survival knife design Although these are guides, the author does not advise anyone to actually build or even consider building such devices. Read, but do not act upon this information. This is because the dogs of law lie around every corner, and everyone should just live in fear of litigation from a plauge of parasitic British lawyers.
Always try to improve society rather than just take from it. Until then, lawyer stuff. Copying, duplication or transmission of this material whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the author. The contents of this text is for illustrative purposes only. Those using this information do so entirely at their own risk. No responsibility is accepted for any damage or any injury caused by this information. All rights reserved. All material herein is subject to copyright, patent and other intellectual property rights. Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 1993. 2002. 2003. Have a nice, lawyer free day.

Being long term unemployed B.Ed, B.Sc, motorcycle mechanic, technology and science teacher, marine and nuclear engineer and draughtsman, the author would like a job. Please consider this monograph a minor C.V.

No-one should try building equipment without reasonable abilities and know that injuries can ensue from the materials, tools and from testing and use.

There are many knives purporting to be survival knives.
After decades of looking, I decided there were too few good enough to do the job. The commercial selection of knives is very poor, with many pretty and polished, but poorly designed blades set into plastic handles. Worse still, if the handle breaks, the knife is almost useless. Not at all acceptable, with many professional butcher's knives offering a much better solution. Some are so-called combat knives with lots of fancy crap which may look good on some idiots posing belt, but absolutely no good in the real world of survival.
Therefore a decent knife was designed for my personal use including over the years, winter mountaineering, snowholing, surviving a large avalanche, Alps, many forms of sandy places, the sea, good old Dartmoor and whatever else may be found while enjoying this wonderful planet.

Design choices.

Depending upon ones point of view, an even more refined alternative is possible and is described below. This is based upon the finer design basics the knife has to offer, plus the authors own pragmatic approach to design and manufacture. It is believed that the latest version of this excellent commercial knife follows more along the lines of the authors design, although this is probably due to parallel evolution of good design process. (Similar to fish, dolphin mammals and penguin birds evolving towards a common form.)

The design given below is a variation on numerous fundamentally common designs. The differences of this from most commercial designs are that it is very cheap to make, has a longer, rougher saw, a full length handle which can be hit with a rock and an integral finger guard. The knife described herein is designed to work with or without a wooden handle, thus making it more usable when damaged, while also enabling it to be part of a compact survival kit, as described in the companion monograph.

There are many tools required for survival, as a good fire and simple shelter are often called for. For some people this means a poncho and matches, but a decent knife is by far the most important for survival. This allows cutting wood and generally sorting out some shelter, while also preparing wood and tinder for making fire from basics.
Such knives must have a decent size for most uses, have good balance and be capable of a lot of abuse, in other words, a well designed and built survival knife.

Typical specifications.

Silly posing survival knives and Swiss army knives do not cut down trees or dig water holes, what does is size and weight. The only Pocket knife of worth is the Mauser knife, shwon here, made by the Swiss, and their red handled equivalents with locking large main blade.

Must be applicable in all conditions, including the Arctic, mountain, desert, swamp and jungle. Must be reasonably light and compact. Must be capable of a lot of abuse. Must be large enough to make a shelter and gather enough wood for a decent fire in a short time with minimal effort. Must be able to be used as part of an animal trap, then used for gutting and skinning animals. Must be able to be used as a digging tool for roots, water and shelter. Must have a good scabbard which protects the knife and user.
All good knives must have a sharpening tool.

Some of these are conflicting. Being light and compact reduces the ability to chop down small trees to make a shelter or obtain wood. Therefore the compromise must be towards being able to do the job first. With good design, then weight and size should not necessarily compromise the ability to be carried where a survival situation may arise.
A knife that is too big to be carried all the time is of no use, so make sure it is easy to carry. An 80 percent scale knife which is easy to carry is preferable than not carrying a larger, full sized knife. See also scabbard below.

A modern problem is getting through customs and airports. Since Arab nutters pissing on us all, a thin knife as proposed, can lay flat, edge on to show up as a thin bar, along the edge of the suitcase, preferably beside the hinges, and probably pass X-ray inspection. The alloy packs for first aid etc., may not, as they will look like suspect packages. - A survival kit which is not available is always a failure.

Any knife you make may not be pretty, at least until you've mastered many skills. But the knife must be effective and reliable. Making a work of art is not always easy. But making a good knife to keep you alive in nearly all situations is within most peoples grasp.

Consider the machete, parang, golok and the Kukri as potential starting points. The superb Oakwood shown here has much in common with the parang and Kukri, but it also has much in common with many other carefully designed survival knives. But is very large, more like a machete, but probably unlikely to be carried on a regular basis. The Oakwood is ideal if you are out in the backwoods or jungle, but if just an ordinary traveller looking for a general purpose kit, then there should be some other alternative.

This Oakwood carries Lofty Wiseman's signature, while the Wilkinson was designed in partnership by Ray Mears, - so these are certainly not toys, but truly well developed pieces of the knife makers art.

For us mere mortals without a knife maker to call upon, there are indeed alternatives.

A reasonable knife should be about 11 inches to a foot long. (270 to 300mm long.)
Anything outside 220mm to 320mm long is of doubtful advantage.

Your physique will determine the actual length. If you have weak arms, then a smaller, thinner one will be lighter, and you won't get tired using it. Don't think bigger is better. A big, heavy knife does not help you survive, especially if it is too large to be carried when needed.
What actually helps is a sensible working knife design which works in harmony with your needs.
What counts is the way it works for you.
It should ideally be capable of cutting, chopping, digging, sawing, hammering and as part of an animal trap.
This is a one off special, just for you, so get it right first time.

If making a survival knife primarily for marine use, then a smaller blade which is not needed for heavy work may be preferred, then augmented with a lightweight orange handle to allow it to float, with a long, floating polypropylene cord.

Materials and sizes.
Good knives can be made from cheap materials. (Cheap does not mean inferior.) Ordinary steel is not good enough, as making a hard wearing edge requires appropriate levels of carbon in the steel to harden and hold a good cutting edge. There are specialist knife metals available, but not everyone has easy access to them. Perhaps you are in the back of nowhere, then you need serious options. For me, good metal is an old car leaf spring, about 4mm to 6mm thickness is best. A leaf spring is not the perfect metal, as a composite forged structure with steel back and carbon blade forged hamon join similar to Japanese swords is superb, while others may want the shiny finish of stainless metal. But the former takes many years to perfect, the latter is not as good as an honest piece of steel.
For zero cost and total usabilty, a leaf spring has good, rolled grain structure in the metal, is incredibly strong compared to most metals yet not shatter, takes a good edge and allows a little flexing under the worst circumstances such as splitting logs.

Look for a wide but thin leaf spring material, often found on larger vans with multi leaf semi elliptic springs. Should coist just a few quid, or free. If it's rusty, that's not a problem.

Deciding on a general size.
Get a piece of wood bigger than you can hold and shape it to your hand. Drill a hole on the wood and stick a bar of metal approximately the same weight and length of the knife into the end. Swing it around to find any places it will rub badly, then modify. If a length of 10mm or 3/8" stud bar is used, then a selection of nuts can be added to adjust the weight and balance of the proposed blade. Take time to get a feel for the right weight and size of knife required. Bash the bar against a vertical plank to see where the ideal chopping area is for cutting down a tree and how the shocks to the hand can be reduced. Decide where the best pushing and dropping point will be. Also bend the bar slightly to decide the ideal wrist angle on the handle relative to the blade. This gives a general idea of the length and weight of the knife.

Now get the shape right by drawing the size and shape of the handle on a piece of paper. Mark a centre line through the handle. The next bit is going to affect the way the knife works: As an axe, the weight should be over the cutting edge, nearer the point than the handle. A good compromise is to understand that a knife designed as an axe is easy to use in general manner. Therefore a knife designed as an axe makes a good axe and a knife. A knife designed as a knife rarely makes a good axe.

The handle can house many advantages.
Some handles of larger survival knives can be five fingers long. This may sound strange at first, but if the knife is to be used as an axe, being able to slide the hand to the end of a longer handle will give a little extra chopping swing and reduce shocks to the hand. Likewise, if the finger guard and gristle saw area is designed well, the fore finger can be positioned in front of the finger guard, (choil) for a more controlled grip on the knife for delicate work. This is only seen on the best knives and indicates that the designer has a good working knowledge of the knife as a all-purpose tool. (See page 170 of Survival by Len Cacutt. 1988.)
A long handle can be swung from the palm area for more movement, or held firmly in the hand as a standard knife, or held with the forefinger on the blade for close work. The choil, is a finger groove in front of the handle, which allows the user to safely pull harder on the knife if it gets badly stuck, and also allows the choil to strip barks of smaller branches as if a small scraper. So re assess your handle as not just a one position design, but a range of options for many situations. Take time to work out your best handle shape for close work, general work and as an axe.

A general shape should now be created, of a blade about the width of the handle, widening to a heavy cutting area a third the distance from the point. The end will curve from upper and lower sides towards a point.
The centre line of the handle and the centre line of the blade will meet at a slight angle at the hilt, because the hand is not straight with the forearm when chopping. The Kukri handle is even more pronounced in this area, but a slight angle will suffice for general purpose use.

The overall shape can now be refined to allow a long saw edge at the upper edge and a smooth curve for the cutting / chopping blade area. This is common practice on many designs.
It is highly advisable to leave a small lug at the end of the handle for a cord or lanyard hole. This may be a simple circular hole or a slot or whatever you prefer. Make sure the hole passes though the metal of the handle, so the knife is less likely to get lost. If the hole passes through the handle but not the core knife metal, then a split or loose handle can cause the knife to be lost.
A hole though the handle should allow the knife to hang with the point straight down, should it be needed for trapping. The hole position tends to cause a lanyard to lie above the profile of the handle, whereas a slot as used in some of my designs, does not obstruct the use of the handle. A slot also allows more lashing turns through this hole for various uses, should two cords be needed or when tying to a pole. I also prefer a solid, flush butt to the handle, allowing it to be hammered without splitting a wood handle, so a solidly designed slot is my preference for all round use for both standard knives with handles and especially for survival knives.

