Please note: In these days of litigation taking the place of natural justice, it is necessary that those wishing to read the monograph must understand that they must not, nor will ever hold the author responsible for any damage or injury. I put my knowledge on the web to help make a better world, not so that some damn fool can sue me.
As lawyers get richer the rest of society gets poorer. Always use your vote to keep lawyers out of politics. Have a nicer day :)

Introduction.

Today, many people use computers as just another tool, or for games.

In the world of computing, ignorance can get very expensive.
Expensive in cost, expensive in time and expensive in frustration.

If you don't think computers will be used in the next few decades, the there is probably no need for you to learn how to live with them. But if you think computers may be around for a while, then it's best to be win control of them, rather than considering them as an annoying box of hassle.

The least expensive solution is to learn just how easy it is to take control and to repair your own computer.

You don't have you know it all, but the basics are not difficult, and will always make your life easier when things eventually go wrong. This webpage describes how to find a computer for free or for sensible money, or for those who want to build their own machine.
In the last decade, building a computer has become no harder than many kiddies building kits. It is now so easy that the very best, fastest and most reliable computers are often built on the kitchen table in a couple of hours.

Once you have bought or built a good computer, then learn how to install your software sensibly, safely and reliably, then to look after the computer and printer for minimal hassle and low costs in the following years.

Eventually it may go wrong. Perhaps the power supply is faulty so the computer will not start. Or your hard drive fails and you need a replacement. The costs are either to make a guess as to the problem, based on simple facts, or to send it to a repair shop. The shop will charge you plenty for their time and then sell you a power supply at full price. Or you can take a gamble and buy a power supply or hard drive at a far more sensible price, then see if it was indeed the problem. If not, then you are still a few pounds up, as you did not have to pay the shop. At least you have eliminated your first candidate for the fault. You are probably a week ahead of the shop in diagnosing the fault, and not waiting around being fobbed off with endless excuses.

Computers and Software ALWAYS goes wrong at some time.
You may wish to consoder why high street shop computers do not make home repair easy for you. With some simple knowledge, the reader becomes independent of the scams and support services so badly reputed by all the high street shops and discount warehouses.

Many people will be wary of building their own machine, but this is not rocket science. If you can use a screwdriver and are not ham fisted, then have a go. A free working, discarded computer can be taken apart and rebuilt to test your skills. You can buy DIY computer kits with decent processor, motherboard, memory, case and hard drive for just 99 pounds. A second hand 17 inch screen is 15 quid. Second hand mice and keyboards are just a quid a piece. Have fun.

Whether buying or building a computer, this page can save you at least a hundred quid. That works out at 100 pounds an hour saved. I helped many ordinary people to save much more than this. So can you.

You don't have to know it all, and it's always here for you to read later, should you need it. When your software needs backing up, or you want to reinstall, or to replace a hard drive or whatever, this website is here to enable you to have a try first.

Most people replace their computer every three years or so. They usually make the same mistakes every time. If you back up your important work regularly, then you have nothing to loose, and so much to gain, especially independence, time and money. Most important of all, you are capable of repairing and upgrading the machine yourself, which is far more cost effective and often simple: Unless you think computers are just a fad, then this knowledge is definitely worthwhile in the many years ahead.
You may even find it interesting and rather fun. - From six years old to 60, millions do.

The trap:

For the same money of this cheapo machine, I could certainly build a much better, faster machine, but buy a larger and far better second hand screen, and I would still have plenty of money left over for a really decent printer. I would still have to pay about 400 pounds, but at least I will have a machine which is capable of proper upgrading. More importantly, I'd have a faster and far more stable machine, a full copy of windows and the sound knowledge that I can repair both hardware and software if it eventually goes wrong.
I would also be about a hundred quid better off if I used just a little common sense.

Even if you still intend to buy from the high street, then you will be far better off knowing what it is that you are getting into, as there are many other traps as mentioned later.

You.

Whether you are looking for a FREE computer or anything up to spending 700 quid, you CAN, indeed should save money and be free of the many computer repair scams.

There are scams to fleece the punter of their cash -
There are scams on the whole machine, packaged up to look far better than it really is.
There are scams with not very good software, and bells and whistles no one ever needs nor uses.
There are scams on hardware, selling you 'fast' processors crippled by awful support chips.
There are scams on 'support services' and far worse.
There are scams on printers which are really cheap, but cost a fortune in inks.
There are scams on mice, keyboards and such like, with identical or better items being available for half the cost.

The average person has plenty enough common sense and skills to build their own computer. If you have read this far, then you are capable of building your own machine and probably far more intelligent than some of the monkeys employed in many computer shops. With a little help, a six year old can build a fully working computer.

You may not only wish to save a few hundred pounds, but far more importantly become independent from support staff. The staff often have little or no interest of fixing your machine after you have coughed up your cash.
Some firms don't even fix the machines themselves, but shop it out to others. Some machines even get lost in the system forever. As for getting your money back, then the horror stories are enough to fill a dictionary.

If you want to be suckered, then at least make sure the salesperson tells you all you need to know.
In most cases, the high street machines will work well enough, but they are not the best available, usually being built down to a price, then hyped back up with advertising.
If it comes with free printer and camera, then be VERY wary, you will probably be better off not bothering with them as they may not be as useful as you would like.

If you intend to spend 700 pounds or more in the high street, then read this first.
If you only have 100 pounds in your pocket, or just tuppence! then read on.
If you have two or three hundred pounds and want to make the most of it, then welcome.
Welcome to the common sense world of computing for all.

Me: I've used computers as a hobby and professionally for twenty years, technology teacher, draughtsman and engineer. I began in 1980's through machine code assemblers, ZX81, BBC, 386. 486 to the latest Pentiums and 939 Athlons. Written programmes from scratch in various computer languages and presently playing Call of Duty and Far Cry. Computing has come a long way and I look forward to the next thirty years.

Along the way I've had problems and they're common to everyone using a computer. Add a B.Ed in technology and a B.Sc. in design and computing, so I've learnt a few bits and bobs, plus building and repairing far too many machines to count.

There is an awful lot of nonsense in the computer industry. After decades, I am still amazed by the levels of absolute twaddle. Here is my viewpoint, and like all other 'experts', should always be taken carefully. Always make up your own mind, not that of the internet or of sales staff.

You (not someone else) should decide the most cost effective computer for YOU. You will be surprised just how much money you do NOT need to spend !
I still flinch at the daft money most people are fleeced of. Two friends have spent about 900 pounds in a popular computer mega store and upon looking inside, the components are a disgrace. A large tower case, with a high specification processor, fitted to a terrible micro ATX motherboard with highly suspect bios, where even changing the hard drive causes the system to crash and with an atrocious graphics ability. The processor was a racing engine in a horse driven cart. Good for hyping up the CPU speed by sales staff to sell to idiots with money, but who simply have no idea. This machine could have been built far faster and better for about half the price. for the same price, a truly stunning machine could have been built.
The only reason such machines are checked is because they stop working or grind to a slow hobble. Most are poorly configured by the manufacturers, and crash after getting the likes of over 200 viruses, Trojans and data miners. Many are a real mess within just a few months of purchase. The owner would have done a lot better and safer by installing their own software.
After cleaning out the mess, installing some standard free software to protect the system, then some basic tweaking of the system to match the hardware, these machines run much faster than when first bought.
All too often, the typical high street punter really has no clue. Such stories are all too common today - and it's getting worse !

I have seen far too many people ripped off. I and many others offer advice, but they always end up buying high-street crap. I and many others often end up sorting it out, if they learn the errors of their ways. The real idiots I don't help any more.
Please do not fall into the same trap.

If you are like me, a typically poor Brit, then please read this first, as computing can be free. If you are rich, then also read on and please always pass on your old machine to others.
As just one of the tens of thousands of long term unemployed British science graduates with a strong engineering background being wasted in Blairs Britain, begging is of course, the bottom line of this work. Please consider this monograph a slightly blatant C.V.

Such a machine may indeed be perfectly suitable for most people, but only for a while, as it is using budget components. So please be careful, as a high street machine is only a way to a reasonable specification machine.

For a high specification machine, build it from scratch.
For low cost computing, then consider second-hand ex corporate machines.

If you do buy a high street machine, you probably want to modify it yourself later, if you feel brave enough to break the 'warranty void if broken ' sticker.
For the same money, you can be far more selective and a new cheap system is a good starting point if you don't want to buy all the bits yourself. Although the cost will be the same, at least you will be in charge of the situation. The high street machines usually work, but if things go wrong, then don't expect to easily get it repaired by the shop.

Please Note: The prices quoted here for buying your own parts are those normally found through highly reputable computer shops selling through popular magazine adverts. Trying to find parts in the high street for these prices is unlikely, because most small shops simply don't have the ability to buy in such numbers to keep prices low.

If wanting to play with computers for fun and a good day-to-day working knowledge of how they are built and maintained, then do it yourself. Playing with computers is affordable mildly challenging, is not dirty and not heavy and allows you to upgrade your machine as and when you want.
They do not bite.

The most important aspect of this web page is that YOU build the machine and install the software yourself.
You will then become independent when things go wrong. - And things always go wrong in computing, from failed chips or power supply, to incompatible or dodgy software or viruses, to the hamster chewing thorough the monitor lead or coffee spilt into the machine.
Being able to sort this out yourself is the most important skill. It saves a lot of time, money and hassle.

Being able to build your own computer will save you from a hellava lot of (high street) hassle in the years ahead.

A few friends have high street machines and they have all asked me for help. - This help is often the simple stuff you learn by doing it yourself. Hence this web page.

First, protect yourself.
Computers can cause unseen trouble.
First, they are notorious for wasting a lot of everyone's time, so do not get drawn towards computers when bored - always go for a walk, or do some painting or DIY.
Secondly, Police may use your computer to prosecute you, even if innocent - The 'Blunkett effect' - blind bureaucracy gone mad. It's a sorry society indeed that such a paragraph needs to be written, but such is the state of Britain and most of the world today, when the police immediately grab computers looking for anything to support police fantasies of everyone as a criminal: Perhaps the kids have accidentally found a dodgy website, or a Trojan, data miner, virus or other programme which has infested your machine with a bomb making site, or porn or incorrect political crap. Most crap I've removed is found on computers bought on the highstreet.

Far too many people never know what infests their machines and the horror stories are not only true, but far more prevalent than you'd expect.
If this happens, then be wary of the dreaded 'Blunketts under the bed'. There are still far too many cases of wrongful imprisonment and overzealous, statistic driven police. You can no longer be sure about your status, even as a law abiding citizen, as the police are now considered as chasing statistics rather than chasing criminals. As with ID cards, you are now a statistic, not a person. Although this is obviously the wrong approach for any open and free society, it's always best to be safe rather than sorry. Protect yourself. So in a world of computers, you must learn to protect yourself from modern 'police ethics'. - It is not to say that everyone could become a criminal in some way, - just that it worth a little effort to be cautious and protect yourself. As mentioned later, always use virus checkers, anti spam, worm, data miners and protect from other malarkey happening 'out there'.
When you have problems or just worries, it is always best to know what to do and these are described later in the internet and decommissioning sections.

