Lobouche to Gorak Shap

9th May, 17 000 feet, 5130 metres

Even the porridge tasted bad...

Last night I was twice up to the loo. At this height going to the loo is a major undertaking - and it is 25 yards away from the lodge.

Because of the cold you have to dress up very warmly before you can go out, virtually piling everything on.

We are in fact at the sort of height where the long johns that we felt embarrassed buying in Marks & Spencer come into their own as sleepwear and emergency daywear.

And if it smells a bit, who cares? We all think the same way. Warmth is the new God.

But I had no appetite for breakfast. Even the porridge tasted bad...

What I didn’t want to admit was that there was something wrong with me. I struggled out, none too enthusiastically.

Nuptse towers above a sick me

And then followed the wretched, really wretched journey to Gorak Shap (our highest overnight stop, where we are based for 2 nights for our attempts on Kala Pattar and Base Camp).

I think the journey is supposed to take about 2 hours but it took us 4 or more. And it was all due to me. I was the person who was hanging back, who was begging for rests, who was feeling really rather sorry for myself.

When we arrived at another freezing dormitory lodge, I simply unpacked my sleeping bag and got into it. I had no interest in the rest of the world, nor in plans, itineraries or whatever. I just wanted to go to sleep and wake up feeling better. I was convinced that I had Guardia and that was what was making me weak. My colleagues Sherpa Dawa and Colin saw it differently. They diagnosed altitude sickness (events were to prove them right).

Take this half tablet of Diamox now and the other half last thing at night, they said. I didn’t believe them, but I did as I was told, rolled over and managed to catch up on some sleep during the day and even get a good overnight sleep.

I had not realised that by going to bed I had used up the time reserved for ascending Kala Pattar. Next day was meant for the journey to Base Camp and then a rapid descent from the 11th to the 14thwas intended in order to get the plane from Lukla to Kathmandu on the morning of the 15th. Whatever the logistics, I needed the rest.

Forward to: It had to be Kala Pattar | Home | Contents