Serial no. 1306xxx

My F3 is an early model which I estimate to have been made around 1981, based on the fact that the serial numbers started with 1200000 in 1980 when the F3 was introduced. Despite its age (twenty-six years and counting...) it functions flawlessly and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. Clearly it had only had fairly light use before I bought it in 1997, although there were a few grubby patches which I was able to clean off and a dead, squashed insect under the multiple exposure lever! Also, one of the flash contacts was a bit corroded at the surface; this corrosion was removed using an abrasive "pen" designed to clean battery contacts, etc. and has shown no sign of returning.

The F3 is strong and very solid without feeling too heavy. Its moulded handgrip allows it to sit very comfortably in the hands, minimising the possibility of slippage. Due to the winding mechanism having ball bearings, it is the smoothest I have ever encountered; there is a definite "clack" when the wind-on is complete which can be felt as well as heard. The shutter release is very positive with no danger of accidental tripping through activating the meter with a light press. I sometimes feel that the release button is a little too far towards the back of the body, but this is a very minor criticism.

A real criticism, however, is the small red button used to illuminate the LCD and ADR (Aperture Direct Readout). The design of this button is terrible as it needs to be pressed very hard with a fingernail for it to work and even then the light can flicker. It has no positive feel in that it hardly moves when pressed. This isn't a fault with the button on my particular F3 as I have tried others - and read other people's comments on it. I don't see why Nikon designed it this way and feel that it would be much better to have a button with more positive action such as the exposure lock button. Speaking of which, this button, on the front of the body within the manual shutter release lever, is very well positioned for the middle finger and allows a very quick exposure lock to be made without removing the eye from the finder. The manual shutter release lever itself must be flicked to the right in order to be in position for operation; a gentle press downwards then activates the shutter at a mechanical 1/60 second (approximately, according to the manual) which is useful in the case of battery failure. Directly above is the depth of field (stop-down) button and mirror lock-up lever. The former must be pushed in fully and held whilst rotating the latter in order to lock the mirror up; easily accomplished with the second and first fingers respectively.

The viewfinder is bright and clear with an LCD at the top left and the ADR at the top centre. I have recently read reports of the LCD having a limited life of around 8 - 10 years, even with little use. Apparently, all the segments begin to darken, making reading shutter speeds, etc. virtually impossible. I've seen no evidence of this so I'm not sure whether it will eventually affect all displays or whether it is a problem with just a few. I have replaced the K screen with the E screen as I often found the focus aids of the K screen a hindrance rather than a help. I'm able to get consistently sharp results and the finely etched lines of the E screen aid composition. I used to have a correction lens of -2D as I'm a bit short sighted but didn't wear glasses all the time. Now that I do more often than not, because my astigmatism has got a bit worse, I have put the standard eyepiece back on. With glasses, I can just about see the entire frame without moving my eye around the eyepiece, even though this isn't the HP finder.

I am still astounded at the accuracy of the F3's meter. Using slide film, the real test for any exposure system, just about every frame is spot-on. The F3's meter pattern is heavily weighted towards the centre of the frame (80 % within the centre 12 mm circle, as opposed to the usual 60 % of many centre-weighted systems) meaning that it functions as a cross between a "conventional" centre-weighted and a spot meter. The same will be true with TTL flash as the same meter cell is used; it measures from the film surface with flash, rather than from the secondary mirror (behind the main mirror).

The F3 has its own type of flashgun shoe which is quite different to the standard ISO shoe. It is on the left hand side with the film rewind and film speed setting dial. This was Nikon's first attempt at TTL flash and it does work very well. Modern TTL flash systems have both the metering cell(s) and the controlling circuitry within the camera; the camera tells the flash when to shut off as correct exposure is achieved. The F3 has only the cell, with the necessary controlling circuitry within the flashgun (eg., SB12, SB16A and SB17). The flashgun uses the F3's cell to measure reflectance from the film surface and decides for itself when it should shut off. Nikon have recently introduced the AS-17 adaptor which allows the use of an ISO shoe flashgun (eg., SB25) with the F3 and still have TTL (it has always been possible to mount an ISO shoe flashgun using the AS-4 adaptor but TTL is not possible). The function of the AS-17 is to provide the controlling circuitry which the ISO TTL flashguns assume is within the camera body.

In short, the F3 is small, very strong and a joy to use. It feels as though it will go on forever. I believe Nikon ceased production of the F3 in 2001 - *twenty-one* years after introduction! The longevity of F3 production speaks for itself.


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