JP7 DIY make your own glasses spectacles. Always try to improve society rather than just take from it. Until then, the unavoidable lawyer stuff. Contents for illustrative purposes only. All material herein is subject to copyright, patent and other intellectual property rights. Copying, duplication or transmission of this material whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the author. Contents subject to change without notice. Errors and omissions excepted. All rights reserved. No responsibility is accepted for any damage or any injury caused by this information. No-one should try building anything without reasonable abilities and know that injuries can ensue from the materials, tools and from testing.
Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 2003.

Being long term unemployed, English motorcycle mechanic, draughtsman, plant engineer, marine engineer, technology teacher and science graduate, the author would like a job. This monograph is placed on the web as a public service, while begging as a B.Ed and B.Sc. Please consider this monograph a partial C.V.

Make your own glasses. (spectacles).

The first thing to know is that making or prescribing your own prescription lenses is not mentioned here. But you may already have a pair of prescription lenses, but a bad frame and need to do something better.
Or you may be searching second hand shops for old glasses and choose a pair of separate glasses for each eye, then make your own frames.
Prescription lenses are best for the simple reason that you should always have this done by a specialist. In the worst case, at least buy some second hand plastic lenses which feel comfortable for general use, buying a couple of pairs so the different left and right lenses are correct for each eye.

Please note that most people have the same problem in both eyes, usually long or short sighted, but sometimes with a lazy left or a lazy right eye. So if you are going though second hand glasses in charity shops or car boot sales or whatever, then ALWAYS try the glasses upside down as the left and right eyes may be perfect if for the other eyes.
You will need plastic lenses. To check if the lenses are plastic, simply compare the warmth against other lenses and the glass ones will sink your heat away faster and thus feel cooler, the distinctly warmer lenses are plastic.

This web page assumes you already have an old pair of prescription lenses with PLASTIC lenses.
Plastic is now common practice for many good reasons. It is just as good as glass, is lighter, so does not dig into the nose so heavily and does not smash easily, reducing potential eye damage.

The next step is a set of frames.
The reason why this page is written is simply because the author now owns a pair of glasses whose nearest equivalent are priced in the local high street shop at 180 pounds sterling. This is a ridiculous price. More so, as the actual cost to the author is 199 pence. Yes, less than two Pounds Sterling. One percent !
And mine are far nicer to wear.

With the advent of the plastic lens, frames are now redundant. Many seaside shops sell cheap sunglasses with basic frames screwed to simple coloured plain lenses.
Do not deride the low cost, for some of these are every bit as good as frames costing a hundred times as much. Have a good look; in many cases the 99 pence frames are superior to 99 pound frames.

The first hinge that took my attention is the superb design of one type of 99 pence (50c) sunglasses. These had superb design details, the hinge was self aligning and lightly sprung, the hinge could NEVER wear appreciably and this superb hinge also had no screws. It may be cheap, but was priceless from the viewpoint of an engineer, designer and long time spectacle wearer.
Whoever designed these deserves a design award.
They were bought for just 199 pence, and later in the summer season they were found for just 99 pence.

Plastic prescription lenses can be removed from a pair of old spectacles and likewise the tinted lenses were removed from the sunglasses.

The old lenses in the original frame are usually held in by a tight fit or small screws.
The fixed lenses are pushed out of the plastic frames and it just takes strong fingers and a thumb to push them out. Apply pressure on the concave (hollow) side of the lens, near one side, so the lens is not encouraged to break in half, and so it tends to curve smaller around the rim and this helps it come out without damage.
I usually put my thumb in the concave side and near the arm hinge, with my fingers across the outer face of the nose bridge, and the other hand holding the side arm hinge area, then the lens simply bows a little and pops out as I push with my thumb. I have yet to break a lens, glass or plastic, although I have only done a dozen or so. I have also replaced lenses after dropping them, in a similar manner.
If in doubt, sumply cut the plstic frames to remove the lenses.
If in doubt, use your oldest pair for practice, then practice making the lenses to fit the new frames. If you hate your old rims or they are broken beyond repair, then simply cut them and allow the lenses to be extracted easily.

