a basic but useful tool for removing the seized barrels, it was basically a clamp that fitted/bolted to both the inlet and exhaust ports and then Four large bolts wound down onto the studs and pulled the pot off. This tool has worked well over the years but in recent years the barrels have been taking more force to shift them, I modified and “beefed up” Phil’s tool several times and when I finally lent it to J.A. (the name is protected to save revenge attacks from outraged H2 owners) He made an even stronger version to try and remove some VERY stuck pots! Well, A lot of winding down with the removing bolts later there was a rather loud crack and a rather large amount of barrel parts . . . . L Using the theory that it took 16 tons to shift ONE stud 15 years ago, One could assume that the total force on the studs on this cylinder was over 80 tons ?

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