Car repair and maintenance.

Motorcycle maintenance is on this website - 'A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics', Basic and Intermediate.
Motorcycle design and manufacture, testing and beyond is in 'A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Design'.
Trike design and manufacture, testing and beyond is in 'A Beginners Guide to Trike Design'.
Cycle design and manufacture, testing and beyond is in 'A Beginners Guide to HPV Design'.
Wiring and electrics - car and van design, aerodynamics and wind tunnels etc., lookee same place.

Buy and maintain a second hand car on a budget.

First start by choosing a moderately uncomplex car. It is possible to buy a primitive car, but these are rare. The Morris Minor and similar vehicles are still available in reconditioned form from specialist re-manufacturers. For all others, aim for a well known make and model, preferably without electric windows, central locking or other fancy stuff which will cost a fortune when it goes wrong.
Choose a car which has minimal rust in the body shell.
For economy a 1300cc is best, as a 1100cc is often underpowered unless using only for town use. For longer journeys, a 1300 is a good compromise. A 1600 is usually more than needed, unless driving with a full passenger complement. If in no rush then 600cc to 1000cc can take you all around the world. I've toured eight European countries in a 350cc TN7 micro van, (modified motorcycle engine) and the petrol costs were minimal, while parking anywhere was an absolute doddle.

Buying.

Before knocking on the owners door, look at the car first. Stand at the front and rear, looking along the sides for straight or gently curving lines. Bumpiness can highlight filler or earlier damage.
Overspray of paint around the headlights, windscreen or other fittings will tell of a recent respray which may cover rust or damage problems.
Look at the tyre treads for uneven wear. If they are scrubbed, then the chassis or suspension may be bent. Steer clear of tyres with scrubbed ribs or uneven wear.
Check the condition of the seats. If they are badly worn, then the rest of the vehicle will probably also be well-worn. If plenty of dog hairs, then wear may simply be from pets, so the car will smell and you can haggle the price down, then buy a set of decent seats from the scrap yard.
If you can see the mileage, take 10,000 miles a year as an average, then decide if it has excessive mileage. If the numbers are not lining up neatly, the speedo may have been given a 'haircut'.
Look at the brake pedal, if the rubber pedal is badly worn, then the car may well have been thrashed, as a sensible driver does not use the brake very much nor very heavily. Sherlock would be proud of you.

If the car is in a garage, then it will probably be far less prone to rust. A fine layer of dust shows it is not used very often and probably in (A) superb condition, or (B) has been stored because of a problem.

If the bodywork is good, then most other problems or components can be easily repaired or replaced. You can easily replace a worn engine, but you cannot easily replace a rusty body shell.

If the car passes the above cursory checks, then ask the owner for a look around.
To check for rust, look under the battery and under the rear boot floor cover. Open the bonnet (hood) and have a quick look, and open the boot (trunk) and lift a corner of the floor mat.
Where possible, also look under the front seat carpet, or at least look for stains on the floor indicating unwanted water ingress.

It may be seen on occasion that some cars are ready to fail, or have already done so. This is simply by owner ignorance, skimping on costs, poor maintenance or harsh driving. Reading the personality of the driver can help, as can the house and may merely indicate a poor standard of personal values. This may be confirmed in a test drive, noting how the driver treats the car.

Under the bonnet (hood).
Then open the bonnet (hood) and look for oil leaks. All cars leak oil, but minimal oil should be seen. Check the chassis number matches the log book or remember the last three numbers for later.
Casually remove the oil filler cap and look for white emulsified oil, which indicates mostly short journeys and potential, but not necessarily high wear. If not white, then look for extremely black, sooty oil, which is indicative of poor maintenance or badly worn engine. - Do not buy if the engine has very black oil, it should just be very dark brown. If white, emulsified oil, carefully listen to the engine.
If the engine oil is too white or too black, then say 'sorry mate, I think the engine is on the way out'.

If neither white or black oil are present, than the engine can be run. Listen for unusual noises. If not knowing what noises are, simply listen to a few other engines first, from friends who have reliable cars.

