If you don't have it all yet, then you may wish to add a few flourishes:
Build your own stair lift via my website.
Build your own computer via my website.
Build your own motorcycle via my website.
Build your own van via my website.
Of course, if you have a car, van (RV) and motorbike, then you must have a trike too! Build your own trike via my website.
Some people like pixies at the bottom of their garden, or perhaps you would prefer a wind tunnel complete with computers, via my website - where else?
Want the perfect ornate iron garden fence? then learn to weld via my website.
When you leave home, learn to hike outdoors via my website.
So you can appreciate it all - build your own spectacles via can you guess?

I can also include build your own wind generator, solar heating and alternative energies if enough requests.
I can resume my work on a maths, English, science and technology course for 11 to 16 yr olds plus university entrance. Many parents are pulling their kids out of British schools as standards fall. It's getting so bad, that 'British' politicians are touting the French Baccalaureate as a replacement to present mess of British education standards.

Overview.
Why you should do it yourself:
Let's face it, Britain has gone to the dogs. Finding honest crafts-people who can do an honest days work has long gone.

This web page is here because too few can find truly skilled people. Skilled people are all around, we are simply not getting the jobs.
The author has a four year engineering apprenticeship, a B.Ed. technology teaching degree, a B.Sc. Science degree, was a designer for the nuclear industry and designed and built high pressure steam heating systems, a M.I.Plant.Eng. (factories and industrial plant.) City and Guilds Mechanical Engineering Technicians parts 1, 2 and 3 and reasonable plumber and electrician for over twenty years. You guessed it, I'm honest, white, male and - I'm unemployed.

For evil to thrive, it only needs honest people to say nothing. I've been told by a Plymouth Council careers advisor that my qualifications are not as good as a twenty-week GNVQ trainee plumber. Another professional careers councillor, (also paid by the taxpayer) told me to leave my qualifications off my CV if I want a job in Plymouth. Why bother with a real education ?
With more letters after my name than the headmaster, I've even been told I'm 'not suitable' for part time lab technician in my local school. Despite being told I'd make a great teacher, a B.Ed and a B.Sc, I've yet to get a job in Plymouth after twenty years of trying. Evidently I don't know the right people, nor have the right handshake for teaching in this dodgy city. My M.P. Linda Gilroy (New Labour) has failed to reply to this complaint. Her silence says a lot.
Complaining to politicians and councillors and their puppeteers is, as we all know, a waste of time. Just enough spin, smiles and tokenism to remain on Blair's gravy train. Each MP now costs the taxpayer a total of 425,000 quid a year. Each (B)eurocrat MEP costs over a million a year. Gov't NAO figures. (You thought plumbers were a rip-off !)

Shaking hands in strange ways does not make a craftsperson, neither does a piece of paper. The clues are all about us, from rocketing council taxes, to wobbly London Bridges, poorly maintained schools and deliberate traffic congestion planing. The debate in Parliament on 11-4-03, patently highlights the plight, yet nothing gets done other than hot air and spin.

I'm like so many in Britain applying for jobs being Anglo-Saxon, male, over-qualified and over forty, but statistically unlikely to find work. Yes, this sounds like whinging, but offers insight to the disgraceful treatment of many decent qualified workers in Britain today.

If you are in the same plight, then you have to make what you can from Britain's mess and Do It Yourself. There is no point complaining to politicians, but to help those who are honest. Hence this website for the real people of Britain. - The lowly classes who are worked to death, and the middle classes who are taxed to death. While the scum float to the top.

I help ordinary people maintain their houses, cars, computers, homework and such like. Ask around, there is an increasingly vast army of exceptionally skilled people far better than me going to waste. Electricians, plumbers, teachers, mathematicians, computer systems analysts, programmers and aero engineers. Mature British males who cannot find work.

What idiots say good qualified staff are hard to find? People are beginning to realise that the only difficult person to find is a competent personnel manager.

If Britain needs good engineers and scientists now, the next generation will be even worse.
A quarter of those teaching maths in our schools don't have A level maths. Many universities now have to run courses to bring school leavers up the minimum entry standard. Many students are now called 'oven ready' graduates. There are also many horror stories of senior university lecturers who don't know their subjects.
If half of Britain goes to university, then even we British cannot massage the figures to ensure that half the population is well above average. For half the country, degree standards must now be suitable for just an average intellect, which is not what people expect in a degree.
Degrees for all means it's no longer of any real worth.

Many honest people also won't accept debt as part of education, discouraging the remaining honest and sensible people from universities. No one wants massive debt - sod that! Graduates may have to become bankers, politicians or lawyers to pay this off. Where are the doers - the scientists, engineers and inventors we need to compete in the big world. Now cover this stupidity with ridiculous government paperwork and managers so we can no longer see the wood for the trees. Ask the doctors, nurses, teachers. The road to hell is now paved with good intentions Blairs plague of bureaucrats and their paperwork.

Although plenty of people can still do a damn good job, Britain now demands paperwork. My 4 year engineering apprenticeship is worth nothing according to the Jobcentre, unlike my two-week GNVQ5 in business studies despite no training nor exam!

Welcome to modern Britain, a country run by inadequate qualifications supplied by inadequate politicians to create inadequate workers. A country where a hairdresser got GNVQ's for hairdressing awarded to his pet cat and rabbit.
We only get what we deserve. I feel sorry for the next generation - they know no better.

If you are a personnel manager, then re-assess why you cannot find qualified staff. Get off your fat arse and do this now. See also my webpage on unemployment.

So - next time you need someone to do a skilled job, think twice. Will you trust a GNVQ or even a degree, or is there some way to ensure the person is competent? In modern Britain, the best person may be you.

Typical examples.

Gas. A decade ago, a British Gas fitter inspected our broken central heating and said spares are no longer available, but they could fit a new system for a thousand pounds. The faulty part was the pilot light thermocouple, which was available locally 'off the shelf' and cost under five pounds ! I fitted it in half an hour. Eight years later, the timer failed. Yes, I fitted a replacement for under thirty pounds by simply following the instructions in the box, in under an hour. The whole system has been recently checked out by a trusted, reliable and accredited gas fitter and passed with flying colours. We are no longer with British Gas, nor trust their adverts.

Plumbing. I have had to sort out the terrible plumbing of such 'experts' who did our house, leaving an inability to bleed the hot water system, water hammer and many other problems. I now do all my own plumbing and have had no problems since.

Electrics. I have had to go around as a house for sale was being rewired, having to fix the many problems of the 'professional' electrician who trained as a baker.

Roofing. I had to fix the leaking roof after paying lots of money for an expert who failed many times. I now do all the roofing repairs, as the incompetent freemason 'craftsman' (he was certainly not free and not much of a mason), who fitted the roof has yet to fix the main problem after fifteen years. He also repairs schools, no wonder that many schools are in poor repair. (Handshakes before ability?) People are gradually learning a lot about the prevalence of poor craftsmanship and how to avoid it in future.

Cars. The garage which had serviced a car for twenty years said the rubber carburettor diaphragm for a Vauxhall Viva (a wonderfully straightforward car) was 'no longer available'. I found the a component locally for two pounds in a few hours and fitted it in five minutes. Same for the brake master cylinder when the brakes failed, as the mechanic had failed to top up the brake fluid for ten years. So much for all those service charges and their GNVQ in vehicle maintenance. I cleaned, inspected and flushed the brakes through in two hours and it passed the MOT with flying colours.

Computers. Many friends have given up sending back their computers to gather dust when things go wrong, especially when five minutes and a smidgen of knowledge can fix them. The biggest shop (well known) reinstalled a friends windows OS three times before they realised the memory chip needed pushing back into place. He needlessly lost all his work. I tell people to build their own - it's not rocket science. If you want to build your own computer and install the software correctly and safely for half the cost, and ten times the reliability, then visit my website, same address as you found this page.

Money. Britain is getting dangerously polarised between rich and poor. Many people are now forced to move away from money based transactions, fed up with banking, predatory salesmen, parasitic lawyers and incompetent or corrupt politicians and pension schemes. If you have genuine skills, always offer to exchange them first.

Many are ripped-off by incompetent tradespeople. But the rich say, ' they must do it right or I get the lawyers in '. Fools - lawyers cannot make good craftsmen, never could, never will. A poor craftsman can only hope to fix the problems under threat of a law suit, praying it may work adequately first time. Many of us know better.

What do you call a personnel manager bleating about the lack of competent craftsmen ? - blind and deaf :(
What do you call a 'plumber' armed with a GNVQ and wrench? Potentially dangerous :(
What do you call a householder armed with a wrench? Potentially dangerous, but prepared to learn and intending do a good job :)

DIY.

DIY used to be a way to cut costs, but now it's often the only way to ensure the job's done properly.

BETTER STILL, it will be noticed that many problems can be solved not only cheaper, but also faster and far more reliably with DIY. This way, the reader usually has a lot more time on their hands to enjoy life and of course, more money to do so.
Booking a car into a garage, or waiting for a roofer or plumber, takes about three to twenty times longer than doing it yourself. Likewise the cost savings :)

Doing it yourself is not easy at first, but the main hurdle is a few proper tools and a little confidence.
But always remember that those who do these jobs are rarely the brightest light bulbs in the box and most merely wish to make loads of money. We have all seen the TV programmes on dodgy trades people. If they can fail to do a proper job, what have you to loose? (A few craftsmen are genuinely honest and enjoy such work.)
The theory is basic and the tools are minimal. The skills take some effort, but if not too sure, then once shown by a friend, the task is fairly straightforward.

If in doubt about soldering a copper pipe, simply go to your local DIY shop, buy a length of pipe, a small hacksaw, a selection of connections, solder, flux, emery cloth and a blow lamp. Then practice, to see just how easy it is. This may cost much less then the call-out fee of a plumber. Likewise for electrics, - buy a three pin plug socket and some copper wire, to see if you are up to it. It is not rocket science, although electrics can be dangerous.