A finger guard can also be left in the metal just in front of the blade side of the handle to protect the fingers. If the finger guard is curved in towards the fingers, the fingers may get trapped or grazed. If the finger guard curves away from the fingers, the guard will tend to dig in earlier, to stop with more room between obstruction, to give a curve which helps to pull the knife out of hard wood without damaging the handle. If the guard has a rough or serrated outer face, it is less likely to slip around the obstruction, further protecting the fingers. If needed, a finger guard could have a small slightly sharp end pointing forward to prevent any sliding from going further than needed. This could be used a partial lifting hook, similar to bottle caps, but must primarily be a finger guard. When used with the blade facing away the finger guard could also be used to dig into and turn small branches or bars. If the serrations are well designed, then even nuts or bolts could also be considered. Having the finger guard curving away from the fingers would make lashing the knife to a pole for fishing much more secure. See the authors knives, later. If the leaf spring is not wide enough for the finger guard, it can be built up with ordinary welding, as it does not have to hold a cutting edge.

General design.
The drawing to the right shows what I consider a perfect knife, with the compromises well balanced to offer maximum possibilities with minimal problems.
The overall shape is lightly Kukri, to give a moderate chopping style of the overall knife, beit hacking through jungle or hacking down small trees or bamboo.
The weight is forward of the handle, and not like a constant tapering blade, which gives no weight effect. This blade, with the weight forward allows the user to build up momentum in the blade before the edge lands, so the heavier forward body of the blade can work before it strikes.
The wide frontal blade also acts far better as a digging implement and this is improved with the five finger handle so both hands can be used.
The tip of the blade is almost over the lanyard hole, to become a drop point suitable for spear fishing and as a drop trap.
The lanyard hole is a slot to allow many passes of cord for various traps or lashing to a pole. The wide rear also allows easier pushing with the palm, and allows a wooden branch to be used as an extra hammer area if splitting logs. If a narrow end, (or worse still, a screw end), then ths could cause more problems. Whereas a wide, solid steel hilt can offer many extra uses, including use of the palm, a branch or rocks to help split wood and to dig with both hands on the knife.

The saw back is such that it is drawn towards the user for safety in use, so the hand will not slip and get caught as if the blade was forward facing, Backwards facing saw blade allows the knife to enter an animal or fish easier, and the sawing action on a high branch, is always easier on a downward stroke.
The handle is undercut to allow parracord to be wrapped around it for general use, without slipping off. The handle is also coated with yellow paint or epoxy with a little sand sprinkled into it to prevent slipping. When in use, the yellow is easily concealed by the hand for stalking, but when dropped, can be easily found again.
The cutting edges vary around the circumference, with the saw back being long and therefore much more useful than shorter versions. The upper tip is fine for gutting, The tip is not so sharp, but stronger for general purpose use without breaking or loosing a reasonable edge. The main cutting edge is likewise general purpose for chopping trees, and digging, while the blade nearer the handle gets much finer and sharper for whittling and dressing meat. A gristle saw may also be added here if necessary for those who regularly live off the land.
I hope this has given an insight as to how you may wish to approach survival knife design.

Blade manufacture.

When cutting out the profile, leave the blank attached to the rest of the leaf spring, so you can stand on the spring and cut the metal. If using just a small blank, then nail the blank to a plank of wood to allow you to grind the profile safely.

As a leaf spring is of limited width, the 'saw back' should lie along one side of the metal to maximise the amount of metal available. As the saw will need to be square edged, the least rounded face of the leaf spring should be chosen for the saw back.

Roughly cut out the shape, then use this basic shape to get a feel of the knife. Hammer it against an upright plank to see how it handles under heavy blows. The heaviest / widest part of the blade may need to be varied slightly, but should not be close to the handle, as this causes shocks on the hand when used as an axe.
When the general shape is refined, possibly smaller or with a slightly different shape to that shown, then trim the outside to a smooth profile. As you may have to use this knife without a wood handle, then also make sure the profile is suitable for all uses under extreme circumstances, such as when the wooden handle is damaged or removed.

The hand profile around the handle should be cut back by 3mm on the upper and lower edges, to allow upper and lower wood inserts. Should the wood be damaged or removed, this must still leave enough metal for the hand to securely use the knife. This also allows the use of parracord for the handle.
Make sure the metal is full width at the end of the handle for about 10mm. so it can be hammered without splitting any wooden handle. Unlike many knives, I never use a separate pommel, should the butt end of the knife be used as a hammer, or if the knife itself is hammered at the end. This solid end section will protect the wood handle should the knife be hit with a rock or branch to split small logs. The shape should also be such that the end of the handle is slightly larger than the grip area, so a smooth handle is less likely to slip out of the hand. The slot for the lanyard will allow it to be suspended in a trap by more than one cord, so it won't run away. The abilty to have many turns in the end allows it to be bundled to a float for safety in ocean use. The slot also allows climbers tape should it be preferred or needed.

A cord hole can now be drilled in the metal near the end of the handle, as a slot or perhaps in an extruding lug cut as part of the core knife metal. The end hole depends upon the styles and uses for the knife.
Always drill the hole first, then grind the metal around it to a suitable thickness, as drilling a hole in a dressed piece of metal may not always be in the correct position, so always drill the hole first.
The core of the handle can now be hollowed out to lighten the knife without weakening the handle. I personally do not like the thinness of the W knife handle, shown here, and prefer a little more metal, plus a better way to secure the handle.
Do not remove too much metal, as the knife must be able to be used in the harshest manner. The resultant hole in the handle is a logical place for storing some components, but a removable handle may be a compromise if not done well.
Note that, if the W handle or its retaining screw thread is damaged is lost or broken, then the remaining handle is just the poorly designed metal part. Admittedly this can be used, but in a survival sutuation, a decent handle must be available under all circumstances. Therefore you may wish to make the metal handle area as a fully working design from the outset, and thus be free of one less potential problem area. I prefer a little more metal in my handle area, should I be pigsticking or harpooning using a bamboo pole, or similarly enhanced lever system which could apply undue forces to the handle. See later.

The handle will normally be built up in wood, but in survival conditions, the wood may split or burn away. Therefore a reasonable working profile must be made in the handle area to allow the naked knife to be used in emergency. Test that the bare handle can be used without damaging the hand. A little smoothing and radiusing of the edges must allow a badly damaged or woodless handle to be used without injuring the user.
If needed, the slightly reduced outer width of the handle will allow for inserts for the standard handle shaped in wood and if done properly, the broken wood can be removed and strong cord wrapped around the metal to make an improvised slip proof handle and for use in Arctic conditions.
You must be able to use the handle in it's basic form to eliminate any possible problems should the handle be compromised in a survival situation. Another advantage of this flat, one piece approach is that just the basic, narrow blade can be fitted neatly in compact emergency survival packs, as mentioned in the companion monograph on survival kits.
I have made many excelent wooden handles, but now prefer my survival knives to have parracord handles. See Nato mods, later.

Profiling the blade.

Draw a curved line about half way between cutting edge and the saw edge. This will give a curved line. Between this mid line and the cutting edge, the flanks of the knife can now be ground.
The grinding is to be hollow ground, which is slightly concave.
To make a heavy knife, the curved line can be closer to the blade and the flanks need only be lightly ground back. Whereas for a lighter knife, the curved line can be further from the cutting edge, allowing more of the blade metal to be removed. See my knives described later for different hollow grinds for lighter and heavier knives. This area can be hollow ground by using the angle grinder. Regularly test the balance as the grinding continues.

To hollow ground the flanks, the grinding disc is positioned at a slight angle to the blade, so the surface is slightly hollow. A good, general purpose knife usually has an average amount of grinding to maintain sensible weight and balance.
NEVER grind right down to a sharp point, but leave the cutting edge with a 1/16th inch or 2mm wide edge to give a perfect line when seen down the length of the blade.
If you cannot temper and harden the edges, (see later) then ALWAYS keep the blade cool. Have a bucket of water nearby for occasional plunging when the metal begins to turn a light straw colour.
I use an engineers vice. As constant removal from a restraint is annoying, then clamp the blade to a piece of plywood with 'mole grips' or other self gripping clamps.

The grinder should be moved along the full length of the blade so the grinding is fairly even. Occasionally grind lightly across the blade to see where any high points are, and to keep the overall shape neat and tidy. By constantly making the grinding marks at different angles, the high spots can be more easily seen, helping create a more evenly ground blade. Never let the blade get hot, so always have a bucket of cold water nearby.
If you have access to a large rotating sandstone, then this is the way the best knives are ground to shape, as the water flowing over the rotating stone keeps the blade cool.

This is the stage when the blade begins to look correct. Do not make a posing blade, but an honest, strong and effective working blade. Always wear eye, ear and breathing protection while grinding.

Saw edge.
The saw edge can be cut to match the best saw for trees, not too fine so the teeth clog, but not too coarse so the teeth jam in the wood of medium branches. 4 to 6mm pitch usually suffices. The direction of the teeth are usually to allow the teeth to be cutting in the direction of the handle, as the knife is drawn towards the user. This is partly to allow a safe action while sawing. If the branch is high up, dragging downwards is easier. Also a slipped cut will not damage the forearm. This tooth direction will also allow better stabbing of a tough animal and will help protect the saw teeth when used as a digging spade.
Mark out the teeth evenly across the back of the blade and make the depth line. As the leaf spring will have a rounded edge which must be filed or ground flush, use this wasted excess material to make the even spacing prior to cutting the final form of the teeth.
Saw cuts are an art. A simple saw cut is not as effective as a double angle cut, but is much stronger if a little less efficient. The double angle, as seen on many garden pruning and cutting blades may seem better as the saw does not jump from tooth to tooth so badly, with a more even cut. Making basic saw teeth is best, unless the builder is a professional saw sharpener. It is usually preferable to cut basic teeth which tend to last longer, are more damage tolerant and easier to sharpen. A fancy knife is not a reliable knife.
Saw the teeth as a series of V cuts when looking from the side of the blade. You may wish to angle these to slightly mimic the more advanced forms. It is important that the cutting tips of the teeth are sharp, right to the very sides of the blade, to ensure it will not jam in the wood too easily. Although the initial saw teeth can be cut with a hacksaw, greater finesse can then be applied in conjunction with a narrow 'V' file. Never make a fine saw blade, but a strong, survival blade. A blade which is perfect for cutting branches in a garden may soon fail when cutting tree roots covered with rocks in deep snow or rocky gravel of a dry river bed.