Please don't be overly worried, - just be wary and follow simple, sensible advice as mentioned later and always vote for, and support a genuinely free and far more sensible society.

Second, protect your wallet.
The market for computers is now flooded. Computers are now very cheap, easy to build, repair and maintain. So it is very easy to protect your wallet from dodgy sales staff. This site is here for all, from those with a few pennies to those with millions.
See below for the most cost effective computer for YOU. You will be surprised just how much money you do NOT need to spend !

Keep your eyes open. There is a reputable advert (dec 2005) selling a self build, basic unit for under 100 quid, and a 400 watt case, hard drive, cooler, motherboard and 3.0 gig Athlon 939 processor for 185 quid. Add 30 quid for memory, 70 to 150 quid for a reasonably fast graphics card and add a second hand monitor, then you have a very fast computer gaming system, equivalent to any expensive high street machine costing three times the price. The same advert offers the same with a Sempron 64 bit 3.0 gig 754 chip with onboard 9600 graphics for 150 quid. The present market place is awash with opportunities for truly fast machines for comparative pennies.

TIP: You will see computers for over a thousand pounds and for the specifications, you will indeed need to pay a lot to build such a specification, perhaps as much as 500 to 600 pounds. But a lot is hidden. - The differences in processor speeds near the faster specifications, say between a 3.2 gigahertz and a 3.8 gigahertz processor can be twice or even three times the cost, yet deliver almost imperceptible differences in speeds. -
You can get a reasonably suitable machine using a 3.0 gigahertz processor for half the cost, and certainly a third the cost of the expensive machine. The savings can then add a truly decent graphics card to play the top games far more efficiently, and faster with far less cost.

It's like a recipe; you do not need the most exotic flour, if the cherries and icing are third rate.
With reasonable flour, and getting the mix right, then making it with care, you can make a truly superb cake.

Unlike cooking, you don't need years of experience or skill to make the best cake.

Buying a really high specification machine for ridiculous money, believing that it is less likely to become out of date, is always a waste of time and a popular con by sales staff. They ALWAYS become out of date !
So do NOT play the daft numbers game and knock your aspirations back a couple of notches. Save your money should it be needed in the next year or two for a much faster machine at much less cost, when the costs have dropped.
Quite frankly, only the rich or fools pay loads for a machine.
The money you can save, - probably around half the cost, - is better spent on upgrading, or a better machine next year when you may, or may not need the speed, or decent camera or super printer.
Staying a year behind the cutting edge will not make much perceptible difference, - it is a modicum of sensible upgrading that keeps your computing speeds high and your wallet intact.

Laptops.
These look great and convenient, until you have to live with them. Unless you really need a loptop, don't bother. They need to be recharged or connected to the mains if using for more than a few hours. The keyboards are cramped and small for writing and the graphics are usually pitiful for games. Unless you desperately need portability, then don't bother.
Unless you work on the train, or bus or on the beach, then it is far cheaper to have a computer at home and work, with a key-ring USB memory device to carry your work with you.

Repairs of laptops is very expensive and many are simply discarded due to exorbitant costs. I have repaired many laptops and still own a couple, but never bother to use them except as data gathering devices when testing my bike chassis.
Upgrading a laptop in the future is almost impossible, other than a larger hard drive or extra memory, but no graphics upgrades. Few if any faster processor upgrades. If you must have a laptop, then buy a second-hand, ex - corporate laptop and expect to replace it every three years or less as the rechargeable battery replacements and other bits get harder to find. I often end up modifying or making my own nicad power packs for a laptop machine I rarely use.

This monograph is about home computers, and these can have many surprisingly cheap upgrades for a long and useful life. If you know very little about computing, then learn the basics and save money.

For cost effectiveness, a new 200 pound system with a second hand monitor is about half the speed of a 1,000 pound high street computer. This may sound slow, but is rarely perceptible, as most computer users do not need the speed of either machine. For most word processing, even a free computer is just as fast.As I write this web page, I could do it on my ancient 486, with no perceptible loss in speed or effectiveness, and upload it to the internet just as fast as any modern machine.

For games and video power and speed, a thousand pound machine in the high street is NEVER as good as a seven hundred pound machine built on the kitchen table at home. When you build your own, you can have a really good graphics card rather than the inevitably mundane graphics supplied on the high street. You will also have a vastly wider and far better range of superb cases which are excellent for upgrading and you can get to choose the latest 939 Althon processors and over - clockable memory. With the savings, you can also get to choose a really good printer, sensible scanner and get a really decent digital camera for your money.

As you read through, remember that almost all computers in use at present are at least a year or two behind the latest technology. So when specifying your own, then the cost of the appropriate machine is probably a lot less than you expect.

A short history to put things in perspective.

The first PC leading to the present machines was the IBM personal computer, circa 1980, using the 8086 chip. It ran at about 1 MHz with 1/16th megabyte of ram, using DOS operating system and Lotus 123 spreadsheet. Software came on 5-1/4 inch floppy disc, whose case would later be perfect for the then unknown CD.
Then came the 286, 386, 486, then the pentium 1, 2, 3, and today the 4 series.
Typical specs along the way were: a 386/25Mhz with 2 megs of memory and a 40 megabyte hard drive. Pentium 2/266Mhz, 32 megs memory and 400 megabyte hard drive and early 3D gaming graphics cards.
Since the 386, other manufacturers made processors, and fell by the wayside, with just Intel and AMD being still in the game, and in my opinion, the leader at present with their superb dual core 939 processors.

IBM made compatibility a core requirement and you can still run the early programmes on the latest machines. You can still run the earliest DOS and windows on the latest 939 Athlons.
Software has remained mainly DOS, windows or Linux.
Dimensions of motherboards are now ATX, a modern version of the original AT format. Even the modern power supply screw mounting holes remain identical to 1980 specs.
Running ancient DOS 2 and lotus 123 on a modern machine is almost instant, showing that the later software programmes have seriously slowed down the faster computers. (If a 'lean' windows compatible operating system - without the bells and whistles was available, then someone would make billions.)

During the life of the 386, windows became worthwhile with version 3.1 and the modern small floppy disc was also born. By this time, most businesses were commonly using such machines, and the process of discarding machines en-masse every few years to 'upgrade' commercial systems began to make cheap machines available to all. Then Philips invented the incredibly versatile CD and we've never looked back.

With early pentium chips, windows grew up with the 95, then the 98 version, the ME - Millennium Edition, 2000 and now XP. Today, the pentium 4 and AMD Athlon chips running windows XP has become universal.

Most of the worlds largest corporations, governments and internet servers use UNIX or its close cousin, Linux operating system. Linux is a much more universally adaptable version of UNIX, comparable to windows professional, and free to all, for governments to ordinary people, yes, free.

In 2005, the computer is becoming a very adaptable all singing, all dancing operating system, with home entertainment system, as well as being an office machine.
(Only the British government continues to have real problems with computer reliability and lack of correct information storage. - Police, CSA etc, etc. If you like real horror stories, read up on modern government computing.)

Software too, has a long history, with the beautiful Ada Lovelace being one of the first to study this area. (See right.)
Today, software is not all about making money, in fact there is a widening and massive choice for all. A good starting point is www.office.org where the Linux community have software for both Linux and windows, and some of the greatest selection of truly world class and superior software for free !

Somewhere in this long history is a computer for you.

Corporate morality vs freedom.
The only areas of real concern are in the morality of some programmes and software houses. For example, Micrisoft and Google allow China to filter out words such as freedom, democracy and such like from their internet servers. So you may wish to refuse to use these until they help towards a truly free and moral world. (This website may be filtered from China, simply because these words are in this text.) It is believed that 60 people are in jail in China for running web pages which do not agree with Chinese officials :(
If you want freedom for all, then freedom must always be fought for, and if Microsofdt and Google sell out our freedoms then they may be welcome in the USA White House :(
But for people with higher morals, these are probably not the sort of people you would not want to associate with, nor let your children play with.
Don't worry, there are plenty of options out there, such as, Linux for operating systems and Open Office for software. For browsers; Firefox, Altavista and many more specialised software is globally available :)

You do not need a fast machine to access the internet. The internet has been around since before the days of 386 computersand that means the last ice age or thereabouts.
Likewise, if you are only in need of word-processing for writing letters and the occasional book, then even a free, discarded 486 will just about suffice. Word processing has been around since the beginning, and is NOT a modern marvel needing a the latest machine.
The same word procesing programme (Ami Pro 3) I used on my 386, I still use on XP in 2006 on an Athlon 64, and it's still faster, easier and better than the bloated, fat and sluggish modern rubbish. I have the later wordprocesors too, but am not impressed one jot.

A free printer is also highly probable, as many discarded inkjet printers are still excellent. I have a free, discarded inkjet printer and it prints very good photos. See lots more about printers later.
In the decadent western world, where many people have more money than sense and no repair skills, you can usually search out an internet capable computer, including monitor and a printer for free. Yes, for free. Over the last few years, I have picked up three free computers capable of internet access. I also retain a large library of both old and modern software.

Software:
A computer is only as good as its operating system, the core software which makes it work. I still use an operating system called Windows 98SE. You can guess when it first appeared. (1998) With it, millions of people still access the internet quite happily, use digital cameras and loads of other stuff and can play Free Cell and Call of Duty.

On ye windows 98SE CD be ye following advice:
'Make sure that your computer is powerful enough. You'll need at least a 486DX of 66 megahertz (MHz) processor and 24 megabytes of RAM. . . . . Make sure you have enough free hard disk space. A typical installation requires 205 MB to 260 MB of hard disk space, but may range between 190 MB to 400 MB, depending on your system configuration, the options you . . '

This 486 specification is seriously ancient. You can't even give these machines away: A modern computer is about 3,000 MHz, about 40 times faster, plus an 80 fold increase in hard drive space plus a memory increase of 10 times.

Computers with half the modern specification are now dumped on a regular basis, even though they have three or more years of good internet surfing and games and work left in them.

With such low specifications still able to do excellent work, you may wish to seriously consider why are you told to buy an overly expensive high street machine to access the internet or play games or office use. Don't get ripped off. - Look upon your choices as a sliding scale, from an adequate, FREE machine, up to that unnecessarily expensive machine.
Somewhere between your minimum needs and today's overly expensive toys, there is most definitely a suitable computer for you.

This monograph is here to help you choose what you need. And if you want, to build something sensible and appropriate, to describe that somewhat vague area in the middle you should understand to save money and become independent.