Always try fixing a leaking tap, as there is nothing lost. If the plumber needs to be called, at least do so after you have made a stab at it. If other people can fix such problems, why can't you?
A nephew in London paid sixty quid for a tap washer to be replaced. I showed him how to do it and he said 'is that all there is to it?' He now has a basic plumbers repair tool kit and an electricians kit for under a tenner for his birthday. With this he could make a fortune in London. He will certainly save a fortune, which is the purpose of this web page.
Once you have done it, always show others, it's a social thing.

Let's face the truth, Britain has gone to the dogs. In an ideal world this web page should not be needed.
Therefore it is necessary to write this page for average people for simple household problems to avoid the enormous bill and ensure the job gets done properly. No call out fee, nor time wasted. No government spin, no sales waffle, no trade bullshit and certainly no conning for work not needed nor done.

Most people know the score. Competent craftsmen still exist, but not being able to find work, are reduced to writing about it. So, best wishes from me, and the many thousands of British craftsmen and engineering and science graduates who are on the dole.
Gizzajob.

How to fix a leaking tap.

Use your eyes. In our street, a modern housing unit has six water stop cocks outside in the pavement. None of the covers are neatly aligned, denoting the quality of the plumbing inside is also probably suspect. Use your eyes from the outset.
Even though you do not have a leaking tap at the moment, find this stop cock. Turn it shut and back open. Looking down on the handle, turn it clockwise to shut. Never force it tightly closed, nor open it fully until hard. It is a safety device, not a wrestling bout. If you cannot do this now, then you will have problems when you need to do so at a later date. You know why. If the access hole is covered in road dirt, then scoop it out with an old spoon.
If it is one of six in the pavement, yours should be clearly marked, but this is not common. Connect a cold water pipe with a hose leading out of a window, and allow a small tell-tale flow of water. Then check by turning off one stop cock at a time to find yours. Alternatively use a mobile phone and someone watching the tap indoors. If a close group of neighbours, get them together as soon as possible to find out which stop cock is which. Then mark this clearly in the hallway or entrance on a simple notice for the benefit of all. Alternatively mark each flat number in paint on the underside of each street flap. Perhaps add a notice on the communal entrance notice board.

If a tap leaks, it will probably be from a worn or damaged rubber sealing washer.
On COLD water taps, which are usually directly connected to the mains water, turn off the stop cock as mentioned above. Turn on the basin tap until the water stops, or is reduced to a trickle.
For HOT water taps, there may be an internal stop cock or valve inside the house to the header tank in the roof or a compact boiler system. Get to know your central hot water plumbing and ALWAYS switch off any hot water heater thermostat or timer. Turning off the hot water switch will ensure that if the hot water tank drains, the heater will not burn components.

Once the water is turned off, drain the water. It may still be flowing slowly after a while and should not be considered a problem if the flow is minimal and safely flowing down the sink.
On most HOT water systems, it is far preferable to simply remove the tap body quickly and plug the hole with a flannel or rag because the pressure is often quite low. This can get messy for a few seconds. This also keeps most of the hot water in your hot water tank system. Messy, but simple - and it's only water.
Opening up the tap.
Loosen the tap handle so a little water flows, this removes any internal forces inside the tap body. Remove the tap handle, probably held by a small screw above or under the handle or under a red or blue plastic cap. Place this small screw in the soap dish or stick it in the soap so it will not get lost ! If it falls down the sink, see U bend later. Remove the handle.
Unscrew any cosmetic cover, often a bell shaped cover. This may be tight, so use a sheet of rubber to increase grip. If an adjustable wrench is used, do not scratch the surface.
Underneath will be the central shaft with a small nut for the seal, and also the larger hexagon (or square) of the upper body. Undo the large hexagon in a counter clockwise direction when looking down on the tap.
ALWAYS grip the tap spout firmly when turning the central brass part, so the tap is not twisted and does not damage the under-sink pipework. Be careful, as very few taps are securely fitted in the basin, turning the body of the tap on the undersink pipework can cause leaks.
Preferred tool for this is the pipe wrench. The 'Stilson' is the classic brand name version and is self tightening as you pull harder on the handle.
Unscrew the upper body, then immediately stuff a cloth into the hole to reduce flow or splash if needed.

In many cases, the upper removable part of the valve (tap) will very stiff to remove from the body. To remove a difficult top, then fit the pipe wrench very securely in the upper part, then strike the handle of the wrench firmly with a hammer just a few times. When doing this, it is imperative not to damage any of the pipework or any ceramic bowl. The hammer should be giving a shock blow to the wrench, to shock the thread loose and thereby unstick it. The hammer block is NOT to turn the upper body, just to shock the thread loose. So go easily with the use of the hammer, as it is a very dangerous tool. One good sharp smack by the hammer onto the handle of the stilson is usually all that's needed to get the top turning.

Once opened, you will see that the shaft in the tap has a rubber washer fitted on a swivelling base collar. This rubber washer is often retained with a small nut. Remove the nut carefully, as the bronze components of older taps are often corroded.
Replace with a new rubber tap washer of the same size. If your replacement is of a slightly larger size, the new rubber can be shaped to a slightly smaller diameter, using a sharp knife, file, sandpaper, even in an emergency, a cheese grater or such like.
If the nut retaining the washer should break, then the rubber washer can be fitted with some contact adhesive glue and thus retained around the stub of the thread, until a new tap is purchased. If glued in place, then don't open the repaired tap too far, just allow a little water to flow, otherwise the temporarily glued rubber washer can be dislodged.

It is important to have the rubber washer away from the seal when replacing the tap body. If the handle had been screwed down, then when you refit the upper body, it will dangerously squeeze the washer too tight. So always refit the tap body with the tap handle in the open position.
As the body may have been tight, then it is preferable to add some 'thread tape' to the threads, to make it easier to repair next time. See later.

The photo opposite shows from top left to bottom right, a roll of thread tape, spare washers, a basin wrench, the components of a stripped tap, a small screwdriver, and a red 'stilson' wrench. The tools cost just one pound each.
The tap components from left to right are; the body with the large black nut on the lower thread which fits under the sink, rubber washer, washer holder, threaded spindle, upper body, chrome cover and handle.

While the tap is out, inspect for damage. The worst offender is the thread on the spindle, especially if people tend to over-tighten the tap. Loosely re-fit the handle and turn the shaft to inspect the thread. These threads will easily wear if the tap is tightened too hard and often. If in doubt, consider a replacement tap at a later date.
Check if any outer seal of the body if fitted, possibly a firm fibre washer. If damaged, a few turns of thread tape will ensure a seal.

Thread tape is a fine tape of polytetrafluroetheylene. (PTFE.) It is supplied on small reels like sticky tape, but is white and not adhesive, about 1/2 inch wide and available in any DIY shop for about 70 pence. Hold the reel of tape in one hand and roll it over the thread, such that it pulls itself gently onto the threads. A little tension while applying a few turns will allow the tape to be cut by simply pulling to stretch the tape with the thumb on the tape leaving a clean application.

When replacing, turn the shaft back into the housing as if the tap was fully open. If replaced with the shaft in the shut position, the upper body will not seat fully. Replace the tap components.
If a hot water system and using a rag to help slow down the flow, then get the upper part ready for a quick change over. The water flow will ensure there is no dirt in the tap. Screw down the upper body by hand, then lightly stop the flow to a trickle, the tighten the upper body. Then test the tap by using the handle to check it opens and shuts properly.

To repeat, ALWAYS slacken and tighten the upper body while holding onto the spout, to prevent the tap from turning on the sink or pipework.

Temporarily fit the handle and screw the tap closed. Turn on the water stop cock partially, to check the tap works as required. Turning on the stop cock partially will give full pressure, but limits the flow should anything be untoward. Check it works well. Check for no damage to the water pipes under the sink or basin. Then refit the cover and handle.
When all is well, fully turn on the stop cock. Check the tap works correctly. Look out for leaks.
Return any hot water thermostat or switch to normal.
Keep an eye on the tap for a few days.

On the shaft is a seal is a smaller hexagonal nut which compresses some packing around the shaft. If your tap handle is hard to turn, then it may be the packing. When the tap is out for repair, the shaft can be polished with some kitchen scouring pad and replaced, then the packing can be gradually tightened until it does not leak, but allows the tap to be used easily. You can also clean the shaft while the tap is in its normal working state, by removing the handle and unscrewing the seal and digging out the packing. Then the shaft can be scouted clean by using a pan scourer to smooth the shaft. The old packing may be replaced if not to bad. If the packing is very old, then you can easily use string, which is simply wound around the shaft, and then tightened into place. For a better form of packing, then waxing the string with a candle is preferred to reduce friction and improve waterproofing.

Modern taps may use ceramic components and like many modern things, are simply replaced without any attempt to repair them. Not exactly environmentally friendly, but ideal for money grabbing cowboy plumbers or fashion conscious consumers.

Possible problems.

If water keeps flowing while making the repair: As the stop cock is unlikely to fail as it is an all-metal item, the problem will probably be a large capacity hot water system which takes some time to drain. As many hot water systems only have the low pressure from the reservoir tank in the roof, then this can be stopped with a simple rag in the pipework. Try this by trying to stop the hot water by first stuffing a rag in the spout to see if you can get away with this shortcut. In such cases where a quick tap washer needs replacing, then it's often simpler to block the water flow from the tap body with a rag, rather than drain-down the whole hot water system. You may need a friend to keep the rag in place, or to use lots of rag and some string to keep it in place to restrict the flow.

Damaged tap internals. These are usually corrosion of the thread and possibly the sealing face on which the rubber seats. Repair is by replacement, although a new washer can often suffice until a replacement is available.

Leaking or distorted pipework is caused by the base of the tap turning while trying to remove the upper body. To repeat: It is important to ALWAYS firmly grip the tap body or spout to prevent it turning while unscrewing the upper.

Leaking pipes.

Tools needed.

Replacing a tap washer takes about ten minutes for a decent plumber. About half an hour for a first timer, or up to an hour if you really take plenty of time.
Cost with tools and washer, about four pounds.
Once you have done one tap, the rest are very easy.