Alignment lines.
Draw a grease or lipstick line across the widest horizontal part of the lenses to mark the positions of the inner and outer frame mounting points for the nose pieces, and the hinges with their arms. This is the reference line to get perfectly aligned lenses.
If the lenses are bifocal or graduated, then you MUST make a grease pencil line or lipstick line along the middle horizontal of the bifocals change, or in the middle of the graduated lens. For graduated lenses, these reference lines will usually be aligned according to the old frames.

Mounting the lenses to the nose bridge.
The first step is mounting holes in the tinted lenses were measured and a small drill chosen to drill the appropriate size hole.
Always choose a very close match drill, the same size or just a smidgen larger than the mounting screws and wire frame. If you do not have a drill then see alternatives later.

Before working on the lenses, take note that the plastic is brittle and undue force can cause them to crack. With a little care, the lenses are perfectly safe and unless heavy handled with the drill, saw or grinder, the lenses will be easy to shape.

First, you need to make the inner lens mountings on the nose bridge piece.
If you have a wide or narrow nose, first gently bend the new nose piece to be perfect for you.

For these frames, an alignment slot was made with a small hacksaw, matching the slot on the original sunglasses lens to neatly fit on the central wire frame. This slot allowed the frame to be positioned so the screw hole can be marked using the wire as a guide for the drill.
I used the blade from a junior hacksaw and did this very slowly.
When the nose piece was aligned on the lens, a drill was used to mark the lens accurately. Remove the nose frame and drill the hole very carefully. Fit the first screw and lens to the central frame to check the fit.

To get a perfect alignment on both the lenses about the nose area, remove the central frame and stick both the lenses back to back with blue tacky putty, as found in many offices. When aligned symmetrically, saw the slit using the first one as a guide, and drill the screw hole, then fit the screw loosely though both lenses to retain alignment.
The centre of the spectacles can now be assembled.

Head width.
Face a mirror and with a grease pencil or lipstick, find the line from the side of the head from the top of the ears to the lenses. Try no not let the lenses be narrower than this, so the arms will not rub unduly against the side of the head.
If needing maximum peripheral vision, such as motorcycling, driving, flying or security patrol, then the width may preferred to be slightly wider.
Alternatively, if needing narrow spectacles, perhaps working in confided spaces, or needing minimalist lenses for fashion reason the outer edges of the lenses can be narrowed slightly. Although unlikely, use a grinder to trim the outer sides if the lenses are particularly wide.
If you intend to use these in ice or snow, or under safety goggles, then you may wish to have the lenses angled back around the face. But always so this very carefully and never put pressure on the lenses, just the nose bridge wire. Always double check by wearing before final assessment.

You should normally not need to reduce the outer width of lenses, but occasionally it may be required.
If you don't have a grinder to reduce the outer width of the lenses, then you can use a small metal file, but place the lens against the side of a table, so the filing pressure will not crack the lens. I use a piece of blue tacky putty between table edge and lens to make life easier. If you don't have a file, then lie some rough wet and dry abrasive paper, or sand paper on the table, then gently run the lens up and down the abrasive paper until the lenses reach the desired outer width.

Do NOT trim the upper and lower edges of the lenses yet.

Place the side arms on the ears and adjust for the best fit, then mark the positions of the mounting drill holes on the lenses. This should be in line with the horizontal reference line.
If the bifocal change is too high or low and you shold now modify the nose pieces to lower or raise the bifocal line relative to your eyes.

Check both sides, then measure the distances for evenly spaced drill holes. Use the central mounting screws to draw a line across the lenses to help evenly position the outer holes and slots.
Repeat the earlier slot and drill procedure to mount the side arms as required by your frames.

The 'complete' pair of spectacles can now be assembled.