Most people wanting just basic internet and emails and make a CD photo collection, most will be happy with anything from a free 133MHz computer, or perhaps a new, home built 2.5 GHz system for about 250 quid. If you don't believe a modern spec NEW computer can be made for well under 300 pounds, then read on, as it only took me three hours and cost 280 quid in parts !

Free.
If buying on a tight budget, then your ideal machine range starts from absolutely free.
Ask around for an old FREE 133Mhz or faster, or what you can sensibly afford or need, as most ex-corporate machines stacked high as second hand, are around 500 to 900 Mhz and sold from 50 quid.
This website was written and maintianed until recently using an ancient, six year old P133 computer running windows 98SE and included my emails. But be warned, you will not be able to play the fastest games, nor manipulate your photo collection too quickly. But the machine WILL access the internet and do all the basics, including many games, a decent office suite, word processor, printing, viewing your digital and film photo collection and 'burn' them onto CD and such like.

Even on an ageing computer which runs 98SE, simply add a PCI USB card for a tenner to use the latest printers and digital cameras and then buy a 10 quid CDRW to store the digital photos on CD. If you have a large photo collection, then using a 30 quid scanner is also a boon, or a dearer scanner with specialist negative scanner to get the best results. You may have to use the CD rewriter at about half speed on a really slow machine, such as a 133 to 600 Mhz, but for mere pennies, this is more than acceptable for all but those in a real hurry.
Even a three year old, second hand, 500 to 900 Mhz computer for 50 to 100 quid is fast enough for most things.
If you want really cheap computing, then it IS available - just ask friends if they are throwing away their old computer. Simply ask to take if off their hands. You should be able to get a really nice basic and effective system. You can then access the internet for free. If you gather a few old systems, then you can choose the best monitor, computer and keyboard and probably a printer too.

When getting a free computer, always ask for the operating system CD, which is usually windows 98SE or ME. If they cannot find the old windows CD, then read later, about how to make your own legitimate copy. If the screen and printer are being discarded, grab them too.
See also: Bringing an old computer back to life, later in this monograph.

Even if you want to buy new, then you can still save loads of your hard earnt cash, as buying or even building a good computer is not all that difficult.

The difficult part is NOT purchasing a machine the high street.
I and most experts will never buy a computer in the high street shop. Buying in the high street is all too easy. Some people get a three year delayed payment and if they default just one payment, then have to pay three times the value of the purchase to cover interest. So NEVER get delayed payments. ALWAYS pay using a bank or visa card, so it is covered. You have one years standard warranty and rights of fitness for purchase. So do not take out extended warranties. Try the support centre first, to see if they exist or answer phones promptly and in reasonable English. I only recommend a sensibly priced 'one year on site warranty' for those who are terrible at fixing things. Be very very careful: If in any doubt don't !

Even when the cost of identical machines is the same from the high street or if buying parts to build at home, the home version still has many advantages. You get a vast choice of case designs. Your CD copy of windows if a genuine copy, not a 'backup disc'. You are free to open up the case to repair it at home and you know how to repair it and install software when things go wrong.
The most affordable, nicest and most reliable computers are those built at home on the kitchen table one quiet Sunday afternoon.

Unlike the vast number of overpriced boxes available in high street shops, it is the components which make the difference. Then it's how well you install and configure the software. Even the high street shops machines do not bear too much scrutiny. Unfortunately, most customers know little about computers and are quite happy to accept the advice of sales staff. What they get, they usually deserve.
There are many shops which will sell you an expensive piece of poo. It is common consent by many who build their own computers, that the fancy computer you are sold in the high street for 500 pounds can be built at home for 300 pounds. The 1,000 quid machines are often a joke and better far machines can be built for much less. You can build a top gaming machine for about 700 pounds, which uses 939 and X1800, super-cooled, over-clocked and raided.

Many staff in computer shops do not have the foggiest idea what's inside a computer. - Many of us unemployed science graduates play 'quiz the sales staff'. The frightening stories about certain large computer shops beggar belief, until you experience them for yourself. I bale out far too many customers who have trod this path.
Britain still remains full of awfully incompetent sales staff, pretty boys and girls, but oh so dumb.

Do it yourself, it is NOT rocket science.
The best experts are unemployed. Many like me are mature enough to have been using computers for over twenty years. There are tens of thousands of us who are unemployed, so just ask, we will be only to glad to help. I usually help one or two a week and payment is usually 'a cuppa tea and perhaps a biscuit'.
You don't need a science degree, - I can get six year olds to build computers !

The monograph is rather long because there is much of interest and usefulness. Unfortunately, many do not want to get too involved. So here's a quick guide:

Decide what computer system you want.

FREE:
If you want a free computer, then ask around for a discarded computer about 200 MHz with 64 megs of memory (ram) and a basic CD drive. Look for windows 98 and preferably the original CD. Ideal for word processing and spreadsheets, many games and some photo work.
With windows 98SE, it should be able to access the internet using a 20 quid serial port 56k modem and a standard phone line.
Consider adding a 10 quid CDRW to save your work and photos onto a CD, and also a 5 quid PCI card with USB ports, so you can use modern printers, scanners and digital cameras.
Lookout for second hand memory to bang it up to 128 megs for a fiver.

TIP: You can now buy a good 17 inch monitor for 15 quid - I recently bought two.
A keyboard and mice are usually about a quid a piece second hand. You can always upgrade any component if needed at a later date.
New printers need a USB connector on the computer. Free older printers should be tried and repaired first, but do not pay more than a fiver, possibly a tenner if you have seen it working. See printers, later.

CHEAP:
If a cheap computer, then get a second hand 500 to 900 Mhz ex-business system with at least 128 megs of memory for about 50 to 100 pounds, with windows ME or 98SE and a CD drive. This can do most things well except the fastest games.
Will be able to access the internet using a PCI or USB modem and phone line or via broad band.
Add a 10 quid CD re-writer or a 35 quid DVD re-writer and a 30 quid graphics card for moderate gaming.
If the machine only has 64 megs of memory, then get the shop to fit another 64 megs for about a tenner, or do not buy the machine.

It is usualy NOT worth buying a second hand machine over 150 quid, as this money can go towards building your own new, budget system. So:-

NEW:
If starting to spend more than 150 pounds, the cheapest is a new basic 'base unit' for about 150 pounds, then add 10 quid for a CDRW and 60 quid for windows XP, and 15 quid for a second hand monitor screen.

Once you have a budget computer, you will probably consider upgrading to a faster motherboard and processor, and memory. It's a sort of addiction for speed, so do not become addicted, simply build a new machine in about a year or so, and keep the present one to learn on and learn more, so the next machine will be nigh on perfect.
If you want the best bang per buck, then always build your own.

Lay new motherboard out on the packing foam to protect it. Check for any jumpers and read the accompanying manual.
Lift socket arm and fit processor in socket, holding carefully by the edge.
Use a small blob of heat transfer compound on the processor. Carefully fit heat sink and fan.
Insert memory and fit hard drive and floppy cables.
Remove power supply if it is easier to fit motherboard. Remove any panels in the case which obstruct the motherboard.
Check alignment and then fit motherboard on the clips or studs supplied with the case.
Work out best places for hard drive and CD drives.
Check the hard drive jumper is set to master. Set the CD drive as slave. (other options-see below)
Fit primary drive cable to hard drive and CD drive.
The end floppy connector goes to the floppy drive.
Insert any graphics and or sound cards if used.
Connect CD sound cable to motherboard or sound card.
Connect USB sockets, and the case lights and switches to motherboard power switch and hard drive and power lights. The lights are LED's - check polarity using motherboard manual.
Refit power supply if removed. Connect power supply cables to motherboard, hard drive, floppy and CD drives.
Leave the side of the case off.
Connect monitor, keyboard and mouse.
Read the manual again and double check all is correct.
Double check all is correct again.
Switch on monitor.
Switch on computer and immediately check the CPU fan spins and any other fans. If not spinning, then switch off.
If all is correct, the machine may boot into the BIOS. Simply use 'optimum' or 'safe settings'. Do not use password.
The machine should boot to screen saying 'cannot find operating system'. This is correct.
Allow to warm through. Use bios to check temperature if it has temperature sensor.
Well done. - The machine is ready for installing your operating system software.

LINUX. If you don't want to pay money, then stroll down to your newsagent for a Linux magazine with free Suse or Mandrake or Fedora or others for the vast and free selection of top class software. This will have all you may ever need. Linux on a CD from a magazine or a Linux book from a discount book shop should cost less than five pounds for all the software you can eat. Linux is a truly professional operating system as used by governments and the very top computer businesses. Yes, the best is free ! Nice people do exist.

Set the bios to look for the hard drive first, then the CD.

Whether windows or Linux, put the CD in the drive and reboot, then follow the simple instructions.
If you want windows AND Linux, simply add Linux after windows, as Linux also sets up a dual boot screen. (Windows thinks it's the only operating system on the planet.)

If buying from a large computer shop, you may wish to ask if the sales staff are on commission. Then see if they know what they are doing, by asking what make and model of the motherboard, chipset, memory and graphics card of the choices of computer. 'Is this an Nvidia, VIA or other chipset?' Then ask what the fastest processor upgrade is possible on the motherboard. You may not understand it all fully, but at least you can gauge by their response whether they are genuine or bullshitting you.

When buying, INSIST on a copy of the windows operating system on CD, not just a 'mirror' on the hard drive. If the hard drive fails, then you have lost the lot. You may be fobbed off with a 'restore CD'.
Open that big box and check ! - It's not a game.
No windows CD - no sale.

If a budget printer is bundled with the machine, beware of expensive ink cartridges and blag or demand a free printer cable and ALWAYS buy spare cartridges to see if they are a rip-off. If the replacement inks are expensive, then time to re- negotiate the printer options.
If a digital camera is included, check the picture resolution and require a removable memory card. Most printers and cameras are given away free simply because they cannot shift this stock, or it's just a truly awful product. A friend bought such a high street machine and the printer was not worth getting out of the packaging, but was used until the expensive ink cartridge ran dry, then the printer was dumped in the trash, even I could do nothing useful with it.

Insist on having 'on-site' warranty and free or low cost troubleshooting phone calls. Far too many 'return to base' machines remain on shelves for months or even get lost for ever due to lack of trained staff and rip-off premium rate phone calls.
Such high street shop machines are not all doom and gloom, as some computers can be diagnosed remotely via modem by the supplier, but of course, this does mean the machine should be working well and connected and working on the internet for this to be used. (Ah hm, can you spot the problem?)

If buying a laptop, INSIST on a spare battery pack, especially if working away from a power source. If they cannot supply a spare battery pack, then how on earth are they going to be able to supply a replacement CD drive, damaged screen, inverter or keyboard? It happens all too often. Always make sure it has a graphics chip equal or better than a mobile ATI 9600. Only the rich or stupid should consider a laptop a disposable item.

