Engine & Drivetrain

Engine & Drivetrain

Engine Rebuild

There are a few things that must be done eventually, so, if you are going to dig into the motor at all plan on patching up the weak spots while you are in. First, is the infamous second gear issue. The early FJ's had a problem with slipping out of second gear. The solution, in most cases, is to have the gear under-cut, so, look at this option before you buy any parts. There is a good write up about this on Gary Foreman's site FJ1100.com. Second, the FJ is known to have issues with it's starter clutch and chain. If you have seen any symptoms such as the starter slipping or failing to turn over fix them while you are there. If the bike has racked up a ton of miles it would be a good idea to swap parts out and rebuild the starter even if you have no indication that there is an issue. Keep in mind that putting a new starter chain in this motor requires splitting the cases. IE... it is no small weekend job.
I recently polled Jon Jarosz about what he felt was the most important part of a good rebuild. His response follows:
The cylinder head is probably most important, after the ignition system, on a motorcycle. I had the head ported & polished, with stainless valves & a 5-angle valve job. My cam sprockets are slotted and my cams are degreed. If I had more money, I would have gone further. As for the bottom end, FJ's are rock solid. The only bike with a stronger crank is the Suzuki GS1100. The race shop I deal with told me that once you get up over the 200 BHP mark with an FJ, it's time to start beefing things up. However, there's a guy in California with a turbo/nitrous FJ that is pushing something like 300 BHP and still uses a stock bottom end (however, the connecting rods have been shot-peened). My bike's bottom end is stock, and it will stay that way until I do some serious damage to it. [JJ]
Should any of this really interest you on a serious level I will trust you to get in touch with a good machine/ speed shop and follow their advise on parts to use.

Valve Timing Tutorial

Any high school gear head knows that Competition Cams doesn't do bike stuff.

So, why include a link to their page on a site about bikes? Well, in short they have some pretty smart cookies working for them. One of them did a great write up on how valve timing actually work in terms that you and I can understand. Click on the image to see it.

Cam Shafts

If your intention is to build a monster FJ head work is the place to start. One can start by smoothing up the casting marks and installing a more aggressive cam shaft. Thousands of dollars can be spent here. The final stop is to flow bench the head and install lighter valves and and very aggressive cam. Where you go with this up to you and your wallet.

Piston Kits

This is the ultimate way to get more out of your machine. For most it is just a starting point on the road to building a bike that eats up straight pieces of pavement like they were candy. The fact that the FJ has been a very popular chassis for building drag racing machines has kept the availability of engine parts very diverse. Piston kits for the FJ range in size from 1188cc's to 1314cc's with other options for increasing the displacement even more.

Clutch

Clutch Slave Rebuild: Complete instructions are available through FJ1100.com.

Clutch Modifications: The FJ's clutch is somewhat lacking in it's stock configuration. It is common for it to slip especially in the case of higher mileage FJ's. One of the most common fixes is to add a second spring to the stock configuration.

Another common, slightly more complex, modification can be had by installing a kit by APE. See the parts page for contact info and parts pricing.

You will find advice for rebuilding the master cylinder and bleeding the lines on the Brakes & Suspension page.

Oil Coolers

The standard replacement for the stock FJ cooler is the 15 row unit by Earl's. There have been many discussions about other potential choices including using automotive coolers. It has been decided that this is the best choice. Though, I believe that an automotive option was arrived at, I cannot say how that has gone in the long run. The 15 row cooler fits in the same area as the stock unit therefore, leaving the same frontal area of the engine open to air flow. This is important, as the cooling fins on the motor do a lot to dissipate heat.

Oil Change

It would seem that the subject of, "what oil is the best" is running neck and neck with, "what tires should I use" for most popular topic of discussion on the list. Given that is the case, I figure I ought to say at least two words about it. When you start talking about oil in the world of motorcycles you must keep in mind that you are talking about transmission fluid, as well. There is no separation of these two things like you get in the world of automobiles. The FJ is also prone to burn some oil. Most folks say that this is normal. I would suggest that the FJ is also one of the largest air cooled bikes in the world. It would seem to me that from the factory no motorcycle should use oil. Though, if you let it overheat once, presto, it uses oil and won't pass a leak down test to save it's life. It might run fine but...