Beginners should start by practising cutting the saw blade on a spare piece of metal, marking out the ideal angle and distance between each tooth. (1) Then cutting and profiling around this, with a slight back rake to the teeth (2) and then enlarging the root for wood clearance (3). The last piece of filing is the cutting edges, and is done by filing gently along the top of all the teeth so that are the same height. Then the teeth are marked with a felt tip marker, so the final back rake can be applied to leave just a small amount of marker near the cutting edge. Do not be afraid to use various styles until proficient. This skill can then be applied to the knife itself. The cutting edges must be left blunt and oversize, to allow for final sharpening after hardening. The only accuracy at this stage is to have all the teeth filed to the same profile and height, making a straight line so all the teeth will do equal amounts of cutting work.
At this stage, the cutting edges of the saw teeth should be filed or lightly ground to a flat edge, so the edges of the teeth will cut cleanly. The undercuts are filed or carefully ground using a cutting disc to come close to the upper face of the teeth. I clamp my knives in a vice and angle the knife, so the grinder enters the undercuts horizontally, so that all the teeth get the same profile. I put a felt tip marker across the cutting edges of the teeth so I don't damage them when undercutting with the cutting disc.

On the main cutting blade edge, near the handle, some knives serrate the section of knife blade closest to the handle to become a gristle saw, so tougher animal flesh can be processed more easily. For a neat set of serrations, use a small hacksaw blade, or if available, use a thread file, which will have a selection of pitches to match the use. This gives a neat and tidy set of serrations. If the blade is heavily curved, then the thread file can be used to make the spacings, and a small V file used to finish the serrations as required. If not used for specific work, then this area of a standard blade can be kept ultra sharp for finer work such as making fire sticks.
If the choil next tothe finger guard, is given a sharp edge, it can be used as a scraper perhaps when making a bow and arrows.
I like to make the lower finger gaurd to have a few saw-like teeth so the finger gaurd does not slip. If curving forwards, this will allow the finger gaurd to lever off can lids or rotate small branches.

Leave the cuting edge slightly thick as this will be refined later.

The final shape of the knife blade should now be refined and polished. For pretty knives, this can be done with the angle grinder using metal linishing discs to give a fine finish. If a finger guard was not cut in the blade, then a guard can be added later by sliding a very tight fitting steel or brass hilt over the knife then drilling and riveting in place with brass rivets. Riveted guards are not as strong as a simple metal finger guard shaped as part of the original piece of metal. Remember that this is a survival tool, not an ornament. Some finger guards are welded in place, using just a few small welds which do not compromise the strngth of the balde.
I do not finish off my knives to a very fine finish, simply because they are work tools, not exhibition pieces. If I wanted a pretty knife, I would be less prone to get it dirty, scratched or worn, which is of course, a negative survival trait. A solid, plain and easy to live with knife is always in use, impervious to prettiness and therefore always at the cutting edge of survival skills.
I prefer to darken my blades, and use a yellow or white parracord handle. See later.

Make your own choice - a pretty knife, or a pretty damn useful knife.

Carefully finish off the blade if needed by polishing, but leave the handle with a rough, but not sharp finish. This gives more grip for a bare metal handle and ensures the handle is bonded more securely. If you have access to a shot blaster, then take advantage of this for the handle area.

A basic cutting edge can now be made, but it must not be too sharp, just a slight attempt to refine the cutting edge. If the true edge was to be made at this stage, the edge can become too brittle. A one millimetre wide cutting edge will suffice.
DO NOT make a sharp cutting edge at this time.

Tempering then Hardening.
If you wish, the blade can be heat treated. This is not always needed, as a leaf spring which has not gone brown while grinding will hold a very good edge and the knife will still remain very strong.
If you have allowed the metal to get too hot, or you wish to refine the knife, then consider tempering and hardening.

Tempering.
Make a good fire in the back yard, old barbecue, or in the fireplace, and be prepared to blow into the base to keep the heat high. Get the metal cherry red and then let the blade cool very slowly in air, or on the side of the barbeque or in the cinders below the fireplace. This makes the metal softer, more tough than hard, which ensures it does not shatter or break. If getting to cherry red is difficult, use coke over the fire and a forced draught. Barbecue fuel bricks and a large piece of plywood as a fan will often suffice.

At this stage, any scrolling, decoration or other embellishment can be added, or an owners name, or 'PAX' stamped on the knife to show its a tool, not a weapon. If the metal has a gentle curve from the leaf spring, it can be hammered out at this stage, preferably between three heavy pieces of wood. The blade can now be polished to remove any imperfections and to allow the hardening temperature to be read. A linishing disc on the angle grinder makes an excellent polishing tool.

Hardening.
To make the cutting edge hard, first lightly polish the metal. Now very carefully heat gently to a light to mid brown evenly across the blade. Then plunge into cold water. Do not let the cutting edge get hotter than this, as the trade off between hardness and toughness will get worse. Light brown is the colour used for the cutting edges of cold chisels, which are used to cut through steel, but must not shatter under the heavy hammering they must take. Making a harder cutting edge is of no use if it is going to break.
As the cutting edges are thin, they tend to heat quicker, so the knife should be carefully and gently heated in a way that allows all the cutting edges to gradually turn brown at the same time and this can be very difficult. Hold the handle by pliers or tongs, taking your time and very carefully watch the colours on the polished metal blade as they gradually change. This is difficult, so a closest state usually suffices. Start by allowing the blade to warm through beside the fire, then position far above the flames and gradually build up the heat through the blade. When all the cutting areas are just turning mid brown, plunge into cold water and stir to cool quickly. As the handle is held while the blade is gradually heated to straw colour, it will not be heated so much as the blade, to give a handle with a good balance between hardness and toughness.

Ideally the whole knife should be mid brown, with just a hint of blue on the cutting edges. The the blade plunged in water, followed by the handle.

If the heating starts to go through to the blue stage, then plunge in water and test the edge as it may not be too brittle. The main part of the cutting blade should be the main guide. A little dark brown or light blue difference across the blade on the minor areas may often be acceptable for general use, as it's a survival knife, not a jet turbine blade. If the heating is not good enough, simply re-temper, polish and try again.

For those who want the best from a single piece of metal, then you can apply a technique used by the Japanese for their best knives. The blade can be coated with clay around the centre of the blade and handle, with the clay thinned out towards the knife and saw edges. When dried, this allows the clay to protect the core of the knife from excess heat, and thus from getting too hard and will remain tough, but allow the cutting edges to take on the hardness preferred. By varying the thickness of the clay, from a few millimetres, to noting at the cutting edges, the knife can take better cutting edges.

It is advisable to leave the colours on the blade, as this will reduce the tendency of the metal to rust. Some may prefer to polish their blades. Others will prefer to darken them for escape and evasion situations. To blacken a blade, simply heat it gently, the plunge in old oil. Repeat until dark enough, but never allow it to get near the hardening temperatures.

Once the blade is ready, it can be finished.
First the handle, then the cutting edges.
Then the vitally important preparation for a life of waiting to be used.
The blade will either be used as part of a survival kit, as described in the companion monograph, or have a handle fitted.

Handle.

Full wooden handle.
If a handle is to be fitted, thoroughly clean the handle area, then glue wood in the handle recesses, and on the upper and lower edges, using a strong two part epoxy glue. Allow the wood to exceed the width of the metal, as this will be filed flush later. The wood will act as the central filler for the upper area for the palm, and the lower part of the handle where the fingers will grasp. See also hollow handles.
Woods vary.
A strong, shock resistant wood is best. This means a good, close grain wood such as mahogany, teak or iroko. As my knives are English, I often use oak. There is a vast range of woods, so choose whatever is appropriate. If in doubt, simply use an old pick axe handle for suitable good wood.
Let the wood overlap generously and clamp lightly. When set, file the sides of the wood flush with the steel. Then gently profile the wood until a reasonable profile, checking the metal ends of the handle for a perfect grip. Epoxy two pieces of wood either side of the handle and clamp tight until set.
Shape the handle to match the test handle. Work slowly and gradually until a perfect fit. Do not use the angle grinder, as it is too fierce. Use simple files to gradually reduce the wood as it is constantly tested for a perfect fit. If using the knife in winter, then also test for fit while using gloves. Finger lumps are a personal choice, but the end of the handle should be a little larger to prevent it sliding out of the hand in wet or slippery conditions when used as a knife, as a saw, as a digger and as an axe. Do not make just a nice fit, but also use the knife by heavy chopping and digging, to see if the hand tends to slip off the handle. If in doubt, grind off the side pieces and start again until perfect. Make sure it can be used with either hand.

Where a hole is to pass through the wood handle to take a cord, sleeve this hole with brass tubing. Where a hole has already been drilled in the metal body to allow a lighter handle, it should be located with a small drill which is then opened out with a round file. Cut any brass tubing so it stands just above the wood. Glue the tube in position, then before the epoxy sets, fit a large ball bearing or other spherical object in each end of the tube and hammer gently to flange out the ends of the tube into the wood. Finish by slightly recessing the brass tube with fine sandpaper so it will not rub on the skin, then just give it a little more recess just to be safe to prevent skin abrasion. The brass tube or the hole in the external lug must be very smooth, as the lanyard or retaining cord must not fray with use.
I rarely use brass sleeved holes. Where a hole is designed as an external part of the metal blade, it should first be filed smooth and then further smoothed inside the hole. This can be done in many ways, such as with small round files, then finished to a very smooth finish with small strips of emery cloth, or by using sticks or cord covered in grinding paste, then metal polish. This is important, as an abrasive hole can lead to fraying of the retaining cord and thus loosing the knife.