Toilet flushes.

Once the water flow is stopped, the float arm can be removed and the plunger which pushes on the rubber washer can be removed. This is not difficult, being either the removal of a few metal parts or unscrewing of the plastic cover. Plastic bodied types have a specially shaped rubber seal, which is commonly available. Always take careful note of the way the washer is removed.

Overflow drip.

That little pipe which sticks out the wall and annoyingly drips for a few weeks, tells you that the water level valve controlled by a ball cock has started to leak, or that the float has punctured. The overflow pipe allows a tell-tale drip before the tank overflows.
If fitting such an overflow pipe, it must flow to the outside, as a visual warning of failure. Never let it drip into a gutter, but onto the patio or somewhere where it can warn of impending problems. Overflow pipes are a safety warning system, not a minor inconvenience.
The leaking ball cock valve is just a simple tap washer design, but controlled by a float connected to a long lever which closes off the tap when the water is at the right level in the tank, rather than the screw thread of a basic tap.
The solution is the same for the tap, simply turn off the water supply and then replace the washer.

If the float has punctured, then the float sinks and the water overflows.
To temporarily repair the float, lift up the arm to prevent water coming in and secure it in the up position with some string or a piece of wood. Carefully remove the float and heat it with the hole at the bottom to pressurise and expel the water. After doing this many times, by cooling in cold water with the hole at the top and in the air, then back into hot water with the hole at the bottom to push out the water until bubbles appear, then you can seal the hole. As the hole is merely a guide to the poor state of the rest of the float, then it is better to patch the hole first, either with a dab of a hot wire over the plastic, or some solder on a copper float, or simply an old cycle puncture patch. Then a coat of paint to give it an extra year of life. Because new holes are likely on the old float, then replace the repaired float and wrap a few polythene bags over the float and lever, so you can apply many, many turns of cord to secure the bags in a waterproof manner around the arm area.

When getting up to the attic, use a ladder as you will surely forget some tool or such like, so easier access from the outset is worth the little extra effort. Grab a torch (flashlight) and do a reconnoitre. Check the access across the rafters is safe. Put down some old planking, and use a decent light on an extension lead.
Any old planking will do, if sufficiently strong. An old cupboard unit or wardrobe will usually suffice, although real wood is far better. Do not use modern doors or plasterboard. Use a couple of nails to keep it from sliding around.

While up in the attic, look for the wiring to the ceiling lights below, and if there is a junction box, switch off and add a simple switch and roof light. Make sure the light switch is just inside the attic for easy access and also so that the light is not accidentally left on for a few years. See wiring later. Also check for anything untoward such as water stains from a leaking roof. See roof tiling later.

Check there are no wasp nests or pigeon nests about. If so, start blocking up the offending access holes after they have cleared off, usually in mid winter. Then destroy the nest. If you live in the country and have owls or bats, then go very carefully and do all you can to help them. Even if you do not have owls, you could still consider encouraging them. You could make a special owl nest area, then fit a cheap infrared TV door security camera to keep an eye on them from your TV downstairs or a web cam.

Once the attic and flooring is safe, check out what is needed. You only want to service the tank every decade or less, so have a full check. You may simply wish to arrive with a new replacement ball cock, but the old brass types are magnificently reliable and simple to service. With the water off, simply lift the lid, pull out the split pin and disassemble. Don't drop bits, otherwise you will have to roll up your sleeve and retrieve the bits. Inspect fully, then refit with a new washer. Check it works well, by getting someone to use the water. As header tanks are usually only for hot water systems, then leave washing the dishes for this test. Run a few gallons and stop. Start again a few times with a couple of minutes in between to check the valve does not leak. When happy, cover up and forget for another ten years. If you are interested in why the hot water header tank does not contain hot water, see hot water systems later.

Tanks in the attic can suffer from frost, so always insulate the tanks fully. Even if only using unwanted blankets, sleeping bags or duvets, keep the tank tightly snug with no air gaps, then tie down with string with a bow knot so it can be easily accessed next time.
Those old sleeping bags with side zips are also ideal for insulating the hot water tank to keep the heat in, - the more the merrier.

Cleaning Radiator Systems.

If you shut off the water to drain down the system, perhaps to line the tank with polythene sheeting, then there will be a lot of air trapped in the system. You must therefore always open all the normal radiator valves after the drainage to allow the water to flow and also all the radiators must be bled.
To bleed the radiators, you will need a small handle with a square hole, to slightly unscrew the very small valve which is positioned in the top of radiators to allow all air to escape. Once the air is bled, the water begins to flow and the small bleed valve can be shut off.
If some poorly positioned radiators tend to fail to get warm after many years, then air may be accumulating in them, and you may have to bleed them occasionally.

Corrosion.

Occasionally the tank tap/valve device may be in good repair, but it is just the float that is at fault, probably with a leak in the ball or float, causing it to sink, although this is very rare.
If the float has punctured, then the float sinks and the water overflows. Lift up the arm to prevent water coming in and secure it in the up position with some string or a piece of wood. Carefully remove the float then heat it with the fracture or hole at the bottom to pressurise and expel the water. After doing this many times, by cooling in cold water with the hole at the top and in the air, then back into hot water with the hole at the bottom to push out the water until bubbles appear, then you can seal the hole. As the hole is merely a guide to the poor state of the rest of the float, then it is better to patch the hole first, either with a dab of a hot wire over the plastic, or some solder on a copper float, or simply an old cycle puncture patch. Then a coat of paint to give it an extra year of life. Because more holes are soon likely on an old float, then replace the repaired float and wrap a few polythene bags over the float and lever, so you can apply many, many turns of cord to secure the bags in a waterproof manner around the arm area. Start thinking of a replacement float.

Roof tank corrosion.
When the galvanised roof tank begins to corrode, it may seem a very heavy and horrible job involving old pipes and such like. Don't worry, - simply drain down and fit a plastic sheet as an insert.
You should ideally start with cleaning and drying the bottom. Then use lots of bathroom sealant near the lower drain pipe so the plastic sheet will seal. The rest is simply tucking in a thick polythene sheet to fit, and folding it around the corners and top. Do not secure the top of the bag or liner until the water has returned and allowed the sheet to take its full shape. Then you can apply a wrap of adhesive tape will keep the upper lip of the sheet over the top of the tank from falling in. Finally pierce the holes into the plastic where the pipes enter and exit.
As the ball cock is normally above the water level, then the plastic can be split to save you from having to unscrew the valve assembly from the side of the tank. I simply split the plastic, then pull it up, snugly under the ball cock, then let the rest of the plastic find its own shape by pushing it down and into the corners. Once filled, I then use a pencil and my finger to open up the pipework holes.

I've been told it is also possible to get plastic inserts which fit into the old galvanised header tanks, which are available to fit all standards sizes for the ultimate 'belt and braces' approach, but they are probably no better nor any more effective and hard to find.
If you cannot get a liner, then simply use a strong trash bin liner, - but not the biodegradable type !
If nothing else is available in an emergency, use a large camping ground sheet. If you can find food grade thick plastic sheeting, or the sheeting used for lining ponds or river beds, then grab this stuff as it's ideal for the job - about 3 quid per square metre. The best liner is the plastic used to line fish ponds or river beds. Then simply insert the plastic sheet, pushing it into the four corners, then hanging the edges out over the top. The internal water will keep it into shape inside the tank.
By applying some silicone sealant around the inlet and exit holes before inserting the plastic sheet, you can then push out holes in the plastic liner into these pipes with your finger, although as some sheets are strong, a pencil helps start the hole. Make the holes last of all, to ensure the openings are at the correct place, and nicely sealed once the liner is safely in position.
In such emergency repairs, you can make the inlet and exit holes by pushing your finger through the polythene or for a snug fit of the liner into the hole, or by using the appropriately sized tapered parts of old plastic funnels, as used in the kitchens and garages for pouring oil or water into bottles.
Emptying and preferably drying the tank makes for a more reliable repair.
In the worst case scenario, you can even apply the bin liner to the inside of the tank before emptying it, as this will do for a good emergency repair.
Sealing the pipe entry and exit holes may be a problem, but the pressure of the water will at least prevent the sides and bottom of the tank from leaking until you get a chance to do the job properly.

The best solution is of course, to apply a polythene bag to the inside of the tank before it fails, so next time you are up there, and if the tank looks suspect, then take a large bin liner and have a practice to see if you can make it fit.

By using good quality plastic, this makes a very good alternative to replacing the water tank, as not all bodges are temporary, and in many cases, can be a 'belt and braces' approach for total reliability.

Replacing a tap.

Sink and kitchen taps are available in short or long bodies, longer allow extra height in the sink to fill the kettle, while the shorter bodies look nicer in the bathroom wash basin.
Before buying, inspect the pipe connection on the new tap body for damage. It must be perfectly machined and free of scratches on the conical internal end of the base where the pipe fits. If buying loose from a wholesaler, inspect and choose carefully.

If there is a length of spare copper pipe available, practice fitting the pipe fitting to the tap and pipe. Cleanliness and alignment are important.
Follow the above procedures to stop the water flow. If there is a small flow, then a plastic tub or bowl may be needed underneath. If the flow is persistent, two bowls are recommended.
Using a pipe wrench, unscrew the nut holding the tap body to the pipe. Then unscrew the large tap body retaining nut under the sink or basin. Usually this is difficult to reach and a basin wrench is required. See photo above. They are quite cheap, a tool shop in Frankfurt Gate sells them for a pound.
Get the thread tape, tap washers and pipe wrench at the same time for a total cost of four pounds or less. A good craftsman will ensure a cheap basin wrench makes a good fit on the new replacement nut. A little filing may be needed on cheaper basin wrenches for a good fit.