The four screws usually have small plastic washers to add a little compressed force on the lenses without damaging or causing cracking forces. Always fit the small washers between frames and lenses to reduce high stress points in the plastic lenses.
When fully assembled, wear the spectacles and adjust the nose supports as required, ensuring the lenses run parallel to the profile of the eyes, as if seen from above the head. Closing your eyes and placing your fingers in the side gaps will tell if the lenses are evenly spaced from the eyes.

Adjust the side arms and the nose supports if needed. -

NEVER put pressure on the lenses, ONLY adjust the metal parts, and do this very carefully with the minimum force and movement. It is for this reason that wire spectacle frames are so easy to adjust. If worried about applying unwanted force on the lenses, take the assembly apart and adjust. It may take a few more minutes, but is saves damaging the lenses.
Make sure both side arms are parallel, so the lenses sit perfectly aligned on the face. When seen in the mirror, both hinges should be at the same height on the face. Adjust as needed.

Long or short sighted.
When assembled, the spectacles will probably look far too big, especially in the vertical dimensions. (I always get my prescription lenses fitted into the largest frames I own, prior to removal to make my own glasses.)
While wearing the spectacles, use a mirror to draw temporary outlines, perhaps following the eyebrows for style, or draw lines for fashion, then test and modify the lines for best use.

Using a grease pencil or lipstick or whatever, draw lines to clear the nose profile and any other requirements for a superbly shaped pair of lenses.

Also draw a line from one hinge to the other which should pass evenly through the nose bridge assembly. This is the primary trimming line and all reduction should be evenly done from this line, but will depend upon whether you are long or short sighted.

Short sighted.
If short sighted, look down under the lenses to see the keyboard or to read a book, then up to look out of the window. You can now mark a bottom line on the lenses to give you the best view under the lenses for the keyboard, books and for general short range use without removing the glasses. Use a grease pencil or some lipstick to make the lower lines you need on the lens.

Long sighted.
If long sighted, you may wish to widen the nose supports slightly, so the glasses sit lower on the face. Then adjust the upper line so you can tip your head forward slightly to be able to see over the top. The upper line of the lenses can now be drawn while on the face.
If the glasses are to sit lower on the face, decide if you prefer them to slide further down the nose, which is often more uncomfortable, or to widen the nose supports, or to simply grind down the upper line of the lenses. Then adjust the curve of the arms around the ears to sit perfectly as required.

This is true made to measure, designer lens work. Now you can trim the tops and bottoms of the lenses. The plastic lenses can now be refined to suit the style and use.
No trimming should be done until the nose and ear booms are shaped perfectly, then the lenses can be trimmed, once they sit perfectly upon the face.
Use the grease pencil or lipstick lines, especially if short sighted and tend to read under the lenses.
Now, while wearing the glasses and using the mirror, draw the upper lines to match your eyebrow lines or whatever is fashionable or pleasing.

The picture shows the primary trimming to shape. It involves constantly placing on the face, checking in the mirror and general feel and use, then dressing the basic shape until it does the job perfectly.
In this example, I'm using a simple sanding disc and an electric drill. Note also the yellow grease pencil marks used for alignment with the screw fixings, so the lenses are dressed down to identical horizontal lines.

Refining the shape is an art form performed in small steps followed by checking by wearing as the shape takes form.
Unlike many expensive glasses, you will notice that your face is not the same as anyone else's, and as such there will be an optimum low an upper lines for the lenses.
I prefer to trim these upper and lower lines first, so I get perfect reading by looking under the lenses, as I am short sighted. Long sighted people will prefer the upper line to be lower.

Once the upper and lower lines are as you want them, then the edges and corners can be trimmed. As your face is different to others, then you may wish to use small smaller, or large radiuses corners, to match your physiognomy and general facial curves.