At a recent job interview for one of Britain's largest computer shops/warehouses, the repair workshop was carefully examined. The staff were not taking advantage of even the basic diagnostics equipment, merely replacing components, hoping to see if they were faulty. The work in this well-known shop could have been done far more efficiently with half the staff and someone who knew what he was doing. I know three unemployed science graduates who can do the job ten times better than the monkeys they employ. One friend applied for the job, but did not get as far as the interview, yet is probably one of the best diagnostics experts in the country, having not only the brains and knowledge, but a large armoury of highly sophisticated diagnostics equipment, some only recently available in the USA. British, he still remains looking for a job.
Despite training, skill and general standards being very poor indeed, this massive shop was awarded 'Britain's best computer store'. This massive shop often has to wait for 'the man who does computer repairs' to arrive once a week, before they are allowed to open the computer, because the in-house computer repair staff (monkeys) were not allowed to open the computers ! (Just how daft has Britain become under Blairs paperwork.) The author has repaired many of this well known firms computers after owners got fed up waiting for silly things like the operating system to be reinstalled three times, when the memory needed pushing back into the slot. Since then, I have helped such computers to be maintained and upgraded by the owners who learn that doing it themselves is far easier and faster.
Be warned: British personnel recruitment and GNVQ qualifications are terrible and getting worse; Even a hairdressers pet rabbit and cat were awarded GNVQ's in hairdressing. Hence the need for this and many other monographs on the web.

Increasing numbers of people know that a far better machine is possible for much less money.
Yes, - an equal specification machine is often possible for much less, but requires some time and effort. This time and effort is well repaid when the machine needs repair, more speed, upgrading or simply to increase reliability. When things go wrong, the builder is always at hand and already knows the machine, it's components, software and history, and is ready for instant repair or upgrading.
Even when things go 'totally belly-up', the home builder is far better than the repair monkey and far faster and very cost effective.

High Street Hassles.
There is a common problem with versions of windows as supplied with high street machines.
To save a few corporate pennies, the copy of windows supplied with high street machines may be 'mirrored' onto the hard drive, so you may have no genuine copy on CD should the machine go belly up. If you bought your machine on the high street and it only has one of the awful 'restore disks' then you may want to retain your copy of XP.
It is vitally important to find your product identification key code using such programmes as the free Belarc Advisor. I simply run the 'Registry Editor' as soon as I get a machine, then search (F3) to find 'productkey'. This will give you the ID code for that particular copy of windows. You cannot 'copy and paste' this, so I simply use a pencil and paper, or press the 'print screen' key, which copies a picture of the screen, then paste the image into a paint package such as 'Paint', which comes with windows.
Once you have the code number for your particular copy, then borrow or copy a friends full, proper copy of 98, ME or XP and simply use your own code number for a legitimate re-install.

The last tool needed, is a start up floppy disk. Go to Start Settings - Control Pannel - Add/Remove Programmes, then choose the Make Start-up Disk.
You now have all you need to reinstall windows in the same way that anyone who buys a machine with a proper copy of windows on a CD. Naturally, you will prefer to use the high Street CD, or whatever copy of windows was supplied, but if you have replaced your hard drive, or even the motherboard, at least you will be in control of the situation and not reliant upon some overpriced telephone support service.

Example: A friend had a large manufacturers 'home computer' and had the motherboard replaced under warranty, but then could not install windows because the codes were then wrong. The support service could not help. He ended up using his own code number, and a friends CD copy.
Another friend crashed his XP system, but did not want to register it, so it would deliberately stop working after two weeks. Therefore he used a corporate copy of windows and used his own legitimate code number for running a product he had paid for.

So be safe: Always have a proper, full copy of your software should all else go belly up. More later.

At the top of the heap is the full blown games machine. This is capable of everything, including blindingly fast system and graphics, linked for gaming with the rest of the world and often tweaked until it can go no faster. Prices from around a thousand if built oneself, to thousands if built to this weeks latest specs by enthusiasts who are constantly keeping up to date with the latest hardware and software. (Few, if any corporate engineers are found working at this level unless it's as a hobby.) Such machines rarely last more than six months without being upgraded.

Do not get too worried about understanding it all, just get a general idea of your options.
Before you start, decide whether you actually need to build your own machine.
Here are various options to building your own computer:

Choosing a machine:

Some systems are very old, yet perfectly good for word-processing, databases, spreadsheets, plus moderate gaming and graphics. These can be found for free, so ask around first: This website was originally written and uploaded to the internet using a six year old P75 computer, 32 megs of memory, a discarded monitor and updated with windows 98. It was upgraded to a pitiful 133 mhz processor for free, some extra memory and a free old 4 speed CDRW. It may be the poor relation to it's stablemates, but it still does excellent work, maintains a website and still remains truly bomb proof.

Fifty to a hundred quid.
Not quite free, but for around fifty pounds or even less, buy a three to five year old 500 to 1200 Mhz ex business computer. There are many shops with such machines stacked in large piles, begging to be given a good home. Such machines are replaced en masse, even though they can still do a perfectly good job. This phenomenon is still queried by sane people, but is surprisingly common. Ask around for free items. Add fifteen quid or less for a monitor (screen) and add a 10 quid CDRW.
Use Windows 98SE which may already be installed on the machine and/or Linux. Most programmes will run, including internet service provider software. Consider free copies of Lotus Office suite which is as good as any others for most purposes and once available free off magazines, so a copy is out there somewhere. If the machine has USB ports, use windows 98SE with USB support. If no USB, then simply add a PCI card for a few quid to connect later printers and scanners etc via USB.

(In some decadent countries, such prices will probably be laughable, with anything over three years old probably considered scrap. Whole container loads of decent computers are shipped to poorer countries, where they are more appreciated and put to a life of doing sterling work, probably reaching their full potential for the first time. These machines may be writing the next generation of software, so are not so useless as the high street may want you to think.)

Mid range. A hundred quid or two.
For 200 quid, it is often better to build a new machine. The middle range is the standard specification, aimed as a general purpose machine for home use plus some gaming at reasonable speeds. The new ATI integrated grphics are rather good for most games.
Prices from one hundred pounds if bought carefully, to two hundred pounds. Anything over 200 pounds is wasted money, as you should build your own modern machine or buy a new 'base unit'. Look around market shops and small computer shops selling second hand stock. Always see it working first. Also look out for a two year old or less, unwanted or similar machine going cheap as richer people and businesses upgrade to this weeks toy. Cost effective, with minimal loss in speed for most uses including everything but the latest games. Specs around 200 to 1200 mhz processors. A simple upgrade with a sensible choice of higher specification graphics card and some more memory can be worthwhile to get a few more years of very good use from it.

NOTE: For 100 pounds, you can buy a NEW, damn good processor, fan, motherboard and memory, ready to shove into a new, 20 quid ATX case.

Note: You can usualy buy a NEW 'base unit' for 200 pounds with good processor, 256megs and CDRW. But will need the operating system (windows for 60 quid, or Linux for free).
Then add a second hand keyboard, mouse, speakers and monitor. This is probably the most cost effective route and is recommended unless you build your own base unit. A 'base unit' is just the computer case, complete with all the bits inside. If intending to use windows, then get the operating system at half price at the same time as the motherboard or base unit, to save seventy quid!

Second hand mice and keyboards are often available for a pound each, monitors from 15 pounds. A base unit will give you the speed and power you need, but without the costs of a new monitor or software.

Warning: Do not try too many short cuts and other methods to building your own machine from an old machine to save money, as it is often money wasted.
Just the monitor and a USB card are resonable upgrades. The cheapest route would seem to be to upgrade or modify an older ATX machine. This may reduce the cost of the case, hard drive, floppy and CD, but only the floppy and hard drive will be worth keeping and the hard drive will be too small, and probably needs replacing anyway.
A new case with PSU can be 15 quid, and a floppy drive 4 quid. It is therefore far preferable to buy a new, cheap case with power supply for your new internals.
If you go this route, probably because you have been using an older machine for a while to get to know computing, then simply keep the old machine as a back up and as a donor for your hard drive, floppy and CDRW, but noting else. Then build a new budget machine with a NEW motherboard, graphics, processor and memory, depending upon what you require. Swapping bits can be problematic, as standards change. Luckily standards change slowly, so parts from a four year old machine can often be used.- Just add new processor, motherboard and memory for 100 pounds for a perfectly good machine.
A three year old ATX case will need a newer power supply, so simply buy a new case with a 400 watt PSU in it, for about 20 quid. If you like the looks of the old case then you can still use it, because it's just a tin box.

Warning: An ATX computer is the ONLY format you should consider for budget upgrading. ATX is the most common and will remain available for many years yet, and the later BTX case has failed to become popular.
Older AT cases are extinct, and will NOT do, and the old power supply will not fit modern motherboards. Look at the rear for a single, large round keyboard socket about the diameter of your thumb - if so, don't buy.
ATX machines have a pair of small round keyboard and mouse connectors, a little smaller than your little finger, often pink and green.
Warning: There were 'processor upgrades' for around 80 quid. It is far better to simply buy a far faster, new budget processor, motherboard and memory for a few quid more. Then keep your hard drive, CD and floppy drive.
Patching up a four year old machine with a processor and memory upgrade is not worth the effort and just money down the drain. On a three year old machine, never bother to upgrade with a faster processor or memory unless these components are available for a few quid and you have the motherboard manual. Even a NEW case with 400 watt power supply can be under twenty quid. Check the budget computer magazine adverts.

TIP: If intending to upgrade an old machine, it is nearly always better to simply keep the old machine intact and buy or build a new one. This way, you always have a reliable back up machine, which is priceless should anything go drastically wrong, such as a fire or theft and you must access your emails today, even if only to order some new computer parts :)

Keep a weather eye on bottom of the range NEW machines which can start at about 200 pounds, so the wasted cost of a second hand machine is part way to a fairly reasonable new specification computer. You get what you pay for, so if a 200 quid, ready built machine is bought, expect to reserve fifty quid as the components will be budget, and may fail in the next five years, possibly the power supply or memory, but they are usually far more reliable than many expensive high street machines. Many magazines offer a wide range of such machines. Usually the smaller magazines offer great choices. I prefer to pay a tenner more and build it all myself.

You can always buld a cost effective machine at any time.
Example: In late 2004 I built a typical budget machine, an all-new midi tower case with 350 watt power, a 2300 Sempron processor, cooler with variable fan speed, motherboard with integrated graphics and sound, 256 megs of memory and a 40 gig hard drive, and the latest optical eye mouse and CDRW for under 208 pounds. This is with a decent chipset although with integrated graphics and sound. It took an hour to build. Old floppy and CD drives were used. With this basic machine you can enjoy chasing the baddies in Call of Duty and such like. A decent graphics card can be fitted for 30 to 70 quid when needed, along with more memory.
In 2006, the specs will have risen by 50 percent, but the costs will remain almost unchanged. In 2006, the specs are Sempron64, 2800, 512 memory, an 80 gig drive and DVD re-writer.

