Classic Walks on Dartmoor.
Volume One.

Village (City) Stroll I.

Plymouth.- Barbican and Hoe.

DUE TO LACK OF WEB SPACE, THE PICTURE LINKS ARE NOT AVAILABLE.

Preamble:
This page is taken from my both website and classic Walks on Dartmoor CD. It is not a village stroll in the strictest sense. But the Barbican is part of Dartmoor's history - the end of the leats and where the granite went. This walk adds an extra stroll when visiting the nearest big city. Plymouth is gradually succumbing to the mess decreed by greedy developers. No Plymothian likes the mess the Barbican has become. In the remains of the Barbican, developers always kill heritage and each generation makes it a little worse, e.g. the appalling Dartmouth Glass centre and the overpriced ghost apartments surrounding the Barbican. Therefore I have written this to try to glean what little is left.

I hope you enjoy this virtual walk, and hope you visit the real thing, as its always better than seeing it on the web.
There has been an increase in impatience and lack of politeness in the last twenty years as local house prices rise, so I plead that you make every effort to help bring back some of the politeness which this area had been renown for centuries. It should not be just another tacky tourist trap during the day and a drunk pub crawl in the evening.
If you are one of the 'developers' ruining the Southwest, or a freemason, a councillor or MP supporting this crap, please piss off now. The Southwest appreciate people who appreciate the Southwest. We do not like second home owners who leave our villages desolate most of the year, to leave locals struggling for housing. Neither do we like 'developers' who rape our taxes, leaving us with yet more crap. Plymouth has a new Mall, immediately denounced as the ugliest building in the Southwest. It's badly designed, and so aesthetically appalling, the north end is now called Drakes Arse. The Mackay fiasco has left us with a far worse Royal Parade and cost 1.6 million pounds. No locals like this utter crap and the 'developers' seem to have gone in hiding, as do the highly suspect councillors who approved it.

2007: This page will soon be dropped as there is no feedback. A guide to crap Plymouth, Mackay and the redevelopment rape will replace it.

If as a tourist, you have time, then there is also an extra route around Plymouth.
Later versions of this page may include further walks around Plymouth if anyone should ask for them.

      Arriving by Bus or Coach.
      Arriving by Car. (With quick access to Barbican and free parking option.)
      For those arriving by Train.
      A proper guide to the Barbican and Hoe.
      A larger, circular route of Plymouth by car or cycle.

The Barbican and Hoe for those who arrive by Bus or Coach.
Purple routes on the map. At the road exit of the bus and coach station is a signpost pointing towards the Barbican. Cross the road and walk over then down the hill past the citizens advice centre down to the pedestrian crossing. Over the pedestrian crossing, veer slightly to the left of the flats and continue forward, southwards into the Barbican area. Walk towards the harbour. Follow the right hand side of the harbour to the glass-walled Dartmouth Glass Centre.
An alternative route is to exit at the lower end of the bus station by the little car park, then down to the small button roundabout. With your back to the station, take the right hand main road, southwards. This soon turns to the right, then an area opens out opposite the Barbican beside the harbour. This is a nice place for a picnic and a beer. Follow around the edge of the harbour, keeping the water on your left hand side.

For those who arrive by car. (Various options.) Positions of Plymouth's Speed cameras.
Warning: England is world renown for inadequate parking and Plymouth particularly so. The people of Exeter, which has much nicer parking polices, rarely come here and I cannot blame them. Plymouth is horrible and congestion seems a deliberate council policy, ready for congestion charges to squeeze the maximum taxes. There are many horror stories of parking in Plymouth. Many people have parked their car, to find the three nearest parking pay points out of order, yet are issued with a large fine within three minutes of parking. This is predatory parking, whose staff in a honest country would be offering help and advice, not fleecing the citizen in such a disgusting manner. Be warned, assume you WILL be fined. Traffic Gestapo roam like social parasites. There are increasing doubts about the legality of many of Plymouths official car parks, so if in any doubt whatsoever, do not park in Plymouth. Plymouth Council is regularly warned, but they seem to condone this and other practices.
So as a Plymothian, I can only apologise for my cities awful behaviour. Sorry, but welcome to modern Britain, where money and lawyers now come before common sense and decency.

If in your car, after hunting around, you may find no suitable free parking places for more than two hours. Therefore, for a good afternoons stroll, the reader will have to pay.
For those who do not like being stung or not intending to stay more than two hours, or poor like most Plymothians, then park near the huge gasometers at Clovelly Road, Cattedown, (green route on the first map, near the Breakwater pub where the police tried to 'break up' the peaceful petrol tax protests). This is also marked as route B on the second map. Some of this area has free parking, but only for two hours. It used to be free to park all day, but the council is deaf to requests to make it at least three hours, so that we all can enjoy the Barbican area.

For superfast entry to the gasometers, enter Plymouth from the A38, exit the roundabout under the flyover to follow alongside the Plym estuary. Stay in the middle lane with the railway on your left. Then move to the estuary side lane when the railways are on your right. This road eventually dips down to the left, to continue along an old railway route under three small bridges along a short straight section. Move to the left lane, to take the left slip road off the main route under the bridges, whereupon the Gasometers can be seen ahead. (See Route B on second map, at bottom of the page.)
Check the time, or set the timer on your watch. Walk due west from the Breakwater pub, past the signmakers and into Teats Hill Road, (which has no hill), into the rear of the Aquarium area. The Barbican is just beyond the aquarium, over the foot bridge. A five minute walk is far easier then a twenty minute hunt in dense traffic looking for a potential parking space :)

The following walk can take two hours, but naturally depends upon fitness and such like. The mid point for checking your timing at the one hour mark is at the lighthouse called Smeatons Tower.
There is (non-council) all-day parking beside the Bus and Coach Station for under four quid, which is just five minutes walk from the Barbican. To get there, use the same route, but do not turn up towards the gasometers, but follow the main route under the bridges, up the curve to the right, then left at the roundabout. Continue on to the next roundabout with the bombed church, where the carpark is on the left under the bingo hall. Then take instructions from 'arriving by coach and bus' - above.

If living near Plymouth or coming for the day, then a third car option is Central Park's Park and Ride at Milehouse beside the park and football ground will easily take you into the city centre. (See route A on second map, later.) To get to the Park and Ride, turn off from the A38 at the turning for Derriford hospital, but go due south past the park to the park and ride beside the football stadium. Sitting on the top of the bus (not literally) will also give a good view of the surrounds. Once in the centre of the city, go to the church and follow part of the 'arriving by train' route mentioned below.
There is also an open top double decker bus offering a Plymouth tour, which can be joined and alighted from at any point, to give a circular trip.

The Barbican and Hoe for those who arrive by train.
(Orange route on first map.) From the train station, walk up the hill to the large roundabout. Then look south towards the midday sun, along Armada Way. This leads towards the sea, with two large memorials on the horizon as can be seen in this picture. The two distant spikes are the War memorial and to the left, Smeatons Tower, a red and white banded lighthouse.

