The last time we were in the Lembeh Straits staying at the Kungkungan Bay Resort was in May 2002. Since that time there have been many world-changing events. For example, the SARS epidemic, the attack on the World Trade Centre (9/11), the Iraq War and the overthrow of Saddam Hussein as well as the devastating Tsunami. As the Singapore Airlines 747 taxied out for departure on runway 27 at London Heathrow wondered what effects these dramatic events would have had on the people of Sulawesi. One of the long-term after effects of 9/11 became apparent when the beautifully groomed and ever attentive Stewardess served us with our requested vegetarian meal. Contained in the cutlery and condiments package was a note that read as follows:-

“On certain routes we have been obliged to replace metal with plastic cutlery. We apologise for any inconvenience this may cause.”

12 hours later, having consumed two meals, copious snacks and enjoyed two recent blockbuster movies we arrived at Singapore’s Changi Airport.

On the previous occasion when we passed through Changi it was at the height of the SARS epidemic and the airport was all but deserted. What a difference now! The place was positively buzzing. Even so there is no comparison between London Heathrow and Singapore’s Changi airport. They are like chalk and cheese. Unlike Heathrow, which is crowded, noisy, hot, stuffy and has food which is best described as un-inspiring, Changi is totally the opposite. The building is quiet and air-conditioned, has plenty of space to chill out and relax, a good range of quality restaurants with ample seating and it even has Orchid, Sunflower, Tree Fern gardens with Koi ponds to walk around whilst you wait for your connecting flight. The range of stores makes the place more like a Shopping Mall than a simple Airport.

As we only had 1.5 hours until our connecting flight it gave us just enough time to stretch our legs, do some window shopping and buy a few magazines to read during the 3 hour flight by 767 to Manado Sulawesi with Singapore Airlines partner company Silk Air. Once again the service on-board was of equally high standard and the flight passed quickly. Making our approach into Sam Ratulangi Airport Manado I was immediately struck (as I had been on the occasion of our previous visit) by how beautifully lush and green Sulawesi is.

As we exited the aircraft to walk across to the Terminal building the 30 Celcius heat and high humidity hit us. A total difference to the 16 Celcius and dry air of London. Within seconds we were perspiring profusely. God, it’s good to be back.

Our luggage that had been checked all the way through from London to Manado arrived safely and in one piece and upon clearing customs and immigration we were greeted by a representative from the Lembeh Resort who was wielding a placard with our names on it. With our luggage loaded into the Minibus that arrived to collect us, it was a relief to get into an air-conditioned environment once again.

In previous Trip reports to Sulawesi either penned by myself or by others that have visited this area there have been many harrowing descriptions of travelling on Indonesian roads. Descriptions of the vehicles driving at each other and someone giving way just before disaster struck, just like a game of chicken abound.

Having survived four previous road trips the 1.5 hour journey from Manado to the Police Pier just north of Bitung barely caused me to raise an intake of breath unlike before when I thought that each breath would be our last.

Leaving the outskirts of Bitung onto what was laughingly described as a road the Minibus driver expertly manoeuvred his bus like a mountain goat along the last few miles to Police Pier (a favourite dive site during our last visit to Lembeh). A boat was waiting to whisk us on the 15-minute journey across the Lembeh Strait to Lembeh Island and our destination, Lembeh Resort.

Our 18 hour journey was complete but the time difference of 7 hours meant that it was still only approx. 3 p.m. as we settled down with a complimentary drink and were comprehensively briefed by Danny the Manager of Murex Divers the on-site Dive Shop. Having presented our ‘C’ cards and completed and signed our lives away (fellow divers will understand what I mean) we were escorted to our home for the next 14 nights which was one of only 8 separate gorgeous cottages where our luggage was waiting for us.

The view from Room 1 and our balcony afforded a 180 vista, with the port of Bitung visible to the south-west, the mainland directly opposite and un-obstructed views of the Lembeh Straits to the north. What could be better?