While the bonnet is up, look for excess rust under the battery, and generally inside the engine compartment such as around the radiator mountings.
The brake oil reservoir is usually a clear plastic moulding, so check the brake oil is not too dark. If black, then budget for possibility of a few new brake components.
Test drive.
Start the engine and look to see that the oil pressure light goes out quickly. Then open the throttle quickly and look for dark, incriminating smoke from the exhaust. Black smoke, then the carburetion is duff. Blue smoke means the engine probably needs repair. - 'Sorry guv', that engine is on its last legs'.
Drive in a straight line with hands lightly on the steering wheel. Find a quiet, straight road and test the brakes. The car should brake in a straight line with hands off the steering wheel. If it does not, then the brakes are suspect. This can usually be easily repaired. If the tyres are unevenly worn, you should not have gone this far and be looking for another vehicle. Drive up a hill in a high gear, to see if the clutch slips.
Ensure the heater and all lights work.
The bodyshell and engine are then main problem areas. Brakes can usually be replaced for low cost, along with the exhaust, seats and lights. If the engine is fine but the seats are in need of replacement, then simply buy a new set of seats from the local scrap yard for a tenner each. Usually the better seats from the deluxe version of the car.

If keen to buy, tell them you will get the money from the bank and return. If in any doubt about buying the car, buy the workshop manual and check all maintenance and repair is fairly straightforward. Check out for any carburettors which are far less expensive to repair than fuel injection systems. Expensive electrical systems such as electric windows and central door locking can also cause problems.
Only if the car is an absolute bargain should you consider buying it then and there.

Look for the chassis number on a plate under the bonnet or inside the sill area. - Remember the three last engine and chassis numbers so you can compare with the paperwork.
Never buy from someone who is not at home.
If the owner wants to drive it to you, - do NOT get involved, it may be stolen !
Buy it from the same address as on the log book. Check the chassis number with the log book.

Once the car is bought, give it a long run, to check all is well.

Then give it an oil change, adjust the valve clearances and check the ignition timing. Where a cam belt is fitted, either inspect or replace. Cam belts should last 30,000 miles, are cheap but often difficult to replace. Unless sure, always suspect a cam belt - look at the prevous owners and deside if its thrashed or not, then the mileage. If possible, open up the belt cover and inspect the condition of the inner edges of the belt, and preferably get a professional to inspect it. You can often leave the cam belt cover off for a day or so, if you have to drive it for a friend to inspect.
If intending to keep the car for five years or more, then on a hot day, raise the car on ramps and fully scrape off any loose paint. Repaint then underseal all accessible areas underneath. Also remove all internal carpets and check for wet patches and repair as needed on a very warm day when the areas are completely dry. Then find out where the water is getting in.
Once the vehicle is reasonably reliable, use some petrol additive to clean out the fuel system.
Replace the oil, oil filer and also the air filter if dirty. If diesel or fuel injection, also replace the fuel filter.

Some second hand cars are driven for many months or years, without knowing it could be better until the first full service. If possible, get someone with a similar vehicle to offer a comparison. It may be possible to hire or test drive a similar vehicle, if possible, do so before deciding to buy an expensive car.

Do not be put off by garages saying parts are not available.
Example. The brakes failed. The mechanic said he could not find a replacement part. He had not considered or found the problem, merely assumed replacement would cure the problem. (Twenty week GNVQ 'experts' again. They do not diagnose, but simply replace parts at your expense until the problem goes away.) I found the problem - they had not topped up the brake fluid for six years of regular 'support'. The system was cleaned, inspected, found to be perfect and was replaced and flushed. It works as good a new, for three pounds of brake fluid and two hours work.
Later, the carburettor diaphragm split and the local Vauxhall dealer said the parts were no longer available. This is the same carburettor as used on some Saabs and others, who had the part is stock.

Even when parts are not available, scrap yards can keep most vehicles running for decades. Sometimes the engine is not economically worth repairing, as a simple engine swap is often much cheaper than a rebuild. When this happens, the old engine can be stripped and checked to see whether it is scrap, suitable for practising on, or if it is a reasonable set of spares, or perhaps worth rebuilding at your leisure.

Scrap yards also offer headlights, tail lights, brakes, alloy wheels, doors and a whole lot of other stuff, including better seats.
Need a new set of tyres? try the scrap yards first, they will be cheaper and probably include a set of alloy wheels for no extra cost.

Routine maintenance.

Begin sensible maintenance before getting your hands dirty. To ensure the clutch lasts longer, do not ride on the clutch at traffic lights, but learn to wait with the clutch out and the gearbox in neutral. It is not difficult, any fool can do it.

Neither thrash the machine, so the power will be there when you really need it.