Gradually the lenses will be about right and then they are checked for symmetry by simply placing back to front on the face, then looking for any obvious irregularities. Alternatively simply look via two mirrors to get a symmetrical view which usually shows up any inconsistencies. Placing the spectacles on a flat surface and simply measuring the overall symmetrical accuracy will also show up any imperfections.
When trimmed, I still keep the grease pencil marks to make a final check that when looking straight ahead, so the pencil lines remain level.

Trimming is performed by constant return to the grinder, sandpaper, file or flap wheel. Wear a face mask to prevent inhaling the dust. Wear goggles to prevent a broken lens from damaging the eyes. A bench grinder will do, although I use an electric drill mounted in a bench vice by the screw-on handle. I may also use a flap-wheel in an electric drill instead of a bench grinder, as this reduces the lens plastic more slowly, allowing much easier trimming, without applying undue pressure on the lenses. A flap wheel is a metal spindle with many flaps of stiff abrasive cloth glued radially onto the spindle. They are quite common and available from most DIY and car repair shops.
A standard bench grinder as used for sharpening tools was used in a bike shop, when making a final fitting for a friend.

Minimalist engineering.
Not everyone will have a workshop, but may simply wish to do this in the kitchen table, then a cheap mini drill can be bought for under ten quid, but choose a mini flap wheel which can fit at the same time. A cheap junior hacksaw blade and a small watch makers screwdriver will complete the tools needed. Total cost should be under fifteen quid, including the frames.

For those with total budget collapse, then sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood, or a medium file will also do the job of trimming to shape just as well, but slower. A cheap, small watch makers style screwdriver for slotted screws of the right diameter with the screwdriver end shaped into a drill will also do for drilling the holes.
If you want to, then you could use a piece of piano wire of the right drill hole diameter, then use an oilstone to make a primitive drill cutting edge into the tip. Then make a crank in the middle of the wire and a button top for your palm, thus creating a drill.
Use some blue tack to hold the lens while drilling. Total cost should be under four pounds. Ideal for the likes of us millions of poor Brits.

Final refinement is done according to use.

REMEMBER: When adjusting the metal, ALWAYS hold the metal part nearest the lenses with pliers, then tease the frame into shape. NEVER put pressure on the lenses.

The profiles of the lenses can now be gradually trimmed on the grinder to suit personal style.

It is fascinating to consider that no-one wants to modify their expensive glasses, let alone take a grinder to them, but are quite happy to do so on a pair that cost little.
Guess which are usually the favourite pair.
Guess which spectacles are the real designer pair.
The home made cheap ones are the true designer glasses, because they have been designed around your requirements, not mass produced.
This level of attention and perfection cannot be bought.
Sticking a 'designer' label on anything never meant anything, other than as a rip-off exercise.

When gradually refining the profiles with any power tools, wear a face mask to prevent inhaling the dust and wear goggles to prevent any breaking plastic from damaging the eyes.
Take time to gradually reduce the outer profiles, as plastic cannot be replaced. Also ensure the grinder does not damage the frames, especially the nose pads. If in doubt, remove the soft nose pads first.

Nose pads.
When the shape is correct, clean the lenses and place on the face to check the final position of the spectacles. Start by adjusting the nose pads and adjust the angles of the lenses, which should be symmetrical and evenly placed from the eyes. Adjust the frame so the nose pads sit comfortably.

Most nose pads are simple soft plastic inserts, but if these are not suitable, they can be replaced with harder materials such as epoxy resin. When removed, the areas can often be built up with quick setting (five minute) epoxy resin, available from model shops. Add a first layer of resin to build up a distance off the nose. When the final layer of resin is added, cover your nose with a layer of food covering cling film and place the glasses in position for a perfect fit. Once set, the epoxy nose pads can then be trimmed to shape with a sharp knife. Perhaps you may wish to add a soft foam nose pad or layer of cotton or silk.
For the best results, place larger cotton pads on the nose, then while the epoxy is setting, the pads will make the perfect profile with your nose, which can then be trimmed afterwards.