There is a long north to south open pedestrian area through the centre of Plymouth called Armada Way. Walk towards the south, past the sundial with it's large stainless steel gnomon surrounded by a pool. Continue south, towards the midday sun, under the pedestrian underpass, then up to the left of the pond in front of the thirteen storey council offices. From here turn left, eastwards towards the church tower with the clock face.

At the clock tower of the church, walk down the side road to the right and then left though the car park, through to the rear of the sixteenth century Merchants House. A tall steel spiral staircase is outside.

From the front of the Merchants house, turn south down to the main road, then turn left, down the road eastwards to the pedestrian crossing. Over the crossing, veer slightly to the left of the flats and continue forward southwards into the Barbican area. Walk towards the harbour. Follow the right hand side of the harbour to the glass-walled Dartmouth Glass Centre.

Move to the side of the harbour, to follow the waters edge of the harbour with its fine granite edging.
Originally this area was an early Saxon fishing village. An area nearby called 'Sutone' was mentioned in the Domesday book. The many wharves around Sutton Pool have been gradually built up since the 14th century, with six acres being reclaimed in this area in 1317.

This small harbour area may have been a Roman signal station, but proof is yet forthcoming.
As the River Plym silted up, Plymouth became the main port rather than Plympton.

After the Norman conquest, this area grew with the trade with France. Later, we needed fortification from Channel raiders. To prevent these raiders, a chain was strung across the channel to this little harbour area. The chain would be lowered to allow ships to pass and would be raised by a winch in a building called the Barbican. (A Barbican is an outer defensive fort or similar to protect any inner area.)

The main area where you are at present was refined between 1520 and 1558, with extensions in the 18th and 19th centuries.

This map is my composite from the various, often vague sources, but is fairly accurate, based on the remaining waterline and postition of the old fort.
The church of St Andrew's also acts as a reference point. (St Andrew's was built around 1380 to about 1480, but an earlier church stood here, with the earliest known vicar being Aelphege in 1087. Above the church door can be seen the word 'Resurgam' denoting the act of rebuilding after German bombings.)

On the old map, Drakes leat, carrying fresh water from Dartmoor, can be seen connecting to the top left hand corner of the fortifications. (Plymouth water sources.)

In 1374, in the last years of King Edward, he ordered the defence of Plymouth. The twelve burgeses of Sutton were given leters patent, to survey the town and rememdy problems. "Moreover the mayor and balifs and all and singular the inhabitants of the town were to be obeidient and aiding in the performance and excecution of these premises."

The first seal of the town of Suttone.

Naturally, a fort was needed and a small piece of the original fort can still be seen if you walk up the hill in the old streets. See later.

This fifteenth century fort was a modest affair and initially just a box plan called a Quadrate Castle. In 1405, the locals placed cannons to the east end of the Hoe to drive off some rather unwanted Spaniards who raided Plymouth. For the next couple of centuries, the Hoe had earth works to house cannon, should such seafaring continental 'tourists' get a bit too aggressive. (French, Spanish Armadas, Dutch and more recently the Germans had a go at us as well.)
Using your common sense, it is obvious where the earliest fort would be placed - on the corner to the smaller harbour. The chain would have been stretched across where the lock gates are today.
Above this would also be built upper levels to allow greater range for cannon and easier espying of ships as they came over the horizon.
By 1549, the fortifications zone had expanded across the bay to five blockhouses from Fishers Nose to Devils Point.

In 1435, Leland wrote - 'On the south side of this mouth is a Blok House and on a Rocky Hard by a stronge Castel Quadrante having at eche corner a great Roundtower. It semith to be no very old Peace of Worke'.
The original fort was probably 13th century and then scavenged for bricks later, giving Leland the impression of an older fort. This area may well have become out of use and even used as a quarry, as the records show for 1585 to 88, that a hundred and thirty five pounds was spent 'filling the barbicone with rubbel and erthe' and 'curveringe of the northe weste tower'. Meanwhile there was a Ralph Richards 'who stole the leade from the castell.'
Gradually the fortifications improved and King Henry IV gave permission for the town to crenelate the fortress in 1404.
The 1592 site of the fort was further improved in 1666 by Charles the II, and had five angle bastions and two horn works, which is much as it is today.

This area, loosely called the Barbican, used to be the main landing point for fishermen until 1990's when it moved to the new larger landing place across the water opposite with its round windows. The national aquarium is to the south of this.

Walk along the edge of the harbour towards the large strange fish sculpture on a tall pole where the boats enter the harbour. This was Barbican Quay, now renamed West Pier, a place of homage to the lavish sea-faring history of Plymouth.
Turning away from the water and looking up, on one of the old Barbican buildings can be seen a railway sign for the south western railway company, it's paint fading. Now long forgotten, it shows the later trade which once flourished here. Under this is nice ice-cream shop.
From the fish on a pole, walk along the side of the water southwards towards the sun. The main places of interest are the Mayflower steps, built in 1934 to commemorate the spot near where the Pilgrim Fathers left for New England in 1620. They sailed to a new land called the Americas, which became a British colony, later an independent country which is now the United States. These pilgrims came from across England, initially intended to go in two ships, but one became unseaworthy in the crossing from Holland. Although the Mayflower was overcrowded, it made it's historic journey to help found a land of religious freedom.

In 1384, passports could be obtained in Plymouth and a bill of 1389 stated that apart from soldiers and merchcants, no one may leave England except through Dover or Plymouth.

There are many other plaques of interest.

The list of the Mayflowers passengers are on a plaque. To find it, face the road, cross over and walk to the right, back along the other side of the road, to a small open area with bench seats and upturned cannon barrels for bollards. The list of names is on the corner of the wall straight ahead, on the side of the small information shop on the corner. In the picture opposite, it is just beyond the right of the picture, on Island House, a probable contender for where the Pilgrims stayed.

Reading between the lines, this plaque tells it's own stories.

An interesting spelling of ships 'surgeon', and the man doing it. At least his sewing skills would be good. About this time, the surgeon would have been a barber, and the term barber surgeon was common. It is to this day that the holders of the finest profession on the planet are still referred to as Mr and not as Doctor.

From this small open area, the narrow streets at the back of the small harbour can be seen. Such streets would be found during the reign of Good Queen Bess. (Queen Elizabeth the First). Walk away from the harbour and up the small lane to the right. This is the lower half of New Street (1584). Image what the streets and people would have looked and sounded like a few hundred years ago. An Elizabethan house can be seen on the left. It is a museum and open to the public for a small, sensible fee.
As can be seen from the outside and particularly from the inside, a seafaring tradition of carpentry is predominant. The spiral stairs with its rope central handle is particularly appropriate and ideal for the narrow confines to be seen of the period.
Details inside include the classic Elizabethan beds and furniture, from a time when the skills of the carpenter could fashion wood to last indefinitely. The house is in some ways, a mirror of the skills and lifestyle on a ship, but of course, the ship would be far more enclosed. Make a room like this but a quarter the size, lower the roof (deckhead), then fill it with mariners, then bob it precariously on the open ocean for months, with poor navigation and poorer food, and you may just begin to get a feel for life at sea.