Oil Preferences

Many of the FJ owners that were poled used Mobile 1. This stance is due mostly to the reports of better shifting and less oil leakage/ burning. There are still a great number of us that us more traditional products. Castrol GTX is one of the more favored conventional or "dino" oils. A lot of the folks that use the higher priced synthetic oils claim that they do so based on faith in the product. Much like the faith one might have in a higher power. Religion aside at the end of our latest discussion on these products I was given four truly useful pieces of information. The first is a somewhat humorous attempt by Mazz to put the issues into focus. A list of questions that should be asked is the result. Enjoy!

Is synthetic oil better for my engine than natural oil?

Have any field tests been run that clearly show that synthetic oil is better for a car or bike engine than natural oil?

How much more will a dealer offer me, on a trade in, when I tell him I used synthetic oil in my bike or car?

How about if I really did use synthetic oil in the old beater?

Have the synthetic-oil makers actually solved those early problems that sometimes caused synthetic oil to break down to a sticky tar?

The next time I repave my driveway, should I use synthetic tar or natural tar?

Can I use the synthetic tar that my old synthetic oil turned into?

Is there any difference between "synthetic oil" and "ersatz" oil?

During the latter part of WWII, the Germans were forced to run most of their military vehicles on ersatz gas....how come they lost?

If Rider A uses Castrol GTX, and changes it every 2,500 miles, and Rider B uses Mobil 1 bike oil and changes it every 20,000 miles, what should Rider C use when he rides his bike from Los Angeles to Buenos Aires this summer?

Why do most bike and car makers recommend the same oil-change interval whether I use synthetic or natural oil?

If synthetic 10-dollar oil is so much better that natural 1-dollar oil, how come I was given such a hassle when I tried to pass some synthetic 10-dollar bills that I made from natural 1-dollar bills?

How many engines, in street bikes or cars, have failed solely due to engine-oil breakdown?

Why does Mobil 1 synthetic bike oil cost 5 bucks a quart more than Mobil 1 synthetic car oil?

What does the statement "I believe in synthetic oil", really mean?

What does the statement "I believe in Mobil 1", really mean?

Should I add Synthetic Oil, to God, Country, and Mom's Apple Pie as things I should be willing to die for?

Should I add Synthetic Oil, to God, Country, and Mom's Apple Pie. as things I should be willing to die for, as long as the economy stays in good shape, and I have a job?

Why isn't synthetic scotch as popular as synthetic oil?

Some people claim synthetic oil does a better job of keeping potentially harmful particles in suspension in my engine. Why won't this block my oil filter quicker?

If I eat synthetic pork chops instead of natural ones, will I keep cholesterol in suspension in my blood?

Since synthetic oil seems to leak out of older engines faster than natural oils, why does it stick to metal engine surfaces better?

If synthetic oil is better that natural oils, does this mean synthetic maple syrup is better than natural maple syrup?

Is synthetic maple syrup better for my engine than natural oil?

Okay now that you have hopefully laughed about our question of what is better. Lets get down to brass tacks.
Despite the musings about synthetic scotch and the like Mazz raised some interesting questions in his email. Are the more expensive brands really all that much better? Can you really go that much longer between oil changes with these products? It is said that the benefits of buying a more expensive synthetic automotive oils are:

Higher viscosity retention. (This is a fact that has been documented.)

Better shifting when used in motorcycle engines. (The trade off is that some have experienced clutch slippage too.)

Better particle suspension. (This maybe true though some folks think that since Mobile 1 provides better viscosity retention that they increase the intervals between oil changes. Why then, as Mazz pondered above, does this mean that the better particle suspension will not clog your oil filter quicker?)

Clings to engine surfaces longer. (Great! I have yet to see proof of this claim, though, it would be nice to think that something makes cold starts better for your engine. This is where the faith comes into play I guess. Though, would this not make oil changes more difficult. How long should one wait for the last of the old oil to drain from the motor?)

All of this said the last three things valuable things come in the form of articles that you should read if you find yourself undecided on what brand of oil you should use. The first two are by Motorcycle Consumer News, Consumer Reports. These are real world test. The MCN piece uses a test bike and calls in the assistance of some laboratory technicians to observe the changes in the oils. The Consumer Reports article is a test on big city taxis that gives some real world numbers on the oil's performance. The final article was sent to me as a scan and may take some time to load in your browser but it is well worth a read. It is an editorial from Motorcycle Consumer News. It is not based on any real word testing. There were no technicians called in to exam the findings. It is based entirely on the opinion and experience of one man.
I personally have used Castrol GTX for many years in a great number of vehicles both 2 and 4 wheeled with satisfactory results. It performs well in all conditions. I would be hard pressed to make a change. My thoughts are echoed by a great many FJ owners. I will not presume to tell you what oil to use. I can tell you that the three most popular brands are Mobile 1, Golden Spectro, and Castrol GTX. Read the material and make you own choice. I will insist, however, that it is not as important what oil you use but that the oil be changed at the interval the your service manual suggests. I can also tell you that it is generally agreed that the expensive motorcycle specific oils are a waste of money.