Hollow handle with kit.
Two main forms; survival kit in a wooden handle or in a bare handle.
Wood handle.
If insisting on carrying items inside the wooden handle, there are many methods without upsetting the main part of the handle. If the knife is used predominantly by the right hand, then the hollow centre can be accessed with a small wooden panel set in the right hand side. This is because the fingers exert more of a pressure than the palm area on the side of the handle. As the opening must be able to remain closed at all times, be waterproof and shock proof, yet be accessible, then clips or other subtle designs are not suitable, especially if being used in a rough manner.
There are many ways to make handle opening, but most are not reliable, nor shock proof nor waterproof. A simple tight fitting piece of wood can be retained using plenty of blue office tacky putty. A simple finger nail slit will allow access to pull out the panel, but it must be difficult to remove, as the wood insert must remain in place under all conditions while remaining shock and waterproof.
To make a hollow, decide which side you finger tips will grip the handle, then place the opening on the other side, should the panel be lost. The wood is drilled before gluing to the handle to make a long plug which will allow removal of the intended contents. I make a long, hole along the handle, then file a tapered edge to it. The front edge of the plug is given an undercut to physically retain the plug in place. A plug of wood is then fitted into the hole then filed flush. The inside is then filed to allow plenty of room and a finger notch added to aid removal. This is then retained using a strong form of adhesive office putty used to sticking pieces of paper together. This makes it waterproof and shockproof.

Bare handle.
My preferred method of retaining kit in the handle is described in the Nato knife modification described later, where the package is contained in an alloy foil wrap, then retained in the handle by wrapping the handle area with parracord, as this widens the options available. For flat packing in a survival kit, then the internal foil wrapped kit can be retained with strong parcel tape.
As mentioned in the accompanying monograph on survival kits, the hollow handle may be used for stowing an attached lanyard.

There are many ways to finish and protect a wood handle. One method is to polish with wood oil, then sanding again and further wood oil which leaves the wood smooth but not slippery. Another method is to cover the handle in epoxy, as this gives a hard, smooth and resilient finish. If to be used in swamps or icy conditions, then the epoxy can be mixed with a little sand before applying to give a rougher, non slip finish. Always experiment with sand and epoxy mixtures to get the best for personal use. For a more subtle effect, it is possible to mix or sprinkle sand into the epoxy just where needed before setting, with other parts of the handle left smooth. Do not allow the handle surface to abrade the skin, but merely to make it slip resistant.
Covering the handle with sheet or interwoven leather is also a possibility for some users. Finish the handle in whatever material is preferred. If not happy, the handle can be easily dressed back and new wood glued to the handle until perfect.

A true survival knife must be capable of being used by either hand, as the user may be injured.

Cutting edges.

A sharper edge will cut easier but wear faster and is easier to break. An edge with a coarser angle will wear better and less likely to break when used as an axe. Never remove more metal than needed.
Do not expect a survival knife blade to have the same cutting edge profile on all sections. The area near the handle is usually sharper, but the chopping are under the area of maximum weight is given a stronger, less sharp cutting edge which cannot break or blunt easily. Sharp cutting edges usually have a shallow angle, while axe cutting edges have slightly wider angles. They can all be razor sharp, but have different angles to take account of uses and wear profiles.

File the back of the saw teeth so they are all level, then dress them back to their cutting edges. Mark the upper edges of the saw teeth with a felt marker to guide your hand and then sharpen each tooth while using a piece of aluminium to protect the adjacent tooth.

The sides of the blade can retain their brown oxide finish, which reduces rust and makes the knife harder to see if hunting is important. Some of my knives have dark blades and bright yellow handles, so they are not seen when used in the hand, but easy to find when dropped or misplaced. If you have a shiny bright blade, then simply coat in with coloured permanent marker pen, and although not the same as a dark oil heated finish, this will do for hunting or escape or evasion programmes.

The final process for the citting edges is to ensure they are ready when needed, but not before.

Rub and gently melt candle wax over the cutting edges and the saw back.
Then protect the cutting edges with a couple layers of masking tape as they may not be used for many years. When needed, the masking tape will offer no problems to the cutting action in an emergency as it will peel off in use. The wax will prevent rusting and aid in the cutting process, or may be scraped off to make an impromptu candle with a dry grass wick. (I do this on my boating knives, where a rope may tangle your foot or arm and need to be cut immediaatly, yet never compromise a lifejacket with a sharp edge. Hence the masking tape is always worth doing. Always be prepared beforehand.)

At this stage, a good survival knife is made.
It is a dangerous tool and must be kept under control. There are many skills to be learnt when using such a tool and they all involve safety first.
When chopping, cutting, sawing, gutting, skinning, whittling and all other uses, study the way the blade can cause accidents and adjust your methods to prevent accidents. - Remember that this tool may need to be used in heavy rain or muddy slime, while disoriented, weak and having to use the other hand.
Learning to use the knife with the other hand while in a genuine survival situation is leaving this exercise far too late.

Now take the knife to the back garden and dig a water hole two feet deep. Then saw and cut down a branch the size of your forearm. Clean in fresh water then dress a piece of meat or a chicken from the larder.

Adjust or modify as needed.
Sharpen, clean, dry, wax and tape the knife.

Preparation and practice makes perfect.

Scabbards.

A good scabbard should be out of the way when not required, but allow easy access to the knife safely and securely. The scabbard must also be easy to insert the knife and hold it securely.
A loose scabbard that moves about too much is annoying and can slowly damage the wearers clothes or skin.
It is important to decide if a left or right handed scabbard is to be made. This will decide on which side of the body the knife is positioned and whether the user is left or right handed. This will ensure that the blade is easily accessible. But more importantly is the ability for it to be replaced securely and safely without injury, as in a survival situation the user may be injured, disoriented, exhausted and weak.

Soft scabbards.
A 'soft' scabbard is normally used when hung from a belt in the traditional manner. In some cases, a completely rigid scabbard is often preferred where the knife is stuffed in the top of a rucksack, on a chest strap, or slid into a gap as part of a military belt pouch system. Always design the scabbard according to its use.
Never be in a position where you will dump your rucksack and jacket of the ground after along trek, and leave your survival knife with it. The survival knife must be separate and always with you, whether ambushed or in a crash or just off for a pee.

Good, thick, strong leather is still the best for a soft scabbard, although modern plastics such as kydex (TM) and other materials can be used in various ways.

Place the knife in the expected position for carrying, then carefully check body clearances and also to check the best position for the belt slots. The traditional belt slot is excellent for most situations, perhaps with a bottom hole for tying to the thigh, although a 'high loop' is often added should the terrain be dense or you need to crawl or swim.
Where the knife is kept horizontally in the small of the back, or along a chest strap, the 'belt' loops may be positioned elsewhere and at different angles on the scabbard.
I always make my scabbards with standard belt loop, a high loop AND a longitudinal pair of loops for carrying the knife in the small of the back and in a shoulder harness. I have personally never carried survival knives hanging from a belt loop.
Never make a survival knife scabbard dependant upon a specific harness system. In an emergency, the knife and it's scabbard should be able to be instantly carried with whatever the user is wearing or can improvise for the occasion.

Traditional scabbard.
The rear leather sheet of the scabbard is laid over the knife and a belt loop folded over on the upper part. The shape of the knife is marked around the profile. Leave more room around the drop point and the sharp cutting edges, so the knife is held evenly across most of the blade, rather than want to poke out of the bottom.
If a suitably sized sheet of leather is available, or perhaps a wide belt, the leather can be laid from the finger guard, fold under the point, along the back of the knife and fold over the back of the handle to make a secure belt loop, using just one piece of leather.
If two slits are used in the back piece to take the belt, then these slits should be cut between two smooth round drill holes, so the ends of the slots are less likely to split. Then chamfer the appropriate sides of the slits so the belt slides through more easily.
For those who cherish a very sharp knife, a nylon or HDPE insert can be added over the cutting edge prior to marking out. The nylon or similar plastic insert can be made from two strips which can lie each side of the cutting edge when the two halves of the scabbard are sewn together. For the wider saw edge, a few extra layers of leather can be built up between the front and rear halves for a more tailored scabbard. This may also employ a nylon or HDPE lining.
The scabbard is not cut to shape at this stage, but deliberately left oversize. The holes are pierced or drilled to allow double sewing of the two halves together. Do not use stainless steel wire for sewing as it does not allow the leather to shape itself with time. A good, strong waxed cord is preferable, as used by leather workers. Use double stitching, were the threads are sewn from both sides so that if one thread should fail, the other will act as backup.
Because the knife edge can soon cut this stitching, a few copper rivets should also be fitted first, before the stitching to protect the stitching in susceptible areas. Copper can protect the stitching, but being softer than steel, will not damage the cutting edge of the knife. Use wide head rivets which will not pull through the softer leather and rivet the other side after fitting a copper washer. Do not over-compress the rivet into the leather, but aim for a similar tension as the stitching. If it loosens with time, simply rivet it a little more with a pebble. The wide head and washer ensure greater longevity. Always wax the rivets with a hard wax prior to insertion, to reduce long term corrosion between copper and leather.
A safety strap is now added, usually over the finger guard, or around the handle. This must not be easy to undo, yet allow easy access for the user. Many commercial designs use snap fasteners, but these are prone to failure in extreme conditions such as ice, unless properly secured and well greased or waxed. Always make a fail safe design, such as a retaining cord or strap and buckle.
If wished, a pouch for an oil stone or diamond stick can also be integrated, but this should be fitted before the scabbard is sewn together.

