| Cagllari Technical And Tuning information | Cagllari bikes are great as standard, and can be even better when tuned up. They are also prone to breakages and not running very well.
This is why you need to be able to get your hands dirty in order to keep the bike running smoothly, and for performing those all important upgrades.
Below, we have a comprehensive list of 'how to' and 'what to do' guides. These guides are mainly aimed towards owners of Mk1 and Mk2 Cagllari's, but some modifications could easily be performed on the Mk3. We Just havnt had chance to do them yet! |
| GENERAL BIKE CHECKS - MK1, MK2, MK3 | Before you ride your Cag, there are a number of checks you should always do. These simple checks should not take more than 1/2 an hour
but will keep your bike in good form and stop it from rattling apart underneath you.
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| BIKE NOT STARTING OR RUNNING - MK1, MK2 | Sometimes, especially when new. Cag bikes are a real pain to get running for the 1st time.
If you are having this problem, then please refer to the tips below and your Cag should be running smoothly. Dont forget, that every Cag that leaves the factory
Should and more than likely will start if set up correctly.
With the mixing bottle, you will see the markings for a mix of 25:1 (see image below). Fill up to the horizontal line with Unleaded (marked with green), and then TOP IT UP to the top of the vertical line (marked red) with 2 stroke. 
This will give you a mix of 25:1 Once the bike is run in, approx an hour or so of constant running, the fuel mix can be changed for a more leaner 40:1 or even 50:1. 2. STARTING Initially starting the bike is difficult in some cases. First of all check that there is fuel visible in the fuel filter, if so then make sure the it is in a position so that the fuel can run through it, i.e not sitting horizontally. If its not sat correctly then fuel will not get into the carb. If that is ok, then next we look at the fuel tap (the white 'twist' tap). To turn the fuel on you need to turn the tap, so that it sits vertical, in line with the fuel pipe. If it is sat horizontally then the fuel cannot pass into the carburettor. Now, next comes the Choke. In the Mk1 and Mk2 instruction books, it tells you that the choke is off (allowing a fair mix of air and fuel for general running) when it is pushed up, and closed (not letting as much air in, so the fuel fires better for starting) when it is pushed down. Well its wrong. Its the opposite, Up for starting, and down for running. So make sure its up to start with. Now comes the starting. To start the bike, it may take a few pulls of the pull start, and possibly a little throttle. It should fire up and run if all above has been done correctly, however there are a small few that dont, and need a bit more attention. Try starting it with the choke in a few different positions to see if that starts it. If the bike is now running, leave it to warm up for a few moments, then close the choke (move it down) and ride off. If your bike has not fired and started... you need to read on. Check that the IDLE SCREW (the small brass screw on the side of the carburettor) is screwed right in. This will mean that once the bike fires it will rev right up, getting plenty of fuel and oil through the system. Once it has started, you may adjust the valve so that the bike sits at a nice idle speed, WITHOUT the back wheel spinning round. The idle screw is missed by many, and could well be the cause of you bike not starting due to it not being screwed in enough! Try this screw in various positions. The next thing to check, is that there are NO kinks in the fuel line. Even the smallest kink can make the fuel flow poor, and not be enough to feed the carb. You need to eliminate any kinks in the fuel pipes by either adjusting them, or cutting and altering them. After you have done this, try starting the bike with the above methods again. Still not starting? It may be a faulty spark plug. The standard spark plugs are very poor and offer a very poor ignition spark. Sometimes this alone can be the cause of a bike not starting or running correctly. To change the spark plug, you will idealy need an NGK BM6A spark plug. Champion offer an alternative to the BM6A which is just as good. To find out how to change your bikes spark plug, then read below for the spark plug changing guide. If it still isnt starting, (USE AT OWN RISK) it may be worth trying to start the bike with some Easy Start. Easy Start is a highly combustable liquid that will burn even with a poor spark. Its available from most petrol stations for about £4 a can. Spray the Easy Start onto the air filter. Try and get it in behind the housing of the filter for optimum results. Spray it in bursts of about 2 seconds, and then try starting the bike. Now it should either start up and run, OR it will start up and run for a few seconds, then cut out. This means the engine is burning only the easy start and not the fuel... the problem lies elsewhere. If your still having no luck then it may be something internal causing problems. It may be worth tryin our online FORUM, as there is bound to be people who have had non-starting Cag's. Try creating a post explaining what you have and havnt done, so people can give more detailed replies. Hope this little guide has helped you start your Cag without the need of an engine strip. |
| FITTING A PERFORMANCE AIR FILTER - MK1, MK2, MK3 | Fitting an upgraded air filter can help your bike breath better, run better, and also LOOK better. Heres how to fit one to your Cag...
It may be an idea to remove the rear wheel assembly to fit a new filter, but this is not neccessary and is more work than needed, if you have a small posi/phillips screwdriver or allen key (whichever holds your standard filter. First of all, you need to buy an uprated air filter, and velocity stack (base). The one pictured below is what an uprated air filter looks like, they do differ from make to make. 
Next you need to unscrew the standard air filter off your bikes carb. To do this, locate the 2 screws either side of the filter housing and un-screw them. Once the screws are fully out then the air filter housing should pull off. This should leave the air intake open, so you can see the internals of the inlet i.e the choke. Next you need to fit the upgraded air filters base, or as some call it, the Velocity stack. This should just screw on using screws provided with the new filter, Make sure they are nice and tight. Now you need to fit your filter. Most filters fit with the use of a Jubilee clip to hold it tight onto the base. Unsrew the jubilee clip so that its loose on the filter. You now need to push the filter onto the velocity stack. Make sure its on correctly all the way round, and then tighten up the jubilee clip, so that its tight and the filter will not pull off. Thats it.. Job done. Your bike should now look like this: 
If you are going to be using your Cag on the track, or if you notice its not quite runing as well as it was, You may need to change your carb jet. To learn how to change your carb jet, look below and find the guide to changing a carb jet. |