Do not rev the engine first thing in the morning, but give it time to get the oil circulating before destroying all the bearing surfaces. A decent engine should start on the choke and then idle happily.
Don't be like the moronic kid given a new car for his birthday, who revved the engine each morning to warm it up, and then wondered why he had managed to destroy the engine within three months. (The mechanics were surprised it lasted that long. - His mum used to wipe the windscreen with her diamond ringed fingers and wondered why she needed a new windscreen every year. Both were very rich and daft as a brush.)

With a reasonable engine, the oil should be changed regularly, usually every six months or whatever the manual recommends. Check the oil level every weeks for a couple of months, just to keep an eye on the investment.
Oil changes are not difficult, so warm the engine up with a short run, then drain the oil into a pan, while removing the oil filter. As the engine is warm, the old oil will flow easier, flushing out any excess debris before it has settled. It also makes handling the components on a cold day much warmer.
The oil filter is disposable and can be unscrewed without too much worry of damage. If a replacement is ready, a screwdriver can be pushed into the old filter to help it turn. Fill the new filter up with new oil and apply a little film of oil on the rubber seal. Tighten the filter as hard as you can by hand only. No tighter. Replace the oil filter drain bolt and tighten it snugly and firmly. Fill with new oil via the large rocker cover plug or cap, while checking with the dip stick. Do not overfill, so go slowly, as oil drains down slowly, even in warm engines.

Check the radiator system and coolant level. If the coolant is dirty, then it may be possible to use the garden hose to hose out the whole engine and radiator system.
Disconnect the bottom radiator pipe and remove the thermostat housing. Then flush through until the engine and radiator run clean. Refit pipes and replace thermostat housing seal with a little sealant, then fill with water and antifreeze. Antifreeze is important, otherwise your whole engine may not survive the first frosty night.

Ignition timing.
On electronic ignition systems, maintenance is rarely done. Most cars after 1990 have electronic ignition. Either it works or it does not.
Older cars use points. Points can go wrong and wear, but also delightfully easy and cheap to replace and repair. For points, first remove the rotor cover, springing the two side clips or screws to access the internals. The points look like a little metal arm which rubs against the central cam. The points which are the small electrical contact points, should not be too worn. Minor pitting or discoloration is acceptable. If there are pits, then clean the surfaces with a small strip of 'wet and dry' abrasive paper. Slide a piece of card between the points to remove any particles. Rotate the crankshaft until the points are fully open, then adjust to the recommended gap, usually 15 thou, about the same thickness as a single thickness of fag packet cardboard. Easy peasy.
Loosely refit the cover, to see which is the lead to spark plug No.1, which is usually the cylinder at the front, or the right side of the vehicle when sitting in it. Rotate the crankshaft slowly until the rotor arm points towards the plug lead for No.1 cylinder. Then check the fan belt pulley timing marks for static timing and line them up. there will be various marks on the engine block, so check with manual for the correct one. If in doubt, choose the middle mark if in an emergency situation, such as on the side of a road. Place a lamp between the points lead and the battery positive, then adjust the body of the distributor until the light just goes out. This will be very close, but if not, then carefully follow the guidance of the vehicles manual. Replace cover and wiring as found. Check by running the engine.
I have found that it is quite acceptable to line up the marks by pulling hard on the fan belt, then rotate the distributor body until the points just open and shut as seen by eye. This is surprisingly close, especially if you rotate it back and forth many times until you can just discern the closing point.
Strobe. For checking the advance curve and the sparks while the engine is running, a 'strobe' is needed. This is a powerful lamp which flashes when the spark occurs, causing the rotating parts of a running engine to look as if standing still. If too expensive, a 'timing light' is much cheaper but with equivalent lower performance, needing to be used in darker light levels. If preferring to try a simple alternative, a cheap or surplus neon mains warning bulb will do, and can be wired using HT leads directly in the spark plug HT circuit using parts from a broken plug cap. This can be brought close to the timing marks for easier vision. A neon bulb is the small warning light on 240volt kettles and mains sockets which glows red - not exactly brilliant, but very cheap and can do the job for pennies if insulated well. I solder mine to two lengths of HT cable and lots of insulating tape, with the neon in a clear plastic section of tubing.
Follow the vehicles manual for strobing the engine. You will probably have to disconnect the vacuum pipe to the advance unit on the distributor body.