Further up this street is a small doorway on the left, a small opening between houses leading to the Elizabethan garden. Even in the height of the tourist season, this remains a small haven of peace and quiet, showing how the more affluent could have some luxury in the midst of daily business during this time. Although small in comparison with the many large gardens associated with the times, it still retains the formality and makes use of the limited plants available. Medicines were still closely related to nature and the works of Galen.
The gardens are formal, in the style of the times and would also include some medicinal plants. Later, as overcrowding happened, these gardens would contain small houses as the welathy merchants moved out of town, and like most places suffering overcrowding, became slums. Return as you came in, then back down to the barbican.

Outside, the old English streets were once alive with the sounds of fishermen and sailors, children and warehouse keepers and the throng of daily life. Such times were interesting in many ways.
As education was sparse, children were therefore part of the workforce. With a lack of medical care or modern hygiene, life was much shorter. The narrow streets and lack of powered devices created plenty of work for all. This was a much harder life than today, without the knowledge or safety concerns which ensure we reach old age in much better health.
Where people today walk with a gentle stroll, centuries of our ancestors were plying their daily lives. The weeks only separated in this predominantly Christian land by worship on a Sunday. This was at a time when The Queens father, Henry the Eighth had a domestic problem and thus broke the ties with Rome to found the Church of England. This permitted a more liberal approach to worship to be possible, when the Bible could now be openly read in plain English.

These old streets are now mainly private dwellings, but still manage to give a partial feeling for the crowding of such places of their time. It does not take much effort to visualise the warehouses filled with contents from a sea faring country.

The exotic spices, timbers, silks, plus the incoming and outgoing manufactures of Europe before the industrial revolution. Add to this the privateers who counted others ships as their prizes, perhaps prisoners and sometimes slaves. Such maritime trade would eventually fuel the slave trade. England has a dark past of slavery. England and other countries would take manufactured goods to Africa to exchange for slaves traded from Arab 'trappers'. The slaves would then be shipped across the Atlantic in atrocious conditions to the colonies in the Americas, who were often subjugated for the later cotton fields. Cotton was then shipped to England to help fuel the early industrial age and it's 'dark satanic mills'. A few people got rich, but yet again - the rest of society got poorer, and cheaper cloth with a very high hidden cost.

Look about you, go back a few hundred years and imagine the noises and smells, rouges, peddlers and tinkers wandering about looking for a means to find their daily bread. Sailors a little worse for ale and eyeing the ladies. The gentry in their finery and priests going about their ways. Workers shouting down from the upper warehouses, hanging out, oblivious to modern safety regulations, all done in a form of Englifh we would find difficult to understand. In later times for some who could afford the luxury, perhaps smoking a clay pipe, filled with a new import called tobacco from the new world. Although fish, meat, vegetables and bread were plentiful, the potato as we know it today was still far from being available. The English were known for eating heartily, having a larger proportion of meat in their diet than many others in Europe.

Water would have been pumped up from wells, although the new leat from the upper reaches of Dartmoor would be built by Drake when he became mayor. It was finished in 1560, bringing good drinking water to Plymouth. Many lower sections still exist, and the upper courses of the leat are still used to help supply the large reservoir at Burrator. The part of the leat shown here is near Princetown in the centre of Dartmoor.
The second, later Plymouth Leat came in from Dartmoor near Mutley Plain, where it dropped down the hill from the reservoir with many flour mills (Drakes Place Mill, Higher Grist Mill, the Purling Stream House and the Lower Grist Mill). Just east of where the large sundial is today, the leat split into three, to power further mills, and gradually worked its way to the west so the whole city received safer drinking water and free power in an ecological manner.

The earliest recorded export of a cargo leaving Plymouth was in 1211. In 1440, Henry the Sixth granted Plymouth it's Town Charter.

The narrow confines and lack of public amenities enables the imagination to see how disease could proliferate. The fourteenth century experienced a mini ice age and thousands were reduced to starving to death as crops continually failed. In 1348 a bubonic plague spread out from central Asia, carried by the fleas of rats with international trade and eventually reached these shores. Known as the Black Death, it wiped out a third to a half of the population of Europe.

Down the narrow street would be seen the many masts of real sailing ships. Ships so small by modern standards as to be an unbelievable means of sailing the Atlantic, yet also to ply the seas around Africa to the recently discovered and exotic lands of spice and silk of India and China, from where so many fabled tales emanated. The crews making repairs, some high up in the rigging, or some with a constant stream of bales, barrels and exotic looking boxes carried across the gangplanks, accompanied with a rich repartee and perhaps a few expletives we would still recognise today.

Old English was the common form of talking and recording for most ordinary people of this land, and this was written on parchment which lasts much longer than paper.

As an example, The lords Prayer in Old English would have looked like this. (Albeit with modern script.)

            Fader usaer du ard in heofru
            Fie gehalgad noma fin
            Tocymed ric tim
            Sie willow tim
            fauae is in heofne and in erdo

            hlaf userne of wistlic fel us todaeg
            and fget us lcylca usra
            fuae ueo fgefon leyldgum usum
            And ne inlead usih in costunge
            and gefrig usich fro yfle

Although difficult to modern English speakers, it was the common language, which has a few easily spotted connections to modern English. Father, earth, today, forget, forgive, lead, us. The actual pronunciation is still in some dispute, but the accepted form of pronunciation is just as difficult to recognise as the writing.
For those who wish to listen to early English, some of Geoffrey Chaucers works, such as Caunterbury Tales are available spoken in Early English (via the BBC,) where tales is pronounced as ta-les. As throughout the whole of these Isles, there would be a local variation on the accents and dialect with variations on grammar, words and pronunciations.

This is a fourteenth or fifteenth Century recipe for Caboche Potage.
(Cabbage pottage. See also Food and recipes section.)

      Take caboches and quarter hem,
      and seeth hem in gode broth with oynouns ymynced
      and the white of lekes yslyt and ycorue smale.
      And do therto safroun and salt and force it with powdour douce.

Obviously, the saffron shows that this is for the Lords, not the peasants, but otherwise a common recipie for all.

Later on, during the periods around 1750 to 1790, trade blossomed and with the wars with a variety of other countries, when press gangs were common, dragging the fitter young men into the Royal Navy against their wishes. The act of placing the queens shilling in the persons beer tankard and drinking it dry was considered an act of voluntary recruitment, hence the proliferation of tankards with glass bottoms. Because a sailor walks with a certain manner and clothing, they were easily targeted. For this reason, there is a 'Mariners Way' between the (then) large civil harbours of Morewellham and Dartmouth, across Dartmoor, avoiding the Naval base of Plymouth.

