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TRIP REPORTS
Dive trip to Saba, Juliana's Hotel - May 2006 (Part Two)
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The third type of dive sites are the typical coral reef formations. This is where living and dying coral has formed outcroppings which have built up over thousands of years. These sites were usually dived as the second dive of the day as they were again on the shallower side. Once again be advised that if you are diving on air, as I was you will find that due to the uptake of nitrogen on the Pinnacle dive and that even with an hour surface interval it is more than likely that your second dive will be limited to that which will ensure that you do not go into deco. In my case is was managing a maximum of about 60 minutes on the second dive. This is another good reason for taking a Nitrox course, which can easily be completed with Sea Saba without too much of an interference to your fun. All of the dives could be guided if you wished but the guides were more than happy to let divers do their own thing provided that they followed safe diving practices. Generally the reefs were in very good condition and definitely on a par with some of the other better Caribbean islands on which I have dived. One of the notable finds for me (although not particularly rare by any means) was the number of Sailfin Blennys. On one particular site I spent the entire dive prone on the sand inching my way forward camera in hand towards an empty tubeworm from which a Sailfin Blenny would intermittently emerge and flash his fin up and down to attract the attention of a neighbouring Blenny a couple of feet away. I took 36 shots with my film camera and returned to the the dive boat a very happy diver indeed as this was the only time that I had actually seen one of these Blennys out of its tube, let alone managed to capture it on film. As easy as entering the water by giant stride was, returning back on the boat was equally simple. A drag line was always available and exiting the water, was just a case of removing your fins, handing them to the crew and ascending the ladder. For those who had difficulty in climbing the ladder with their tanks on, the crew were more than happy to lift the tank onboard after you had removed it in the water. After the second dive of the day which was usually about 13:30 the dive boat returned to the dock at Fort Bay to collect freshly filled tanks, pick up any divers who only wanted to dive in the afternoon and drop off those divers who had finished for the day. In my case I decided to sample some of the topside delights of Saba and the majority of days returned with the waiting minivan taxi back to the hotel for some lunch and a rest before enjoying the remainder of the afternoon on dryer pursuits. Although Saba does not have many particularly notable attractions to visit, it more than makes up for it with the sheer beauty of the flora and fauna of the island. Saba is a photographer, hiking, walking and nature lovers delight. There are numerous clearly marked trails around the island which range in difficulty. A trail guide book can be purchased from the Trail Guide shop in Windwardside for just a few dollars. Each trail is described along with the flora, fauna and wildlife that you are likely to see as well the place to get the best views of the island. Just to give you some idea of the photographic opportunities that Saba has to offer, we set off from the hotel with the intention of commencing walking one of the trails but only managed to get as far as the grounds of the small Museum which was just 100 yards from the hotel. We remained in the grounds taking pictures of the outside of the picturesque museum, the wonderful flowers, plants and a pair of Bananaquit birds that were building a nest in the light fitting of the Museums Pergola. When we looked at our watches more than 3 hours had passed and we had only covered a total distance of 150 yards and it was time to return to the hotel in order to get cleaned up for the evening. Most of our afternoons were taken up in a similar way although we did manage to complete a few of the official trails. As it was our first visit to the island and not knowing how well the trails were marked we decided to employ the services of a local guide that Lynn at Sea Saba recommended and arranged. We were collected from our hotel by the guide whose name was "James". When we first saw him, we were a little concerned as he was dressed in combat clothes and carried a very very large knife ala 'Crocodile Dundee'. Questioning him with regards to our concerns about our attire (Short sleeve shirts, short pants, trainers and bush hats) he asssured us that we were adequately dressed. He suggested that in addition to the litre of water with electrolyte additive that we had brought as part of our preparation, we should take another two litres of water. As it turned out this was a wise move as we perspired profusely throughout the hike. We set off in his truck to the trail head. I had to sit in the open flatbed as there was only room for my wife in the cabin. Arriving safely at the start of the "Sandy Cruz Trail" we set off along the clearly marked path which was described as having a difficulty rating of moderate. The Sandy Cruz Trail is a historic route which linked the communities of Hell's Gate and Mary's Point prior to the building of the road. Today it is wonderful trail which allows hikers to enjoy the richness of the rainforest. Initially the trail climbs fairly steeply through cultivated fields with good views down to the coast. After this short climb the trail enters the rainforest and continues along the wall of a ravine. Stopping every few feet to take photographs and question James about the plantlife and wildlife that we saw mean't that progress was slow. James was a font of knowledge about the island, it's people and the plantlife that was used for medicinal purposes in times gone by. We passed through thickets of elephant ear, tree ferns and bromeliads growing in abundance in the trees around us. The trail left the rainforest and entered another open cultivated area with magnificent views down to the North Coast. By this time the sun was starting to sink and although we had not completed the Trail we decided to head back. It had been a fabulous introduction to hiking on Saba and James our guide made it all the more enjoyable. He was incredibly patient when we stopped to take photographs and answered all of our questions enthusiastically. He definitely was not a macho Crocodile Dundee and I cannot recommend him highly enough. With confidence that the trails were well marked, we walked a number of other Trails unguided, including Bod's Mountain Track, and part of the 1064 Mount Scenery Steps. On many occasions we merely stayed within a few hundred yards of Windwardside enjoying and photographing the wide array of wildflowers that seem to grow in abundance just about everywhere on Saba. The two weeks that we stayed on the island passed as quickly as they always seem to do and it was not long before we were back in the taxi on the way to Saba's airport for our flight back to St Maarten and then onto Antigua for the BA flight home. Before I finish this article I just want to give you a brief conclusion about Saba. Juliana's Hotel was very comfortable and the staff were obliging and helpful. Sea Saba are a very professional outfit with good equipment and facilities. The diving is very acceptable and combined with the wonderful topside scenery, makes Saba a good all round destination. The one thing that sticks in my mind is how safe and secure we felt. Even at night we were unconcerned when out walking enjoying the cooling breezes of the night air. If you enjoy diving, hiking, walking, nature watching, good food and friendly people with not many tourists then this is the place for you. If you are looking for beaches, lots of shopping and a hectic nightlife then forget Saba and go somewhere else. |
A lizard licking the nectar from a roadside plant Cactus flowering at night One of Saba's coral pinnacles Sailfin Blenny in vacated tubeworm |