Add a second hand 17 inch monitor for about 20 pounds, a one pound keyboard and mouse and 70 for an OEM copy of Windows XP and a reasonable printer, then there is still change from 300 quid.

TIP: Last weeks specs: Check out the slightly slower DVD drives as they still write at about the same speed, but for half the price.
Add 30 to 120 pounds for a graphics card if playing the latest games at high resolutions such as Need for Speed, Unreal Tournament 04, Free Cell etc. See graphics cards, later.

New from the ground up.
The first point to note is that computer component pricing is fairly stable in price, - you will probably get all the computer bits for about 200 to 300 pounds, at whatever time in the next few years. 500 to 700 pounds for a really top specification machine.
The best time for buying computer parts is allegedly to be around march, after the Christmas spree has finished and money is thin on the ground, when stocks are building up again, but no one is buying, as people are saving up for holidays. To this must be added technological trends as new items are released onto the market, making the older versions even cheaper.

Once upon a time, memory was very expensive and the price fluctuated alarmingly, but this has also stabilised. In essence, computer components are now a very 'mature' technology and product line, so unlikely to fluctuate much in the near future.

The computer market is completely flooded, as evidenced by the proliferation of bells and whistles being sold with computers, plus a trend towards complete replacement machines. So sales staff nor the prices are not likely to be able to push their luck, unless you get a slimy, slick high street salesperson. The speeds and power may increase but this matches similar advances in games and other software, but the basic costs will remain stable unless a giant technological leap forward should happen. This also causes many older, yet eminently sensible computers to become available for free or for pennies.

Software:

Warning: The hardest part of running an OLD machine (5 years or older) for free is finding suitable software ! So always ask around to find the programmes first. There is no point buying a very old machine if the older programmes cannot be found to run on it. There are copies of just about everything out there, you just have to hunt them down.

The best way to get software is to use free copies of last years version, usually free off computer magazines, or to use Open Office and also the vast Linux library.

The operating system such as windows or Linux, is the core software, which controls the computer bits inside. 'On top' of the operating system runs the users programmes, such as your choice of word processors and games.

When looking for a budget system, preferably use Windows 98. This takes up less room and needs less memory than XP leaving plenty of room for Corel 3 (free off a magazine cover) for picture manipulation. For a good honest word processor use a free 'works suite' programme from a magazine cover disc, such as Lotus Smart Suite 98, which contains a wordprocessor, spreadsheet and database.
Businesses were run on this software just a few years ago, so what has really changed other than the cost? The only real change is the increase in complexity of the programmes. Most modern office programmes are slower and using 20 percent of their capabilities. The more modern software additions are often more annoying than useful.

This website is written using AmiPro 3, a word processor on 5 floppies which is fifteen? years old and still my favourite, only the spelling and thesaurus tools are used fully.
Ami Pro 3.0 wordprocessor works under 98se and XP, as well and the ancient windows 3.0 that it was originally written for, very, very nice one Lotus !
It is a real pity that properly written software no longer exits.

Another distinct advantage of older software is that you get all you actually need, plus the bonus that the programmes start and run so much quicker than the latest overbloated versions.
Ami Pro 3 is about twenty times faster than any modern word processor and has all I need, but without the attendant crap cluttering up the use of the programme. I don't want a jumbo jet when I prefer a Cessna.

TIP: Look out for a computer with the official windows hologram on the side, which also contains the authorisation code number.
I picked up a few mangled cases with this hologram for nowt and so became the owner of the right to use this numbered copy of windows. I did not have a copy of the actual CD, but do I own the authorisation code. I then simply borrowed a genuine windows CD and recycled this copy of windows.
I now have five holograms, - as I keep my eyes open and 'collect' the right to use each operating system, before the cases are dumped in the recycling centres. This allows me to build machines for friends and remain totally legal.
I recently found an unwanted, sealed copy of windows 95, with manual and licence for a couple of quid. This will work on most machines from faster 486's upwards and will do for most people until they can afford a better machine. (Should a better machine ever be needed).
XP is more difficult to acquire legally for free, being 'lawyered up'. See later.

Ancient History: Ancient machines used Windows 3.1(on 7 floppies) which is effectively dead. It needs a copy of DOS 5 or 6 to run. (on 3 floppies. DOS = disk operating system). This would be preferred if using a really old 486 computer for basic uses such as word-processing, and basic internet and email access.
Warning: A major booby trap with using older operating systems such as DOS (disc operating system) and windows 3.1 is lack of drivers. Drivers to run the printers ands scanners under windows 3.1 will be on a floppy disc or CD with the printer. If an old printer, then a selection of drivers is on the version of windows for most of the older makes of printers and scanners.
A modern item such as a digital camera or new printer will NOT have drivers for win 3.1, so don't expect too much of an old machine. (My Cannon BJ200 printer is eight years old yet works happily on win 3.1, Win 98, AND XP but always check first.)
If you have an old machine with PCI slots, and use a digital camera, then you can easily install 98SE and a five quid PCI USB interface card to access your camera and modern printer and scanner.
If using such a steam powered computer, you can always have your digital pictures simply put onto a CD and then access this through the CD drive on an old computer, or simply use an old CDRW or a new DVD writer, but run it very slowly while burning.

The point to note is that computers have been around awhile, so most aspects have been covered and most operating systems can be used in most machines.
It is the inability to find suitable, older software that will cause an old or ancient machine to be scrapped. - A 386 or 486, or anything with 32 megs of memory is ancient. Just don't bother unless it's free and you have spare time. So ask around for the options when buying and old machine.
Even if it is free but a duffer, you will have learnt something and will probably learn how to strip and repair it, and just keep the monitor. The monitor from my old 386 still works happily on an Athlon 939 with XP.

Windows 98 SE vs XP.
This section will soon be out of date, defunct due to the falling cost of suitable machines to run XP.
As of writing, most new machines come with windows XP, so you may well be wondering why some shops still sell new copies windows 98SE second edition.
There are many reasons, perhaps you do not want to register your machine and your details with the corporate 'suits' in America. Perhaps you do not have 256 megs of memory, or you do not want 600 megs of hard drive space just for an XP operating system.
With 98SE, you do not have to email or phone the corporation to get an activation code. Neither are there hassles of only having four upgrades your computer before the XP operating system stops and you must haggle with the vendor to get an activation code.
Perhaps you simply want an easy to use operating system which can still run most of the latest software but without the requirements of modern operating systems.
Perhaps you want to use your old hardware which was made well before XP and does not have XP support. (Don't worry, as most software which runs on windows 98 will run on XP and updates are commonly available on the web.)

I use 98SE for all the above reasons, plus it always starts en shuts doen fast. I can also press the power button, when 98SE will happily shut down safely in two seconds, allowing me to walk away instantly. XP takes about a million years to shut down, which really bugs me.
Unless you need XP, the 98SE still has many excellent attributes. To be quite frank, I have XP but rarely use it, so don't be frightened into needing all the latest stuff.
You will need XP for games such as Call of Duty 2, and the modern stuff now coming along, so if building a new computer, then XP is of course a very good idea.

The older hardware may not always have drivers, so old printers do not always work on modern machines. But to prove the point of using old software: - many really old programmes such as Ami Pro 3 run happily on XP. - I know this because I first used Ami Pro 3 on my 386 SX25Mhz with just 2 megs, back in 1987 and I still use the very same programme today to write this website and many books ! Ami Pro 3 now runs incredibly fast since I first used it.
See - I told you that lots of old stuff will do the job well. So don't throw your favourite software or hardware away just yet. You do not need the latest software. You will be surprised what is possible to work with almost any machine.

If needed, it is possible to run windows 3.1 and 98 together on one machine, either as dual boot, or if really desperate, simply by running win98 on a 16 bit fat, and then running DOS from a floppy which can boot into the windows 3.1 directory, allowing you to use an ancient printer or other stuff. Simply booting with the floppy in for 3.1, or out to boot into 98 will allow you to use your ancient old scanner, printer and such like, yet still save all your work on the hard drive.
There are many reasons not to use XP, as not everyone likes it, even though it is believed to be more stable, but somewhat hogs resources and takes longer to start and to shut down.
And while we are on the subject, if you wish, you can also run Knoppix Linux direct from the CD drive, including the superb 'Open office' software suite.

There are other versions of windows, apart from 98Se and XP, in between these came windows 2000 and ME, millennium edition, but they are basically upgrades along the way. NT also came out, but is mainly for corporate users, as the overly secure filing system is a pain.
98SE and XP remain the main work horses.

Vista. :(
Vista is the latest version of windows from mistobloat and nobody likes it. Even Dell will continue to offer XP to maintain customers, as Vista is simply appalling. Vista is slow, needs massive memory and computer power and wastes a lot of the computers ability with fancy screens. If anyone who is lumbered with vista, then they should immediately switch off all the 'eye candy'.
It wil be at least until mid 2008, possibly 2009 before Vista is usable, and only because computers have the power to run it properly. Until then, it wil be full of bugs, safety holes and there are stll far too few drivers for printers, scanners, screens and just about everything else.
Vista - simply stay clear and use XP until you are forced to use vista, then consider all the other options.

For most people, either 98SE or XP home works just fine, but then, so did 3.1 back in the stone age.
Machines over ten years old choose DOS 5 (on 3 floppies), and win 3.1 (on 7 floppies).
Machines over three years old, choose 98SE.
Newer machines, choose XP.
For free, choose Linux.

Admittedly even a 486 bought in 1985 will still handle the information throughput of a 56k modem dial-up connection to the internet and for your emails. So a free computer, second hand modem and a 'pay-as-you go' at a penny a minute for web access with email, is truly just a few pennies indeed.

I access my emails and surf the web for half an hour a week using a 56k modem and basic phone line: It only costs five pounds every three months on the phone bill.
So don't be put off, the internet and e-mails can be almost free and that includes an old free computer with a 56k modem.

Computers are not quite like this, but they do get upgraded with time, then a new machine built as the cost of more upgrades is better spent making a new computer, and placing the old one in a secondary or backup position.

If interested in computing as a hobby, or for fun, or simply to be able to survive a modern lifestyle, then a standard machine may naturally go through many upgrades to gradually keep up with the technology or may even evolve into a really fast games machine.
For general use, it is better to build a new computer every two or three years, simply because computing components are constantly advancing. The old one then becomes a kiddies machine, granny's internet machine or as the emergency standby.
In reality, your present hack machine may well have a good graphics card and DVD burner, which is put into the new machine, then the original graphics card and CD writer re installed in the old machine so the computers are constantly evolving and reproducing, as the attic gradually fills with a reasonable backup internet machine and the unwanted one sent to a charity in Africa or get passed on to those who are new to computing.

