Cyprus - November 2002

Visiting the Republic of Cyprus allowed me to visit the southern side for the first time since I lived here from June 1964 to June 1967 whilst my parents were on tour with the RAF. As a very young child I cannot remember a great deal, but I do have some specific memories of places that I wanted to visit again.

My base for the week was the Phaeton Beach Club Hotel on the outskirts of Paphos in the southwest of the island. The hotel had good facilities and a busy programme for the guests. The majority of guests were all-inclusive and the restaurant had a wide variety of dishes coving all tastes to a good quality.

• Sat 2nd Nov - flight from Luton to Paphos.
• Sun 3rd - Thompson Holidays welcome party. Indoor/outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna
• Mon 4th - 4wd on road/off road trip to Troodos Mountains
• Tue 5th - Paphos town/market. Lazed around the pool
• Wed 6th - Fig Tree Bay, Ayios Nicolaos
• Thu 7th - Kokkina, Kato Pyrgos, Aphrodite's Rock
• Fri 8th - Episkopi, Akrotiri, beach, Theo's restaurant
• Sat 9th - jet ski, swim, return flight home

Fig Tree Bay

As a child I remember being on an organised daylong boat trip from Famagusta to Fig Tree Bay. The boat was a "Z craft" troop landing boat. It carried a large rock which was pushed off the boat whilst out at sea. When the boat moored in the bay we had a bar-b-cue and I swam in the clear blue sea on a lovely beach. Around the beach I remember a wooded area with a round shape restaurant with a fire/wood stove in the middle. Today Fig Tree Bay is one of the beaches in the resort of Protaras about 20 minutes drive from a then quiet fishing village of Agia Napa. Protaras today has many tourist shops, restaurants and even a MacDonald's. I spoke to the owner of Fig Tree Bay restaurant and ask him about the mid-60's. He remembers only two restaurants, one that he owns today and the other which was demolished in the early 1990's, I guess to make way for one of the many hotels.

Famagusta

Whilst in the area a visit to the southern outskirts allows a view of the "Green Line" - a UN controlled no-mans land between the Greek owned Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish occupied North. The UN spends around £25m each maintaining this line. Famagusta is of particular interest because of the "ghost town" area that has been cordoned off since the Turkish invasion in 1974 and is not accessible by the public. A few buildings on the edge allow tourists to view into the area.

Ayios Nikolaos

Driving along the road it soon turned into the SBA (Sovereign Base Area). Negotiating a few bollards I soon found I was by the police station and decided to call in to ask directions for the road I used to live in. I saw it clearly on the street map and they said it was OK to drive around the accommodation area but not into the main camp. Although I did not recall the detail of the bungalow it was exactly as the old photograph I had of me sitting on the front steps. I was pleased I had found the house. The return journey led along a road that appeared to be in the middle of the Green Line. To the right were the lookout posts with the Turkish flag flying. To the left the UN guards and flag. Further to the left I saw Greek flags and guards. It seemed strange to see the occasional road leading to the Turkish side lying unused for so many years with the road blocked with barbed wire and wooden road blocks.

Episkopi

I have more vivid memories of the Episkopi house than Ayios Nikolaos. I called into the police station and was again able to find the road and house marked. The policeman said I had to go to the RMP (Royal Military Police) office to enquire about access. Unfortunately I was told by the RMP that I would need to find a high ranking sponsor in advance of my visit and as a civilian, could not be granted a day pass to within the camp. Whilst in the area I also took the opportunity to find the schools were I went, drive through Episkopi village and along the peninsular to Akrotiri seeing the RAF radio station and the entrance to the RAF airfield.

Aphrodites Rock

I don't really recall this as a child but I have a photograph to prove I was there. The location was still the same as it had not been commercially spoilt with restaurants and souvenir shops like many other places on the island. The story goes that swimming around the rock will give eternal youth. The cool weather and fresh breeze got the better of me and I decided to save the swim for another day.

Troodos Mountains

As a young boy, all I can remember was going to the Troodos mountains to go skiing but being very upset because my feet were one size to small to fit the ski boots that were for hire. On this visit I took a 4WD jeep safari with the guide taking us to various places of interest with numerous stops. The day out was well worth it.

North Cyprus

Previously I had visited the north and also took the opportunity to visit a few places that I went to as a child. I either remember them myself or through photos that my parents had explained to me. Places included Kyrenia, Bellapes Abbey, Salimos and a drive to the end of the pan handle.