When the old tap is removed, check and replace with your new item.
When fitting the new tap body to the sink, always use the rubber seal or some silicone bathroom sealant between tap body and basin, to prevent water dripping down past the tap body and basin. The large tap body restraining nut must be fitted first, from underneath, before any pipe connection. As the water pipes are usually fixed, it is often easier to place this large nut up under the sink, then use the tap body to screw into it. Then the tap can be lowered into place onto the pipework.
Make sure the pipework connection is absolutely clean. Do not tighten too hard, as this is compressing a brass and copper pipe assembly. If leaks occur, try tightening further. If persistent, turn off the water, unscrew the nut, then rotate the tap body a few times on the connection to remove any particles of dirt, then try a little thread tape which can often help restore a less than perfect seal. If badly damaged, replace with new pipe back to the nearest soldered join. See later.

If fitting a modern single tap with hot and cold water mixer, then these will often have flexible pipes to attach to the old pipework. In such cases, you should always check it will all fit before working on the pipework.

Possible problems.

Pipe sizes.

The 'U' bend.

Fitting a new sink.

Before replacing a sink, it may be necessary to refit a few lengths of copper pipe. Before you commit yourself to this, first practice with a length of pipe, a small hacksaw or pipe cutter, a selection of connections, solder, emery cloth, flux and a small blow lamp.
Cut the pipe to length, neatly cut at right angles. Clean the end cut so that the are no rough edges. Then use the emery cloth or other abrasive cleaner such as pan scourers, so the bare metal is clean where the solder will flow. Apply a fine film of solder flux over the end of the pipe. Insert the two pipes fully into the connector fitting, possibly a butt join, or a 'T' piece. Then heat evenly until the solder flows fully.
For those who do not want to solder, there are also 'compression fittings', which can be used to do the same types of job. They are available in various types, including 'T' pieces.

Compression fittings are a little more expensive than soldering a connection, but very convenient. They consist of a threaded collar which is placed on the pipe, then an 'olive' which is a brass compression seal which also slides over the pipe. Then the connection or T piece or tap body is fitted to the end of the pipe and the collar used to secure the olives in the body and the collar tightened up to compress this whole into a water tight seal. These also allow easy disassembly and as such make for a much easier time if you intend to modify your house pipework regularly.
Compression fittings also allow easy repairs if you have a split pipe, perhaps from frost damage, where the damaged section is sawn out and a new section fitted, retained at both ends by compression fittings.
Having a saw, a length of pipe and a couple of compression fittings can save a load of hassles if things go badly wrong on a cold, frosty night, and affordable plumbers are never available.

With the above knowledge on taps, U bends and pipes, the old sink unit can be removed. The sink units are usually retained by some bathroom sealant and possibly a couple of brackets underneath. To remove the old, a torch (flashlight) helps, then a strong knife or screwdriver.
If the wooden work surface is to be replaced, then fit this first. Make sure it is level, otherwise the unit may not drain the water into the sink. Use a spirit level.
If the sink unit is a traditional large one-piece stainless steel basin and drainer, it will need a frame, usually a basic frame of wood.

The rear edge of the sink unit will have a lip. Fit this in place and mark the line of the lip. It may be necessary to recess the wall slightly to take the lip. In other cases, the lip may be flush against the wall and tiles will overlap to complete the seal. Make sure the drain will do its job, by placing a spoonful of water on the drain to check it flows the correct way.
It is simple to buy or build a set of front doors to fit onto the frame to match the rest of the kitchen.

On work surfaces, a hole is cut to accept the small sink units. There is usually a paper alignment sheet to act as a guide. A drill hole followed by use of a pad saw or cheap jig saw will suffice. If you have an electric drill, buy a cheap 'side cutting drill bit' for a quid.
On full size metal sink units, the underlying wooden framework should be well painted to prevent damage from moisture. It is not necessary to buy a fitted unit, as the frame need only be a stout, basic wooden structure to support the sink or worktop, possibly with a couple of hinged or sliding replacement doors fitted if required. If the old frame is in good condition, a set of new matching doors may suffice.

When there is the need to use cheap self assembly sink units with cupboards and such like, they are not so bad if assembled properly, with plenty of care and preparation. Where used for tough environments, some extra strong glue to help retain some of the unusual door hinges can be useful. In most cases, they will work reasonably well.
In damper environments, or if intending to keep for more than ten years, the edges of many components should be sealed prior to, or after assembly. This is because most components are made from horrible laminated chip board with a plastic surface. The plastic may be waterproof and hardwearing, but if water gets into the ends, the chipboard will eventually distort and weaken. It is some of these areas that should be protected from moisture, with plenty of paint soaked in. After assembly, a little bathroom sealant can be spread into all joints, covers and other gaps, the excess wiped off before it dries. Now paint the whole underside and wall surface gloss white so that the minimal light makes finding the pots, pans and such like much easier. This also makes cleaning and hygiene much easier. The undersink paintwork of the authors first sink attempt is still totally waterproof and dry after twenty five years.

Fit the sink, but do not secure. The copper pipes will often not fit, so new pipework or extensions may be needed. A gas blowlamp and some solder, plus a few short lengths of copper pipe will often suffice. Always scrupulously clean all copper pipes before soldering and use flux as recommended by your local supplier. Or use compression fittings for those who prefer an easier life.

Please note that due to modern safety practices, low lead or zero lead solder is now used. It needs a slightly higher temperature and is not always appreciated by many in the plumbing trade. (Ask for real solder if possible.)

Also get a few extra angle and T pieces.
Now is a good time to add any T pieces for later additions such as washing machine connections, if they are close by. Another possibility is a hole in an external wall for a garden tap via a 'T' piece.

Fit all the pipes loosely so they all align with the temporarily fitted sink and taps. This allows a little wiggling, so it all aligns neatly and easily.
Include small isolation valves in the pipework to each tap, so the taps can be repaired without reverting to the main stop cock.
Then the sink drain can be fitted, which uses the larger bore plastic pipework.
When all is fitted, secure the sink, using any sealant if fitted to the hole in a work surface. Then solder up the pipework, so it aligns easily with the taps. Use metal shields or trays to protect the surrounding components from excess heat. Use a new U bend and connect to the existing plastic drain pipe. The sink overflow is usually easy to connect using instructions included with the sink.

Once all is ready, open the water supply slightly to allow water pressure, but little flow. Check the pipework. Repair as necessary. When re-soldering, heating the water pipes which have water in them is a problem. To prevent pressure build up, drain the water where possible and open the taps to allow steam to escape until all water is removed and the solder can flow freely. If the water is a problem and soldering cannot be done, then use a compression fitting or two instead of soldered joins.
When all is well, paint the pipework to reduce corrosion. Seal around any forgotten areas, so that splashes will never contaminate the surroundings.

Tiling.

It is often necessary to trim a tile to shape. For a simple line, a hard tipped scoring tool is used. Score deeply on both sides, then place over a long pencil and gently press to crack along the line. For complex shapes and curves, the tile is often 'nibbled' away, using small snub nosed pliers. Alternatively very carefully score to full depth to remove the area of the tile. Both methods require patience and a few extra tiles.

If confident with sinks, whole bathrooms are but one more step beyond.

Water will not empty.

If the water does not flow out, first blow down the pipe, hoping this may temporarily clear some of the blockage, allowing the water to flow out. You may have to do this many times.

If blowing fails, it will be necessary to remove the back plate of the washing machine and repair the problem. This can get wet, especially if there is a lot of water in the machine. Either raise the washing machine up, or try to move (walk) the washing machine to the outside, where water flow will not be a problem.
To walk a heavy object, lean it onto a corner, then pivot it about this, then do the same on the other side until it gradually 'walked' out to where it is needed.
As the washing machine will be very heavy, or in a confined place, you may have to simply slide or lift the machine out from the wall and then, bit by bit and placing wooden blocks, bricks or similar items under front and rear, to gradually raise it high enough to place a large bowl under the outlet of the wash drum.
Remove the back panel and look for the moulded rubber drain pipe and sludge trap from the main wash drum. It may be shaped like bellows, with a sediment or money trap, so that heavy items do not damage the water pump. Unclip this where it connects to the water pump. The water pump will be a circular item with an electric motor concentrically attached and the outlet pipe also attached.
Releasing the rubber connection pipe will allow the whole lot of water to gush out, so be careful and have plenty of bowls ready, or be prepared to block the water flow with your hand, while an assistant empties the first bowlful of suds. You can now safely open the front door and remove the washing.

When empty, try to discern the cause of the problem. It may simply be a rubber or fluffy mat which has disintegrated in the wash and clogged up the water pump. Give everything a good clean out using a garden hose while the bowls are still underneath, so it all goes back together in a nice clean manner. If this is caused by strands clogging the pump, then you may prefer to remove the pump and tease out the strands until it is clean.

There is often a strong spring clip which holds the rubber pipe onto the pump. Take your time to use the pliers and fully open the clip, so it slides off and back on easily. It may take a few attempts.
If you get really stuck trying to refit a very strong spring clip, you can revert to using a screw type hose clip, often known as a Jubilee Clip, which is far easier to fit and available from many places, including the local garage, DIY shop and hardware store.

If like some plumbers, you simply cure the problem without finding out why, then you may be prone to the same thing again.

Done properly, this will cost you nothing other than time and a little effort. No call out fees, (or is it call lout fees?), no replacement water pump, nor many days waiting for items probably not needed.

In the worst case, if the pump has burnt out or failed, you may need to replace the pump. Make a note of the make and model of the washing machine, go to any reputable spares shop with the old pump and buy the replacement. Trades shops are often best, as their prices are lower and stock is often available off the shelf. Replacing a pump is straightforward replacement mechanics stuff and may take five minutes. Always make a note of the wiring positions before removal, so make a pencil sketch on the inside of the washing machine as a reminder before removing anything.

Typical tools - a washing up bowl, a mop, a few blocks of wood or bricks, a phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. (Optional - patience and a sense of humour.) Cost, one hour of your time. New pump, about a tenner.

Replacing a rubber door seal.

Drive belt.

Defrosting a fridge.

This is not technically plumbing, but is a common occurrence.
Many fridges build up layers of ice from the water laden atmosphere. Leaving the door open longer than needed means you will be defrosting more often.
For many, defrosting means removing the contents, switching off the fridge and waiting for the warmth of the air to gradually melt the build up of ice. For some, the hair dryer can be very useful. These all take time and meanwhile, the food is getting warm.
There are aerosol cans of defrosting spray and such like, but they are usually a waste of time and money.

