V ANDA V
"Wagamama meets Modern Italian"
66 Baker Street
Marylebone
London
Style of cuisine: Italian (modern)
Date of visit: Multiple times between October 2003 and June 2004
Verdict: Sorely Missed
Anda opened to little fanfare in the late summer of 2003. In fact, despite living nearby, I only discovered it when the review in the Independent on Sunday rated it 16/20, one of the highest scores I have ever seen it award. So I thought it would be churlish not to check it out.
The first impression was of bright, modern, minimalist decor, with largely white walls and light pine tables and benches. Apparently the place was set up by the person behind the Wagamama concept, and in a sense there similarities, with long benches rather than intimate tables for two or four. Then again, it was rarely very busy when I went there, so I never had to sit squashed up to strangers like one does at Wagamama.
The menu was reasonably extensive, its main failing being that it didn't change much in the times I went there - true, there was a truffle special menu in the autumn, but that aside, I don't recall anything being added or removed from the menu. Prices were if anything a little on the high side.
Starters included deep stuffed fried courgette flowers, and carpaccio of beef, while the pasta courses comprised about five pasta dishes as well as at least one risotto. Portions of these were generous - three courses would really have been too much here, so it was best to choose between pasta or main course. Main courses were, on the whole, excellent. The osso bucco with saffron rice, the roast sucking goat and the calves liver and pancetta, rolled into little "cigars", were excellent. So much so I don't recall ever having anything else there! Side orders included baked aubergines in parmesan, a great favourite of mine, while the dessert list included a superb chocolate tartufo. The whole menu was let down by the cheese plate - rather a disappointing collection of too-similar semi-hard cheeses. The wine list was extensive, concentrating almost exclusively on Italian wines, with caraffes available in 250ml and 400ml format, as well as a wide range of bottles going all the way up to £80.
Overall, the place was very good, with friendly if sometimes a little inattentive service, excellent quality of food, though prices were a little on the high side.
Alas, Anda appears to have closed this summer, as the curtains have been drawn every time I've passed it of late.
***********************************************************************