Not all cars have adjustable valve clearances, some are hydraulically self adjusting, others need specialist tools. Some Japanese engines now need two days in the workshop to adjust the valve clearances.
On most cars with sensible designs with adjustable valve rockers, or 'tappets'. On four cylinder engines, place the car on a level road and in second gear with the brakes off. Remove the rocker cover. Push or pull the car back and forth until the two valves on the rear cylinder are tight, then adjust the front cylinder valves to the manufacturers settings, which are often on a plate or sticker in the engine bay. When set, move the car so the front two valves are tight, then adjust the rear. Then do the same sequence for the inner cylinders, numbers two and three. Replace components and run the engine to check.

Cam belt. this is usually considered unreliable after 30,000 miles. They are not expensive, but often hard to reach on larger engines. Follow the instruction in the manual, as all cars differ. Simple cars have simple replacement, but others are quite often specialist work, due to special tools. It does not take much effort to take the plastic cover off to have a look-see before you decide to be brave.

Carburettor. The carb rarely goes wrong, unless water or contaminants get in the fuel system. A little petrol additive helps keep it all clean and a little oil on the external moving parts does no harm. If suspect, use an in-line fuel filter with a paper element, then angle it so it also acts as a sediment and water trap.
I prefer a clear plastic fuel filter with a paper element. This shows up the dirt which collects on the outside of the paper to give a long term assessment of your system. Such filters cost pennies.

Replace the air filter when it gets very dirty, as they are cheap. A clean air filter reduces fuel consumption.

Spark plugs can be replaced every 12,000 miles or 24,00 if preferred, as modern plugs are surprisingly reliable. Always brush around the plugs to remove dirt before removal, as dirt can damage the threads. The plugs can be gapped, usually to 25 thou, or 30 thou for some electronic systems. If the outer bodies are badly rusted, or the electrodes are rounded, then they are probably due for replacement. Also check the plug caps for corrosion.

Gearbox. Usually sealed for life, but a quick check of oil level when first bought does no harm. Older car gearboxes should have the oil level checked each year.

Wheels and stuff. Check the tyre pressures and the condition of the spare tyre.
Brake components are surprisingly cheap and can be done by most people if the correct tools and a little thought are used. Always be wary of any brake dust, as it may contain asbestos. To untighten and later retighten a wheel nut, simply stand on the wheel nut spanner. The average weight of an adult is about right for a one foot long wheel nut spanner as supplied with most cars.
Just loosen the wheel nuts on one wheel while the handbrake is on and the wheel is on the ground. Then jack up the car and remove the wheel. Inspect the disc and pads. If a drum brake, remove the small retaining screw and pull the drum off. If the drum is stiff, then gently tap it all around with a rubber hammer and tease it off with a little care. Check brake shoes for wear. Check springs are intact, and not too badly rusted.

Place a little drop of oil on all bleed nipples, so they do not rust up and break off. Smear some grease into the ends of the nipples so they don't collect water.
If in doubt, most brakes can be serviced by the fast service car centres. Likewise exhausts.

Wiring and electrics. See the authors monograph 'A builders guide to motorcycle and trike wiring' available via my website, also applicable to most cars.

Rust. Get on top of any rust problems from the outset, and the car will last far longer. Lift up all the carpets and have a good look around ALL the car for rust, then attack without mercy. There is a wide range of anti rust paints available. Where holes appear, a little filler often suffices. You should NOT be buying any car with rusty holes, as this is a waste of time in the long run.

Drive carefully. (Also a form of preventative maintenance.)

Replacing a wheel.

If you are stuck far from anywhere and have a partially flat tyre or even a duff spare tyre, or no jack, then you will need to position the load such that there is almost no load on the offending wheel. This would usually be one of the rear wheels, as most engines are at the front. So you must place as much of the load and passengers as far as possible from the underinflated tyre. If the driver is on the right, then fit your worst tyre to the right rear of the car. This will not give good driving, but will at least allow you to get to the nearest garage.

Replacing a windscreen.

Decide which type of mounting it has. Either the modern glued in, or the older rubber seal. The older rubber seal is very easy. The modern glued form uses the windscreen as part of the structural design, allegedly to help improve stiffness of the chassis, (that and it's easier to fit in the factory.)

