We Climbed The Normal Route on the Mont Aiguille in August 2003; The peak is the first large climb that Alice and myself have attempted in France, and is reputed to be the birth of Alpine Climbing. 

Location -  Near the Vercors, France

Camping Location/ Parking - There are two car parks that can be used, the first is just beyond the village of Richardiere and is clearly signed from the gravel track.  The second (which we found later) is further up the gravel track, which crosses  a concrete ford (dry in the summer).  It is possible to camp/ bivi in this area to allow for an early start, we chose to sleep in the car at the lower car park.0.

Map, Grid Reference - 

Guide Book Used - le guide du Mont Aiguille, ISBN: 2-9100-6008-X

Grade - III+  (PD)        Height - 250m  (825ft)      Number of Pitches - 

Equipment Used - As usual we carried far to much equipment, all that is required is two 50m, 9mm ropes, belay device and decender (if you don't like abseiling of your belay plate), 4 extenders, a few slings and a very small selection of nuts and other items of protection.  A set of cows tails are very useful we used a short sling with a large crab for the cable sections. A HELMET IS ESSENTIAL!!

This is a long day out (well it is if your as unfit as we were!) the large part of the day is spent walking in and out from the car park with an altitude gain of around 750m, we found walking poles useful, a good supply of water and energy food was essential.  We wore light walking boots which we also climbed in, a good pair of approach shoes would have been just as good. 

Approach - Once at the top car park head into the woods on the marked trail, just as you enter there is a sign pointing right onto a smaller track, then just keep following the the track which zig-zags all over the place, the approach from the bottom car park takes about 3 hours at a steady pace.

The Route - Do not expect to be the only climbers on this route in the summer!  it a popular route with many people paying to be guided, as a result the route finding is not difficult the climb starts on the top of the large screed slope to the left of the memorial plaque by a large metal ring, these rings are clearly visible on the route along with a few newer bolts.

The first 2 pitches were lead using traditional lead and second methods, this will lead to a another metal ring from where the traverse starts, we lead this again resulting in a belay in the middle of the traverse, it proved more effective to to climb this and the next 2 sections alpine style moving together with cows tails on the cable or with at least one runner between you.  We shortened the rope to about 25m for these sections.  The traverse leads to a steep section (with Cable) over into a saddle behind a large wall of rock, from here a short decent (easily climbed with a metal ring for assistance) into a loose gully, this gully is climbed first on the right and then the left before coming back right (follow the bolts/ metal rings, this section is more of a scramble) to a narrow level section under a steep wall, follow this to the next cable which is above you from the large ledge.

Climb up to the cable and use this to move left through a narrow gap above the previous steep wall, continue to follow the good ledge to the start of the final gully (bolts).

The final gully has a cable fitted to about 3/4 of it is about 6ft wide and appears to go on for ever! Personally I found that the cable got in the way and didn't use it with my cows tail.  There is about 3 1/2, 50m pitches to climb here and this section is the hardest climbing, with 3 small over hangs to climb over (easy if your long legged as you can easily bridge) the climbing is no harder than severe but remember that you will be tired. where the cable ends the gully opens out and there are various ways to the top. 

Descent Routes - The gully for the start of the decent route is marked with a round plaque and the first section can be down climbed reasonably easily despite its appearance, from the bottom of this short gully follow the well worn path down into the gully.  Be warned this does become steep and very loose! we were last down and therefore did not have to worry about falling rock from above.  

As you descend into the gully there are a few new eye bolts generally on the right hand side which can be used for abseiling if required (we found this easier and possibly a little quicker). When this gully narrows to about 15ft wide there will be a set of abseil bolts on the right, there is also a set just below these on the left hand wall above a scooped ledge (all these bolts appear new) this is the first official abseil, thread one rope and descend the wall into the next gully (25m).  This gully is easily descended to the bottom, the gully will turn right where you will see a metal frame built into the rock and a set of abseil bolts on your right.  This is the big 50m abseil and requires a double rope (although there are bolts on the way down that could allow you to you one 50m rope doubled but I would avoid this if possible).  This abseil descends into a chasm and is welcome relief from the sun and moves diagonally onto the obvious ledge/ path.  It is advisable that the last person down ensures that the rope passes over the previously mentioned frame to ensure that the rope does not jam when pulled through.

Walk through the chasm and abseil down the last 5m drop from bolts on either side (your choice) to exit.  Finally follow the path left (as you are looking into the rock) up a small slope/ very easy scramble, and then down into another short corridor/ rift until you reach the top of the screed slope. 

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