Snake Oil (Oil Additives)

This is one thing on which most all of us agree. Though, there are a couple of die hard Prolong users out there most of us will not touch any of the oil additives. The ones containing Teflon are downright bad for your motor. PERIOD! The Teflon if ground up into a fine powder. It requires much more heat to bond with engine components than you hope that your motor will ever produce. So, what it does do is clog the passage ways in your motor causing oil starvation to the head, etc... Bad news for those that love their bikes. If you care to investigate this any further feel free to click on the link below to see what the FTC has to say about our friends at Prolong, Slick 50, STP, etc...
Federal Trade Commission's Search Engine

Oil Filters

Most of us use Fram filters with good results. However, there were reports of bad o-ring gaskets included with the Fram filters earlier this year. They were said to be under-sized and caused leaking between the filter housing and the engine casing. The affected filters were stamped as a product of Canada. The cure for this issue was to purchase the OEM filter and use the gasket from it. It was pointed out that the o-ring gasket need only be replaced when it starts to show wear.

Oil Changing Tips

The most common error when changing oil is pinching the electrical wires that run right next to the filter housing between the housing and the engine case. Watch this when you change your oil.
Also, there is a washer that fits up against the filter. It is very easy to accidentally throw this part out, as it tends to stick to the filter.

Oil Leaks

One of the most annoying things in the world for a bike owner. The way this usually goes is that the leak develops somewhere completely out of the way and then finally manages to appear from somewhere completely different than the source of the problem. Well we all know about the dye that you can add to you oil that makes it show up under a black light. This is a good solution to the issue if you happen to enjoy mood lighting or getting high. I do not own a black light, myself, you might. A simple solution was offered up that involves common household items. Common that is if you have young children or play pool.
1) Clean your engine very carefully.
2) Dust the leaking area with talcum powder.
3) Run your engine while on it's centerstand.
4) Run through the gears.
5) locate leak.

Valve Shims

The shims used in the FJ are standard 25mm. A number of other motorcycles use the same type.

Honda:CB 750 All (79-93), CB 900 All (80-82), CB 1000 83, CBX 1050 All (79-82), CBX 1100F 83
Yamaha: XVZ12 All (83-85),VMX12 (All) 85-93

Chain & Sprockets

Though determination has been made that the DID 530 ZVM is the best choice available for a long lasting drive chain., the choice of which sprockets to use is many times a matter of personal preference or brand loyalty.
The nut that holds the front sprocket on the countershaft is 36mm. You will need to know this if you want to change your own chain and sprockets. See below for a proven method to remove the old chain.

Aluminum Sprockets

Though, there was a bunch of bickering on this topic most of the folks that responded agreed that steel is the way to go.
6061-T6 Aluminum (Highest grade, heat treated) per AMS 4127
Tensile Strength - 45 ksi
Yield Strength - 39 ksi
Rockwell - B60

AISI 1010 Steel Hot Rolled (Cheapest Grade Available) (AMS 5042, 5062)
Tensile Strength - 44 ksi
Yield Strength - 24 ksi
Rockwell B64
           AISI 1020 Hot rolled carbon steel
           TS = 65 ksi
           YS = 43 ksi
           AISI 1030 plain carbon steel, cold drawn
           TS = 87 ksi
           YS = 74 ksi

The conclusion is that the 6061-T6 is no better than the cheapest steel available. A 7075-T6 aluminum is significantly better (83 Tensile, 73 yield, B88 Rockwell) but is easily matched or surpassed by most steels. I'm sure that keeping the chain properly lubricated is so much more important that this discussion is a moot point. [Andy Pugh & Rick W.]

