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KINGSMERE CRAFTS
HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS
Moccasins - continued
Make all the stitch holes while the leather is flat, it's a lot easier. You need one lot to attach the soles to the uppers, another for the back seams of the uppers and again to join the uppers to the tongues.
When attaching the soles to the uppers use the grain side on the bottom, burnish the edges and cut a groove all round about ³/16" from the edge, to take the saddle stitching. Glue each sole to the underside of the upper it belongs to. Put evenly spaced stitch holes along the sole grooves through all thicknesses, then using waxed thread and harness needles, saddle stitch soles and uppers together as in Fig 6.
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For the back seams butt the edges together using a cross-stitch. Then the heel tabs, Fig 7. Make the same number of stitch holes in the moccasin back and the heel tab. While saddle-stitching is a bit tricky here, make the effort, gathering the heel tab slightly so that it curls up to meet the back.
For the toe and tongue seam the best way of attaching the gathered part of the toe is to make about 18 triple sets of holes between XX and 18 single holes between YY. The toe is then gathered between XX leaving the middle hole of each set of three unthreaded.
When the gathering thread is pulled tight the unthreaded holes line up opposite the holes in the tongue preparatory to being oversewn. There are the same number of holes between XZ and YZ. Figure 8 shows what I'm talking about. Observe that the oversewing stops at AB and continues to Z as saddle-stitching as in Fig 9.
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To hold the top of the moccasin around the foot thread lengths of thonging through the top of the turned down flaps, making the thong pliable first, and that the part of the thong appearing on the inside is kept to the shortest length possible to prevent them rubbing your ankle.
Decoration can be added using beading, braiding, fringes or whatever takes your fancy but my own preference is to leave them unadorned.
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