Before sewing, the oversize scabbard material with knife taped in position can be offered up to the wearer, then the ideal belt or other position finalised. When the best position is chosen, the best slots can be made. It is better to drill the ends of the slots first, then cut the slot between them, so they will not tear further. The rounder shape of the drill holes will help prevent tearing in both leather and plastic scabbards. The belt slots should then be carefully chamfered so the belt can slide through smoothly, without any unnecessary raised edges or distortion.
Where a belt loop is used, the height of the loop will position the scabbard relative to the waist line, allowing the scabbard to dangle, or to be held higher, closer to the body. It is not unusual to integrate both an upper and a lower belt loop for different situations.
I always add a lengthways belt loop along the long side of the scabbard, so the knife can be carried horizontally on a belt, held in the small of the back as part of a very small survival kit.

The edge of the scabbard can now be shaped and trimmed to give plenty of room around the rivets and stitching. If the knife is to be worn over the thigh, perhaps for jungle use, then a gunslinger style of lower thigh cord can also be accommodated with lower loops made in the leather. Do not leave any sharp edges on the scabbard, as it may lie against the skin for many weeks.
The leather should now be treated with leather oil. A thick layer of leather oil may be added inside so the blade remains rust free. I prefer candle wax, as this gradually melts to retain the knife in position and less prone to slip out if the retainment fails, and also can act as a fire starting material and a good salt water rust proofing.

Where the scabbard is laid across the small of the back, along the line of the belt, then the belt loop is sewn parallel to the line of the scabbard. I always try to have all three belt loop positions. This has my soft scabbards with an low and high slung standard belt loops, plus two extra loops so the scabbard can be carried compactly along the length of the belt.
Not everyone has access to hide or modern synthetic scabbard materials. A good alternative from the car scrap yard is the nylon webbing used for seat belts. If the knife is not too wide, then this makes a cheap alternative, although a HDPE liner will be needed to prevent the blade causing damage to the stitching. An old thick rucksack material can also make suitable soft scabbard material.

Rigid scabbards.
Rigid scabbards have been used for bayonets and military use for hundreds of years. The advantage of a rigid scabbard is the ability to stuff it inside a rucksack and to easily extract and replace it with minimal effort, as the scabbard does not collapse when the knife is removed. This makes it particularly useful for fitting to other equipment. It is not so useful for general purpose use.
One occasion where a rigid scabbard is employed, is as part of a quick grab personal survival kit and as such, the scabbard is also part of the packaging. Such a design may be clipped to a shoulder-strap or other luggage item, or as in the case of the authors survival kit, to lie horizontally in the small of the back. In this situation, the rigid scabbard prevents damage to the wearer and allows the knife to be easily extracted and replaced without upsetting the rest of the soft survival components.
For a rigid scabbard, some methods are described, although there are many others. The simplest is a plastic lining and wrap, the other is a high density polyethylene one piece moulding.

Lining and wrap.
Cover the blade with thick polythene sheet or similar. Plastic car engine oil container will suffice. Look for HDPE, high density polyethylene recycling mark, as this plastic is the same as used in prosthetic hip joints, long wearing and safe. The plastic is shaped to cover the blade by folding to make a parallel tube for the blade to slide into. The pointed end of the plastic can be gently melted to form a snug fit. A bare flame, heated metal bar or a soldering iron can be used to weld the plastic to a good fit, with further plastic built up around the edges to protect the cutting edges such as the saw if required. The knife should be able to slide in with a snug fit. At this stage, a very basic scabbard which covers just the blade is made which can be used as part of a compact emergency survival kit.
The blade is then removed and holes cut in the flanks of the plastic sheet to prevent this slippery insert from sliding out of the composite outer sheath. The blade is built up into a parallel shape with modelling clay and then covered in masking tape so the dummy flanks remain parallel, allowing the blade to be easily removed. Parcel tape is ideal. It is then lightly covered in candle wax as a moulding blank and replaced in the plastic cover.

Aramid or carbon cloth or ribbon is laid over the knife to make the main support and belt loop. It is unlikely that a single strand of carbon will suffice, as the area around the hilt will tend to flex and eventually break. I prefer Aramid (Kevlar (TM)) as it is cheaper and stronger, often being used in bullet proof vests. The hilt area of the scabbard should have a wide spread of the composite in this area, made possible with three layers, one which can wrap around the knife opposite the finger guard. The belt loop, wherever it is fitted, will need a dummy piece of plastic inserted to represent the belt, or the belt itself can be covered in masking tape and inserted. The aramid is then covered in a light coat of resin which is stippled in fully with a small stiff brush. Further aramid ribbon or sheet is immediately wrapped over the assembly and also resined fully.
To make a snug fit over the blade, finger guard and around the handle, cover the whole assembly with food cling film and squeeze between two sand bags for a good, snug profile as it hardens. There is a 'green' stage in the epoxy curing, where the resin is set in it's shape, but still a little soft. Use this occasion to carefully remove the knife before the resin sets fully, to check that no excess resin is constraining the blade. Trim as required.
Instead of sand bags to compress the moulding, some may wish to apply vinyl tape as used for electrical repair, over the composite while it sets, to make a tighter fit of the composite and to help remove excess resin. If so, apply the tape sticky side out for convenience and a smoother finish. Do not apply the vinyl too tight so the blade cannot be removed. Add a layer of resin over any exposed aramid, as it is a skin irritant.
I then epoxy a diamond impregnated steel 'oil stone' into the outer face. These are perforated steel strips impregnated with diamond, so will be easily mounted to the side of the scabbard. Position it well, so the whole blade can be sharpened.

One piece moulding.
For those who wish to try making a one piece moulding, there are many ways, but some are complex. High density polyethylene, (HDPE) is used for prosthetic hips, but also available from engine oil containers and other divers items. Such materials are marked for recycling purposes.
A basic mould is to make a dummy wooden copy of the blade, but with parallel sides to allow the mould to slide out. It must slide out easily, so should be covered in parcel tape and coated with candle wax, preventing the molten plastic from sticking. Ensure the dummy blade also has a profile of the handle. A wood mould is best as it does not cool the plastic too quickly, allowing time for the whole to be moulded as one piece.
The plastic is chopped up and melted in a pan, then simply poured. A lot of plastic will be needed, so have at least fifty percent more than expected. If the plastic is too cold, it will not flow fully. The best is to dip a piece of wood into the melted plastic to see how it behaves. When about right, it can be poured over the knife blank or into a mould.
If the wooden blade is given a longer handle, then the plastic can be poured over the wood, such that is it moved to keep a constant thickness of plastic over the blank, rather like dipping a toffee apple. This only gives a basic shape, whereas a mould allows a more complex shape.
An outer wooden mould is a simple open box design, shaped as the longer back part of the scabbard. Use small nails to hold the mould together and allow easy disassembly after moulding. The handle area is stepped down slightly, so the blade and the handle have a strong thickness of plastic. This is simply done by adding an extra piece under the blade area, so the handle is stepped down and chamfered to give a smooth surface. This mould can then be finished with plaster or other non-melting filler to make a good rear profile for the scabbard, so that less trimming of the plastic is needed. Taking plenty of time to make an accurately fitting core will give a neat, light and even thickness scabbard.
The bridge piece can be made as part of the dummy blade so that pouring is a single process. There should also be three or four small spacer pins nailed on the base, to support the wooden dummy blade off the base, for the right thickness of the scabbard.
If the reader feels confident, then coarse glass fibre can be added to the mould to make a very strong design.
The pouring will start in the handle area, then work along to the blade area, then the dummy blade pushed into the molten plastic. The bridge piece is immediately positioned to keep further plastic from flowing over the upper handle area. If incorporating a fibreglass wrap, this is folded over. More plastic is immediately poured in to cover the rest of the blade. After a few dry runs, this can be done in one very quick process and the moulding will be perfect. If the dummy blade wants to float, simply push on the bridge piece until the plastic has set. If the plastic runs under the bridge piece then pour cold water into the area behind the bridge piece.
If keen, the plastic moulding can be quite complex to allow a subtle one-piece moulding. Internal strengthening wires can be included. The wire must be heated with the plastic as it is melted, then inserted with the plastic as it is poured.
When set, the inner mould will be difficult to remove, as much of the plastic will have flowed around the handle. This will require careful carving, then the inner mould forced out, testing the strength of the scabbard moulding quite well.
When cool, the moulding is then trimmed and fitted to the knife. If wishing to keep the weight low leave only strong areas between belt and blade, with a strengthening ridge around the upper lip. Then file down the rest with a rough file followed by scraping with a sharp blade. Tap the plastic regularly with a pencil or by flexing the plastic to check the thickness. Use the inner mould to check the scabbard thickness, not the knife. For a smooth finish, a light flame can finally be played over the thicker parts of the plastic.
Belt slots should be angled through the thick plastic without causing excessive bends in the belt. The belt slot opened up with a piece of sheet steel the same size as the belt and heated to mould the plastic to a better shape for the belt slots.
To retain the knife should the clip or safety strap break, the scabbard can then be heated slightly along the flank and a weight applied, deforming the flank enough so the blade will need a little effort to push it into position. This prevents rattling and acts as a secondary retainment mechanism.
The advantage of a plastic scabbard is that it can take much abuse from the cutting edges without damaging them. By making a slight friction across the flanks when inserting, a well worn scabbard will do it's job of protecting the blade and user over many years, even where a very sharp saw blade would destroy lesser scabbards.

Although not recommended unless a lot of other handles are being shattered, this mould process can also be used for a one-piece plastic handle. As many plastics have a low friction surface, cross hatching should be applied to reduce slipping. Alternatively, sand can be integrated in the surface with a light flame.
If a moulded HDPE handle is removed prior to fitting a different handle material, the metal must be scrupulously clean before using any epoxy.
Do not mould a handle purely from epoxy resin which can crack, unless a high content of fibrous filler is included. This can be many turns of cotton or other cloth, possibly covered in printed paper as the last layer, containing survival information before applying the last layer of clear epoxy. Do not use fibreglass or aramid in a handle because they are skin irritants. A wood handle is lighter and has a superb finish.

I now prefer epoxy-aramid scabbards. Mine have dismond sharpener monded intot he surface and have climbing tape security cords and a lanyard.