If one follows "conventional wisdom", and changes sprockets and chains at the same time, and both the typical steel, and aluminum sprocket "lasts" the life of a chain, it would seem that tensile strength isn't much of a factor. If both sprockets provide satisfactory service for 20,000 miles, and are then replaced, the fact that one has twice the tensile strength of the other, isn't important, right??) This still leaves aluminum with a *slight* weight advantage. Now maybe some riders will notice, and appreciate, a few ounces of less unsprung weight in the arse end of a 570 lb street bike, but I for one, cannot. Since steel sprockets are *generally* less costly than aluminum ones, for the FJ I'm sticking with steel. Some may think that aluminum looks purtier than steel, others, like me, think that beauty lies in the (lower) price of the steel sprockets. [Mazz]
I might be able to talk myself in to using the 7075-T6 aluminum sprockets from Sprocket Specialties but, that is sort of a foolish view when you consider that the high grade aluminum sprockets are much more expensive than the high grade steel. I would not be doing it for the weight savings, that's for sure. It would be an aesthetic choice on my part and nothing more.
The bottom line is that steel makes more sense on the FJ.

Interesting Link

This page shows how using a gear & chain arrangement for final drive can improve BHP and torque loss at the rear. I do not know if any of these products are available to the public sector.

Effects on Performance & Gas Mileage: Tire Diameter & Sprocket Size Changes

It is commonly asked, "So, what if I don't use the stock size?" "How will [insert variable] affect performance?" To answer to these questions Rick W put together a spreadsheet that calculates the gearing changes.

Chain Lube

There are two schools of thought when it comes to chain lube.
The first recommends the usage of a Scott Oiler with 90 weight gear lube or even more sticky oils such as chain saw lubricant. The majority vote is here. The low maintenance is a very attractive thing. This system is said to work very well. It extends chain life and is hassle free.
The second school of thought uses products from a spray can. These products require a lot more attention to get good results.
Chain Wax is not really an oil it is more of a sealer. It does not leave the sticky residue that traditional chain lubes do. It also is not for use in the rain. It washes off leaving the chain to rust. This is a fine product but, you must take care to clean and dry your chain if it gets wet.
Other traditional products are fine as long as you take the time to clean up after them. I, personally, use PJ1 with good results. The solvent of choice for clean up is WD40.

Chain Adjustment

The manual lists one prescribed method for chain adjustment on the FJ. How they arrived at this one proper way to complete this task, we may never know. The fact is that everyone and their gear weighs a unique amount. Most people find the Yamaha recommended adjustment to be too loose. This is probably because they loaded the bike to it's maximum recommended amount when they came up with their procedure for adjustment. The reason for this is that the swing arm levers against the chain causing it to tighten with additional weight and suspension travel. Therefore, you, as an individual should have a unique way of performing this task. A lot of owners will simply adjust the chain

to where they think it should be, then load the bike with their weight and inspect the tightness by reaching down and tugging on the chain. To view a good page on chain adjustment and lubrication click on the picture.

Chain Removal

I have removed many a riveted link chain with whatever kind of grinder I've had available. Fastest is a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder, next is a Dremel tool, and last but still effective is a cheapo 3 inch grindstone in a drill. Grind both rivet ends down flush with the sideplate on any link, then pry the sideplate off with a screwdriver, and the chain is open at that point.
Others have a more brutish method, which involves no grinding; with a slim cold chisel between the inner and out plates, smash the outer plate off with the largest hammer presently available. This doesn't do the sprocket any good, but you're changing them too, right? RIGHT???
And then for the textbook method: go buy a chain breaker tool and follow the enclosed instructions. For all the ka-billions of tools I own, I don't have one of these and have never really found the need for one.
I recommend keeping the old ground off sideplate, and drilling the two holes a tad larger. This is perfect for placing over the new sideplate and squashing it on evenly with a clamp or vise-grip plier. The old plate keeps the new one nicely lined up with the pins, and provides the clearance necessary to set the sideplate onto the pins without having the pins get fouled up on the pads of the clamp/V-grips.
If a clip style master link will be used on the new chain, make sure the open end of the clip faces in the opposite direction of rotation to the chain. This prevents it from being knocked off in the event that it snags on something. A dab of RTV silicone sealant directly onto the installed clips ensures that it stays put, although I've never had one come off by it's own accord. Others have, however, and felt better with the added security.
(See Mazz's write up on Norwegian Racing Twine in the Featured Authors section of this site for more about this.)
The rivet type links will need the pins peened over. This is easily done by holding a heavy weight (say, the head of a sledgehammer?) on the factory peened side of the link, and mushrooming the open side with a hammer. The pins need be upset only slightly, as even if they become one or two thousands of an inch larger than the hole in the sideplate, there's no way it'll come off. Again, this can be done most effectively with the aforementioned chain breaker tool.
Then wash your hands, because they'll be particularly greasy, and go have a beer!
Thanks to Joe Megyes for this write up. I might try removing and installing my own chain in the near future. For now though I am a bit leery because of a particularly long, ugly night that I spent with my V45, a big red neck, a hacksaw, a mini sledgehammer, and a cold chisel. But, that's another story...