Throughout this history of seafaring, sailors rarely bothered learning to swim, as 'it only delayed the inevitable' final journey down to Davy Jones locker.
Only in modern times would the wish to stay alive, with modern practices of hoping for help be considered a practical alternative to a quick drowning. Britain has a long and proud history of RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Association) Lifeboats. A tribute is on the wall up the small hill on the road, along with many other memorial plaques. Seafaring takes a high toll in lives.
Such idiocy is increasing by far too many rich 'boaties' who have no common sense. I've recently experienced two divers who were lost near the Eddystone when the mist descended, and only found help after motoring in the wrong direction as they had no compass ! We had to tow them back, as they were running out of fuel. This stuff is increasingly common and annoying all the local boat owners and swimmers. Most of the boats you see toay belong to 'boatie' prats.

A little further up the road above the landing stage is a plaque to the W.W.II Australian Flying Boat crews, who flew long sorties in Sunderland's from across the harbour to protect the convoys and help destroy the German submarine menace.

Return back down the road towards the Mayflower steps. Opposite is the Mayflower Centre, another expensive council building so out of keeping with the rest of the area that few if any locals like, so less said, the better. Behind this on the rise, was the site of old Plymouth Castle, which is said to have had four towers and guarded the watergate or Barbican, which had a chain across the entrance. To see the remains of the fort, take the narrow set of steps set in the wall and turn right, into the memorial garden which is essentially the site of the fort. The remains of one corner can still be seen beside the flats.

To the side of the Mayflower steps can be seen a small opening leading down a few steps to the landing stage for small boats. This had a water taxi to the commercial harbour opposite. Tucked away on the Barbican side are a few viaduct style boat-houses and a small crane. Continue south for a gentle stroll past the small sailing craft.
The technologies on many of these small boats bears little relationship to the ships of Elizabethan times, where wood and ropes were crafted locally. Modern materials may have come from anywhere in the world. Fibreglass, extruded aluminium, stainless steel, polypropylene and nylon all contrive to do the same as all other boats throughout the centuries, especially those of the locals, - to catch the wind and sail a course upon the open seas. (Real sailors should not be confused with the appalling proliferation of expensive ghost apartments around the Barbican, whose owners get drunk or broken down at sea twice a year on expensive boats and bleat for the RNLI. One called a distress for the RNLI to help, because 'he forgot how to get back into harbour'. No wonder the locals dislike the proliferation of prats with their big shiny boats.)

Follow around the waters edge past the curved road to the launching ramp. Nearby is a small pier which offers a variety of small leisure cruises. A day-trip out to Cawsand is particularly recommended for another day, if the weather is fine. Don't forget your swimming togs and a packed lunch.
Walk up the wide steps to the main road.
This is the area of Fishers Nose, now used by owners of small yachts and are the real sailors of tomorrow.
Opposite is the large wall of the Royal Citadel, now used by the Royal Marines. This was built around 1665 to protect the new Royal Dockyard against the Dutch. The newer, bleak extension can be easily recognised.
Follow along the main road which curves around to open out to the panorama to the Hoe. The small tower (coffee shop) on the left is a remaining extension of the large fort behind you and was part of the defences. There are two old cannon much the worse for wear pointing outwards from this modern road level. This old pair have probably been used as bollards to tie up ships, as there are grooves where ropes have been rubbing for many decades. The finest cannon are in the Dockyard museum, (appointment only) including a superb bronze Chinese example.

From the small tower on the corner of the main road, turn to face away from the sea, cross the road and walk up the steps in the side of the wall. Walk along the upper grass path under the walls of the Citadel to get a fine view. Here is a good place to get the hot drinks flask out on a cold day. If a warm day and the ice cream van is near the foot of the steps, then the choice is obvious.
Opposite can be seen the long jetty of Mountbatten, where the Sunderland flying boats were operational with many Australian crews, (10Sqdn RAAF) helping to protect the convoys from German submarines during the early stages of world war two. Thanks guy's. To see a giant Sunderland flying boat land and take off from Plymouth must have been a superb sight. The last flying boat to land in Plymouth Sound was a restored Catalina, during the early 1990's.

Just to the left side of the main buildings at Mountbatten, the area of water has no anchorage and thus no boats. This is because a violent storm sunk many ships before the breakwater was built and remains an archaeological site.
Tucked away behind this lies a small quarry, where rocks for the breakwater were hewn, then sailed around and dropped into position. Three million tons of rocks, quarried by hand and all laid under sail. No mean feat.

To the left of Jennycliffe jetty behind Mountbatten, lies Oreston and its limestone quarry. On this side of the water lies Cattedown and its limestone quarries, hidden behind the oil tanks. Limestone leads to caves over millions of years.
About 30,000 years ago, in the Lower Paleociene Period, (just after that last big ice age), our ancestors ventured here for the first time. At this time, the sea was much further to the south and much of the south coast was conencted to the coentinental land mass.
Limestone caves of approximately middle or late Paleociene period have been found at Stonehouse (in 1776) and Oreston. The Oreston study of 1872, and Cattedown Quarry in 1887, showed remains of humans, along with rhinocerous, cave lion and hyena.
The archeolgy of MountBatten has shown extrensive Bronze Age trading, with bronzes from Northern France, a socketed Breton axe and a tanged sickle. Very rare coinage from the Iron Age has also been found, of Dubonnic gold and Amorican silver, plus some silver pieces of Dubonii, Coriosolites and Redones and are dated about 30 BC.

Cattewater is from from Cad, an old English Name for battlefield.
The River Plym or Plymma, is from the Celtic word, pilim 'to roll'.
Plympton or Plym-Town was the origal main settlment, and Plymouth or Plym-Mouth being a much later conurbation built from the three towns of Plymouth, Sutton and Devonport.
Plympton was a main port until the estuary silted up. It was a borough from 1194 and had two MPs for over 500 years.
An old Rime : 'Plymouth was a fuzzy down when Plympton was a Borough town'.

On the horizon can be seen the latest of four Eddystone lighthouses. The bulding of the third Eddystone lighthouse in granite caused John Smeaton to build the first horse drawn tramway in the southwest and later, during the bulding of the breakwater, John Rennie bult the first 3ft 6inch tramway from Oreston Quarry in 1812.

Seawards beyond the jetty lies Jennycliff and above the cliffs can be seen the large wall used for a firing range, now disused. The masts above are easily seen and the golf course nearby has some fine views. Further out towards the horizon, by the far edge of the cliffs can be seen a small jetty, where lies an old fort. This is the Bovisands sea diving training centre, which contains a decompression chamber, particularly useful with the many local diving wrecks around this coast. (> See also Jennycliffe walk.)

Sitting on the grass under the Citadel wall, ahead can be seen the almost mile-long breakwater. The extra height offers a much better view. At low tide, it looks impressive. At high tide little can be seen other than a line, perhaps a few waves lapping the upper surface or breakers washing over the top. In some storms, large granite boulders the size of cars have been known to be moved by the waves and another million tons were later added to maintain it's strength.
On the left is a metal post with an unusual spherical cage which is capable of holding six people should they manage to get there in a storm. Not a nice way to survive a storm, but much safer than among the waves. Just inside the breakwater in the middle is a sea fort, similar to many around our British coastline. On the other end is a small lighthouse and beside this the deep water channel into Plymouth. The deep water channel is to the left of the island and can be recognised by the large red and green buoys. This snaking entry allows everyone a good look at the larger ships and submarines when they enter Plymouth.