The author has a twenty year old fridge which still works perfectly well. A simple thermal indicator strip inside ensures the temperature is safe for the food. Many older fridges don't have thermometers, yet these are very cheap and well worth checking the state of your fridge and food.

Hot air rises, and so the cooling part of the fridge is at the top, making the warmer air colder, so it falls gradually down to the bottom of the fridge. This upper cooling part of the fridge contains metal plates which draw the heat out of the compartment, and it is this which needs defrosting. To know more about fridges, see the later part of my webpage on water-cooling computers.

Unfortunately, chipping away with a knife at the ice in the fridge is likely to cause serious damage over a few years. It is far better to remove the build up of ice in some passive manner. Hot water holds a lot of heat, which easily destroys ice. But getting the water into that upper cavity is difficult.
The 'Super Tool' for easy defrosting is available from all flower shops - the long, straight-spout watering can. This is usually a small one piece plastic household water pot capable of holding a pint or two of water. (0.5 to 1 litre.)
A pair of gloves also help.
There is a drip tray below the freezer compartment and this will catch the hot water and ice, but some may trickle down to the bottom of the compartment. So remove the upper items which should not get wet, and place a towel around the edges of the tray, just below the drip tray, so it can catch any spilled water. If you have a side light in the fridge, then a cover of food cling film will prevent water causing problems.
Empty the upper cold, freezer compartment where the cooling pates and metal pipes are situated. Place the deep frozen food in a bowl and put them somewhere cool. If you live in a hot country, then you can use the bowl to hold the ice as it's removed, further keeping the food cold.
Put the kettle on and boil some water. Switch off the fridge.

While waiting for the water to boil, use a plastic or wooden frypan spatula to scrape off the excess loose ice which can be shovelled into the drip tray. Plastic or wood will not damage the fridge internals, but be wary of any small pipes at the back of the fridge cooler unit. When all excess frost is removed, empty the drip tray.

With the long spout, slowly and gently pour hot water over the very top of the cold compartment plates where the ice has built up. The water will trickle down, over the cooling metal parts, to the drip tray. After the first pint of hot water, empty the drip tray and replace it. Continue this process to melt the ice.
It will be seen that the plastic spout can get right in to the hidden areas above the metal plates. After a while large chunks of ice will fall off, or get jammed in the sides. Playing hot water on the lower plates will also allow large chunks of ice to fall off into the drip tray.

The plastic compartment panels are not very strong and the metalwork contains pipes with refrigerant which must never leak, so go carefully. You can tease lumps of ice away, but never force ice off, or try to break up chunks. Judicious use of a plastic spatula is ideal to help coax of chunks of ice, as the plastic will not damage the fridge components.
Eventually you will have lots of ice and water removed from the fridge as the last pieces of ice give up under the power of hot water.
You do not have to remove all the ice, as it will only build up again, but removing the vast majority if the ice will ensure your fridge works happily.
Once happy with the ice removal, give the fridge a good drying with the towel which helps reduce initial moisture build up. Also dry off any frosty frozen foods as they return to the freezer compartment.

This should have taken half an hour or less. The frozen foods have not been out long enough to be dangerous to their frozen state. Those from the freezer section have been placed in a bowl with chunks of ice. You have not spent money on fancy sprays or other items, nor have you resorted to chipping away with a knife which could cause irreparable damage.

Switch the fridge back on, listen for the pump motor, and check the temperature after an hour.

Fridge door seals.

Sometimes the plastic seal is physically damaged and cool air can flow from the bottom of the fridge. Silicone bathroom sealant can be used to make reasonable repairs to the plastic edging. - Just place some cling film on the fridge side, and use bathroom silicone sealant on the broken door seal and close the fridge door until it sets. The cling film will prevent the door from being glued shut.

Recycle Fridges.

A basic household plumbers tool kit.

For fitting sinks and baths, add a blowlamp, solder, flux, emery cloth or similar abrasive pipe cleaner, tiling cutter, spirit level, silicone bathroom sealant. Additional cost, if you know where to shop, twelve pounds.
Also a few wood working tools if making your own fittings.
More on plumbing later.

Wiring a plug.

There are three wires.
Red or brown. - This is L or 'live', traditionally the wire supplying power to the plug.
Blue or black. - This is N or 'neutral', traditionally carrying the power back to the supply.
Green or yellow and green. - Marked E. 'earth' or with the earth symbol. This is to protect the user by connecting to any external component, so that it will safely carry the electricity away from the user. The earth is not dissimilar to a lightning conductor.

Opening up the three pin socket, the three connectors will be seen. The wire connected to the fuse is L 'live'. It will be noticed that this wire is in a direct line to the screw connector. This is important, as if the cable is pulled out, it is this wire that must become detached first for safety.
The N or 'neutral' wire is close to the wire exit and this detaches next, leaving the safety E 'earth' wire last of all, so the user remains safe under all circumstances. They should not pull out, as there is a clamp where the cable enters the plug. If wired safely, then all could pull out in the correct sequence. - L live dangerous, then N neutral the next dangerous, then the safety E earth last of all. - Very simple, yet very clever. This assumes the plug is wired properly.

Cut the outer sheath of the cable carefully and bend it to help the cut just reach as far as needed to remove the outer cover without cutting the inner coloured plastic insulation. Then trim the length of each of the three wires to be correctly positioned in the plug. The earth wire can be left over-length for safety.
Loosen the three internal screws, remove the last 5mm of the inner cable plastic coverings, twist the copper strands for neatness and insert. Tighten the screws. Position the wires safely and neatly in the plug, and fit the strain relief, a small bracket or plate which clamps the cable. Check the correct fuse rating and then replace the cover.

How to change a fuse.

Most fuses are in the connecting three pin plug for the item. There are also larger main fuses on the main house circuit fuse box.
The fuse in a three pin plug is simple to replace. If it fails again, then the item is probably faulty and needs repair.

The main electric circuits in a house are on a few main circuits.
Under the stairs or somewhere similar lies the main fuse box. This is the place the country wide electricity network meets your house. The electricity company has their own fuse which is NOT yours to touch. The main domestic fuse box is yours to touch.
The main house hold circuits are for power and lights, three, perhaps four or five 'ring mains'. Two circuits for power. Two for lights and a fifth for an electric cooker. Also other dedicated circuits as required such as immersion heater, garage extension.
The circuits are usually a single lighting circuit and two separate power circuits.
Each power socket is connected either on an upper storey or a downstairs circuit: Two separate circuits requiring two main fuses.
A double lighting circuit is possible for upstairs and for downstairs and thus requires a fuse for each circuit. In smaller houses, a single lighting circuit is possible.
The cooker is usually on a dedicated circuit. If an immersion heater is used, another circuit may be applicable. Likewise any extension to an out-house, workshop or utility room.
For obvious reasons, all main fuses should be marked clearly on the fuse box. E.g. 'upstairs lights', 'Cooker'.

Main fuses come in two flavours, one the traditional type using a piece of wire, the other using a current trip switch. Only the former needs replacing of it's wire when it fails.

When an item stops working, such as the vacuum cleaner or a light bulb, the item should be placed in another socket on a different main fused circuit known to work, possibly upstairs. If the item still does not work, then the small fuse in the socket or plug should be replaced first. If this does not solve the problem, check for any internal fuses or thermal fuses. These are common inside kettles, Hi-fi's and computers.

Fault finding.

Don't overload your wiring.
If the test item, such as a desk lamp or electric fire has proven to work correctly for a while without failing in a different socket, but fails to work in the other socket, then the offending part of the house circuit will need to be checked.
What you are trying to discern is where the fault lies, either in the lamp, TV or whatever, or in the other wiring in the house.

Check with no items connected to the house circuit - remove all lamps, TV etc. If the fuse blows then either any permanently attached items such as the boiler heater wiring or gas boiler may be at fault, otherwise the house wiring may be faulty and will need closer inspection. If the circuit fuse does not blow, then reconnect each item one by one and check for an obvious culprit.

Assuming the main house circuit has failed, the next question is why. Check the main fuse for the house circuit. If the fuse has not blown, then it may simply be the wall socket that is at fault. If old, simply replace with a new wall socket, as old sockets will remain old and problematic. The problem may simply be a loose wire to the socket. Do not work on the wiring before removing the main fuse - see later.

A common reason is that the fuse is old and simply needs replacing. The other main reason is that the load from the various appliances is too much, such as too many fires on the circuit.
A less common problem which is more difficult is that the circuit itself has failed.

To switch off a circuit with a wire type fuse holder, first use the big switch, then remove the fuse, then turn the big switch back on.

If the circuits and fuses are clearly marked, then simply switch off the main fuse box switch and remove the appropriate fuse. Then immediately switch the fuse box back on, as even a few minutes without power can cause videos to loose their memories and cooker or heating timers to loose a few minutes !
If the circuits are not marked, then simply see which circuits are used by each fuse and mark them on the fuse positions.

On some fuse boxes, the fuse may be a trip switch. Re-setting the trip switch does not need the main switch to be switched off. The trip fuse may break again after a few minutes. If so, then you have to safely isolate the circuit and check it out.

On traditional fuse boxes, switch off the big switch on the fuse box and inspect each of the fuse holders. Replace the burnt fuse wire with the correct value of fuse wire. This is simply a case of pulling out the fuse holder, unscrewing the two retaining screws, cleaning out the old fuse wire and replacing. The fuse holder is colour coded and MUST be refitted with the correct rated fuse wire, usually 5, 15 or 30 amp. Switch off the fusebox, remove the fuse holder, switch back on. Replace the fuse wire at leisure, then switch off, replace the fuse holder with new fuse wire and switch back on.