Ear pieces.
Now adjust the bend of the arms so they fit neatly around the ears without slipping forward. If the arms dig into the side of the head, bend them slightly.
Remove the spectacles and place them on a flat surface. Look along the side of the spectacles, where the arms and lenses should be perfectly parallel. If not perfectly level, adjust the arms.

When adjusting the rear curve of the arms around the ears, they are often coated in hard plastic, so always make small adjustments so the plastic does not break. Make sure no sharp edges scratch the skin beside the ears.
If needing to replace the plastic, consider small bore heat shrink from electrical suppliers, or melting plastic such as nylon, as it will burn like a candle, allowing the plastic to be melted onto the metal, or use ski candles. Ski candles are sticks of nylon which, when lit, will drip the plastic were needed. Available in many colours. A warm flame will then allow the nylon to run smooth on the arms, usually with a larger tear drop tip. Another alternative is to simply build up the arms with many layers of hard nail varnish. This will give superb colour co-ordination for fashion victims.

Security cords.
If you always use a security cord, then this can be made from a wide selection of hanks of darning yarns crying out to be platted into very neat and colour co-ordinated cords.
For sliding cord on the arms, simply whip the ends of the cord or yarn around the arms using fine cord.
To whip the cord, place a long loop of the cord along the length to be whipped. Then neatly wind the whipping over the boom and the loop. When fully wound, the end of the cord can be pushed though the end loop and pulled inside the whipping, then the ends of the cord trimmed.

The edges of the lenses will have a rough surface, but is normally not noticed. If required, the edges can be polished with fine abrasive paper, but it is much easier to either scrape a sharp knife bade along the edges to reduce the abrasive look or to simply paint a little clear nail varnish along the edges for a good finish.
Colour co-ordinated nail varnish also makes the whole spectacles open to total fashion integration. Nails, glasses and neck cord, all totally co-ordinated.

The four screws usually have small plastic washers to add a little compressed force on the lenses without damaging or causing cracking forces. Always fit the small washers between frames and lenses. Then snug up the screws and nuts carefully. If the user finds the screws coming loose a little too often, then consider some machinery screw adhesive, or apply some glue on the threads before final assembly, or gently crimp the nuts slightly for a tight fit on the thread, or simply apply some clear hard nail varnish as an alternative machinery adhesive.

If the lens slots are a little too sloppy, a little epoxy resin or some clear hard nail varnish in the slots will help keep the frames and lenses in line.

Finally, grind back or file down most of any excessive protruding thread on the screws. Some high street shops have spectacles with ridiculous amounts of thread protruding towards the wearers face, which can cause possible damage. In one well known high-street shop the extended thread was 5mm, which is simply unacceptable for safety and even less acceptable for a pair of glasses costing 168 pounds. - (It makes you think just what are you buying for this money. The author believes Britain is most certainly a rip-off culture. The cost of glasses is a classic example of 'Rip-off Britain'.)

It is far better to make your own spectacles, for good safety, perfect style, superb fit and excellent cost effectiveness.

If happy with your new perfectly made to measure, 'designer' spectacles, invest in another set of sunglasses for the frames you want. Then simply choose the cheapest glasses with large plastic frames when its time for a new pair.
I choose basic NHS lenses and frames as the starting point, as I am unemployed and begging. The new spectacles are every bit as good as anyone else's, look like a couple of hundred pounds worth of designer frames, fit superbly, work perfectly, but merely cost a little time and 99 pence.

They are also the best spectacles I have ever owned.

Best wishes.
John Partridge. B.Ed. B.Sc.
Gizzajob.

End.

Always that many honest Brits are treated like shit by Blair. Without wishing to be racist; immigrants get far more help than me. So if you can give me a job using my B.Ed, B.Sc teaching technology or science or a lab technician, please do, although being British male and over fifty is the kiss of death to getting work and is getting worse.
Please use your vote to keep lawyers and assholes out of politics.
Please use your vote for a decent Britain.