There are occasional boat trips from the barbican to the breakwater.
Just inside the breakwater are four main safe anchorage's alpha, bravo, charlie and delta buoys, secured to which can often be seen Royal Fleet Auxiliary support ships.

In earlier times, the great ocean liners such as the Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, Mauritania and the S.S.France would be anchored inside the breakwater, so the passengers can take the train for the fastest passage between America and London. Hence the railways sign above one of the Barbican houses as mentioned earlier. Modern passenger handling would be comparatively easy compared to the luggage requirements of those days. Some pieces of luggage were the size of a person, being whole wardrobes in their own right. Personal cases with sets of shoes and these once seen, never forgotten. Cases crafted in superb wood containing the complete shaving and grooming kits for gentlemen. For the ladies, stunningly made matching silver brushes, mirrors and a host of beautifully made compartments for jewellery, all fully equipped in a manner now only available in museums. A different world from not so long ago.

This advert is from a French line and nothing is new. - We Brits even have the French to build the Royal Navy's latest aircraft carriers. Oh that it should come to this ignominy. Nelson and Brunel would not approve.

During the seventeenth century when the Dutch were aggressive, this, the latest in a line of Citadels which stands here today, was built. It was definitely the most prestigious fort in the country. If you later walk around the upper path, on the corner can be seen a commemorative stone for Earl of Bath, dated 1666. This carved in 'Moor Stone' which I am sure you can guess where it came from. It would later be called granite. This will outlast the limestone of the surrounding harbours natural stone.

These rocks lie nearby beause this was limestone from warm coral seas, laid down 400 million years ago when nearer the equator, which later moved tectonicaly to this position. The dinosaurs came and went, and 280 million years ago, a huge granite batholith erupted under the southwest to create Dartmoor and Bodmin moors.

If you are an American visitor, then the London Bridge, now residing in Havasu, is made from the same granite stone. A few spare sections of this bridge are still on the moor, beside the old rail track to Swelltor Quarry. Just west of Princetown, where they were first cut and dressed and are regularly visited as parts of many gentle Dartmoor walks.

Drop down to continue along the path under the wall, then down the grassy path to the main pavement (sidewalk). Cross over the road, to follow the limestone wall up the gentle incline of the pavement beside the road. An opening down to the sea front will be seen.
Note the limestone wall. This was originally a coral reef laid down in the Carboniferous period. Later, tectonic forces metamorphosed the area, and the coral became the limestone you see today. Look carefully at various blocks as you walk along and you will still be able to see some of the creatures which existed locally 400 million years ago. ('Locally' means that due to tectonic movements, this rock was laid down while much nearer the equator, and well before the dinosaurs.)

Behind and nestling in the shadow of the Citadel can be seen the Royal Marine Biological Society of Great Britain, a leading marine science centre. From here research is conducted throughout the British seas and across the worlds oceans.

Before descending from the road, take a good look at the paths and decide if you wish this small excursion, such as if the kiddies want to have a splash in the water, or whether time is at a premium.
This area has been left to detriorate and although the locals have offered varous plans, it seems the council is set to let developers build here instead.
Check your time for any car parking limitations. If time is short, continue up the road and directly up to the large lighthouse.
If time is aplenty, then to choose the best route for the descent to the small beach called Tinside, or perhaps to just stroll along the upper paths.
There is also a small cafe/shop part way down, allowing a wonderfully calm place to enjoy a cuppa and the scenery. In the summer the atmosphere is accompanied with the song of many small birds in the bushes. If with kids, get the ice creams here and follow down to the minute beach.

Return up from the beach to the road via any of the many routes available. Plymouth has never had a decent beach, the nearest being at Devils Point to the west. The proper beaches with plenty of sand are at Bovisands to the east and Cawsands to the West, both a few hours drive away. These beaches are also accessible via boat trips from the Barbican area, for a full days summer outing.

Continue west along the sea front road, to the sheltered promenade above the main bathing pool.
Behind the long, curving promenade is the Dome, a visitor centre set into a small old quarry. The history of Plymouth is displayed for a fee, plus a shop and information centre.
Drop down under the main road, to walk under the promenade and continue to gradually drop down to the entrance to the main swimming pool. To the right of the entrance was a narrow set of steps leading to excellent free swimming pools cut into the rock. Some have been destroyed to make an unnecessary extension to the main pool. In good weather, follow these down to the sole remaining free paddling pool which countless children used to enjoy during the summer. There is another deeper pool further around.
This is a natural heat trap nestling by the sea and makes a great place for a picnic in the summer. This is one of the truly nicest places in Plymouth in the summer, especially with toddlers. Let's hope the councillors and their nasty developer fiends don't spoil it further. Please do not drop litter, use loud radios or other uncivilised behaviour, as such precious spots during the summer are all too rare.

The large diving platform is for the brave. Occasionally, groups of raw recruits from the Royal Marines can be seen marching from the nearby barracks, dressed just in boots and olive green overalls, to be marched up to the top platform, then to jump into the sea fully clothed. A safety rubber dingy is used close by for this frightening experience.

Follow around and past the steep steps, around to the sea from the hut and past this to the launching ramp area, where you can just laze and watch ships pass by, then return up to the road.
Further around is the Royal Yacht Club and its discrete harbour. Here Sir Francis Chichester landed after the first being the first to sail single handed around the world. An ice cream hut is nearby up on the main road.
Around this area are the Tamar River boat trips, locally referred to as 'Dockyard and Warships'. Check the times of the trips to see if you can fit them into your schedule should you have plenty of time.
On the upper side of the road is the well laid out gardens and Victorian pathways to the top. Follow these paths up, to overlook the Hoe. From here the whole of the Hoes magnificent panorama can be encompassed.

When looking to the right of the breakwater, the fine tree covered coast of Cornwall can be seen. Nestling in this classically landscaped coast lies Edgecumbe house, with its feet lapping down onto the estuary of the river Tamar. It is now part of the National Trust and a fine place for a day out. The landscape was the work of Richard, Baron Mount Edgecombe and his gardener Thomas Hull. (Nice one Thomas.) The excellent coast path through the grounds of Edgecumbe is one of Britain's little known treasures. A full days hike around this coast starts from the Cremyll ferry, just a little way around the Plymouth estuary. Before leaving the small passenger ferry boat, check the times, to be back before the last ferry leaves. (See larger tour, later.) Edgecumbe house was earmarked by the leader of the Spanish Armada for his own, had he succeeded.

The River Tamar, entering the Sound from the east, is the border between Devon and Cornwall, and can be followed all the way north to within just a few miles of the north coast.
Entering from beside the Barbican is the River Plym or Plymma, from the Celtic word, pilim 'to roll'.
Furthur upstream on Dartmoor, the Plym was also known as the river Cad, a Celtic word for skirmish, at Cadover Bridge.
Splitting off from the Plym, just a few miles upstream from the Plym is the River Tavy, leading to Tavistock.