The rubber seal type is easy.
If a rubber seal type, go to the nearest scrap yard and buy a cheap replacement.
If the damaged windscreen is intact, then tape it up using a criss cross of masking tape. Then place a blanket or cloth or newspaper under the inside of the windscreen to prevent glass entering the air vents.
If any chrome strip, then remove this and place carefully on the roof to prevent it creasing.
Sit inside the car, either side of the gear stick, lean back and place a foot at the top corners of the windscreen, then carefully push.
If you are solo and in a steep fronted vehicle, then use lots of tape to prevent the windscreen falling to the ground.
If you want to keep the windscreen, then apply some grease or margarine or whatever around the inside of the rubber lips to help it out.
Pushing gently with the feet, the windscreen should pop out, slowly at the corners, then more easily for the rest. Remember that you are easing the rubber seal, so allow time for it to creep its merry way in the direction of the push.
Lots of small glass shards may fall into the newspaper and this needs cleaning up. If lots of little bits, then use sticky tape to mop up any loose bits. With the windscreen out, it is easier to get the vacuum cleaner in and around the nooks and crannies. Now remove the rubber seal and clean it up carefully.
Repair any rust spots around the windscreen area and such like.

Replacement.
Check the windscreen is the correct one, simply by seeing if it fits the aperture.
You will need a special tool. To make this, get a piece of ordinary string about eight feet long and tie a knot in each end. - Well done.
Place the rubber seal around the edge of the new windscreen, then place the string inside the other, inner slot of the rubber seal. The string should overlap itself at the bottom.
With one person holding and gently pushing the windscreen in position, or if solo, you keep both windows open and stand outside, to push against the outside of the windscreen with one hand while teasing the string out with the other. If two people, or a kid in the street to gently push, the other person gets inside and very slowly pulls the string to deform the inner lip of the rubber seal around and over the cars' metal frame.
Take your time and while lightly pushing the windscreen into the aperture from the outside, pull the string slowly and evenly from both sides, so the windscreen rubber sits in evenly. Eventually the string unravels the lip around the car frame and into position. It really is that simple.
I managed to do this many times by myself, by standing by the open door and pushing the windscreen from the outside while pulling the sting with my other hand, and working evenly from each side. I used some tape to keep the windscreen in place while moving from side to side. Once the base and bottom sides wee in place, then I climbed inside and eased the upper parts of the rubber seal in place with the continual, slow pull of the string.

Now fit a new rear view mirror using the special sticky pad, available from all car shops for about 50 pence. Clean the windscreen scrupulously before sticking the mirror bracket in place.
If a chrome strip in the rubber seal, then it will need to be replaced, which can be awkward rather than difficult. To help it back into the slot, it is possible to make an old wire coat hangar into a small spatula shape to help spread the rubber seal and allow the chrome strip to be replaced. Simply taking some time to tease it in using an old blunt screwdriver will often suffice.
The proceeding may have upset the windscreen washer nozzles. Check and if positioned badly, then they can be repositioned using a hat pin in the nozzle hole.

A typical car windscreen is about 15 quid second hand from a scrap yard, 25 quid new pattern, or 35 quid genuine part. Daft or posh car windscreens cost a lot more.

If you have some green or other tinted varnish, then you can graduate pray the inside of the windscreen before inserting, it into the rubber seal, for a very neat tinted, graduated sun shade. If you don't have a semi transparent paint, then lightly spraying with solid paint can be done to give a gentle and graduated tint. If you get it wrong first time, simply wipe it with paint cleaner and then give a very thorough cleaning before trying again.

Glued in type.
This will need a special tool. A cheese cutter wire is ideal, plus a nice, flexible, thin knife blade. Cut around the windscreen and chassis, to get the cheese wire in place and use this to cut around the windscreen to remove it.
Any cheese wire will do, - just a strand from an old push bike cable wrapped around two pieces of wood dowel will do to cut through the window sealant.
Clean up the old sealant, according to the new adhesive instructions. Cleanliness and preparation is everything. When all is prepared and adhesive applied, carefully fit the windscreen, preferably using two people. It may be easier to use kitchen suckers to help lift the windscreen into position just above the adhesive before positioning.
If doing this solo, then keep both front windows open, so you can juggle it from both sides. There may be a couple of hours or a days curing time.
Now fit a new rear view mirror using the special sticky pad, available from all car shops for about 50 pence. Clean the windscreen scrupulously before sticking the mirror bracket in place.
The proceeding may have upset the windscreen washer nozzles. Check and if positioned badly, then they can be repositioned using a hat pin in the nozzle hole.

I've glued in windscreens using the ordinary silicone sealant as used in bathrooms and for fish tanks. It was extremely difficult to remove the windscreen afterwards, - just as hard as the real thing. The tube of clear silicone sealant only cost a quid. But a black coloured silicone sealant would have made the seal far more cosmetically appealing. If the surround of the windscreen is printed with a black border, then you can usually get away with ordinary silicone sealant. Make sure it is silicone and not the cheaper, weaker stuff.

