Singapore & Malaysia 2000 |
Our first trip to the far east took us to Singapore for four days then a coach tour up the west coast of Malaysia, via Malacca, Kuala Lumpur, the Cameron Highlands and finally to Penang where we put our feet up for a few days.
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As a small busy island Singapore's importance was, and still is, its geographical situation. In terms of shipping tonnage moved, Singapore waters are the busiest in the world. The docks here seem to stretch as far as the eye can see. |
With land space under pressure, there is constant redevelopment, and on a grand scale too. The picture above is taken from the cable car which runs from the top of Mount Faber to the island of Sentosa. Mt Faber is the last hill on Singapore - all the others have been taken down and placed in the sea to provide further land for building. Visitors who were last here several decades ago would find much has changed, few older buildings survive, but the redevelopment has been done with great attention to quality of life and the architectural and planning skills employed are clearly of the highest order. Historically important buildings are preserved although their uses may well have changed and provide a refreshing change of approach from the 'time-capsule' concept we sometimes see in the UK.
This is a modern, vibrant city and many of the world's large companies have offices here. Singapore is clean, no graffiti and almost crime-free, the whole place exudes confidence and energy. Although primarily a business man's environment, there is plenty here for the tourist.
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This happy couple, whoever they are, had little trouble finding a photogenic spot! |
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On the island of Sentosa, all may not be quite what it seems. This extraordinary 'tree' is actually an assembly of hanging baskets. |
The Merlion looks out over the island. The former military hospital here (at which one of Bill's aunts is certain to have worked) is now a museum dedicated to Singapore's heritage. |
This is a place to which we shall return and bring the rest of the family. Our first experience of the east has been exhilarating.
And so by coach, over the causeway which joins Singapore to Malaysia.
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Huge tracts of land are given over to oil-palm plantations. The cultivation system ensures more or less continuous harvesting throughout the year. The flowers and fruits develop at the crown of the tree. |
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Rubber was once a major product. However, it seems to be less important these days - perhaps due to the advent of synthetic materials. We did visit a rubber plantation and saw trees being tapped. |
Much of Malaysia is given over to jungle and/or mountains which make development un-commercial. Consequently, there is a good deal of high-rise building here as well. With the additional attraction of tax-free zones, many of the world's semiconductor and computer hardware manufacturers have plants here.
There was sometimes a stark contrast between the huge modern factories and the small family basket-making concerns. Although when it comes to re-cycling, I guess the bamboo basket would be hard to beat! Bamboo is used in huge quantities, but is a fully sustainable crop and most of its working is still done by traditional manual methods. |
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Kuala Lumpur, as Singapore, is a very modern city and no expense has been spared here when it comes to architect's fees. The KL tower sits well up the leader board of the world's tallest buildings and visitors can take the lift to the observation floor. Even from this somewhat 'edge-on' view (taken from the KL tower), the Petronas 'twin towers' building is unmistakable. The lowest 8 floor are given over to shops and it was here we finally realised that the 3 hours of tape we'd brought for the VCR were not going to be enough. Fortunately there is a specialist supplier here! Our hotel, the Shangri-La, is just visible at the bottom of the picture. |
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Although this view of a playing field and cricket pavilion might be seen almost anywhere in England, this particular one is in the centre of KL. Some years ago, the field was dug up, a huge underground car park, shops and restaurants were installed and then the playing field re-laid on top. |
New towns and villages spring up everywhere and integrate homes, workplaces, schools shops and so on. People from the surrounding areas are attracted to these new developments and so leave their more traditional lifestyles behind. Work in a modern factory is more rewarding than some traditional activities and we saw ample evidence of the jungle retaking rice fields which are no longer worked.
And so on we went:
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Here is the grave of an obviously well-to-do citizen. The design represents the human pelvic bone structure - presumably the cognoscenti can tell if this is the grave of a man or a woman. There is growing pressure on land for burial grounds. |
We visited many temples (including one dedicated to, and occupied by, pit vipers - Liz was braver than Bill when it came to handling these creatures!) and some historic POW sites.
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Here are the steps to one temple that we never did quite get to! |
We spent some time at the Ming factory and watched the hand production processes used to make these magnificent pieces. No printing, transfers or stencilling here! |
A visit to a Batik factory to watch the processes involved in this fascinating art (and to buy a few colourful items) and then on to the Royal Selangor pewter works. We have video footage of Liz trying her hand at applying a hammer finish to a tankard!
And now we begin our journey which will takes us 6,000 feet up into the Cameron Highlands. The climate at that altitude is just like the best of an English summer. Warm, but not too hot during the day and cool - even chilly - in the evening and at night. Roses, geraniums, chrysanthemums, busy-lizzies, indeed all our familiar garden flowers thrive here. In previous times a recuperation hospital provided respite for those needing rest.
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But first, in the foothills we visit a tea plantation, seen here with its processing building and plantation workers' accommodation in the distance. Sadly the picturesque tea-pickers are gone - replaced by hedge-trimmers and other mechanical means of harvesting. |
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Much higher up and now deep in the jungle, we encounter people of the Orang Asli. The Orang Asli are somewhat nomadic, and so their possessions are few. Until recently they would have been un-clothed. This old man - probably in his late 50s - is happy to demonstrate his skill with a blowpipe. A monkey, or other small animal, less than 20 yards away would be lucky to escape his lethal dart. |
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Just below the plateau at the summit we stop for lunch at this startling place. Originally built by a retiring British army major the house, now renamed 'The Lakehouse' (because of its view over a rather brown lake), has been adapted as an hotel, restaurant and bar. If the major had nothing and no-one to come home to, it's easy to imagine he had everything here he could have wanted and we doubt if he could have afforded this in the UK. |
Left alone for even a short time, the jungle will swallow up any man-made artefact. At a distance, the jungle and rain forests have an awesome apparent calm and beauty; just a few feet into it and it becomes a fearsome and inhospitable place.
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This is 'Kelly's Castle'. Long before it was finished, the place was abandoned and the jungle soon engulfed it. It might never have been seen again but for a nearby road-construction project. Now, efforts are being made to remove the jungle from its structure and to restore it to the state at which it is thought it was left. Close inspection of the size of the tree-trunks etc suggests that this is not an easy task. Left much longer, doubtless the jungle would have reduced the whole thing to rubble. |
And so finally to Penang. An island connected to the main land by a very impressive bridge. Our hotel (The Rasa Sayang) offers every facility, but we ate all our meals, including breakfast, in a selection of the many local restaurants. The only danger here is being struck by a coconut!
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Here each person can have a 3ft long bamboo stick with a red flag on it bearing the word 'Service'. Waving this stick will bring a barman on his bicycle to take your order, then deliver your drinks - topping up your ice-bucket in the process. This is a holiday resort and the visitors mainly British.
The last major update to this site was in May 2002 when Liz's Inner Wheel page was added.
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