If you stood here in 997, you would have see Viking invaders come this way, and they are recorded as unsuccessfully attacking Lydford, although they destroyed the first abbey at Tavistock.

Looking out to sea : On July 29th 1588, the broad crescent of a hundred and thirty ships of the Spanish Armada passed this way. It was to be harassed out in the English Channel by superior English warships and tactics, on it's way to the demise of Spain's finest fleet. A massive fleet full of sailors, soldiers, horses, armaments and the gold to pay them.
Addressing the Navy on the coast in the south east of England, as the Spanish Armada approached the south east coast, Good Queen Bess was quoted as saying 'I may have the body of a weak and feeble woman, but I have the heart and stomach of a King of England', starting a fine tradition of publicly encouraging the people of our land to fight for our freedoms. God was indeed with Good Queen Bess, as the Spanish Armada then succumbed to a particularly bad storm, eventually being scattered around the coast of Britain. Many ships made it all the way around the north of Scotland and back down past Ireland, only to be dashed upon the rocks along the way.

Much later in the river Tamar, Plymouth history would include many rotting hulks of old ships. These were times of war with Napoleon. (The French again). In 1806 Thomas Tyrwhitt laid the foundation stone of a prison at Princetown, to begin housing the French Napoleonic prisoners who were previously housed in those rotting hulks.

If you look away from the sea, to the horizon to the right, beyond the central war memorial, you can see Dartmoor and the smaller white hills of the China clay works. Beyond this lies Princtown. Later, when the American war of Independence, (low taxes and high freedoms must always to be fought for), this prison housed American prisoners and an American recently had the Princetown church refurbished. During the Napoleonic wars, the officers were billeted in local farms and allowed to wander up to a mile, on their word of honour. Thus for a while, Dartmoor farms became well aquatinted with all the fashions, foibles and dances of the continent.

The granite upheaval of Dartmoor caused the area to be the worlds largest tin producer for many centuries, along with some copper and silver, thus helping the development of the Bronze Age, of which Dartmoor is Britains largest museum of this era. The clay pits, Kaolin, a Chiese word, hence the phrase Cina Clay, is used in papermaking, the finest china pottery, cosmetics and pills. The last aspririn you took probably had hundreds of million years of Dartmoor history in it. Aspirin too has medicinal history from our eariest times and originally made from willow bark.

On the upper Promenade the long, flat open area has a selection of memorials. The largest is to the war dead. Some wanted it moved, but enjoying our freedom is something never to be forgotten. The cost of freedom is far too high yet paid in full by many, as can be seen in the names remembered across the many surfaces of the memorial. Always read out at least one name on a war memorial and consider what price was paid for your freedom.
When a merchant ship was torpedoed and sank, the sailors pay stopped from the time of the sinking in those freezing North Atlantic convoys. Most did not live to receive their last pay packet.

The memorial to Sir Francis Drake commemorates him as a Mayor of Plymouth, and not only the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588, but before this, he circumnavigated the globe between 1577 to 1579, hence the globe beside him. There is a bowling green just behind which is particularly appropriate. According to legend, Sir Francis was believed to have been bowling when the Armada was first seen, but he said he had plenty of time to finish his game. This was probably because the tide was wrong for leaving port. Howard, Raleigh, Drake and the others harassed this massive Spanish fleet all the way up the English channel, splitting them up with their far superior seafaring skills to cause great confusion among the enemy.
No more armadas were considered until Democracy fought Fascism and Hitler's aborted plans in 1942, as German air superiority was not achieved for the invasion.
The latest memorial is to the RAF, who saved this country in what Winston Churchill called 'Their Finest Hour'. Plymouth with it's dockyard suffered dreadful bombing by the Luftwaffe in the second world war from French airfields, which eventually led to the finely laid out city centre, the work of the architect Abercombie, seen here overlooking the ruins of Plymouth just after the war.
From here is a good view down into Plymouth city centre. The long route up to the Hoe is called Armada Way. Near the city centre is a church, left as vandalised by the Germans, a memorial to the thousands of civilians who died. A German 'shopping list' for Plymouth, from 21st March 1941, involving 53 Heinkel 111's and 21 Junkers 88's.
Just beyond this is the Drake Centre, a 'Euro Design', recently voted as the ugliest building in the Southwest.

Walking along the promenade, there may be a fair, rock festival, road-shows, special celebrations, airshow days or a thousand or more motorcycles, old cars and commercial vehicles, as this is now a fine venue for many special occasions throughout the year. This is a particularly good venue for free airshows and the national firework competition.

Looking away from the sea on a clear day, the edge of the moor can be seen to the north east, off to the right. Drake lived at Buckland Abbey after the dissolution of the monasteries as part of Henry the Eighths little domestic problems with marriage. Buckland Abbey is now a fine museum open to visitors and lies just to the west of Yelverton, ten miles north of Plymouth. Drake circumnavigated the globe and his body lies in a coffin sunk off the west coast of the central Americas.

One item which cannot be missed on the Hoe is Smeatons Tower, just a part of Britain's long history of lighthouses. Look out to sea just to the right of the small lighthouse on the end of the breakwater, on the extreme horizon lies Eddystone rocks. The rocks are nine miles south-south-west of Rame Head. With clear weather and good eyesight it can be seen as a lighthouse and a small stump of an earlier lighthouse to it's right. In the evenings, it's flash is easily seen. On this rock, the worlds first modern lighthouse was built by Henry Winstanley. He died in his lighthouse in a terrible storm, in which thousands of windmills were also destroyed and church roofs were blown off. The conditions at sea must have been absolutely atrocious. A fine silver model of this early lighthouse is in the city museum.
The second lighthouse was made of wood, sealed with pitch in the ship building tradition, but burnt down. Smeatons design, now on the Hoe, was the third and a perfect design, but the rocks underneath began to crumble. Being made of interlocking blocks of granite, Smeatons work was capable of disassembly and reassembled here on the Hoe for the enjoyment of all. A truly excellent monument to seafaring and the work of the granite workers. The latest is a unmanned concrete lighthouse with a helicopter pad on the top. The new, and also the stump of the lighthouse on the hoe can also be seen on a clear day with good eyesight.
Outside the pub on the corner to the south west of the Pavilions is a cross section of these interlocking granite blocks, to show just how incredibly strong this design is.

Along the end of the promenade lies the Citadel. Gun slots can be seen along the upper edges facing towards Plymouth. This may seem strange as there were no slots on the seaward faces, where one would normally expect to find the natural targets.
From the front of the old park keepers house, (now a cafe) follow the path around to the main entrance to the citadel, which faces away from the sea.
Reaching the Citadel, turn left to follow around it's wall. There may be an armed soldier guarding the main entrance.
Just before the main entrance of the citadel, the main road curves around and downward. Follow this Lambhay Hill down, around its curve, then follow the Hoegate Street turning right, towards the back of the Barbican, looking out for the down-hill narrow Black Friars Lane on the right.