Cars go wrong and sometimes stop.  

Assuming you have a reasonable petrol powered car and it stops. The first thing is to think about the situation, have you filled up with fuel, have the handbrake on, or are you trying to pull away up hill in third gear, perhaps your recently divorced partner has put sugar in the fuel tank, - yes, people do stupid things.

If the starter does not work, then carefully hit the starter motor to free up the shaft, and try shorting out the wire from the starter switch, to make it turn, but first check the car is not in gear !
Most cheap batteries are good for about for about three or four years, so this may be worth replacement if it fails to start in the mornings.
Assuming you have treated the car well, then try starting it again three more times. No more than four seconds each burst. More than this and you will have to look for the obvious before you run the battery flat and have no chance to start the car.

(Some BM 's Mercs and Micras with fuel injection do not like being started for a few seconds, to move them a few feet, then shut off. Next time you go to start them, they won't start, as they are flooded. So always make sure you run any fuel injected BM's, Mercs and micras etc are run for a minute or so after, just to warm the engine through a little to prevent this problem. There is nothing wrong with the engine, its just flooded with petrol, and difficult to start. Try using the starter for a long time and very carefully play the accelerator pedal just a little until it stumbles into life.)

An engine needs three things to run.

For the usual problems of spark and fuel, you may be able to survive for another day with a spark plug spanner, a rag, a pair of pliers, some spare wire, gaffer tape, a small adjustable spanner and a double ended general purpose screwdriver. Total cost about a fiver. You may wish to add a torch (flashlight) if you do a lot of miles at night.

Sudden stops.
When a car suddenly stops for no apparent reason, it may well be a simple electrical problem. Look under the bonnet (hood) and make an initial visual and a hand check of the bits. Important places to check are the distributor and the fuel system.

If nothing looks amiss, remove a spark plug to check the spark and fuel. Place the spark plug, or a spare spark plug in the plug cap (on the end of the thick HT wire) on a metal part of the engine while you look at the tip of the spark plug for a blue spark, as a friend uses the starter switch.
If there is a small blue spark in the tip of the spark plug, then the problem may be fuel related.

Fuel can be checked by removing the spark plug and sniffing and to see if it is wet. If it smells like petrol, then fuel is probably not the problem.

Spark OK. No Fuel.
If the spark plug is wet, then the problem may be to much choke, as the engine is flooded with petrol. So start the engine with no choke and half throttle to try to clear out any excess petrol.

If the spark plug is dry and makes a good spark, then a further check of the fuel system is needed:
The fuel is simply drawn from the fuel tank through a pipe and then up to the fuel pump, which is mounted on the engine or a uses separate electrical pump. This then pumps the fuel to the fuel injectors or to the carburettor.
Remove the fuel pipe to the carburettor, turn the engine over for just a second or two on the starter to check if fuel is coming out of the pipe. If not, then probably the fuel filter is clogged, or the fuel pump is broken or the fuel line damaged or no fuel.
To quickly clean out a fuel filter, hit the fuel filter a few times, hoping this may dislodge enough dirt to allow some fuel through. If not, try to push a piece of wire through the filter or try to bypass the fuel filter as a temporary measure. It is for this reason that transparent fuel filters are cheap and easy to check - and replace !
If available, use a cycle pump to blow back down the fuel line from the fuel tank to the pump, to ensure the fuel line is not blocked. If brave, then blow back down through the fuel line to hear the bubbles emerging at the fuel tank.

If an electric fuel pump does not make any noise, check the fuse and the wiring. An electric fuel pump makes an occasional clicking sound as it pumps. So have a listen - it will click wildly if the fuel line to the carb is disconnected.
If an electric fuel pump does not pump petrol from the exit pipe, then remove the fuel pump end cap and see if the points have welded. In emergency, remove the fuel pump and gently prize the points apart if they are not totally trashed. Refit the fuel pipe first so fuel does not pump everywhere, and then switch on the ignition to check if the pump works properly.
If the fuel pump points have fused and you are totally desperate, then connect two wires across the opened points and touch the wires to open and shut the points to pump the fuel every five seconds or so. Initially you will have to flick the wires together many times to pump up fuel to the engine. If it works, bring the wires into the passenger compartment and continue while driving home or until you can make a proper repair.