Check the appliances again. If the fuse has blown again then perhaps that particular part of the house circuit is overloaded or at fault.
Disconnect all appliances on that circuit and replace the fuse again. - Check without any item connected. If the fuse blows then house wiring is faulty and will need closer inspection. If it does not blow, then reconnect each item one by one and check for an obvious culprit, perhaps a heater with a faulty insulation or you have decided to use a very powerful lathe, or welder or other unsuitable item on domestic wiring.

If the main fuse blows with nothing plugged in, no light, nothing, then the domestic circuit is suspect.
This 'ring main' circuit consist of three heavy wires in thick plastic and usually hidden inside the walls and under the floorboards. The thick wires start form the main fuse box, and are laid discretely through the ground or upper floor, according to its needs, and connects to al the sockets on that circuit. the wires then return to the main fuse box, to make a circuit, so that the power can be supplied to both ends of the loop, to reduce needs for very heavy wiring.
The wires are usually in shorter sections, which connect between each wall socket, and the next wire is also connected at the socket, and travels to the next, to make lots of wires connected between the sockets, to eventually make up the main circuit. Somewhere in a these wires will be a loose wire on the back of a socket, or perhaps a rodent has eaten through the insulation and caused a short circuit, or any of many problems. It becomes a case of chasing the problem.

Always remove the fuse of the circuit you are working on. Always work with that fuse in your pocket. This can save your life.

The fuse box can then be switched on, with just the faulty circuit disconnected. While the fuse for the circuit you are checking is in your pocket, you are safe. If a trip switch, place some tape over the small lever. If a button, place a warning note.
Whether in doubt or not, always use a working desk lamp or other component to check if the sockets or light connections are not live before working on them. Then check with a mains tester. If safe, each socket can be removed from the wall carefully for inspection. Look for loose wires or other obvious faults such as overheating, ageing, corrosion, water ingress, rodent problems or poor workmanship.

If all sockets are fine, then the wiring itself may be at fault, but replacing with a new socket does no harm at this point, as they are cheap and good long term insurance.
If the wiring is suspect, this could be anything from water, corrosion, rodents, falling masonry or a host of other problems. This will require checking with a circuit tester, to find the approximate problem area. This can be done by checking with a meter, or partially deconstructing a ring main to see which half causes the fault.

A 'ring main circuit' is simply a long loop to and from the circuit fuse, made of many lengths of wire between the sockets around the house, connecting all the sockets together. The advantage of a ring or loop of sockets, is that the equipment used can be supplied from both sides of the ring, so that one length of wire does not get overloaded.
You will need to know how the wiring is done in the house, and this will take time. Being able to disconnect half the wiring will help diagnose the offending area. Then doing the same for one half, then gradually working down to the faulty area.
It is sometimes easier to simply replace any suspect but hidden sections of cable rather then to check them by lifting up the floorboards.
Once the section of suspect wire is found, it will require physically checking, probably lifting floorboards and such like. In some cases, it may be possible to attach a piece of string to the old cable and use this to replace with a new length.
The best way is to solder new wire to the old so that it is very strong, and carefully tease the new wire through its tortuous, hidden path. If this does not work, then you will have to start lifting up floorboards or wall cavities or roof beams or whatever. Alternatively, you can leave the old wire in place but disconnected, then fit a new section of the ring main wising, perhaps through trunking discretely positioned in the appropriate section of the house.

When the fault is found and properly repaired, then check again.
In some cases, especially power circuits, a full new length of cable may need to be replaced, as repair by less than perfect connections is NEVER recommended. This is because hidden connections or joins can cause heat problems and possibly fire. It happens.
If a length of new cable can be fitted once, the replacement can also be done. This will be much easier, as the original faulty cable is there to help pull the new length through and into position.

To repeat, always work on a circuit with it's fuse in your pocket.
Finally check and reset any timers or clocks.

If adding a circuit to an existing one, such as another socket, ensure it does not cause the circuit to be overloaded with extra equipment.
In houses with heavy use of equipment, always make a calculation of the maximum load applied, by adding all the pieces of equipment to be used. It is very important such as returning late on a cold, wet day, when the heating is turned up, all the lights on and clothes into the washing machine or dryer.
Never have overloaded circuits.

Three 2kw electric fires on one circuit, is 3 fires x 2000 watts / 240 volts = 25 amps. Does the fuse in your fusebox handle this. Most lighting circuits are 5 amps. Ring mains at 15 amps and cooker circuits at 30 amps. Moral, do not overload your circuits, so a pair of two kilowatt fires will be safe, but three may not be safe.

For simple convenience always place a torch (flashlight), spare fuses and fuse wire, plus a small screwdriver near the fusebox. This makes for a much easier life when things go wrong. Total cost, three pounds.
If not marked, then grab a permanent felt tip marker and some masking tape, then check each circuit in turn and always mark them clearly.

You enter your house on a cold wet night, switch on the lights, heaters and the heaters don't work. - you go to the fuse box, use the torch to switch off the big switch and check each fuse, then replace the burnt fuse. Then remove all the extra items on the suspect circuit, then switch back on.
If it's the lighting circuit that blows, then the torch is even more important, although lights fuses usually only fail through long tern use and not because of any genuine electrical fault.

When electrical things go wrong, you should be three minutes away from solving the most common problems. No delays, no cost and minimal hassle.
Have a nice day :)

Fitting a new wall socket.

The main thing to consider is whether it is possible to make the more difficult, recessed form in the wall for the galvanised box, so the socket lies flush with the wall, or to have the easier method of the socket sticking out of the wall with a plastic body.
If you must use the sockets on plastic bodies sticking out of the wall, place them close to the beading, or skirting, door frames or window so the plastic trunking does not look so damn awful.
If the wall can be recessed without problems, so the tin box can be sunk into the wall, then choose this for neatness. Look for problems of brickwork, structural support. Make sure you do not make a recess in a thin or weak part of the house structure, water or gas pipe, electrical wire or other compounding problem.

Make the cable recess if needed, then a small groove for the cable and any tubing. Try to peel the old wall paper off neatly, perhaps from a neat cut to one side of the intended wall groove, so it can be folded back into place with minimal visible damage.
Fit the metal or plastic socket body, removing any of it's removable sections for easy cable entry. If recessing, fit the steel box, screwing it firmly, or with some cement for extra rigidity. On some boxes, it will be necessary to use plastic or wood wall plugs and screws. Always fit one first, then line up the box perfectly before drilling the other retaining hole. Then hammer in the plastic wall plug, or a piece of wood, then screw the item into place.
Route the cable back to the nearest connection in the ring main (see electrics), bending the cable for a neat fit. If external wiring, a few cable retaining nails with plastic clamps will keep all from moving, or preferably fit in the plastic trunking, which looks awful, but safe. If recessed, cover the cable with plaster.
If wallpapered, then you may be able to carefully peel back the wallpaper to allow a neat job. Using some special paste which softens wall paper glue may help to prevent wall paper damage.

Telephone Sockets.

The main inlet phone socket supplied by your telephone engineer will often have extra connections inside, so have a look and decide if you want to add an extra line.
In Britain, the lines have up to six wires, even though only two are needed. But it is usual to have the four main wires connected.
You can buy phone cable sockets and fit them using the accompanying crimping tool, or to push the wires into the special connections normally found inside the wall phone sockets.

The standard six wires are connected to the numbered connectors thus :
1 - Green with white ring.
2 - Blue with white ring.
3 - Orange with white ring.
4 - White with Orange ring.
5 - White with Blue ring.
6 - White with Green ring.

When one end is connected correctly, then adding the cable neatly around the house is fairly straight forward. But always look to make the shortest, neatest and safest position for the cable. Start by deciding the best place for the extension socket, and then decide if the cable should run down to the floor and along the skirting board, or if it should go sideways to the nearest door or up to the ceiling or picture rail for the neatest route.

Once laid out, and neatly restrained using the small nails with the plastic fingers, it's often worth leaving a yard or two spare, should the position need changing at a later date, as found to my advantage.

Using a multimeter.

For most cases this need only be 240 volts AC. For small items such as radios or kettles, a resistance setting measuring Ohms resistance is useful. For cars, 15 volts DC is also useful. A cheap multimeter that will do most jobs adequately can cost under a fiver. The expensive multimeters used by the trade are rarely used more than a cheap multimeter.
A multimeter has two wires with probes on the ends. If the dial setting is turned to above 240 volts AC, then this can be inserted into various sockets around the house to check they are supplying the voltage. The easiest and by far the safest way of course, is to plug in a desk lamp or other domestic appliance.
On a car, setting it to 12 volts or more on the volts DC, the probes (black to negative or earth) red to positive, will indicate if voltage is getting to the various wiring or components. For more vehicle wiring, see the authors, A builders guide to motorcycle, trike and car wiring.
If a kettle heater or lamp filament or a switch is suspect, the resistance setting in Ohms can measure the resistance between the two ends of the plug. When in the resistance (ohm) settings, movement in the needle means a small amount of power from the multimeter's internal battery is flowing, indicating there is electrical connection between the multimeter probes. If it happens to be a second hand item, and the meter current is flowing between the L or N wires and the handle, the throw the kettle/lamp/tool away !

How to fit a gas cooker.

Tip, if a similar cooker, then try to rescue any ignitors or other items which may be useful, as the delivery firm will often take the old cooker away for a sensible fee - so salvage what you can beforehand.

Before placing into position, check the hot air exit from the oven will work safely in it's intended placement. Many DIY shops will sell sheets of enamelled aluminium or steel sheet which is ideal on a wooden wall behind a cooker. Self adhesive aluminium foil on the wall can further help reduce problems. If no foil available, then use glue then edge crimp three layers of kitchen foil as used for cooking turkeys. Glue and pin to the wall. Glue will deteriorate over the intervening years, but a few drawing pins will help keep it in place. If against a wooden wall, add a thin insulating layer of wire mesh or fibreglass sheet between the foil and a wooden wall, to keep heat flow minimal.

Close the gas supply at the nearest tap or stop cock to the cooker. Disconnect the flexible connection pipe and remove the old cooker. Carefully inspect the flexible pipe and all other visible components. Connect up the new cooker to the pipe using some thread tape to ensure a good seal.