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BACK TO FJMODS SITE

	Valve Timing Tutorial
	Any high school gear head knows that Competition Cams doesn't do bike stuff.
So, why include a link to their page on a site about bikes? Well, in short they have some pretty smart cookies working for them. One of them did a great write up on how valve timing actually work in terms that you and I can understand. Click on the image to see it.

	Cam Shafts
	If your intention is to build a monster FJ head work is the place to start. One can start by smoothing up the casting marks and installing a more aggressive cam shaft. Thousands of dollars can be spent here. The final stop is to flow bench the head and install lighter valves and and very aggressive cam. Where you go with this up to you and your wallet.

	Piston Kits
	This is the ultimate way to get more out of your machine. For most it is just a starting point on the road to building a bike that eats up straight pieces of pavement like they were candy. The fact that the FJ has been a very popular chassis for building drag racing machines has kept the availability of engine parts very diverse. Piston kits for the FJ range in size from 1188cc's to 1314cc's with other options for increasing the displacement even more.

	Clutch
	Clutch Slave Rebuild: Complete instructions are available through FJ1100.com.

	Clutch Modifications: The FJ's clutch is somewhat lacking in it's stock configuration. It is common for it to slip especially in the case of higher mileage FJ's. One of the most common fixes is to add a second spring to the stock configuration.

Another common, slightly more complex, modification can be had by installing a kit by APE. See the parts page for contact info and parts pricing.

You will find advice for rebuilding the master cylinder and bleeding the lines on the Brakes & Suspension page.

	Oil Coolers
	The standard replacement for the stock FJ cooler is the 15 row unit by Earl's. There have been many discussions about other potential choices including using automotive coolers. It has been decided that this is the best choice. Though, I believe that an automotive option was arrived at, I cannot say how that has gone in the long run. The 15 row cooler fits in the same area as the stock unit therefore, leaving the same frontal area of the engine open to air flow. This is important, as the cooling fins on the motor do a lot to dissipate heat.

	Chain & Sprockets
	Though determination has been made that the DID 530 ZVM is the best choice available for a long lasting drive chain., the choice of which sprockets to use is many times a matter of personal preference or brand loyalty. The nut that holds the front sprocket on the countershaft is 36mm. You will need to know this if you want to change your own chain and sprockets. See below for a proven method to remove the old chain.




Aluminum Sprockets
Though, there was a bunch of bickering on this topic most of the folks that responded agreed that steel is the way to go. 6061-T6 Aluminum (Highest grade, heat treated) per AMS 4127 Tensile Strength - 45 ksi Yield Strength - 39 ksi Rockwell - B60 AISI 1010 Steel Hot Rolled (Cheapest Grade Available) (AMS 5042, 5062) Tensile Strength - 44 ksi Yield Strength - 24 ksi Rockwell B64 AISI 1020 Hot rolled carbon steel TS = 65 ksi YS = 43 ksi AISI 1030 plain carbon steel, cold drawn TS = 87 ksi YS = 74 ksi The conclusion is that the 6061-T6 is no better than the cheapest steel available. A 7075-T6 aluminum is significantly better (83 Tensile, 73 yield, B88 Rockwell) but is easily matched or surpassed by most steels. I'm sure that keeping the chain properly lubricated is so much more important that this discussion is a moot point. [Andy Pugh & Rick W.]
If one follows "conventional wisdom", and changes sprockets and chains at the same time, and both the typical steel, and aluminum sprocket "lasts" the life of a chain, it would seem that tensile strength isn't much of a factor. If both sprockets provide satisfactory service for 20,000 miles, and are then replaced, the fact that one has twice the tensile strength of the other, isn't important, right??) This still leaves aluminum with a slight weight advantage. Now maybe some riders will notice, and appreciate, a few ounces of less unsprung weight in the arse end of a 570 lb street bike, but I for one, cannot. Since steel sprockets are generally less costly than aluminum ones, for the FJ I'm sticking with steel. Some may think that aluminum looks purtier than steel, others, like me, think that beauty lies in the (lower) price of the steel sprockets. [Mazz] I might be able to talk myself in to using the 7075-T6 aluminum sprockets from Sprocket Specialties but, that is sort of a foolish view when you consider that the high grade aluminum sprockets are much more expensive than the high grade steel. I would not be doing it for the weight savings, that's for sure. It would be an aesthetic choice on my part and nothing more. The bottom line is that steel makes more sense on the FJ.



