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There are many sites
dedicated to this pastime and as yet I haven't attempted to carve my own
stamp. That said it is something I will try and I am always inspired by
the intricate and impressive stamps, which many letterboxers create.
Basic requirements
are some quality rubbers / erasers and a set of hobby / modelling knives
To be continued …….
Take a nice
white plastic rubber / eraser (Staedtler Mars) and transfer Xeroxed letters
or images onto it.
To do this
roughly cut out the xeroxed letters (or image) you want to use then selotape
it, face down, onto the rubber, being careful not to tape over the image,
(it won't transfer if you cover it with tape). Then I take a piece of cotton
or a napkin, whatever, and saturate part of it with nail polish remover
(NPR) or acetone.
Rub this wet
thing gently onto the back of the Xerox copy ensuring that you don't move
the copy. You will need to apply some pressure however. Wet the copy well
to get the toner to transfer.
The other
option, is to draw your image or lettering on the eraser with a pencil,
remember it is a reverse image !
Then carve
away everything that doesn't look like an elephant.
The carved
eraser doesn't ink as well with the toner dryed to it, so now you can remove
the image NPR or acetone.
Don't rub too
hard, this is a rubber ...its mission in life is to disintegrate when
rubbed!
Carving :
RULE #1:
Always try to angle your cuts AWAY from the design. If you undercut the
image it won't print properly and it just might break off a critical
component of the stamp. Straight down is okay but angled away is stronger.
These things will last 20 years if you aren't terribly rough on them.
If your
rubbers have a logo printed on the flat face you can usually wipe that away
with a napkin soaked with acetone. Then you can see your transfer more
easily.
RULE #2:
Keep your blades sharp.
Stamp, look it
over, maybe carve a little more away here and there, stamp it again, look
again, maybe a few more touch-ups and voila!
The image really needs to be black & white to carve it. Shading is possible
through crosshatching but difficult to achieve.
When photocopying a picture if you set contrast all the way down (LIGHTEN)
so that grey drops out. Perhaps repeating the process a few times you can
get sometimes achieve a usful black and white image. Putting the contrast
back up to the darkest setting and make one more copy to blacken the image
that's left.
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