TIP: If I had just 200 pounds, I would build my own computer using new parts other than a second hand monitor and keyboard.
I would choose slightly older stock for DVD rewriter and motherboard to save many pennies and to keep under the 200 quid limit. The only budget hurdle is a new copy of windows XP for 70 quid which would push the budget higher. Unless vitally important, I would therefore simply use my older copy of windows 98SE which does not need registering to work, or use Linux.

It is not difficult to build your own.
It's more akin to a kiddies building block system, just a little more complex. A six year old could do it with a little tuition.

The advantage of building your own is that YOU choose the bits you want.
You get to choose the case you like the look of. Perhaps you would like to save a fiver on a motherboard and put it towards a better graphics card for playing games, or perhaps a larger hard drive and decent printer and DVD writer for your photo collection. Perhaps a scanner for your newspaper or ancient tomes collection.

So sit down and write the top five uses for your computer.
Popular uses are emails, internet access, storing or printing photos, writing documents and letters, building your own CD music or video collections and of course games. -
If just an office and internet and email machine, then a basic specification will do.
If storing lots of photos, then a CDRW or DVD writer is needed.
If games, a good graphics card and DVD reader. For printing photos, then add a resonable Epson or HP printer.
If converting print and old photos, then a scanner, perhaps with an optional film slide adapter.
If a massive music collections, then preferably route through your hi-fi, as you will be surprised what even a very basic modern computer can do.
If into creating music, remember that Kraftwerke built their own early drum machines.
For video collections, then spend some more money for a fast processor, 1 gig of memory, a DVD burner and a TV tuner card to transfer video to hard drive for editing and burning onto a CD or DVD.

No high street budget system can offer all this in one package to a decent standard.
So always build your own machine for YOUR needs, without a load of high street tat you do not need. When you get keen on computing, then you can simply 'upgrade' the computer by adding the parts as and when you need them.
It takes less than five minutes to add a DVD drive, or a graphics card. Scanners and printers take even less time.

TIP: In reality, you probably want it all, but don't have the money. So just build what you need, then add bits later as and when needed or affordable. You will then end up with a decent printer or graphics card, rather than the tat the high street shops dish out. And you will have saved yourself both time and money in the long run.

The following are very basic starting prices in pounds from reputable magazine adverts during 2005. The prices of each component are fairly stable or falling, with just the specification of the items increasing year by year.
Case 20 pounds. Motherboard with sound and graphics 35. OEM Windows XP 70. CPU processor 35. Cooler 5. Memory 30. Hard drive 40. Floppy drive 4. DVD writer 40. Second hand keyboard and mouse, one pound each. Second hand monitor, 15 pounds, or a new 17 inch monitor for 60. - That's about 250 to 300 quid to you guv'nor, for the equivalent of a 500 pound high street machine.

Now there's a funny thing - I've been building computers for over ten years and these prices remain phenomenally stable with just the memory vastly dropping in price, and the rest gradually dropping in price across the years. I remember paying 70 quid for my 386 co- processor chip.
I truly believe that these prices will remain fairly constant for the next ten years, except of course that for the same money, the power and speeds will double every three to five years. -
Its not quite pocket money, but its certainly no rip-off.

If you want to go mad and get the best, double the prices of everything for a top spec machine, then add a few hundred pounds for a top graphics card.

The choice to build your own machine from scratch is for those who prefer to get exactly what they want without compromising unduly. This leads to a far better machine and one built to YOUR requirements.

Start by buying a copy of various types of computer magazines, preferably a selection of magazines. Then get to know what it's all about, to eventually decide what you want. This may take a while, so this monograph should help you understand what is involved. If you have access to the internet, then go surf shopping to check prices of all the bits needed.

What is chosen is totally personal, based upon what you think you need vs what you want. Quality vs value for money. Or simply what you feel happiest with at this stage. The choices of many components are also biased by advertising hype and a varying degree of subjective assessment.
If you decide to change anything later, it is not difficult.
Most home built computer systems will work well enough, but knowing the bits and pieces will help refine the choices.

You could almost make a working computer by choosing parts at random, using only cost as a guide plus a few basic rules, but we can all do a lot better than this ! So do not expect to understand, or remember it all, - just skim through, to get a general appreciation of what computers are about.

NOTE: I have built computers from parts found in skips (dumpsters) but I am quite sure you can do a lot better.

1. A general description of the parts, what they are and why.
2. What to look for when buying your parts and where and how to buy them.
3. How the bits go together. Stick part A into part B.

After this guide to the bits, is a guide to software. This will help you to make a system better and more reliable than that supplied from the big dealers or the high street. Unlike those buying in high street shops, your machine will be a tough software survivor.

Processors. CPU. (Central Processing Unit.)

HINT: Intel have rumours about secret coding in the chip to spy upon the user. Evidently it is switched off and must be enabled by the user. (or virus or trojan, or police.) As of the Intel 820/830/840/945 series, Digital Rights 'Management' is also encoded onto these chips. DRM is a means to prevent people from using code without permission. For many, it is stealing music downloads, but for others it is a fundamental intrusion to having a happily working computer. If you have to get permission every time you need to use a piece of software, then you may not want DRM.
Between the two manufacturers choices, either will do the job well.

TIP: The pricing of processors is geometric, so the modern budget processor is truly excellent value. But the fastest processors are a truly terrible waste of money. Only fools spend double the money for a ten percent increase, when the money can make the computer much faster in other ways.
Choose sensibly, as you are unlikely to be able to tell the difference between a 2.8 gig and a 3.2 gig processor, even though the faster is twice the price. The difference in cost can be put towards a decent graphics card, which will make the computer fly in games, or towards more memory which will make office work faster and video work smoother.

In mid 2007, we are awiating AMD's quad core processors, so Intel rule the roost for a while.

Dual Cores, Quad cores.
Two processors do not run twice as fast, neither do quad cores run four times as fast.
In most computers, multiple cores just add about 30 percent extra speed, although some programmes are now being writen for multiple processing, but the software is not always capable of using multiple cores. Most domestic uses are using just one core, with minor background stuff using the other cores. Many laptops shut down all but one core, or use two cores in slow mode when it gets too hot.
Unless usng video editing or other high intensive work then multiple cores are mainly a giant step sideways in technolgy. Even gaming does not make much use of multiple cores, as it's the GPU graphics pocessor which does the real work. Admittedly some top graphics cards now use two or more GPUs but these have dedicated software to get the most from them and this is the only place where I consider multiple procesotrs to be of real use.

Intel and AMD supply standard and budget processors.
Intel's standard is the Pentium, and the budget is called the Celeron.
AMD's standard is the Athlon, and the budget is the Sempron.

This monograph is about building your own, so for bang per buck, I prefer AMD every time. The very Sempron in the piccie is the CPU this web page is now updated with. The AMD Sempron is the superb successor to the most excellent Duron.
Shire horses vs ponies. Even the old AMD Duron 1.6mhz can beat a 2.8 mhz intel Celeron in the 3Dmark2001 game simulation test. 'Nuff said.

Once a preferred manufacturer is chosen, decide if you want the basic processor or the latest faster type.

TIP: Manufacturers obviously don't set out to make budget processors, it is just that less than perfect batches occur. Intel and AMD offer cheaper budget processors which are made on the same silicon as the top processors, but which either failed to make the grade for higher specification chips, or made using the earlier processor manufacturing equipment. Sometimes the cheaper processors are just as good as the top models, as the manufacturing often has high yields, so the manufacturer simply classes them at slower speeds to fill the market gap !
This is why so many processors can be run to almost the same speeds as the top models. AMD's Semprons and 939 Athlons overclock particularly well indeed.
TIP: The best chips are used in laptops, being very high grade items which can run perfectly well even when their voltages are dropped, so they will run much cooler in the confines of a laptop. These mobile chips also overclock the best in a well cooled standard computer.

For most people, the higher specification processors may cost a lot more, but the actual recognisable speed improvement is negligible in normal use. So always choose according to sensible pricing because the difference between the fastest in the range which is thirty percent faster than the affordable device will produce little recognisable difference to the average user. I only see appreciable advantages in upgrading if the processor is at least twice as fast, and then it's not great.
The real speed increases come from elsewhere, such as more memory, faster graphics and optimised software.

When I and a friend applied for a B.Sc. in multimedia, my local 'university' (Plymouth) proudly boasted their latest, expensive machines. They looked nice, but were so badly configured that we could do better work using far older machines. I was offered a place, but decided not to take up the offer, as like many modern British 'universities', they simply are not good enough for a real degree course. Like their machines, I could do much better.
My friend did this B.Sc course, and using an old Amiga 4000, produced far better work than the lecturers, to the point where they did not believe it could be done, and asked for all the source code. He showed these lecturer 'experts' up for what they were - no better than high street sales staff and their cheesy products. The rest of the staff and fellow students gave him high praise for his work. He is now a taxi driver.

Technology is improving all the time, but I prefer to wait until I can afford a large increase in power to appreciate the costs involved for any processor speed advantage. This means an upgrade every two or three years to have any appreciable or worthwhile increase in speed. Even the slower processors are more than suitable for everything but the latest graphic intensive games or video editing. For example, the old Duron with its 25 million transistors and approx half the internal cache memory is about ten percent slower in a system than an equivalent Athlon with it's 37 million transistors and more cache memory. This is only approximate. So read the prices and choose the most sensible processor for you.

Look at the prices and speed ratings, then choose according to your price range and you are unlikely to go wrong.
You only need a super fast processor for professional video editing or movie making.

The processor socket.
The processor socket on the motherboard is different between various types of AMD and Intel processors, so processor choice will halve your choice of motherboards from the outset. From this, a parallel design of motherboard designs can be seen, with manufacturers offering very similar systems for both manufacturers of processors.
You simply choose the type of motherboard according to the processor it will take.
AMD Athlon 64 sit in 939 pin sockets. Semprons sit in 745 pin sockets. Intel's sit in their 775 variations. Always check that motherboard will accept your processor.
On some older machines, there may be a slot for the processor, but it was merely a fad for a few years.
Presently the processor sits in a zero insertion force socket. A temperature sensor is often positioned in the central well to keep an eye on the temperature of the processor. Fitting it is really simple, although the standard heatsink clamps are best done with the motherboard on a table before fitting into the case.

64 bit processors are about to take over from 32 bit.
Intel are in a bit of a tizzy, and AMD is making excellent inroads to offer the customer a great selection of sensible CPU designs. It's got so bad that rumours abound about Intel's MD writing to his employees to get their fingers out. Intel processors seem to be too hot and too slow. So bad, that they have dropped the speed ratings and hidden the problems under a vague number coding system - be wary.
AMD seems to be the happy way to go, either the Athlon 64 or the 'budget' Sempron, which can give most Intel CPUs a run for half the cost, to offer excellent 64 bit processing for all. AMD also include core anti virus code in their processors, which is usable with Linux and XP SP2 onwards.