Interesting Link
	This page shows how using a gear & chain arrangement for final drive can improve BHP and torque loss at the rear. I do not know if any of these products are available to the public sector.

Chain Lube
There are two schools of thought when it comes to chain lube. The first recommends the usage of a Scott Oiler with 90 weight gear lube or even more sticky oils such as chain saw lubricant. The majority vote is here. The low maintenance is a very attractive thing. This system is said to work very well. It extends chain life and is hassle free. The second school of thought uses products from a spray can. These products require a lot more attention to get good results. Chain Wax is not really an oil it is more of a sealer. It does not leave the sticky residue that traditional chain lubes do. It also is not for use in the rain. It washes off leaving the chain to rust. This is a fine product but, you must take care to clean and dry your chain if it gets wet. Other traditional products are fine as long as you take the time to clean up after them. I, personally, use PJ1 with good results. The solvent of choice for clean up is WD40.

Chain Adjustment
	The manual lists one prescribed method for chain adjustment on the FJ. How they arrived at this one proper way to complete this task, we may never know. The fact is that everyone and their gear weighs a unique amount. Most people find the Yamaha recommended adjustment to be too loose. This is probably because they loaded the bike to it's maximum recommended amount when they came up with their procedure for adjustment. The reason for this is that the swing arm levers against the chain causing it to tighten with additional weight and suspension travel. Therefore, you, as an individual should have a unique way of performing this task. A lot of owners will simply adjust the chain
to where they think it should be, then load the bike with their weight and inspect the tightness by reaching down and tugging on the chain. To view a good page on chain adjustment and lubrication click on the picture.



Chain Removal
I have removed many a riveted link chain with whatever kind of grinder I've had available. Fastest is a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder, next is a Dremel tool, and last but still effective is a cheapo 3 inch grindstone in a drill. Grind both rivet ends down flush with the sideplate on any link, then pry the sideplate off with a screwdriver, and the chain is open at that point. Others have a more brutish method, which involves no grinding; with a slim cold chisel between the inner and out plates, smash the outer plate off with the largest hammer presently available. This doesn't do the sprocket any good, but you're changing them too, right? RIGHT??? And then for the textbook method: go buy a chain breaker tool and follow the enclosed instructions. For all the ka-billions of tools I own, I don't have one of these and have never really found the need for one. I recommend keeping the old ground off sideplate, and drilling the two holes a tad larger. This is perfect for placing over the new sideplate and squashing it on evenly with a clamp or vise-grip plier. The old plate keeps the new one nicely lined up with the pins, and provides the clearance necessary to set the sideplate onto the pins without having the pins get fouled up on the pads of the clamp/V-grips. If a clip style master link will be used on the new chain, make sure the open end of the clip faces in the opposite direction of rotation to the chain. This prevents it from being knocked off in the event that it snags on something. A dab of RTV silicone sealant directly onto the installed clips ensures that it stays put, although I've never had one come off by it's own accord. Others have, however, and felt better with the added security. (See Mazz's write up on Norwegian Racing Twine in the Featured Authors section of this site for more about this.) The rivet type links will need the pins peened over. This is easily done by holding a heavy weight (say, the head of a sledgehammer?) on the factory peened side of the link, and mushrooming the open side with a hammer. The pins need be upset only slightly, as even if they become one or two thousands of an inch larger than the hole in the sideplate, there's no way it'll come off. Again, this can be done most effectively with the aforementioned chain breaker tool. Then wash your hands, because they'll be particularly greasy, and go have a beer! Thanks to Joe Megyes for this write up. I might try removing and installing my own chain in the near future. For now though I am a bit leery because of a particularly long, ugly night that I spent with my V45, a big red neck, a hacksaw, a mini sledgehammer, and a cold chisel. But, that's another story...