Thread tape is a fine tape of polytetrafluroethylene. (PTFE.) It is supplied on small reels about 1/2 inch wide and available in most DIY shops. (See picture in the taps section above.) Hold the reel of tape in one hand, and roll it over the thread, such that it pulls itself gently into the threads. A little tension while applying a few turns will allow the tape to be cut by pulling on the tape with the thumb on the tape leaving a clean application.

Connect any restraining chain and position the gas cooker as needed. On some cookers, an electrical connection may also be needed. Check the cooker carefully, then turn on the gas connection and check for leaks. Soapy water painted onto the pipe connections will highlight any leaks. If a leak, tighten, or clean and re-fit with new thread tape. Sniff and listen for leaks. Open the kitchen door to the outside, then turn on the gas rings for a few seconds to purge any air out of the pipework. When all is clear, check the gas rings, grill and oven light correctly and the flame looks good.

Place some water in any catchment tray around the gas rings, to indicate when the cooker is level. Adjust the cooker feet until level and secure.
Dispose of the old cooker after a week, by which time the new one should have proved reliable. If not, the old one can be replaced until the new replacement arrives. If a similar model, then keep the small ceramic igniter fingers and any easily damaged components, then place them in alloy foil in the pan tray under the cooker for safe keeping.

Occasionally the main cooker door may make a poor seal.
To check, place a strip of paper in various positions around the closed door and pull gently to check the condition of the door seal. Where it is loose, simply twist the door gently until the paper is pulled out with a better fit. Some adjustment of the hinges and door catch may be needed.
If in doubt about the cooker, place four small pieces of pastry near the corners of a pair of large trays and place them in the top and bottom of the cooker on medium heat. After an hour or so, they can be inspected and the cooker assessed for uneven front and rear heating, although the lower pastry will of course be slightly less cooked compared to the top set of pastry test pieces. If the top front is cooler, then check the door seal, as mentioned above.

Always note that gas cooker doors are only secured by a spring design, and NOT by any positive closure. This is because any gas leak can lead to an explosion, and an explosion in an confined spade is a bomb. By using a spring closure, the door can easily blow open and turn a potential bomb into just a harmless big bang. So never repair a gas door closure unless its with a similar design.

Repairing gas cookers.

Another failure of cheap British engineering.
Three years old, the oven part of our gas cooker stopped. The safety device which ensured the oven flame was on, failed. It was a simple tube which presumably pressurised a small valve which allowed the gas to flow. No flame - no gas. This safety flame sensor was a simple tube which corroded, but as this is Britain, trying to find the replacement part was a nightmare, as the gas cooker game is not as efficient as plumbing or central heating. The spare part seems impossible to hunt down, and the cooker was only three years old !

The shop said: 'We can supply a new cooker within a week - at the new price".
(Britain sucks. No wonder we have more sales staff than engineers.)

Bollox to this. I looked a little closer and realised it was just a steel tube. I simply teased it out for closer inspection, then crimped the corroded end tight. Once replaced, it worked fine !
Of course, it will not last for ever, but it will not need anything more than a replacement tube slid over the remains of the old one and hard soldered in place. The heat from the base of the flame will not be enough to melt hard solder and the heavy steel bracket will also help reduce problems when I make a replacement from a piece of old steel tubing. An alternative is to simply slide a piece of steel over the old tube and this will reduce corrosion and make repair easier and far longer lasting. I slid a length of old car steel brake pipe as a sleeve. It has worked happily for the last four years.
If you cannot find such tubing, simply make a lightly sprung roll of old tin plate, probably from a tin of baked beans, cut with scissors and rolled over a thin bar, then slid over the flame tube to protect it. I will now look at old cookers thrown away in back alleys for such parts.
If it fails, I'd have to buy a new cooker ! Certainly try to re-sleeve this little tube first.
To check it works properly, light the gas, then blow out the flames to see if the gas shuts off correctly.

This is based on living happily for thirty years with an old gas fired back boiler. The technology is robust and extremely reliable. Mine has lasted thirty odd years and still works perfectly. The thermal efficiency is still as good as modern designs and is certainly not worth replacing.
It has had two failures over the years, plus a little maintenance.

Replacing the thermocouple.

After he left, I inspected the system myself as I had nothing to loose.
The front fire is simply fixed to the wall by two screws hidden behind the easily removed front cover. This is also connected to a gas pipe which is easily disconnected once the simple valve is closed for the purpose of isolating the front fire. The back boiler fire in the old fire grate works independently of the front.

I looked for the obvious, then patched up the obviously corroded thermocouple tip by wrapping some copper wire around it, so that it would retain enough heat, which worked for many months.
Warning: Do not use this as anything more than a temprary substitute, as the extra copper will allow the thermocouple to remain warm enough to keep the polit gas flowing even if the fame is extinguished. So you may get the pilot light gas flowing for a few more minutes than desired. The pilot gas flow is minimal, but nevertheless offers a potential explosion if using naked flames. So let the themocouple cool and check the gas is not flowing and ventialte well, before attemting to relight the pilot flame.

I asked a friend who worked in the gas trade, who told me to go to the local commercial supplier. They are glad to serve the public as well as the trade. I took the obviously burnt out thermocouple and in ten seconds he placed a new one on the counter and charged a fiver.

Pleased as punch, I bought two.

The thermocouple looks like a small metal tube whose tip gets hot, on the end of a long, thin copper tube with a ceramic core and a central wire, to make the circuit. The hot tip is positioned in the pilot flame and the other end is snugly screwed into the control box.
Once fitted, follow the start up procedure, usually on a piece of paper inside the front cover.

If due to age, the pilot light ignitor does not work any more, simply use a cigarette lighter to warm the thermocouple tip. I took two tries, because the trip button on the control box took a lot of pressure.
The spare thermocouple is left in it's wrapper, lying underneath the new one. There have been no problems since.

In a draughty house where the pilot flame keeps flickering away from the thermocouple, it can cause a sensitive safety system to trip out. Simply wrap some copper wire around the thermocouple tip. This keeps the tip hot for a little while longer, should the flame be blown away from the tip in a draught for a few seconds. It is best not to fit a shield in the system, as this can cause poor airflow for the gas fire.

While the front was off, I took a little time to gently clean the various bits and pieces.

Smoky front fire.
Along the way, the front gas fire which warms the room, took to burning a little rich, when the ceramic heat tiles became sooty above the gas flame. I took off the front cover and looked closer, to find that some fluff was in the air intake pipe to the nozzles. A length of wire and a torch, and the problem was solved. A vacuum cleaner nozzle would also do the same job.

Ignitors.

Cleaning radiator sytems.

I later thought that perhaps the hot water for the bath and sink taps might need cleaning. It turned out to be spotless. This is because the water in the system is constantly changing, so contamination does not have the chance to build up in the system. The large hot water tank was spotless inside.
The only fault to be found was air in the mains water gradually building up and causing an air gap at the top of the hot water tank after many years. If you put your hand on the side of the tank, you can tell how full of hot water it is.
If you suspect there is air building up in the system, then simply find the highest point in the system close to the tank, then allow the air to bleed out. In this case, I used the highest kitchen radiator bleed vent and all is well. I now vent once a year, just before winter sets in.

The Timer.

Almost anything will do, such as a simple domestic timer, available in most shops. I went back to the same supplier, but who said the original timers aren't made anymore. I had the choice of a modern version for thirty quid, or small electronic version for twenty eight quid. I chose the modern electromechanical version because it has very simple and easy to use controls. No fiddling with digital timers or such malarkey. Easy to set the timing if the power failed and just wonderfully simple to use.
I read the instruction sheet and connected up the wires.
Once fitted, simply adjust the timer to switch the heating on and off during the day. - This was just two hours work, as I took my time reading the instructions. The biggest problem was screwing the mounting plate to the wall.

Thirty five years into the life of the system, our neighbour became a certified gas fitter. We paid him full price to check out this system. He checked for gas leaks with a gas sniffer, and then for carbon monoxide levels. Then used a smoke candle to ensure the flues were drawing the air correctly up the chimney and that the sealing was sound. He passed it with flying colours.

Basic central heating system.

If nothing else, this description will give an insight as to what is happening in your hot water system, so you can consider making repairs, perhaps even modification or fitting your own moderate central heating system.

First decide what type of central heating system is fitted or required. For many, a proper system is not possible and a compact system is needed.
For places without fireplaces, a modern compact boiler system using small bore pipes and high pressures will allow for simpler installations. These are often small wall mounted units with an external balanced flue cut through the wall to the outside. Start collecting the catalogues and decide which is best. You may even want to ask for a quote from a professional firm, if only for interest or a laugh.

If a traditional fireplace is available with a gas supply, then a full, traditional central heating system is also possible. This is also ideal if a wood, coal or other similar fuel source is used. The traditional type is a compact boiler, capable of being fitted in the back of a traditional fireplace. Often known as a back boiler system.

If using fire, coal or other traditional heating methods, a control system may not be needed, and the traditional type of boiler can simply be connected beside the heat source. For long term reliability, just the boiler unit should be connected to the flames or heat, with the pipework and connectors protected from direct heat or damage. Ability to regularly clean the boiler elements is important if using coal, peat or wood.
Where gas is used, a timer and thermostat can be fitted so it can be used to best effect.
Electric central heating is not discussed, as it is usually expensive. It can be used occasionally as a back up system, using a heater element in the hot water tank, or with a stand-alone water heater.

Look at the way the plumbing will be fitted and decide if it can be done. From the drawing, it can be seen that the cold water to the bath and sink can be either from the mains water or from the cold water tank. As cold water is used for drinking water supply as well, such as the downstairs sink (not shown), then ensure that drinking water comes direct from the mains, and not from a storage tank which may contain contaminated or stagnant water. The upper cold water reservoir is only to maintain pressure in the hot water heating system. The radiator tank does the same for the separate hot water radiator system.
The large round grey tank above the boiler is the hot water storage tank, and it will be seen that this hot water is directly connected to the boiler.