Scabbard trimming.
A spring clip, leather, nylon or other retainer can now be included for security. Choose the fitting for the environment, although riveted snap fasteners, hook and loop, elastic and other methods are almost universal. Be careful in icy conditions, where some fasteners are more prone to failure or icing up.
Test by dousing in water then leaving in the freezer compartment overnight. - Many securing methods will fail here. You may need to have to securing methods for harsh environments. I also include lanyard.

The scabbard can be further refined. In most climes a small drain hole is common. Some diamond impregnated metal cutting strips are made with holes, which can be epoxied directly onto a rigid scabbard, or heated and pushed permanently into a HDPE scabbard. Preferable to roughen the reverse side of the sharpener before fitting, as a chrome finish is not ideal for adhesion. Always position a fixed sharpener on the scabbard such that it can be used to sharpen the whole blade.

Because not all survival is in virgin wilderness, various extras can be considered, including wire cutters, files, saws and divers other options. Where a secondary item such as an oil stone or a gardeners saw blade is included, then various arrangements can be applied for this to become part of the housing.
For leather, then simple stitching before sewing the main scabbard makes a simple and effective extra scabbard container for a saw blade. For composite designs, a simple additional moulded layer suffices. For one piece moulding, a dummy item, or the item covered in masking tape can be laid beside the knife mould, separated by a solid strip of HDPE. This will melt at the edges as the mould is poured to give a separate compartment. If still weak, then a soldering iron tip can be used to ensure complete diffusing of the pouch material into the scabbard material.

When done with a little care, all scabbards should allow the blade to have enough friction to prevent it sliding out on its own accord, but still allow it to be drawn single handed.
A good knife should be all that's needed for survival, but extras can be added if required. Never be tempted to include a compass because heavy blows can demagnetise or upset accuracy and only a stainless steel blade is non magnetic.

If the very basic blade is to be included as part of a compact survival kit, a minimalist scabbard is recommended. Ensure the blade is well protected from rust. A small sharpening tool and some cord can be fitted inside the handle slot.
The author is developing advanced, light wight, strong scabbards for the latest generation of JP survival knives.

For those who wish to make a study of the modern scabbard, the British Army SA80 bayonet scabbard is a good example, with much to recommend it as a good general purpose design. Few, if any other production scabbards are this good, which contains an integral sharpening stone, wood saw and wire cutters.

Belt.
The basic belt is normally a piece of leather with a standard buckle which is good enough for most uses. Other belts are made using plastic snap buckles which are easy to use, but can break. If such a buckle is used, always ensure a spare item is included on the belt as a backup, or include an emergency alternative buckle.

Every commercial belt I have seen has been a lost opportunity to make a truly useful survival item. A belt must always be part of a survival kit.
(Again, take note of the SA80 rifle sling, as it allows the bullpup rifle to be carried normally, held gunslinger style, and also across the chest, ready for instant use.)

At the minimalist level, a belt may simply be a piece of parracord to sling the knife around your shoulder, to a full piece of kit, containing a wire saw and made from many strands which can be deconstructed.
Belts can vary from thin pieces of nylon webbing to full leather straps or cotton webbing. Heavy forms of belts may be considered, but must conform to the body without chafing. Lighter webbing can cut into the waist.
For a wide, lightweight belt with a strong, easy fit buckle, then use car seat belt material and the excellent Bergbuckle made by Berghaus for the waist straps of it's 1980's rucksacks.
For a purely survival knife belt, the belt can be made by a single long folded length of parracord. Parracord is a small diameter kermantle type of cord, where the inner strands which take the load are loosely bundled inside a woven outer sheath.
Laying out the parracord requires a long table with a plastic cover, so the cord can be lightly glued together with contact adhesive for ease of manufacture. This is then stitched together for strength, in the same manner as some army webbing. This belt is then capable of being deconstructed to give a single, long length of parracord for use in an emergency. As this type of belt is harder to adjust or thread through standard buckles, a snap type of fastener may be preferred. As a better alternative, a loosely woven climbing tape or strap as used for suitcases can be used, as this allows strands to be teased out without removing too much of its strength. If multi coloured, then it can be deconstructed for different purposes, perhaps for fishing line, tying lures, sewing, shelter and for way marking.

Scabbards need not be mounted on belts, some can be clipped to rucksack straps, or stuffed in the top or sides of rucksacks or down the side of an ammo pouch. But whatever design is used, always ensure the survival kit remains with the user, not with the users equipment.

Quick grab.
As the above knife design is often not a pocket item, then it should be able to be grabbed every time. It must be ready in emergency so should be kept close to the person at all times. Therefore the alternative to the belt is the quick grab kit, where it is a clip-on package, easily attached to a belt, or as a piece of hand luggage or carried as a shoulder sling. It is not always possible to carry a belt kit when carrying a rucksack, as the base of the rucksack may conflict with the kit. Therefore it can be designed to be carried in the front of the user like a bum-bag used in tourist mode, or perhaps re-positioning the fastener or allowing the belt to slide through the kit or be slung across the chest or under the arm.

Done properly in accordance with personal preference, the survival kit should always be easily grabbed and carried, whether the user is off for a full expedition with large rucksack, into the woods with a roll of toilet paper, or going for a swim in a jungle river. Remember that this tool may need to be used in snow, heavy rain or muddy slime, while disoriented, weak and having to use the other hand. Practice makes perfect, so learning to use the knife with the other hand while in a simulated survival situation is important. So always make sure it is easily to hand.

After a first attempt, many ways of improving the knife will be found, possibly in design or manufacturing skills. If a first attempt is not perfect, it should be used as a garden saw, digger and chopping tool for long term testing, or as part of a spare survival kit in the van or boat.

Testing.
Once finished, a good scabbard can now be tested. Strength and security is tested simply by throwing it with it's scabbard, hard against a wall and onto rocks many times to see if the knife falls out.
Test general wear resistance and security by fitting the knife in the scabbard on the belt, then drag it via the belt along the ground on a cord, preferably up a stream and across rocky ground. A mile on mountain paths should suffice. I recopmend you test both your comercial items and your own design of knife on this test at the same time. Use a wire safety cord using a push bike brake cable so they are not lost if the lanyard fails or an inferior scabbard falls apart.

Then the knife can be tested by digging a hole in hard earth then sawing and chopping through a broom handle. Then to the larder to dress a peice of meat or a chicken. If to be used in cold conditions, spray with water mist, then leave the knife in it's scabbard in the freezer compartment overnight, then test. This will highlight the need to apply a little cloth to any bare metal handle as a heat barrier to prevent the hand freezing on the cold steel and to check if the knife is frozen into the scabbard.

Finally check it very carefully, take good care of it and use it only for the right purpose, of survival.
If it's tool, you're no fool.
If it's a toy, you're just a boy.

It is a tool, not a toy.

Walk quietly and gently through life.
Leave the planet a little better than you found it.

Best wishes,
J.Partridge. B.Ed. B.Sc.
Gizzajob.

Email jhpart@btinternet.com

A recent knife modification.

The above knives were built years ago and remain perfect.
I have not modified them much after many years of testing and no longer build many knives.

Recently a friend dropped by and said 'what can you do with this?" - It was a standard issue Nato pattern British survival knife. If the public can still buy such equipment from army surplus, but if so, it's a damn good starting point.
The knife is not at all like some of the tacky comercial crap. This nato knife is unexciting as a good survival knife should be: honest, solid and reliable.
I would far prefer this humble and unpretentious knife to ALL the fancy American and Asian knives to be found on the internet which purport to be survival knives. The manufacturers of most fancy, crap knives have no clue, other than to take your money for silly boys toys.

The standard handle is deliberately oversize, simply to allow the user to shape it down to a more comfortable size and shape. This is common with military equipment, where each person normally fine tunes their equipment. The standard knife has nice chunk of plastic for a handle to shape to fit, which can be shaped without splitting or breaking. In Belize or hotter climes, it will not need gloves, but if in Norway or similar, then shaping the handle to be more comfortable in gloves is also a good move.
If keeping the original scabbard. I'd also add some petroleum jelly in cold weather and or candle wax in hot climes to the dot fastener and inside the leather scabbard.

To show what can be done, this knife is given a full rebuild.
The knife will be used as an example of my preferred survival kit, to become the main part of this kit, therefore modified to get the most from its potential.
First, the knife will have a different purpose rather than the general purpose knife. As a pure survival knife, it will become part of a minimalist survival kit. It will become an emergency item, but capable of daily use. In this design the knife will be part of a first use survival kit and this means compactness.

The first step is to remove the handle which is unnecessary weight and also allows access to loose yet more weight without compromising the design, while also allowing further improvement of the design. The handle area can be reduced, but the outside works quite well for my hand, so the metal will not be reduced much on the outside and merely rounded to make a comfy grip, should there be no handle in the field of use.

Stage One : Mr Knifey goes on a diet.

The basic knife has excess weight. Survival equipment need not be heavier than necessary and this knife can loose some. Not only is lighter better, but if the lost weight is from the correct places, it allows room to hide bits and pieces which is yer classic survival mentality.

The rivets holding the sides of the handle were drilled out and the welds holding the finger guard sawn until it too could be slid off. The handle area was then drilled with holes until a hollow handle could be created. Alternatively, buy a cheapo angle grinder with a grinding and a cutting disc for metal. Make a couple of slots a little more than a quarter of an inch from the outside of the handle, then gradually remove the centre. Because this blade is properly hardened, the metal was often cooled in water during the process so that it did not need rehardening. This was then filed to a strong shape and smoothed. The upper and lower faces then lightly rounded and smoothed.

Take your time and ALWAYS wear goggles, breathing mask and ear defenders. Secure the blade firmly in a solid engineers vice. If no vice, then it's also possible to nail the blade to a large plank to allow this heavy grinding to be done.
Attacked by grinder from both sides, the hole is dressed to be nicely shaped, without reducing the thickness nor strength of the handle. The handle needs only be three times stronger than you. If you think you are going to be levering on the knife with a scaffold bar, then make the handle sides a bit thicker.

The eyelet hole for the lanyard was opened out, chamfered and smoothed to prevent abrasion of cordage.