If a mechanical fuel pump, as fitted directly to the engine, then repair by replacement is unlikely, unless you have a valve blockage in the type which can be disassembled. If it can be opened up, then have a look for anything which may be repaired. Otherwise, replace with a second hand electrical fuel pump.
A scrapyard can supply an electrical fuel pump which will work as a replacement for a mechanical or electrical fuel pump. Simply place in the fuel line, bypassing the mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Can be tied in place with string until you get home.

If desperate, such as in the middle of a desert, then you can supply fuel to a carburettor by fitting a plastic screen washer pipe to the carb and sticking it in a can of fuel held high above the carburettor, possibly lashed to the windscreen wipers or through a side window. You will have to syphon the pipe to get the fuel flowing first. If this works, then you can go many miles, but do not push your luck and always be careful of fire problems.

Fuel OK. No Spark.
Electrical problems are usually mechanical problems. Perhaps a wire has fallen off, corroded, or burn itself on the exhaust.
Start looking for obvious faults. Wiggle all the wires to see if they feel reasonable. Give them a little tug, as they may be loose in their connectors or corroded and may probably show up the simple problem. Dry all wet wires.
Many electrical problems are actually mechanical problems acting on electrics. - A broken wire, a damaged insulator, or such like.
NEVER remove all four spark plug leads at the same time. Only remove one at a time, then replace the before removing another, otherwise you may get them out of sequence.
Check and clean a couple of spark plugs. Check they all have gaps the size of post card thickness.
Look for corrosion.
If fitted, take off the distributor cap. It is the plastic cover which takes the five big thick wires to the spark plugs. It is often held by clips or small screws. Clean out the inside and then check the points. Points are rare, but they are a little lever which opens and shuts as the engine turns. you can turn the engine using the fan to see if the points open. If they do not open and shut as the engine turns, then turn the engine until the cam would open them and then adjust until the gap is the thickness of a postcard. Replace as found and try again.

Fuel OK. Spark OK.
If the fuel supply is OK and the spark is good, then there may be a problem with the carburettor or the timing may have slipped.
There is often a drain plug at the base of the carb, check to see if any water has got in through a contaminated fuel tank or heavy rain and no air filter. If suspect, remove the air filter, and the top of the carb for a cursory check, looking for any signs of excess dirt or water. Clean out as best as possible, but do not disturb too much. Pour a spoonful of fuel down the large inlet hole of the carburettor, then see if the engine runs.

If the ignition sparks seem OK, then the timing may have slipped. This will need a quick check of the distributor, where the five thick wires fit into. If the cap is loose, then fit it back as best as you can, If the body is loose, then while a friend tries to start the engine, rotate the distributor body slightly each way until the engine runs, then adjust the position so it runs well, then tighten it securely. Make an ignition timing check as soon as you can, preferably within ten miles or so.

Other things to check if it still does not run happily.
Punctured or ripped carburettor diaphragm. Classic symptom is that the engine will start and run, but no power. The diaphragm is a five quid rubber sleeve inside the top round cover of the carb which can be replaced in five minutes.
Clogged air filter. If it is dirty, remove it for a few hours use only.

Overheating.
Engines are cooled using water. If the cooling system fails, then the engine will get hot and overheat.
It is assumed you keep an eye on the temperature gauge. When it gets too hot, simply park and allow it to cool down while you do a cursory check. Main problems are a broken fan belt, sticking thermostat, or a damaged cylinder head gasket, or leaking coolant system. If leaking, use radiator sealant and top up, then drive slowly home.
If a broken fan belt, a pair of tights/pantihose can be tied into a belt over the Vee pulleys. If not available, then a few turns of string or anything which will last long enough for a few miles or more.

If a sticking thermostat, which prevents the coolant from flowing, then the thermostat can be removed as a temporary measure, but it will need spanners and some spare water, plus some chewing gum or other sealant to seal the damaged thermostat gasket. If no gasket, then simply keep topping up the coolant from any water supply until you reach safety. In total desperation, then remove the bonnet (hood) let the engine cool down, then drive carefully for no more than two minutes until the engine core has cooled down again. In such cases, you need only need to run the engine to get up a hill, then switch off and coast downhill.

Nasty noises.
Always keep an ear open for engine noises. If they get worse, try to get somewhere safe, then diagnose carefully. If lucky, it is sometimes it is just a rattly exhaust, a broken bracket, loose fan, or such like, If not, then don't take too many chances.