The radiator system also heated by one half of the boiler, but is otherwise a totally separate system, complete with its own smaller (yellow) header tank. The hot water and the radiator systems are not connected within the boiler unit.
As radiator systems usually contain old water which rarely changes, then this is not nice for hot water to the washing machine or bath.
If fitted, a small pump on the cold pipe beside the boiler circulates the heated water to all radiators while the boiler is lit.
The radiator tank does very little, other than ensure the system is filled and allows for a little expansion and any leakage. Radiator systems can be drained every few years to prevent getting really bad water in the system. Special radiator additives can be added to keep them internally cleaner and reduce corrosion.

Two valves are shown, one usually in the street, the other inside the house to isolate the hot water and the radiator system tanks. The other cold water plumbing is not shown.

If wanting to assess whether you want to use a hot water system, begin by measuring the space available and the number of radiators required throughout the house. Which fireplace is the best for the boiler, then the best way to route the plumbing, which should be done with great care.
If using a traditional system, decide on the best place for the hot water storage tank, which must be close and above the boiler and is often built to become part of an airing cupboard.
Decide the positions for the upper header pressure tank and any separate header tank for the radiator system which may also be in the roof space.
On back boiler systems with just two, close but higher radiators, then a pump may not be needed.
For a modern, stand-alone 'compact' wall mounted system, there will be no need for roof or hot water storage tanks.

Carefully think through the way the plumbing will be routed. It is imperative for all air in the pipes to flow up to the upper tank, if not, then air blocks will occur which can cause water hammer and damage. Water hammer is when air is trapped in the system and allows the water to flow intermittently, causing hammering in the pipes.

Do not overspecify the system. The author, a plant engineer, once inspected an oil fired library heating system and found it to be highly over specified. Even taking into account the needs of books, the small library had a system four times the necessary power. It was not always reliable. Do not get conned.

If a traditional gas fired system, the main fire and boiler are physically separate but act as one unit. The hidden boiler and its fire system is compactly fitted into the fireplace. In the same place a wood or coal fire would normally fit. The plumbing to and from it is then routed safely, without unnecessary damage to the surrounding brickwork. This will require drilling holes in any walls for the boiler to hot water tank inlet and exit pipes.
The Chimney must be cleaned first, checked for good repair and then a stainless steel sleeve fitted into the chimney to reduce corrosion of the surrounding brickwork. This flue must then be checked for good airflow. A new chimney top may be required if close to trees or other chances of intrusion by foreign particles.

A separate fire to heat the room is often fitted in front of the back boiler system.
If a coal fired boiler, then a real fire is superb, but will require regular stoking and cleaning. A gas boiler flame system is the most common and effective.
The back boiler system often consists of a large iron finned boiler unit, which may have two separate circuits. One for the radiator heating and one with the larger bore pipes leading to the insulated hot water storage tank for washing, baths etc.

A gas fire is usually operated by a control circuit. The control circuit includes a thermostat, a timer and a safety cut-out thermocouple. The thermostat controls the water temperature inside the boiler if using a gas, coal or wood fire. The timer can control the times the gas fire is lit, while the thermostat circuit can stop the gas flames when the required water temperature is reached.
On a gas back boiler, a small gas flame pilot light is continuously lit. The pilot flame acts upon a thermocouple which keeps a safety valve open and ensures the gas supply is available for use. If the pilot light extinguishes, then the gas supply is automatically cut off, so that when the control timer switches on the main gas for heating the water, but there is no pilot light to ignite the gas, nothing will happen. This is fail safe, nothing will happen unless the pilot light is burning.
When buying the back boiler system, always get a spare pilot light thermocouple tube which sits in the pilot flame, and a spare pilot light heater element which re-ignites the pilot flame. Unless the timer is complex, there is no need for a spare, as it is a simple on/off switch which will surely be available in the future. If not, then you can easily make your own using a standard timer for domestic use.
A decade ago, a British Gas fitter inspected our broken central heating and said spares were no longer available. But they could fit a new system for a thousand pounds. The failed component was available locally and was fitted within half an hour. It cost less than five pounds.
Experts rarely are. So do not get conned.

When fitting your own system, start by cleaning the chimney then fit the stainless steel chimney sleeve. This may require removing any flue damper. Temporarily fit the boiler in position. Check for a good fit, modifying the surrounds as needed. Ensure any panel or external room heater can also be fitted at the front of the boiler system. Never cement the water pipes in position, but allow room for slight expansion in the wall spaces and for insulating air to circulate. Never let the heating gases from a gas fired boiler to escape into the house, it must be sealed and then thoroughly checked for clear gas flow with a smoke candle to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

Decide where the hot water storage tank will be fitted, at least a few feet above the boiler to allow the hot water to rise and the cold water to sink down to the boiler unit. It must have appropriate supports to take the heavy weight. This is usually used as an airing cupboard with wooden slats to allow the warm air to circulate. Make sure the thermo flow between boiler and hot water tank is simple, with minimal bends or restrictions. This smooth routing allows the heated water in the boiler to rise to the hot water tank, while the cooler water can sink into the bottom of boiler unit. This creates a natural thermal flow, without the need for a pump and is thus fail safe. - Boiling water will rise, and the radiator tank in the roof will prevent it exceeding boiling point.
A thermostat controlled electrical heater may also be added to the hot water tank, as back-up system for when the boiler is not in use. The electrical system is usually a separate fused circuit and acts on a timer, temperature sensor and an over-ride switch.

If you enjoy a roaring coal or wood fire for heating your hot water back boiler and suspect you will soon be boiling all the water, then you may wish to fit a steam vent. Coal and wood fires are not easily controlled and steam may only appear in rare cases, a boiler, but it's always best to play safe. A steam vent is an extra, simple pipe from the top of the highest point in the hot water tank, - usually on the pipe leading out. This steam vent goes up above the header tank in the roof, over the top of the tank, with its open end positioned down inside the cold water. This will allow any steam to rise up and vent into the cooler water above, without creating excessive steam everywhere.

On traditional systems, both the hot water and the radiator systems require separate header tanks in the roof space.
These header tanks are fed from mains via a stop cock. Always include overflow pipes just above the standard water level, should the ball valve fail. When fitting an overflow pipe, the pipe should flow to the outside, as a visual warning of failure. Never let them drip into a gutter, but onto the patio or somewhere where they can warn of impending problems. Such overflow pipes are a safety warning system, not a minor inconvenience.
Connect the upper header tanks to the mains water supply. If the tanks are close together, a single pipe with an upper T piece will ensure simplicity and allow a single emergency stop cock.
The domestic hot water header tank maintains a head of water and need not be very large if the ball cock control flow is adequate. If a bath is used, then a larger tank is recommended to prevent drain down.
The header tank for the radiator system can be much smaller. The radiator system is separate, so that the unchanging water in the radiator system does not contaminate the domestic hot tap water. Note that the radiator header tank piping is connected to the cold side, so that very little heat will work it's way up to the tank, to reduce heat energy loss.
These header tanks are filled with float controlled valves essentially similar to the toilet flush tanks. If fitting galvanised steel header tanks, always mount on sturdy planks and give them a very good coat of paint, as they may not be seen again for many decades. Cover these tanks and plumbing with insulation to prevent frost damage. If access is difficult, try to ensure the ball cock can easily be replaced. Use high reliability components if access is difficult. If plenty of room, then regular maintenance may be suitable.

Tanks in the attic can suffer from frost, so always insulate the tanks fully. Even if only using unwanted blankets, sleeping bags or duvets, keep the tank tightly snug with no air gaps, then tie down with string with a bow knot so it can be easily accessed next time.
Those old sleeping bags with side zips are also ideal for insulating the lower hot water storage tank to keep the heat in,- the more the merrier.

A good engineer is a lazy engineer. If wishing to follow this precept, then place spare float valve seals and washers with the tanks, sealed in plastic bags, so that any failure is a short duration problem.
Fit the header tanks in the roof and connect the ball cocks to the mains water supply via a stop valve.
Connect the domestic hot water header tank in the roof to the lower pipe of the hot water storage tank. This ensures cold water does not disturb or mix with the hot water in the top of the hot water tank. This 'head' of water allows the hot water to be pressurised so it will flow to the bath, sinks, washing machine etc.
The radiator tank is connected to the lower end of the radiator half of the back boiler. Being a sealed system, the central heating system will collect sediment at the bottom of the system and can cause the flow to be restricted, placing an overload on the pump. This system will therefore require a low point drain cock for sediment removal. This is usually a few feet from the boiler so that the boiler can be easily flushed without having to be disassembled. Always have a low point sediment drain, so the radiator system can be drained five-yearly. The drain is usually a drain cock with a hose pipe connector. For convenience, this can employ a permanently fitted copper or plastic external drain pipe, with the tap indoors to prevent frost damage. Plug the open end with as easily removable plug, to prevent rodents or detritus entering in the intervening years. A clear plastic pipe will allow easy assessment of the amount of sediment.
Don't use antifreeze in the radiator system, as cross contamination in the boiler may happen in the far future. There are some anti contaminant additives, but first ask about them at your local supplier.

Fit pipes from the top of the hot water storage tank, to the basins and bath, dish washer and washing machine etc. This upper pipe supplying the hot water is a problem area, as this is where air can be trapped en route to the various components. Therefore it is important for all air in these pipes to be able to bubble upwards to the header tank or a vent tap. In such situations, it may be preferable to work back from the basin taps, figuring how the air will be expelled. Although all pipes are neatly aligned in the house, just a slight uphill slope on certain pipes will ensure no air remains in the system and thus it will work as perfectly as is possible. Take a few days and think it through carefully. In many cases, air trapped close to taps will simply be vented by fast water flow. In other places, especially part way along the route, the pipes may create a large air entrapment section. Avoid air entrapment at all costs. If it cannot be avoided, simply fit a small bore vent pipe to any offending section using a T piece on the higher bend, then route it back to the header tank in the roof or to a similar height or route it back to join the pipe from the header tank. Self venting pipe units are also available,