Black Friars Lane leads down to the back of the Barbican. Exiting the lane, the old Gin Factory is on the left. This is the oldest working gin distillery in England since 1793. Before this, the building may have been a Dominican monastery which dates from 1431. In 1620, the Pilgrim Fathers are alleged to have lodged here before their famous journey. Plymouth Gin is still the definitive and recommended ingredient for the perfect dry Martini. Shop open to the public, plus tours.

Black Friars Lane opens out opposite one of the artist Lenkovitch's wall murals. The murals are a little rude, but superb studies of people. Underneath is Jacks House, a fine little tourist shop. Walk though this shop, to exit at the other side. Once outside, there is a larger wall painting up and to the left. It is in a poor state, but many decades ago it proclaimed the artist Lenkovitz to the people of Plymouth. Now dead, the legends are starting to grow, to make the rich history of Plymouth even richer in the true sense of the word.

Walk along the street away from the mural, then turn right, back into the main street, with Black Friars Lane on the right.
Opposite are the usual shops, but also some of the early buildings can be seen. These are particularly low, showing the effect of our modern diets, good healthcare and thus our taller stature, but also shows that the lack of early building regulations were not applicable to making overly tall doorways.

Return back to the open space near the mural. Ahead and to the left, facing the small island in the road lies a classic Customs and Excise Office, so common in ports belonging across the British Empire. This being the 'New' Customs House of 1810. In front of it is a set of steps down to the harbour. If lucky, it is possible to feed swans from these steps. Holding a piece of bread between the fingers will do no harm, although the swans beak tends to nip a little. Always hold children securely when near water.

The old warehouses are now put to modern uses, but the upper storey openings and the beams for hauling up the goods can still be seen. Close your eyes a little and far older days can still be easily imagined, the goods, the fish, the sounds, the untidiness and the work involved.
Walk along to the end which also has steps where swans can be fed. Here can be found Captain Jaspers, a Plymouth tradition. Originally a small hut for fishermen to get a snack, the mackerolls (smoked mackerel in a roll) are recommended. The deposit on a cup for a cup of tea allows the visitor to stroll about the Barbican a little, or to sit out of the wind with a warm mug of tea, particularly useful on colder days. If you find the barbican a regularly nice place to wander or relax, perhaps following in the tradition of countless artists, then bring your own cup, so you can stroll around with a nice cuppa, perhaps enjoying a mackeroll, while other tourists enjoy lesser fare.

This returns the walker back to the start point. At this point the reader has not walked though the main tourist street with its plethora of shops.
At a brisk pace, two hours from the free car parking should just be possible. But always keep an eye on the time, returning the following day for finishing off the tour if required.

Return to the car beside the gasometers.
Walk around the waterfront southwards past the glass centre, to the big green fish sculpture and back past the aquarium.
Return to the City Centre.
From the glass centre, the visitor can walk up the main old street in the Barbican, back towards the distillery. There are a few private, original Elizabethan houses further up this street on the left. Then turn right though a narrow street to return to the open small island area in front of the large mural.
From here, return via the pedestrian crossing on the main road. Turn left, to follow the wide main road. Then take the second turning right which will lead to the Elizabethan Merchants House, another museum. From there, walk between the house and the new magistrates courts, to turn up the road to the church. From here the City centre is straight ahead.
Return to the Bus Station.
From the glass centre, the visitor can walk up the main old street in the Barbican, back towards the distillery. There are a few private, original Elizabethan houses further up this street on the left. Then turn right though a narrow street to return to the open small island area in front of the large mural. From here, turn right to the pedestrian crossing on the main road. Over the pedestrian crossing and continue straight ahead up the hill to the bus and coach station straight ahead.

If keen, there is a larger tour of Plymouth for cyclists and cars added at the end of this page.

2007: This page will soon be dropped as there is no feedback.
A guide to the encrapment of Plymouth and its redevelopment rape will replace this webpage in 2008 if no feedback.

Plymouth is no Barcelona, no superb modern bridges nor fancy cathedral. Nor is it a Blackpool or Las Vegas, thank God! But Plymouth does have superb scenery and history. It is British and the locals still like the way it is, although many believe the new casino and Mackay's awful plans will soon drag Plymouth downmarket a long way.
Mackay has, in collusion with the councillors, already ruined Royal Parade for 1.4 million pounds. Opposition to the Mackay plans were allowed five minutes in the Council chambers, while the Pro lobby had nine months assistance and even a helicopter. Corruption indeed.
We locals pay - but have no say !

For those who are in the area and have a car or cycle, then here's an extra little tour of Plymouth.
This is a compilation with asides for Cremyll ferry to Mount Edgecumbe, which is also recommended for a few days stroll along the south west coast path.

The orange route takes the cyclist or walker eastwards to Chelston Meadow, and thence along a cycle track which can lead to Dartmoor, see the Plymouth to Dartmoor route, also on this website.

Western circular route of Plymouth by car or cycle.
From Plymouth City Centre.

From the main road in front of the thirteen story Civic Centre building, cycle west along the main road called Royal Parade, past the first large roundabout, then through the traffic light complex then another roundabout, past the Old Theatre on the left. If on a cycle, take a little time to cross the road opposite to view its fine mural tiles of the defeat of the Spanish Armada.

Continue past the modern industrial and commercial buildings on the left, which have replaced the long and rich history of this area, onto the roundabout at Stonehouse bridge. To one side can be seen the large motor yacht building complex.
On what was the upstrean side is now playing fields, but tucked in to the south east lies the remains of the creek entrance to the old Royal Naval hospital, where injured sailors and marines were sent when 'up the creek'. This is the creek.

Variation 1. If wished, from here the cyclist or driver can take a digression southwards to Devils Point, looking out over the Hoe and Drakes Island. So, at the roundabout, turn left, due south - up the slight hill towards Devils Point, then onwards past the Army Barracks on the left. Once past the armed soldier on the left, do not take the next turning right which will lead down the road called Admirals Hard, to the passenger and cycle ferry to Cremyll.

Cremyll ferry will take the walker and cyclist to Edgecumbe house, which has a superb coastal path ideal for walkers and cyclists.
Continue straight past the Army Barracks, south to the small twisting narrow lane and follow this on to the sea front. Continue up to the sea front, then right beside the old wall to the car park. Park the car and walk, following the path a long way around to the end. Opposite can be seen Cremyll and it's ferry. The water in this estuary is particularly dangerous when the tide is flowing. Many ships can often be seen and the occasional nuclear submarine passing close by.
As you walk around the front, westwards, this is a beautiful area which may soon be damaged by hotels, so enjoy it while you can. The concrete emplacements were installed to take nine and a half inch guns for protection between world wars I and II.