Brakes.
If the brakes fail then use the hand brake, Then use the engine as a brake, by changing down to a lower gear, such as second or first gear, and use the hand brake to stop.
Switching off the engine while it remains in gear also makes a passable brake, but only if you do not have power steering.
If truly desperate, then use a hedge or a wall to drive against to slow down the car if you are on a steep hill.
If the brakes fail completely, then park somewhere safe. If the brakes are marginal, check the brake fluid level. Top up with brake fluid or any fluid if desperate, then repair as soon as possible. Use the handbrake only to stop, otherwise drive slowly, avoid all hills and change down using the gears.

Cars general:
As society increasingly becomes totally dependant upon a few, we may end up with a sticker on the bonnet sating 'no user serviceable parts inside'. By this time, most people will be consumer sheep, fit only to graze in malls. Luckily, some people still manage to repair their own cars.
A friend of my sisters bought her first car and proudly showed it to us. I asked her if she knew how to change a tyre, as I was about to do so on another car, and so I took her through the procedure. That week, while taking friends out to a party, she had a puncture. Her shallow friends said they would catch a taxi, rather than help. She decided to stay and replace the spare wheel, getting there just ten minutes later without getting dirty hands.
While most people now sit by the side of the road waiting for help, others may simply lift the bonnet and at least look for anything obvious.

Remember that if you are stuck in the middle of nowhere, then even a few simple and basic ideas can get you out of trouble.

Remember that most faults are not very difficult and you may be on your way before the rescue truck arrives. It happens just enough to make the effort worthwhile, and you have nothing to loose.- Just don't mess anything such that it cannot be repaired enough to get home.

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If interested further, here's some other monographs by me. As you read them , please consider giving me a job please. My last boss told me I did thrice the work of the last draughtsman, - pity the pay was minimum.

A Beginners Guide to Building your own Computer.
How to make your own 170 quid designer glasses for two quid.
How to walk. A beginners guide to the outdoors.
Teach yourself to swim.
Look after your teeth.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle, Trike and Car Wiring.
A Builders Guide to Motorcycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Trike Design.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics. Basics.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics. Intermediate.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics. Advanced.
A Builders Guide to Composite HPV Cycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Composite Motorcycle Design.
A Builders Guide To Survival Knife Design.
A Builders Guide To Survival Kit Design.
A Builders Guide To Camper Van Design.
A Builders Guide To Basic Wind tunnel Design.
Stonehenge and spanners.
Simple alternative electronic ignition.
Easy life. Bikers touring guide.
Future dreams. Short story.
Aliens. Short story.
A couple of short stories and lots of other stuff.

Coming soon.
A 4 CD Guide to Dartmoor.
Home Schooling Curricula, - Maths, English , Science, Technology. 11 to 16 yrs.
An unemployed guide to Jobcentres and the evils of Working Links.
How British employers can find skilled British staff. Engineers, scientists, teachers. (No need for immigrants!)

Other stuff which could be published include:
A degree level course in motorcycle design.
A lateral look at innovation. From Polynesian monkey traps to BV141.
An approach to preventing design stagnation in small businesses. Early draft.
A history of motorcycle design, its roots and future, a 1990 draft basis of a thesis on motorcycle development.
Ergonomics and control possibilities for single track vehicles. Early draft.
Building the Future: Development possibilities for single track vehicles. Compilation.
Fundamental corporate design stagnation and the rise of the car cup holder.
Social hurdles leading to the failure to find qualified staff. A few case histories.
The music of Henry Purcell.
Reading between the lines: DNA and archaeology.

Begging.
Begging is the bottom line of this work. Being just one of the many long term unemployed English science graduates with a strong engineering background in nuclear, marine and other spheres, the author would like a job. A job teaching engineering or creating composite machines would be most tempting.

Most of the vast numbers of 'begging bowl innovators' have ideas, so please help. British venture capital is unfortunately an oxymoron, a joke comparable with our railways and education system. Funding is needed, so please help. If you are embarrassingly rich, please be so kind as to offer sponsorship.

The author would like a job. Please consider this monograph a CV.

Thanks,
John. Partridge. B.Ed. B.Sc. etc.

Always try to improve society rather than just take from it. Until then, lawyer stuff. Copying, duplication or transmission of this material whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the author. The contents of this text are for illustrative purposes only. Errors and omissions excepted. Contents subject to change without notice. All material herein is subject to copyright, patent and other intellectual property rights. All rights reserved. Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 2003.