The finger guard was then welded up to make a longer guard and then filed to a good shape.

Stage two: Mr Knifey gets more cutting edges.

The sawback was now initially made. This involved making almost vertical saw cuts to set the distance between each tooth, followed by the undercut saw cuts. This is best done with a knife edged file, but a hacksaw will also do, if you take your time. The cutting edge was not taken to a fine sharp edge at this stage.

Stage Three: Mr Knifey gets smart.

I would like to have kept the black finish, but the next weight reduction process involves hollow grinding the flanks of the main blade to reduce weight and reduce sticking in wood. For this, I marked the extents of grinding I wanted the hollow grind to be, and then used an angle grinder to tease the flanks concave until suitably ground. This is not so easy as it seems and involves laying the grinder disc at an angle to show the depth of hollow, then changing the angle of attack of the disc to indicate the grinding makes to help ensure you are grinding evenly along the flanks.
Finally, the cutting edge was given a slight hollow grind from about 2mm from the cutting edge to the flank edge of the chamfer.
At no time was the metal, and particularly the cutting edge, allowed to get hot.
The blade was checked for weight and balance and overall feel in use, then modified until it felt good.

The area in front of the saw blade was chamfered to allow a shaper point to the blade and to help digging and spearing.
The saw blade is then finished into a cutting edge.
The cutting edge was then dressed with a fine oil stone to give a strong cutting edge on the forward cutting edges for chopping and hacking, with a much finer, sharper cutting edge on the rear, for whittling.

The point and cutting edges are purely personal, some preferring a sharp cutting edge for skinning animals and general butchery, others preferring a more robust edge for chopping down trees, digging and general use. The finest edges of the blade are usually closer to the handle for more delicate work, and the more robust cutting edges where you would chop down trees, and on the tip. For butchery then a sharper edge either side of the point is often used.

The whole blade was then linished with a fine disc on the angle grinder, polished then cleaned.
The saw blade area is then finished by draw filling with a flat file over the tips of the teeth to make a flat line which reaches across the whole width of the blade. A piece of fine wet and dry wrapped over a flat block of wood will also do. Once the cutting edges are levelled, then the undercuts can be dressed down to almost touch the cutting edges.

The blade is sharp, shiny and prone to rust. This is not stainless, so a layer of hard candle wax is rubbed over the blade and then gently heated so it flows fully and cleanly over the whole knife. This would protect it from rust and also allow it to slide easier in wood when cutting. If used in icy water, the wax would help release the blade from the scabbard if frozen. The wax could be scraped and melted into paper as fuel or a small candle or to help a difficult fire. For wet, especially sea use, the wax may seem a bad idea, but surfers use the same materials to prevent slipping in extremely wet conditions.

The best alternative is to epoxy the handle, then wax only the blade. Clean then coat the handle area in epoxy resin with a little sand to make a non slip area. For most uses, yellow enamel paint with sand will be easier to see if lost. Although the handle will be covered in parracord later, this remains a good idea, as the parracord may later be needed elsewhere for many emergency uses.

As this knife will not be used for years and then perhaps in a rubber boat, or in the ice, then the cutting edges and saw blade must be protected with a couple of layers of masking tape to keep them sharp, clean and prevent it cutting the owner or any rubber survival raft.

Stage four. Mr Knifey gets clever:

Shelter, food and water:
Into the hole in the handle is placed water purifying tablets, two different sized fishing hooks, one large, one medium needle, a strong thread, a small kiddies party self re-igniting candle, some lifeboat matches and a thin piece of strike. The needles are magnetised as emergency compasses, they were also waxed, so they would float in water, to more easily rotate so the points would indicate north. A small piece of flint and magnesium was also added, cut down to make a tight fit inside the handle. This was then all held in place and padded with cotton wool as tinder and covered rather pregnantly with waterproof masking tape. The edge of the tape is folded back on itself and marked with a red arrow with a permanent felt tip marker. I find that vinyl tape tends to deteriorate too easily and looses adhesion in hot climes. Masking tape is not so strong, but remains in place. If you can use adhesive alloy foil as used for repairing roofing and guttering, then this is the best choice and polished as a heliograph.

The handle contains items I may need later, but not immediately, so are quite happily placed inside the handle. The handle was then built up with a few turns of waterproof tape to protect the contents should the parracord handle be needed, or if used in water. The masking tape also acts as a handle in frozen areas should the parracord handle be needed elsewhere. Even if the rest of the kit is lost, the knife still remains a self contained kit of elementary opportunities.

The cutting edge of the saw back is then protected with a couple of layers of masking tape, as it is not often used, and as a little protection will help the user in emergency, as masking tape will not prevent the saw being used. The tape also prevents unnecessary damage in a life raft. This will fall off at the first attempt at sawing, but otherwise helps protect both the blade and user.
The blade is sharpened, then the blade is covered in candle wax and lightly heated over a warm fire or with a cigarette lighter to seal the whole item from the elements, should it be needed in a maritime environment. Then given a couple of layers of masking tape to protect it until needed.

Now the handle is built up with parracord.
Use bright orange parracord, although nylon can be dyed using commercial fabric dyes. For combat, a green parracord is probably better. The blade could also be given a black colour from a permanent marker felt tip pen for those with more dubious purposes.
The parracord is whipped around the handle to build up the handle, but allow a length at each end to protrude. The hilt end of the parracord becomes a snug fitting wrist strap.
The shorter other end allows easy unravelling of the parracord for use in emergency. It is short enough not to be caught unintentionally and also in this version, used to restrain the knife in the scabbard.

To whip the parracord, simply lay a U loop along the handle, then whip from the loose end, up to the bend in the loop. The loose whipped end is then put into the loop and pulled back inside the handle. Knot both ends to prevent it being pulled out unintentionally.

Minimalist scabbard.
The scabbard of this project has to be minimal, but strong. I prefer HDPE, high density polyethylene, as used for plastic engine oil containers, and also used in prosthetic hip joint replacements. The plastic is rot proof but adequately strong and does not cause the blade to become stuck if iced up. If a sheet steel scabbard was to be used, then rust and ice are real problems. HDPE is used to make a simple sheath, easily cut to fold over the blade and the finger guard. This is for survival only and there to protect the user from the blade, not become a belt scabbard.
If a belt scabbard is needed, then use a longer piece of plastic, but do not trust it in the field without aramid reinforcements. The leather original is better, but takes up room.

The HDPE sheet is folded over the blade and heated gently to bend around the saw blade, the free ends are trimmed and melted together to make the basic sheath using a flame and hot blade or soldering iron. I like to squash and slightly crimp the edges. This is then covered in a layer of strong sewing cord and then a layer of vinyl tape for neatness.
A thin metal part of a diamond sharpening tool is included in the wrap of tape. This is removed form the plastic backing piece and makes a superb sharpening tool with almost no weight and total reliability.
A hole is added above the finger guard for the end of the parracord to hold the guard securely over the blade when not in use.

This is the basic, decent sized survival knife.
In this state, this knife is about as good as it can get with minimal space and weight.
The scabbard is as minimal as possible. The most minimal scabbard would be a length of split plastic pipe along the cutting edges and taped in place, but would not allow instant use of the blade.

I have not included a full scabbard, as this is a survival knife and designed to be minimalist. If you start adding any extras, then it may become too big and not be carried everywhere it may be needed.
The primary use is to be there when needed !

The knife must be able to remain in pristine condition for years, be ready for use, but must survive salt water, ice and heat and general abuse.

That's the initial, knife part of the survival kit done.

A knife cannot help you see in the dark, nor bandage a wound, nor can it give instant shelter from the sun, wind or rain.
To add to this project is the need for shelter, water, emergency rescue and emergency first aid. These need not be added, but a knife is not the solution to all problems, especially in the sea or when bleeding.

Emergency first aid preferably means a full wound pad as used in combat, but is too bulky for this project. Civvies do not have access to this, but can make a more compact version using two sterile surgical melamine would pad packages, wrapped around a small white open wound bandage for securing the pad to the wound.
An absorbent layer should also be added, but this takes up bulk and can be replaced by sphagnum moss, or a clean hanky or other options. I include three commonly available sealed surgical alcohol wipes, a couple of tape sutures or a good length of micopore tape to close wounds, and a couple of safety pins secured at the ends of the bandage. Also included is a surgical blade in a sealed foil wrapper to maintain sterility, and a couple of strong, standard cloth plasters. This core items are then wrapped in alloy cooking foil for protection, and to make an impromptu bowl to put the items when cleaning the wound, or should an optional water purifying tablet be used to help clean out a wound with water, and also to cover and protect the wound if needed. This is all wrapped in fine plastic film to protect the kit from water. The wrapping can also be used should the wound need protection from the elements, such as in the sea or swamp.

In practice, where the terrain is dirty or wet, the wound pad should ideally be unwrapped then held by the mouth, free of the dirty ground, while the sterile cleaning cloths and the sutures are used first, and without the pad itself falling on the ground. So place the cleaning pads on the outer side of the packaging, before the rest is unfolded. Then the pad can be applied as a dressing. If in the rain, the plastic cover can be used to help protect the pad. By making the package open out to present the items in a retained, but easily used manner, then the chances of lost or dirty items are greatly minimised, especially as there is likely to be a less than clean environment.

The emergency illumination component involves a torch (flashlight) just large enough to signal and seek out the immediate paths. The latest white LEDs are superb and compact. Even the disposable type are highly recommended, and phenomenally small, so two are easily included. One for immediate access and another in the main pack for later.
If military, then one of the torches can be a small red LED for night evasion which is less easily seen.
The primary use torch has an elastic strap which allows it to be positioned on the head and a small switch allows it to remain on while escaping or swimming in the dark. If this is not possible, then a neck cord is needed.
Where the torch has a push button or push sides, then it must be protected from working with a piece of steel which can be easily ripped off in emergency. If a cylindrical type of body with three small button batteries, then a piece of card or an old felt tip pen body can protect the button, again, the protection can be ripped off for use - or if rotated, can keep the button pushed down.
In the example, the primary torch fits neatly into the gap between the end of the parracord whipping and the edge of the handle, ready to be pulled out. I have carefully taped it in place with a pull tab on the tape so it can be removed easily with a hard pull. The torch can be held in the mouth if needing to escape on all fours or with the included elastic head band made from a thin piece of knicker elastic. This also allows it to be carried around the neck when not in use.
If the torch can be kept on, then the knicker elastic also allows the torch to be mounted on the head if needing to swim or crawl away. The elastic head band can also allow a bin bag to be retained as a head cover in wind, and also allows a sun shield for the eyes to be kept easily in position and can also be used to retain a head wound bandage.
To protect the torch from water contamination, the torch is protected with a squirt of silicone maintenance spray, and the batteries and spare batteries likewise.

