Green = Air Filter, Blue = Breather hose and connector, Red = Securing screws

First thing to do is make sure the engine is cold etc.
Ok that done you can now proceed to remove the standard ford air filter. To do this first unscrew the two securing screws (Circled red above) and lift the air filter slightly. You should now be able to see a small red pipe coming from the back of the carb into the base of the filter, and the breather hose connecter plugged into the the base of the filter, pull these free and place the air filter out of harms way.

Right with this done you now have to find something to do with the pipes. What i did is cut the red one at the supply (back of crab area). And with the breather hose remove the connector, this leaves you with a pipe coming from the rocker box cover and one from the inlet manifold. Block the one from the manifold with a rubber bung or something similar. Now with the breather hose from the rocker box cover either buy a Crankcase Vent Filter for this (tiny little thing), a marine style adapter. Or you could do what i did and rig up some sort of oil collection pot ( ie an indigo bottle :)
I have been told that you can also drill a hole in the bottome of the case and feed the hose through, the hole must be 2mm smaller in diameter than the outside of the hose. However there was no room to do this on mine.

Now we can start to fit the new filter from K&N. First you must smear a tiny bit of oil on the gasket supplied and then fit over the carb opening. Then drop the base of the K&N filter onto the carb (remember to remove the protective blue plastic first) and line the holes up with the screw holes on the carb, it will only go on one way. Now use your fingers to screw the small bolts supplied through the base plate into the carb and tighten gently with an allen key.
Now place the element into the base of the filter and make sure it fits snuggly in place.
Now hold the top plate over the element and line up the metal pole thingies with he screws stiking through the base plate and hand tighten.
Make sure the filiment is completely inside the case before you tighten it or you may damage your filter.

This is the physical instalation complete, however you now have to sort out the mixture and idle speed.

Ok now the next bit is very fiddly unless you have a co2 anyliser (thanx cools for borrowing yours).

Mixture screw = Green, Idle adjuster = Red

Okay this is not the best way to do this but basicaly what you want to do is to get the engine to idle at around 800 rpm at normal running temp and to have the mixture a little weaker. To do this run the engine for a few mins until it runs without the choke as normal. Now turn the mixture screw (red) clockwise slightly to weaken the mixture (there may be a plastic ant-tanper cap, if so remove it) the engine may now cough n splutter a bit, so just turn the idle adjuster to the right a little and get it to tick over at 800 rpm, if it still coughs and splutters then turn the mixture screw anti-clokwise (richer).
This is one or thodse trial and error things, basicaly get it to run weak without th eengine pinking, and to tick over nicely.

But now my car bogs down when i accelerate from 2000-4000 rpm?
Then what you have to do is slightly enrich the mixture, not to much however as this will cause your engine to over heat and use more petrol than needed (ie waste it)

I tak eno liability for any damage caused to your engine but i dont see how anything should go wrong, just b carefull. Its prbably best to get it tuned at some time and get it done profesionaly, I intend to have it tuned soon :)