|
La
Porchetta
|
Landgate
Bistro
|
|
Polidor
|
|
La Porchetta, Stroud Green Road, London N4 020 7281 2892
La Porchetta is one of the finest pizza places in London, now with a (less atmospheric) sister restaurant in Muswell Hill. The pizzas are among the largest in town, comfortably draping off the large plates, so it's always fun watching the uninitiated order a garlic bread starter (same sized pizza base brushed with tomato and garlic) as well as a pizza. In addition to about 20 pizza varieties (my favourites are the Capricciosa, Fantasia and the enormous Calzone) there are an equal number of pasta dishes, also served in monster portions. The squid in its own ink is particularly good - aside from turning tongue, lips and teeth black in the eating process! A fair selection of wines is complemented by an excellent choice of beers - Peroni, Budvar and Erdinger Weissbier. Not an English-brewed lager in sight...
The atmosphere is noisy but fun, with the Italian serving staff probably supplying more of the din than the customers, which takes some doing. The place has become a victim of its own success, and despite a large expansion a couple of years ago people still queue into the street most nights. Or maybe it's the lack of alternative choice in the area? If you can't get in, phone and grab a take-away. But even then, the scrum getting through the door can be interesting. The only other downside is that they do over-salt the dough occasionally.
La Porchetta also has establishments in Muswell Hill, Upper Street, Islington and Boswell Street, WC1
Landgate Bistro, 5/6 Landgate, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7LH 01797 222829
Probably the finest
restaurant in the Rye area, serving a wide range of modern British dishes based
mainly on local farm and fishery produce in a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Starters frequently include local
squid or cuttlefish in a tomato-based sauce - one of the most exquisite seafood
dishes I have ever tasted - globe artichokes and seasonal soups, such as
Jerusalem artichoke soup. On my last visit other starters included a pheasant
risotto, and boudin blanc served on a bed of fried apples. Main courses
invariably include many types of locally caught fish, Romney Marsh lamb and Gressingham duck, as well as seasonal dishes such as game. The noisettes of sika
deer were tender and succulent, cooked a perfect medium-rare. The lamb shank
with flageolet beans bore a striking resemblance to a South-Western French
cassoulet. The partridge was also of very high quality. The meal can be finished
off with a fair choice of classic desserts, while the wine list is very
extensive. One further commendation is the sherry, which is served to
perfection, a rarity these days. Prices are very reasonable. Whoever wrote the
review I once read, claiming the Landgate charged London prices, has clearly
never eaten in London, or never seen a bill at the Landgate. Book early, as
space is very limited and the restaurant's quality is reflected in its
popularity, even in the off-season.
Last visited: 07/11/03
Cremerie Restaurant Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur Le Prince, 75006 Paris 01 43 26 95 34
I'd always called it La Cremerie (that's how I was introduced to it), but
while researching its details I discovered its real name! Fantastic, down to earth
bistrot serving traditional country cuisine at
very reasonable prices, something it's been doing for over 100 years (an old
haunt of 
Hemingway's just like Botin in Madrid). A rustic and convivial atmosphere prevails as diners sit
wherever they can squeeze in on long benches with paper tablecloths adorning the
tables. In winter, a heavy curtain over the door keeps the draught out and
obscures the view in from the street, increasing its allure as the din of the
many conversations inside spills out onto the street. The whole place is
presided over by one of the most unfeasibly large-breasted women ever to grace
the earth. But watch her temper, it can be quite sharp.
The food, as mentioned, is traditional country cuisine, with starters such as escargots, patés and terrines, tripes, and country soups, followed by classic dishes such as Boeuf Bourguignon, Coq au Vin, duck or goose, and a variety of beef, lamb and pork dishes. I'm a bit sketchy on detail as I haven't been for about a year, but it's very good food, you'll just have to take my word for it! Desserts are equally good, and once again I cant' remember exactly what they do! There is a sizeable wine list, though you're often best off taking a caraffe of the house red, probably the most fitting drink for the informal atmosphere.
My best advice is to seek this place out when you're in the area. It's on the left-hand side of the road coming from Odeon, just past rue Racine. The pub next door is a good place for an aperatif, and to use the toilet, as La Cremerie doesn't have one*. Be warned, though, you can't book, and they take cash and luncheon vouchers only.
Last visited: some time ago, though a friend I sent there recently liked it a lot!
* Since writing this, I have been informed that Polidor in fact does have a loo; however, judging by the description of it, you're probably still better off going next door!
Also worth checking out:
Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 PARIS 01 47 70 86 29
Large 19th century restaurant that has preserved its authenticity despite the throngs of tourists. Similar informal atmosphere as Polidor, but in a grand setting. The waiters are part of the entertainment, it seems. The food is basic but good, the wine cheap. Crowded, with long queues to get in, it's worth it for a great eating experience.
Last Updated on 08 December, 2003