Santa Cruz is not like the other islands in the Galapagos archipelago. It is shaped like a shallow, circular dome. Its higher elevations are covered in something approaching a rain forest, with tall trees – many of them unique to the island – and a ground cover of ferns.

Walking along one of the forest paths I am suddenly aware of a tiny, bright scarlet bird, zipping through the darkness of the forest like an erratic spark, perching for a few seconds before moving on. Its curiosity aroused, it pauses on a twig a few metres from where I stand watching. There is time to take two photographs – the first is too hurried but the second is much better.
 
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