Saturday 30th October 2004

It all started early in the morning and seamed to go well, Keith picked me up at around 7am and I quickly fed the cats and left the information for Dan to to feed them whilst I was away, off we went to Exeter where we had arranged to meet up with Bob and Kevin at xxxx's house.

Just as we went in for an early morning cup of tea Bob and Kevin showed up and the toilet was used by all, well it would have been but Bob had managed to lock the door from the inside whist being outside resulting in the invisible man being locked in and refusing to come out, therefore a convenient corner of the car park had to be used by some.

All went well on the 4hr road trip to the airport (other than Kevin getting lost in the services) and we even managed to grab a McDonalds breakfast after 10am, the road works were kind and didn't cause any delays and thanks to Bobs driving no wrong turns were made.  However do not mention Pink Elephants to Bob as you might wake the Beast, to say that the signs to the car park could have been better would be just.

After check in and a beer it was time to board the flight and off we went on a fine sunny day, only to land the other end in a Thunder Storm whilst driving to our destination.    

Sunday 31st October 2004

We woke to a fine and sunny morning and we were up and out early with no breakfast and limited supplies for lunch it was off to La Poltrona for the first climbing of the week, spirits were high and it was only a short drive and a even shorter walk into the crag were we were pleased to find that we we only the second group to arrive.  We quickly racked up and started on the easier routes to the right of this magnificent lump of limestone.  Me and Kevin started with a 5a, then a 5b before moving onto a route called "Hey Jude" 5c which was a little tougher and determined the standard for the rest of the week.  There was a little rule  set for the trip that the first person to lead 6a bought the next round of drinks and I after "Hey Jude" I thought that this would be a good challenge as 5c appeared to be at the top end of my ability.

Between us all we generally managed to swapped routes, giving advise and information to help the others. This included Bob attempting "Hey  Jude" and creating what he called a more acceptable way of completing the crux as the line of bolts to moving diagonally to the left was far too safe and the line directly to the tree was far purer.  This was a comment that Keith also agreed with, but was not officially the listed route!  

The climbing was going well and Myself and Kevin had just completed "Cime Tempestive" a nice little over hang on the slab and Bob was all set to lead when it started to rain, Bob proceeded declaring that it was just our imagination and I decided after watching Bob that a vantage point just further up the bank would make for a good photo when Keith followed.  After climbing a wet boulder and falling into a rowan bush cutting myself in more than one place (at least no one was watching me!) in the process, I was in position for a good shot, only to hear Keith shout "take out the gear I'm not going to do this one its too wet now"

With that we packed up and went in search of food.  The apartment was right on the sea front with the Blues Bar just down the road, being a Sunday the supermarkets etc were closed and it was decided that food as well as alcohol should also be purchased.

Routes Climbed this day at La Poltrona were;

Monday 1st November 2004

Raining, cave, empty on arival, packed when left, mad english showing off, 

Routes Climbed this day at Biddirisottai were;

Tuesday 2nd November 2004

I woke up late, Kevin was still fast asleep and I decided to get up and leave him, Bob and Keith was no where to be found and seeing that the kitty for the shopping was still in the bowl assumed that they had gone for a drive some where, it was raining, not just gentle pitter patter rain this was more like 'you should be wearing your hard hat' type rain, with shorts and Gortex jacket I set off for the shops for some food.  On my return I found all the rest sat at the table scoffing them selves with food some how I had managed to miss them coming back in the car and instead had walked to the shops and back on the roads (which had become ankle deep rivers).  All was not lost however as Keith and Bob had neglected to get some essentials that I had, i.e. Crisps, Chocolate, and puddings.

It rained, and rained, and rained some more, by about 4pm (well we thought it was about 4pm but that's another story) we decided that sod this lets go to Fuili (we had looked at this area on Sunday in the rain and thought that a slab with the low grades on would be climbable in the rain)

Routes Climbed this day at Fuili were;

Wednesday 3rd November 2004

Routes Climbed this day at Budinetto were;

Thursday 4th November 2004

This was by far the best days climbing of the week, although considering the weather we were having a good trip, the sun was shining and Kevin was slapping on the suntan lotion intending to make the most of it.  Bags were packed and the 10 min drive in the car was filled with anticipation on arrival the ground was still wet by the limestone was baked dry and in perfect condition, it was considered that the conditions were to good for the 'Routes for Babies' and the steep mud slope was descended to the bottom of the cliff.  It was planned to have lunch on the beach below us with a cooling dip in the sea, but looking at the sea conditions this would involve a rather large beating from the waves and was consider not to be a wise move (and the thought of Keith and Bob in spedo's was a little off putting.

The first climbs went well with the two parties interchanging routs and leads and even finding routes that were not listed. Fuili is located in a valley with a number of crags dotted throughout, some of which are easy and others that start at 7a so at this point me and Kevin went to a different location to Bob and Keith.  I had been looking at a route called Ferry 2, it was 6a and short, with the apparent difficulty near the start, when we got to the base of the route there were a number of other climbers in the area and I proceed to quiz them on my proposed route, the advise was good and I racked up!

The first move was essential in my mind, it involved standing on a large rock moved into position and jumping upwards with arm fully stretched trying to clip the first bolt, on the 3rd attempt this was done and I felt much better physiologically anyway. I was right, the first moves were the crux balanced on a rounded shinny (the only polished hold in Sardinia that I found!!) toe hold and a 2 finger lay back a difficult hope lead to what looked like another handhold, it was but it was like putting your hand into a dogs mouth, it was sharp and bit!! Shocked by the pain I let go! (well I am a Bloke!) I knew what to expect now and tried again, success and I moved onto the slab struggled to clip the next bolt and tried to rest I was totally pumped and a little un-nerved.  The slab was fine but the overhang above required some aggression and involved me having to move fast in order mot to tire, the lower of was reached and Kevin started to lower me down, "you better take out the runner Jay, I think I might struggle with this one" Kevin was climbing really well this week and had slowly gone through the grades leading and I insisted that he give it a go. For those that know Kevin is has a certain theory that he applies to his climbing, especially when on a top rope! 'If you can't reach it leap for it' and this certainly applied here, he was bouncing around like Tigger on steroids, but with out success.  We moved on to find Bob and Keith

Routes Climbed this day at Fuili were;

Friday 5th November 2004

Routes Climbed this day at La Poltrona were;

Saturday 6th November 2004