The numbers of CPU pins will vary. Intel presently with 478 and 775 pins. AMD with the present socket-A which is being phased out, but still offers some superb computing, or 754 which is for most of us in the near future, and the superb 939 for the ultimate speed freaks and gamers.
64 bit processing is not really of use until 64 bit operating systems can take advantage of the hardware. It seems as if the next product from Mictosoft will be later than usual, (yawn) and probably only when Intel get something to run this stuff on.
AMD 64 bit processors already run both 32 and 64 bit software quite happily.

In 2005, there is a move to include two processors on a single chip. But the advantages are not twice the speed, more likely 30 to 60 percent increase, if the software is appropriate. These chips evidently run very hot, and there are rumours of at least 600 watt power supplies needed for Intel versions. Stay well clear until the problems have been solved.

TIP: Personal recommendations: Choose Sempron for a budget system. Otherwise go for Athlon 64bit, preferably socket AM2, the processors of choice for top gamers.
For video editing, use Intel.

It is common for retail processors to be supplied with an approved cooling fan which ensures the guarantee remains valid.

Processor sockets change about every five years, with intels 775, and AMD's AM2 sockets being the only choices for a while. These permit contant upgrading, although you must make sure the motherbaord can support the choice of processor.

Processor cooler.

Processors can be overclocked, so will need extra cooling, with the highly respected Athlon 2500 Barton being particularly happy to fly beyond 30 percent faster than standard specs and the 939's also known for overclocking. For the beginner, overclocking is a dubious hobby, best left to experts.

All cases are designed to work with standard coolers and fans. Be careful, check that any fancy cooler is not too big in a compact case, as it may be obstructed by the power supply. If in doubt when buying a big cooler, use standard parts.

The processor will sit in it's socket and have a large aluminium heatsink and fan attached. Ensuring this airflow is clean and cool is important and on higher specification machines may require an extra fan to draw fresh air through the case, but don't worry at this stage, as most fans work perfectly well, and you will be able to check the running temperature once the machine is built.

Motherboards. (Main boards).

After 2005, the new BTX format is expected to become popular, but don't bet on it, as it is being decried even before it hits the streets. (It's now 2006, and no one is excited over BTX yawn.)

At any one time, there are over a hundred motherboards available, possibly two hundred or more.
This is because there are about six main motherboard makers, using five manufacturers of at least three types of chipsets, and for the two main processor players who have four or more lines of processors. The permutations can be even larger.
A recent popular magazine advert lists over eighty motherboards and another advert over fifty. The choices will be dependant upon the processor choice, the chipset and memory options.
To a lesser degree, any integrated sound and/or graphics and the connection ports such as USB and firewire will also refine the choices.
Motherboard prices range from under 20 pounds to over a hundred pounds.
The cheaper motherboards do not have the latest bells and whistles, nor the latest overclocking abilities. This does not matter to most people, as usually an older model will also have any bugs sorted out and thus be very stable and well behaved.
The nastier motherboards do not survive long in the commercial jungle, and only the solid performers go through many production runs.
Some motherboards from differing manufacturers will have the same specifications, but at different prices. Deciding which is best is a problem that needs talking to the experts, but usually you are paying for the name, or for minor differences that you will probably never notice. The same as buying a car, some have expensive badges, some do not, but both do the same job.
TIP: When it comes to motherboards, the same is why the Skoda is the worlds second most reliable car, second only to the Lexus, Japan's very expensive car.

In most cases, a moderate motherboard will suffice. Even the older, cheapest motherboards at about 20 pounds are perfectly good, they just don't have all the bells and whistles that most people never use.
Although new boards are omnipresent, some older 'budget' boards, perhaps a year old, manage to make a great reputation in their short lifetimes. By the time some become famous for reliability, they are also more cost effective, as newer boards upstage them, with the recommended processors and memory likewise no longer at the pinnacle of technical achievement. Two classic motherboards come to mind and both are very cheap.

If paying more than forty pounds, then overclocking firms usually test motherboards to the extreme. Go to their websites to see what they have chosen, and their comments on the latest boards. If possible, see which makes and models of motherboards are used by top computer builders of custom machines. (Not the high street shops, who use some awful components.) The clues are out there, take a little time and think it through.

The choice of memory is closely linked to the motherboard, as the motherboard will dictate what type of memory is used and this is mentioned in the basic motherboard specifications.

Some motherboards include the graphics and usually include the sound.
This can keep overall costs low. Many people prefer integrated sound, and occasionally integrated graphics too. If not, then these can be ignored and a separate sound or graphics card can be added to the motherboard.
Separate sound cards can be cheap or expensive as they fit into a PCI slot. Graphics cards can range from 25 to 400 pounds and fit in an AGP (accelerated graphics port) or the newer PCIe x16 slot.
Don't worry - if you later fit a graphics card into a motherboard with integrated graphics, (if you decide you discover you like fast games) then the motherboard BIOS chip will simply automatically ignore the onboard integrated graphics and all is well and run with the new graphics card.
You can later remove any racing graphics card for the newer machine, leaving the integrated graphics to keep the old machine working as back up machine or for granny's internet machine.

One ATX size fits all.
All standard motherboards will fit all standard cases.
The physical size and choice of motherboard rarely depends upon the case, unless fitting into a very small 'micro' case. The standard ATX and the 'micro ATX' format motherboards are very popular.
The only exception is by a couple of big corporate manufacturer (C, H and P) who make their own strange cases and internals.
But all commercially available ATX cases and all ATX motherboards are working to the same global ATX standard.

Motherboards are specified to work with certain processors and speeds and certain choices of memory, which are mostly common across much of the computer world. Just make sure your motherboard, processor and memory are compatible.

If using the latest SATA hard drives, simply make sure the motherboard has SATA connections.

An expensive graphics card will be either AGP or PCI express slot, so check the motherboard has the required slot.
If in doubt, always choose a new motherboard with a PCIe graphics slot.

Mismatching the speed of processor, memory, graphics card and motherboard can make a potentially fast system slower than it could be, but otherwise do no harm. Therefore decide exactly what you want the machine to do, then always try to balance the choices of processor, motherboard, memory and graphics card. A very expensive graphics card in a moderate system will run faster than a cheaper graphics card, but may be restrained from delivering it's full potential. The relative pricing of items is a good general guide for matching the components.

Things to check when choosing a motherboard: (Read the motherboard box or check the website data.)
** Type of processor socket for your chosen processor.
** Size. Any ATX format is common and will fit most cases.
** Optional integrated sound or graphics.
** Types of interfaces such as USB, firewire, IDE vs SATA hard drive interfaces.
** Slots: presently PCI, and AGP8x, but soon to be replaced with PCI express.
** A totally personal choice of chipset, VIA, SIS, Nvidia, intel, or ATI etc.

Don't worry, as most motherboards are designed for common use with common components. Simply choose the processor you like, then a motherboard to fit it. You will be spoilt for choice.

Motherboard Chipsets.
There are various support chipsets on the motherboards, (north bridge and south bridge and I/O chipsets) used by various manufacturers. These decide the speed of memory used and also the type of interfaces available such as USB2.0, Firewire etc. By looking at the lists of motherboards, the various chipsets can be seen, with both the cheaper version and the better renown manufacturers of chipsets.

A little background information.
The main difference between otherwise very similar motherboards will be the support chipsets. Most users don't know, nor care nor need bother. These are the large secondary chips on the motherboard. Motherboard manufacturers can select from various manufacturers of chipsets such as VIA, SIS, Nvidia, intel or ATI etc. which interface the processor to the PCI slots and keyboard, mouse and drives etc. These will offer various specifications, but all offer a sensible selection for most users. The differences are in the memory speed and any exotic hard drive interfaces and perhaps extra interfaces such as 'firewire' which are probably not needed.
TIP: An analogy is a car manufacturer choosing between makers of brakes and engine ignition systems and such like: They all do similar jobs, but some are faster or cheaper than others.
A high spec 'chipset' will give faster or more options to the motherboard. A budget chipset will work perfectly well, as they have been around for a year, with a well sorted Bios, but without the latest bells and whistles.

On the motherboard is a chip called the northbridge. The south bridge chip allows the processor to talk to the PCI slots and such like, but the northbridge does the hard and fast work between processor and memory. This gets so hot that some need cooling fins and others have a fan attached by the manufacturer. High specification motherboards will have fans on their northbridge chip. If in doubt about reliability of fans, or to reduce fan noise, then some of the cheaper northbridge fans can be replaced with large finned passive heat sinks which should be sensibly located in the case airflow.
If a beginner, you need not worry about this kind of stuff, but it helps get an idea of what higher spec motherboards are concerned about.

As of writing, SIS, VIA, ATI and nividia are the main chipset providers, although Intel also makes its own chipsets. They are not all similar in performance, but costs differ, as will be seen in the motherboard specs.
Some manufacturers allow overclocking. SIS chipsets usually use jumpers, while VIA and nvidia usually use soft bios settings which is much easier to use. If aiming for an easily overclocked system, then choose a suitable motherboard from the overclockers websites, which makes overclocking fairly easy, - but always check the motherboard specs first. There are even some motherboards which come supplied with automatic overclocking programmes to get the best out of your money.

TIP: Motherboard code numbers often tell the relevant information. For instance, suppose I'm buying a socket A for an Athlon or Sempron, then the motherboard will often be coded as K7V4 meaning it is a K7 =socket A, V = VIA chipset, with 400 memory speed. As you read through the various motherboards, you may be able to find your preferred choice more easily.

Choosing a motherboard is often thus:
Assuming a choice of 50 motherboards from a typical large computer shop; AMD or Intel, leaving 25 choices. Memory; standard or superfast and expensive, leaving ten. Integrated sound and / or graphics (preferably with PCIe graphics slot), and a few number of PCI or PCI express slots, leaving three or four. Manufacturer and chipset, leaving a personal choice or recommendation of probably just one motherboard.
Oh, for more choices !

Example: As a 2007 example of a good, budget system, I always choose a socket AM2 motherboard for the AMD Sempron processor, then reasonable memory speed for the money. I prefer ATI or Nvidia chipsets but this is personal as I have had very reliable computing using them. I always include integrated sound, as it is perfectly good for most purposes. Integrated graphics is common for all but the latest games, so I also demand a PCIe graphics slot, just in case I want to upgrade my graphics later.
The motherboards with ATI chipsets and their very good X300 integrated graphics and nvidia 6100 integrated graphics will play all but the most demanding games.

For those playing intensive games such as 'Free Cell' and Call of Duty, then do not use integrated graphics - buy a good graphics card. (70 to 200 quid. About 120 quid is a good choice for top games.)