I hope this monograph was of use. If no replies, it gets dumped.
Email jhpart@btinternet.com

If interested further, here's some other monographs by the same author. As you read them, please consider giving me a job please. My last boss told me I did thrice the work of the last draughtsman, and I gladly did this for minimum wages, yet the British managers still treat you like shit.

A Builders Guide to Building Your Own Computer
A Builders Guide to Domestic Repair and Maintenance.
An unofficial guide to Plymouth. Hoe and Barbican.

A Builders Guide to Motorcycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Composite HPV Cycle Design.
A Builders Guide to Composite Motorcycle Design.

A Builders Guide to Trike Design.
A Builders Guide to Camper Van Design.
A Builders Guide to Motorcycle and Trike Wiring.
A Builders Guide to Basic Wind Tunnel Design, building, calibration and use.

A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics Basics.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics Intermediate.
A Beginners Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics Advanced.

Stonehenge and spanners.
Simple alternative electronic ignition for motorcycles.
A Builders Guide to Survival Knife Design.
A Builders Guide to Survival Kit Design.
A Builders Guide to Build your own steam engine and boiler without a lathe.
A history of motorcycle design. A 1991 motorcycle assessment leading to the JP7.

How to walk. A beginners guide to the outdoors.
Teach yourself to swim.
Look after your teeth.

Easy life. Bikers touring guide.
Future dreams. Short story.
Aliens. Short story.

Begging.
Begging is the bottom line of this work. Being just one of the many long term unemployed English science graduates with a strong engineering background in nuclear, marine and other spheres, the author would like a job, please.
Most of the vast numbers of 'begging bowl innovators' have ideas, so please help. British venture capital is unfortunately an oxymoron, a joke comparable with our railways and education system.
The more feedback, the more likely the author will put pen to paper.
The more the funding, the faster this work can continue. The author would like a job. Please consider this monograph a CV.

Background info.
Funding is fundamental to making the JP programme work, hence the need for requests, to directly support research on a minimal budget. All profits directly support research and all honest donations welcome.
Look around you, it was innovators like Babbage and Ada Lovelace, then Tomy Flowers and Alan Turin for the computer. Edison with sound and light. From the cup holding your coffee, to the glass window, seat covers, paper, pen, they all needed ordinary people with a dream of inspiration, who created just about everything you now use.
If we all blindly follow those who think they know better, then, heaven forbid, we may even end up in a world where all cars begin to look alike, and the only options will be the exciting variations of cup holders or other such facile crap. If (when) this happens we will know we are dumbed down ready to become consumer sheep, fit only to graze in malls.

There is no point writing monographs like this if they cannot be used. Always use your vote, even if only to keep politicians and b(E)ureaucrats from making our lives constrained and boring against our will. Human nature must always ensure its creativity from a world dominated by (m)asses of corporate 'logo based life forms' and parasitic lawyers. Never vote for anyone who wants 'type approval', excessive paperwork or restrictions of our freedoms, rights and aspirations.

The price of freedom is eternal vigilance.
Know your rights, aspirations and abilities and always protect them.

If you found this monograph useful and build a pair of glasses, please Email, details below.

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Although these are called guides, the author advises the reader not to act upon this information because lawyers lie around every corner. Although everyone looses, at least the basic text remains available to all, without threat of prosecution by parasitic lawyers. (Increasing numbers of excellent websites are being shut down through greed of lawyers. As lawyers get richer, society gets poorer.)
Always try to improve society rather than just take from it. Until then, the unavoidable lawyer stuff. Contents for illustrative purposes only. All material herein is subject to copyright, patent and other intellectual property rights. Copying, duplication or transmission of this material whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the author. Contents subject to change without notice. Errors and omissions excepted. All rights reserved. No responsibility is accepted for any damage or any injury caused by this information. No-one should try building anything without reasonable abilities and know that injuries can ensue from the materials, tools and from testing.
Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 2003. 2006.