The shelter component of such a compact kit is simply a couple of carefully folded strong bin liners.
Bin bag technology is not perfect, but very compact. When slit appropriately, they can be a poncho for wet climates. They can be used as bags for sleeping in cold climates, with moss or straw between the for insulation. In hot climates, they can be shelter, or used to carry extra water, or if very desperate, for a solar still. Bin bags will also allow clothes to be stored inside to make a float aid for the sea.
Look out for the very large bin bags which are usually on a roll, and carefully fold these to fit neatly with the rest of the kit. If you have the open end of the bag on the outside of the folded bag, then the water carrying area will be further protected.
Where possible choose clear plastic bags, as these can also be made into very effective solar stills, whereas a black plastic bag is far less effective as a solar still. See making your own solar stills on this same website.

Making proper shelters from wood, bamboo, foilage or snow will need to be made with the main blade, as a poly bag is a minimal, first use item.

One of the bin bags also allow clothes to be stuffed inside and sealed to act as buoyancy for sea survival, while the other will allow the user to crawl inside and act to slightly reduce cooling water flow when in cold seas. The two smaller water bags can be filled with drinking water at the same time, and a mirror is included plus the whistle for sea survival.

Stuffing dry grass between two poly bags makes an emergency sleeping bag for cold climates.

Although a sew kit is held inside the handle, the external sew kit has heavy thread and four needles with reasonably large eyes.
Inside the pack is also a button compass and small whistle on a neck cord made from strong thread with the small button compass on a separate cord.

The water needs is accomplished simply with a couple of self sealing plastic water bags. The best I ever found were from an 85 pence packet of fudge sweets. They are a very neat design of folding base which allows them to stand up freely. They retain water without the seals leaking, even when held upside down. About a pint and a half each. Water purifying tablets are inside the knife handle and the external survival pack.
Such self sealing bags are getting very popular; I have seen them as marinades and cheese packaging.

The first aid and the shelter/water packs are then folded up as compactly as possible and taped to the knife. The first aid kit taped to the handle, as this is likely to be most important. The shelter and water pack is taped to the scabbard, which can wait until shelter is needed later on. Therefore the first aid will be removed before the knife, leaving the rest ready for use if so needed. The knife can be used with the first aid kit attached, but is rather bulky.

When taping all this together, the free ends of the tape are given a little fold, to help them be removed easily and are also highlighted with a red permanent marker. The marker is also used to write the contents on the tape.

The overall package is just under a foot long, two inches wide and an inch and a half thick.
It's total weight is 1-1/4 lbs (600 grammes).

It can be covered in a protective, but quickly removed cloth sleeve and carried from a shoulder lanyard or belt cord. I use masking tape to retain the items as it is easily ripped off, then cover the whole unit in a nylon tube to protect the system. The thin (yellow or olive drab) nylon bag also doubles as a water container in conjunction with a poly bag.

It's most important attribute is that it is easy to carry (for the purpose of never needing it) and not overly large or bulky. Even at this size it may be too large for many.
Anything larger would become a chore to carry around and thus may not be available when needed.
The overall package is still too large for some, but contains a full and highly adaptive survival kit. It can be easily split-up and carried on the person in three primary use components.

In use, the knife can be retained in the hand, or safely in a pocket with the scabbard and the other items used as and when needed.

In escape, the torch (flashlight) is easily accessible, with the knife to elicit an escape within seconds.
In the sea, the various plastic bags come into their own, for buoyancy, warmth and drinking water.
In desert, the alloy foil can make head and eye shades and a heliograph. The plastic bags giving shelter and to carry water. The knife becomes a digging implement.
In the jungle or forest, the knife comes into its own. The plastic for very wet weather night shelter and to carry water or foods or dry tinder if needed.
To make it more compact, the knife could be smaller and the whole wrapped as a single unit, but this compromises the items for both use and easy access and effectiveness in emergency.

The various options are covered for most cases, although will not be perfectly adaptable for all situations.

Carrying it.
The final pack can be carried across the chest, in the small of the back or slung under the arm. I insist my kits can be carried in all three, dependant upon the situation.
To make carrying easy, I prefer a small size nylon climbing tape, preferably the 'soft', open weave nylon which can be easily but partially deconstructed for extra cordage for fishing line, traps and tying shelter, but without destroying the whole tape.
For those who prefer it, a nylon clip buckle with length adjustment makes it a good waist item, or for slinging across the chest. As I do not trust nylon clips, I recommend including a metal buckle on the tape should the plastic item fail. Details again.

Now you have built it, take it out to the jungle, forests or on Dartmoor or wherever, then practice various scenarios.
Scenario. 1. You have fallen off the back of a truck and broken your leg, with a big gash, no one has noticed you missing. Cut a splint, pretend to repair the gash in the leg, then walk five miles.
Scenario. 2. You have just escaped and seeking evasion. Cover your tracks and find somewhere far away, quiet and lie low in the cold and wet, then move on for a good rest, then trek in the dark for four hours.
Scenario. 3. Find your way out without knowing where you are. Expect a three day trek, (a first night sleep is easy, but the second demands stamina) which will need water, a rabbit or two for food and traps and shelter. Scenario three is best done straight after scenario two, so you get cold and hungry, sleepless to start off with the right mental state. (Note: Dartmoor sheep and cattle belong to farmers and not acceptable during training. Under New Labour, it is now illegal to trap rabbits on Dartmoor !! Mixamatosis is consodered not injurous to humans.)
Scenario 4. Check the tides of somewhere safe, with the knowledge of local sailors and by using a piece of wood. With some friends, take no more than five minutes to prepare the kit for immersion, - then jump off the side of a dock or pier or boat. Then spend a few hours in the water using minimal effort, while making steady headway through the water, as if trying to reach shore. ALWAYS get to know the tides and so remain in a safe place. Follow by swimming to shore on the rocky areas at high tide, without loosing your kit. If you decide to replace emergency drinking water with no more than two cans of beer to pass the time, then that's quite acceptable, as this can get very boring. Alcohol is not recommended in real survival situations. Once ashore, catch some fish and have a barbecue, dry out, then make a camp for the night, preferably clear of the sand bugs.

If it's tool, you're no fool.
If it's a toy, you're just a boy.

Walk quietly and gently through life.
Leave the planet a little better than you found it.

Hope this has been of use.

JP:)

Email jhpart@btinternet.com

Companion monographs on my website you may find interesting include:
A Builders Guide to Motorcycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Composite HPV Cycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Composite Motorcycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Trike Design.
A Builders Guide to Motorcycle and Trike Wiring.
A Builders Guide to Campervan Design.
A Builders Guide to Survival Knife Design.
A Builders Guide to Survival Kit Design.
A Builders Guide to Basic Wind Tunnel Design.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics. Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced.

Also by the author on this website.
How to walk. A beginners guide to the outdoors.
Easy life.
Teach yourself to swim.
Translations for walkers. English, French, Italian, German.
A Beginners Guide to Building Your Own Computer.
Stonehenge and spanners.
Make your own glasses. (spectacles.)
An Assessment of Motorcycle Design.
Domestic repair and maintenance.

Recommended reading.
SAS Survival Manual. (ISBN.0-00-217185-6.) The definitive survival book.
SAS Survival Guide. (ISBN.0-00-470167-4.) Pocket edition of above.
Roughing it Easy. (ISBN: 0-96-212573-3) Dian Thomas.
The Happy Traveller by Frank Tatchell, M.A. 1923. - The definitive travellers book. (Available on my website).

Three of the authors knives.

Standard.
This is standard knife, capable of being used with or without wooden handle. Without a handle, a lighter form of this design forms the core of the survival kit mentioned in the companion monograph.

Compact.

This is a smaller version for a more compact version in the standard survival kit. It has less weight and makes use as an axe less easy. It is the most popular knife.

Folding large.
This is on the same scale as the standard knife, but folds. It is not included as part of the standard survival kit, but a two part survival kit using this knife is available. The blade pivots on a Honda gudgeon pin and is held in place with a tapered slide lock which cannot shear, and is self adjusting to prevent a sloppy blade. The flush fitting end catch must be pulled out to retract the blade. Can be stripped and repaired without special tools.

Under development is a small folding parang / machetee, not unlike that used in the game 'Far Cry', but slightly smaller. This is based on the folding MK3, but with a longer blade and a third folding saw/blade cover in the handle to protect the main blade when carried.

If requested, further texts on designing and making cooking equipment, tents, shelters, snowholes and many other aspects can be rewritten for the web if requested.
Knives and Survival kits made to order.

The author is one of the many thousands of unemployed British science graduates.
Gizzajob.
J.Partridge. B.Ed. (Design/Technology), B.Sc. (Design, Physics, Innovation, CAD etc.) Plus many engineering, mountaineering and other qualifications.

Always try to improve society rather than just take from it. Until then, lawyer stuff. All material herein is subject to copyright, patent and other intellectual property rights. Modification of this material whole or in part is prohibited without the written permission of the author. Contents subject to change without notice. Errors and omissions excepted. Contents for illustrative purposes only. All rights reserved. No responsibility is accepted for any damage or any injury caused by this information. No-one should try building equipment without reasonable abilities and know that injuries can ensue from the materials, tools and from testing and use.
This is a re-write of a 1993 article.
Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 1993. 2002. 2003.