Our deluxe cottage was very spacious with one of the biggest and extremely comfortable beds that I have ever seen. Constructed from huge logs of local wood it must have weighed a tonne. A large writing table and chair was provided which was a great place to prepare digital cameras, charge batteries, assemble dive lights and download digital images from the camera into our 40Gb FlashTrax image storage device. In another part of the room was a small fridge containing snacks, chocolate, beer and soft drinks. Complimentary coffee, tea and hot water was on tap as well as a 5 gallon water cooler to help prevent the onset of dehydration (very thoughtful and much appreciated). There was also a bowl of fresh local fruits was a nice finishing touch. Plenty of storage and closet space was also provided. The remote controlled air-conditioning unit was a very welcome addition especially during the night without which it would have been very difficult to sleep. During the day the sun beat down mercilessly onto the roof of the cottage, heating up the inside of the cottage to an uncomfortable level. At those times the air-conditioning struggled but at night the room was maintained at a blissfully cool 22 Celcius without difficulty.

The bathroom was in the Balinese style containing a large shower, wash basin, toilet and at the far end a bath which was in the open air. Sitting in the bath on a clear night it was possible to lie back and watch the stars pass overhead and during the day opening the sliding windows revealed a view of the ships and boats plying their trade up and down the Lembeh Strait.

Although we were very tired, it was still too early to hit the sack. Having unpacked our clothes and dive gear we set-up the cameras in preparation for the 8am dive the following morning. Our dive gear was placed on the balcony where we were told it would be collected from and carried along to the dive centre for us.

Not feeling particularly hungry after our journey we strolled along to check out the cosy restaurant anyway. The spotlessly clean pool was completed in December 2004 and is a real asset to the Resort. Around the pool were sun beds for divers to use to soak up the sun following a days diving. The large Camera Preparation room is well lit, equipped with copious power outlets and ample segregated benches for doing those strange things that us underwater photographers like to do.

The Dive Shop has plenty of gear for rent and is a comfortable place to stop for a post dive coffee and to look up in the identification books supplied all of those bizarre fish and wonderful critters that you see on every dive. The shop offers the usual range of training from the basic Open Water course through to Divemaster. Having said that, most guests are already qualified and experienced divers. The vast majority were clearly underwater photographers as well.

Guests are allocated a dive gear cubicle with their names and room numbers on it. We discovered our dive gear had already been hung up as promised. Now that is what I call service.

Close to the dive storage and briefing areas were two huge tanks containing freshwater (refreshed each day). One was for cameras and the other for washing off your wetsuits.

The four dive boats were berthed in the natural harbour at the front of the resort.

In a room separated from the main building (housing reception, hotel administration, restaurant, bar and gift shop) we discovered the library/satellite television room.

A small but diverse range of books was available to borrow and read when not diving. Also available should the fancy take you was a collection of DVDs and a player if you cannot go without your movie fix.

Having established our bearings we headed back to our cottage for a good nights sleep.

I was awakened by the rays of the early morning sun shining through the gaps in the curtains (drapes). The time was 6:15am and from the comments from my wife it was made very clear that I was on my own for the 8am dive and that she would join me on the 11am one. This was a pattern that was due to continue for the rest of our stay.

Breakfast was served from 7am to 9:30am so having spruced myself up I made my way along to the restaurant. On offer was a self service menu of fruit juice, cornflakes, fresh fruit comprising papaya with lime, pineapple and bananas, toast with an assortment of jams and marmalade plus as much tea and coffee as you wanted. For those with a larger appetite there were eggs (prepared in whichever way you requested), bacon, pancakes, French toast etc.

Early morning is the time of day that I enjoy the most and as I sat enjoying my breakfast a water taxi arrived to pickup more passengers. It was quit fascinating to see 15-20 local school children all stood on top of the cabin of the boat as they made there way to school.

Breakfast complete I had just enough time to return to the room to collect my camera and other diving accoutrements before I had to be at the Dive Briefing.

The first dive of the day was to a site called Teluk Kembahu 3. Using a marker board with a map drawn on it, we were briefed about the site and it’s profile. Including, the species of marine life that had typically been encountered there on previous dives. There were only two other divers on the dive, Rolf and Gabriela (both from Switzerland) both of which were underwater photographers. Between the three of us we were fortunate enough to have two Dive Guides.

The following images were all taken with a Olympus C7070 7 Megapixel Digital Camera with 1Gb memory card.

Just one of the impressive stores at Singapore's Changi airport

Not many airports have Orchids growing in them.

The Silk Air aircraft that we arrived in with luscious vegetation clearly visible in the background.

Our room number 1 with it's 180 degree views from the balcony

Interior of the spacious and very comfortable cottages (room 1)

Dive sites that can be visited from the Lembeh Resort

Dive trip to Lembeh Resort, Lembeh Island, Sulawesi - May 2005 (Part Two)