Return to main route.
From the roundabout at Stonehouse bridge, continue up the hill ahead, on to the next roundabout. This area is old Devonport. Follow the H.M.Dockyard wall (Razor wire on top), around to the right towards the next small button roundabout opposite the old cinema, now a bingo hall. Continue straight ahead to the beginning of Devonport park with good views over the north end of the Dockyard. On the other side of the river can be seen the oil storage depot for the dockyard.
Cycle down the main road, straight past the left turn to Torpoint ferries, continuing straight on to the bottom of the hill, with the Dockyard wall to your left and a school on your right. Turn left, then past Albert Gate with its old clock tower, up the gentle hill to the right and on to St Levan Gate, then follow on to the much more elaborate entrance to HMS Drake, the Royal Naval component of the Dockyard.
Just up the slope from HMS Drake, the road passes over a small rail bridge with a path to the left. Cyclists can follow this narrow path down to cross the large iron bridge, locally known as shaky bridge, which is part of the main Penzance to Paddington line. In a car, drive down to the road junction and follow around to the left to Camels Head dual carriageway with shaky bridge on the left. Keep in the left lane, but continue straight ahead at the traffic lights, then around to enter St Budeaux with the small button roundabout just past the petrol station. Continue straight ahead in the left hand lane, to turn left over the railway track opposite the shops.
If cycling, exit the bridge path and turn left onto the main road and up to the St Budeaux button roundabout, continue straight on in the left hand lane, to turn left across the railway track opposite the shops.

Variation 2. To view the Dockyard from the north. Once over the railway bride opposite St Budeaux shops. Over the bridge, turn left along Poole Park road, to follow the road around, which eventually overlooks the North end of the Dockyard and Naval Base. Return back the same way.

From the railway bridge opposite the shops, follow this road around to the right and then down the long, gentle slope for a long way which eventually veers to the right and brings the cyclist under the Tamar and Brunel Bridges.
The concrete ramp into the water is one of the many places where the Allies embarked for the Normandy invasion during the second world war and also for the old ferry.

In 1846, The Cornwall Railway Company received its act of Parliament to run a rail track between Plymouth and Falmouth. They hired the services of Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Originally a steam powered ferry was considered for crossing the River Tamar, but the Act required a bridge, which would allow the Naval ships to pass freely.
The first bridge considered was a seven span timber bridge, with six spans of 105 feet and one of 255 feet, up to 80 feet above the water. Unfortunately in the time of sail the Admiralty were not impressed. So the design was made for a pair of 300 foot spans , two hundred feet above the water. You guessed it, the Admiralty wanted just a single pier in the middle of the river and a specified height clearance. Brunel then considered an iron bridge with an eight hundred and fifty feet span ! but the costs would be too high at half a million pounds, when a pound was a lot of money. The final design is the dual span iron bridge, using a single central pier in the river. It was the pier which was the real problem, the rest may have been impossible to the rest of us, especially in 1846, but for Brunel, mere iron spans were everyday work. Because of the nature of the river, suspension supports were unlikely and the construction of such spans would need to be self supporting suspension designs, to be built nearby, floated into position then raised.
The central granite support in the centre of the river has to sit in the bedrock under the river, at a great depth and was an engineering tour de force. And so three massive piers were built, the middle of which stood deep in the river and needed an air tight sealed working area on the seabed to allow workers to carve the foundations. Many died from nitrogen bubbles in the blood due to rapid depressurisation. Today this is now known as the 'bends' and is a killer to this day for all divers. Brunel visited the river bed many times, but luckily survived.
Gradually the central pier grew above water, and during this time these enormous spans were being erected on the shoreline. These are phenomenally big and heavy items, yet they were gently floated out and slowly raised into position allowing the granite pillars to settle as they took the strain. The massive hydraulic jacks gradually raised these spans as single structures to where they rest today. Where there was just an open river valley, Brunel crafted these massive spans in the sky.

Directly under the bridges is a steep curving hill up to the right which will then exit near to the road level with the road bridge. The Tamar bridge has a cycle track to Saltash and on into Cornwall if required. Car users can park part way down this road, then walk back to view or walk across the bridge. Walk or cycle to the car park between bridges which has a fine view and also a stroll across the bridge for better views.

To return to the city centre from the shops at St Budeaux, either return back the way you came, or to follow the main traffic back to the city centre. The return route starts at the top of the hill near the bridges, then down the long, gentle sloping main road to St Budeaux. Continue straight ahead, past the housed island back the way you came, then continue straight ahead at the button roundabout.

To exit Plymouth easily by car, simply turn left just before shaky bridge at the traffic lights at Camels Head, turning north up the slip road to the main through route called the parkway. This takes to you directly to Cornwall or Exeter. There is also another escape route to the A38 beside Milehouse park. (Both marked in blue on the map.)
The direct route back to the city centre does not deviate left or right, past shaky bridge and straight ahead up a long, gentle hill curving to the left, with a hidden speed camera, then past the many shops with an excellent fish and chip shop on your right.
At the large roundabout between two petrol stations, the route is up the steep hill ahead, then straight on though the unusual junction, to pass along the west side of Central Park. (Keep the park to you left hand side.) Follow this down to Pennycomequick roundabout past the speed cameras then up the hill, under the painted main railway bridge. At the top of this hill, Plymouth City Centre can be seen at the top end of Armada Way.

Originally three villages of Devonport, Plymouth and Stonehouse, all based around seafaring, they gradually merged into the city of today. Devonport is described by its name, which became a Royal dockyard in the reign of Charles the First, and since then grew to cover the whole east side of Plymouth on the river Tamar. Today, this houses the 'warm' decommissioned nuclear submarines and the servicing of the ballistic missile submarine fleet. The surface fleet is also accommodated, retaining its extensive servicing capabilities, but with a greatly reduced workforce.
The civil side of the marine world is limited to the passenger ferry and small pleasure craft manufacture. Plymouth is nothing more than just another city, where a big casino is not welcome by many, but a fine city with a wonderful and historic sea front being sold off to 'developers'.
Please don't ruin Plymouth any further. The once historic Barbican is now a greater mess of expensive ghost apartments and locals hate this crap. Plymouth is rumoured to be run by Greeks and Freemasons who pull the councillors strings. Probably the councillors are getting backhanders for this level of disgrace.
So enjoy what you can while it still exists, unless you are a rich bastard and part of the problem. Will you also please stop flushing your crap overboard and polluting where we locals used to swim. I now get eye and throat infections from the crap from posh boats. It did not happen twenty years ago.
Plymouth, a once fine city, but now openly corrupt. Scum floats to the top, in the harbours and council chamber.

Other pictures of interest. (Not on website.)
Plymouth Hoe and Jennycliffe from Mount Edgecumbe.
Smeatons tower and Marine Biological Labs.
Citadel.
Citadel.
Jennycliff.
Mountbatten.
Mayflower Steps.
The old Southern Railway offices on the Barbican.
Leading up to the Elizebethan house.
Plymouth Gin distillery.
Down through the Barbican
Bovisands, I often swim here.

(For a copy of this an 200 other walks in the area, with 3000+ photos and illustrations and plans. email for details of the Classic Walks on Dartmoor CD, for just ten pounds including worldwide postage.)

Email jhpart@btinternet.com

2007: This page will soon be dropped as there is no feedback. A guide to crap Plymouth, Mackay, and the redevelopment rape will replace it.

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Version 1s. Copyright (C) J.Partridge. 2003 2007.