If making your first computer and not overly worried about super fast graphics for fast games, then consider a motherboard with integrated sound and graphics. It's what many cheap (and not so cheap) high street computers use. Integrated sound chips are very good and highly compatible. But always look for that important graphics card slot, so that it can be upgraded later, as the evolution of computers and software never stands still.

For a higher specification machine, simply spend more money. Budget an extra 70 to 200 pounds for a good graphics card if playing fast games. But for a better machine, choose carefully.

It is impossible to recommend a motherboard manufacturer, but you often get what you pay for, although some cheap designs are superb. Be it safe to say that motherboards are well tested. A little reading will give the latest updates and allow a month or so to pursue the options and get a feel of the market. The author certainly recommends a certain magazine for down to earth, honest feedback for the home computer builder. Usually the smaller magazines offer the greater choices and far better advice. Also pop down to your local cyber cafe, surfing the net for reviews from the many specialist sites available. Some on-line shop websites have links to reviews of specific motherboards.

In mid 2007, with about 200 pounds to spend, I'd choose Sempron-64, AM2, with 1 gig of memory. DVD rewriter. 160 gig hard drive. An nvidia 6100 integrated grsphics chipset with onboard sound. Second hand 17inch monitor and keyboard.
Later additions would be an extra memory and a nice graphics card.

In mid 2007, with about 400 pounds to spend on a fast machine, I'd choose an AMD 64 Athlon dual core in an AM2 socket, with two matched pieces of memory to give 2 gig of high speed memory and nvidia 5X or 6X chipset with PCIe express graphics slot for a decent graphics card costing about 70 pounds. Modern onboard sound is perfectly acceptable. DVD rewriter. 250 gig hard drive. Second hand 17inch monitor and keyboard.
An Intel quad core is also an accptable alternative for the money.

No glue is needed:

The case is supplied with all the mounting screws.

Retail processors usually include the cooler and heat sink compound.

The processor cooler usually includes a heatsink pad or compound.

TIP: I would also add needle nose pliers, a small torch (flashlight), and a piece of blue office sticky putty to retrieve small screws, plus some masking tape or elastic bands to help tidy up the wiring.

The PCI slots.

If you waited for the latest specification, you will be waiting for ever: I would just buy what is available today, as the prices will start to drop and I would get even more bang per buck, while the rest of the world jumps for the latest bells and whistles. By the time it all settles down, I will be ready to build a new machine from scratch, free of all the changing standards and accompanying problems.
Personal Tip: At present, (2006) choose PCIe gaphics slots and SATA hard drives.

PCI slots commonly includes other stuff such as input / output cards for adding extra USB connectors, expensive sound cards, TV input cards or for controlling engineering devices and a host of other devices of various and numerous descriptions.
More and more peripherals are fitted with USB and firewire connectors, so the PCI slots are becoming less important. These slots are mainly retained for expensive sound cards, engineering controllers, network devices and extra hard drive controllers. I use PCI slots for a TV grabber card and robotic control interface.
You may never need to fit a card into a PCI slot. For many people, just one or two PCI slots will suffice. In the picture, there is also an ISA legacy slot for older cards, which are now essentially defunct.

TIP: If you have a really old machine without USB connectors, then a PCI card with USB ports for a fiver will simply fit into a PCI slot. Windows 95version2 can run USB, but preferably use windows 98SE, which works well with USB.
Even ye olde machine with a PCI card and windows 98SE, you can add a modern scanner, printer and digital camera.

AGP slots and PCIe slots. (Accelerated graphics port.)

If buying a very high specification graphics card, it may be large and often wide in the slot, due to its physically large cooling fan, so the nearest slot may be obscured, so ensure there are enough slots for your intended uses.

Latest: Many motherboards have the means to fit two identical, special graphics cards to double the speed.
But surely by the time you have saved up for the second, the latest will be running twice as fast, usually with half the hassle of fitting two graphics cards. Use your common sense, not money.
Modern graphics cards now use dual cores and premnably larger multi cores are on the way.

Memory slots.

It is important to match the memory to the system. Modern motherboards will probably accept any 266, 333 or 400 memory speeds, but getting the fastest it can handle is of course the best bet, especially as the prices are almost identical.
Your new motherboard 'chipset' will decide the speed, (usually 333 or 400) and your operating system will decide the size. For windows 98SE, you can survive with just 128 megs, for windows XP you need 256 megs or more.

The common memory in 2005 is a stick of 512 megabytes of memory running at 333 or 400 speed. (About 30 quid.) The common memory in 2007 is a stick of 1 gig megabytes of memory running at 400 to 700 speed. (About 30 quid.)

Adding your memory is easy - open the case and stick it in ! The computer will recognise the memory without further help. This is why many high street shops offer 'free memory upgrades' - they sell you memory at inflated prices and take just two minutes to fit it.

Note: If you have an older machine, you may want to upgrade to 256 megs, but check the speed first, as older machines may use earlier, expensive memory speeds of 66, 100 or 133 megahertz. So look around for second hand memory. Many second hand computer shops and stalls sell discarded memory for a quid a time, so ask first. I recently found a couple of 64 megs sticks of 133 memory for a friend for a fiver.
If you cannot find menory for pennies, then always fit a new motherbaord, memory and processor, as it cheaper and much faster in the long run.

TIP: In many cases, if expensive older memory is going to cost 50 quid, then it is better to replace the motherboard, processor and memory, all for just 100 quid.

A basic machine can get away with a comparatively small amount of memory, say 128 megs, whereas specialist machines may need four or eight times as much, such as 2 gigabytes of memory. Check how much memory is required by reading the side of the box for the operating system (software). Most Operating Systems run happily in 128 megs or so, but windows XP demands 512 to run reasonably well. If using lots of graphics such as fast games or video such as movie editing, then 1 gig of memory or more.
HINT: Most people will expect to add a second stick of memory in a year or so, as they demand more speed which more memory can give, and as prices fall.

There is an old computer phrase, 'You can never have enough memory'. If you don't think you need it now, you will later. But by then, you will probably soon be thinking of upgrading the machine or building another.
Therefore choose 128 megs for older operating systems or use 256 megs for XP. I have friends using computers bought from the high street two or three years ago and still happily using 64 megs of ram. I recently got him another couple of 64 meg sticks second hand for a fiver.

New memory can be cheap or expensive. Cheap may work well for ever, or may fail with time, but I have never had cheap memory failure. This also applies to higher quality memory, but the chances of failure are less and you can usually overclock expensive memory.

You may see 'major on third' which means major manufacturers memory chips, mounted on third party sticks. There are only a handful of memory chip makers who supply the worlds industry with standard formats and special memory for laptops and graphics cards etc. Once again, some of the cutting edge chip processes may be made in prefect batches and so become the fastest, while others may not be quite so good, so become cheaper, generic types.
As time goes on, and the manufacturing processes become ever refined, you will see memory, not only in the standard 333 and 400 speeds, but also increasingly faster speeds well beyond 500, and like their speeds, their prices will also fly higher for those who overclock their processors, memory and graphics cards.

Reading the memory specs from the motherboards website is recommended for a high specification machine, especially before buying expensive memory.

TIP: There are a few firms such as Crucial, offering high specification memory with lifetime guarantee, who supply optimum memory for the particular motherboard. Specialist firms who supply this important component are recommended for the higher specification systems. If you are building a high specification machine, then always give them a phone, tell them your motherboard and they will recommend the best options. When it's time to add more memory, they will have your details and be able to supply matching memory and their prices are surprisingly competitive.

TIP: If in doubt about which memory or chipset options, many motherboard manuals can be downloaded off the internet. This gives you a much better idea of what the options and specifications are. I always download the manual of an expensive motherboard before purchase, as they are easily available from the manufacturers websites. You may also wish to check for any bios update problems and such like, although this is not normally needed, as most new motherboards are more than three months old and will work fine. So if in doubt about the finer details of the motherboard, confirm that any expensive or fancy motherboard is exactly want you want.
If the latest motherboard, also check the bios updates to see what is happening before spending your cash.
Always check which processors are supported.

TIP: Personally, I prefer to use budget generic memory and use the money saved to buy twice the memory, e.g. 256 or 512, as this usually gives a far more appreciable increase in the overall system speed, simply because there is more memory space for the programmes to run in.

Not all machines need the latest specifications. This monograph was originally written on a old P75 machine with just an atrociously small 48 megs of memory, of which 4 megs were used by the ancient integrated graphics. It ran 98SE with only a few of the modern games, but works surprisingly well, all things considered, even with animations and 3D graphics.

Motherboard with Integrated Sound, Graphics and Networking.

Many integrated sound and graphics are of a reasonably good specification, but read the specifications first. Most high street machines up to 500 quid use integrated sound and graphics, whereas a home-built machine can have a much faster graphics card for this kind of money.

Nearly all integrated graphics steal some of the memory, so instead of having 256 megs, you may have 256 minus 32 or 64 megs used for the integrated graphics card, which will also have a slight speed loss. Separate graphics cards have their own faster, dedicated memory which does not slow down memory access times.

Integrated graphics are good, but not the best, usually about three years old graphics technology, as the makers of this and last years technology still holds a good price as separate graphics cards. So integrated graphics may not be suitable for certain specific uses, such as playing fast games or running a professional sound studio. So if in doubt, always check out the motherboard manual on the internet before buying.

Integrated sound is a safe and perfectly good choice for almost everyone, as many modern motherboards include six point speaker control for surround sound.
If not needing a specialist sound card, then always choose the integrated option. It can be disconnected should you wish to upgrade later with a specialist sound card which will fit in a PCI slot.

Integrated networking is also extremely common, as many people have more then one computer in the house and these can be networked, for single point internet access, or if wishing to connect your notebook from work to your home machine.

Many people knock integrated graphics and sound, but they are getting rather good, are extremely reliable and are very easy to set-up. For the beginner, choose the sound and graphics which are integrated as part of the motherboard, so there are rarely any set-up problems. They are all well checked by the designers of the motherboard, so the accompanying motherboard CD will usually install it all without the slightest hassle. A very good place to start if new to building a computer.

For an average home computer, without playing the fastest games, then use integrated sound and graphics.
If playing fast games, use integrated sound, but add a high specification graphics card from 30 to 120 quid. The cost of motherboard with integrated graphics is usually about a fiver more than one without.
If running a sound studio, use integrated sound and graphics, then insert a decent sound card.

Legacy and External connectors.

All motherboards now include USB connections, which are much faster and allow hot plugging. They are small slots, fitted to the back of the motherboard, and hopefully a couple of USB sockets in the front of the cases, too, for connecting printer, scanner and such like.
Hot plugging is connecting to the machine without having to turn it off first, which is excellent for using printers, scanners, cameras etc.
Firewire is a much faster version of US