KINGSMERE CRAFTS

HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS

Tack cleaning and maintenance

The leather used for tack and saddles is a wonderful product. It can last for many years, with some care and maintenance. It has to be cleaned regularly and occasionally conditioned. This prevents mould, mildew, dry-out, and cracking which can make your tack fail and possibly injure horse or rider. Many barns/stables are damp, musty, and warm, making mould a great threat to leather. Mould is spread by airborne spores that attach themselves to sticky surfaces. It will spread. You must remember that leather is an organic, natural product, and can decompose. Mould feeds on organic residues, such as oil, sweat and saliva on the leather surface. It then breaks down the protein bonds between the fibres thus weakening the leather. If this happens it is irreversible and the item will need to be replaced. Another problem following a mould attack is mildew, which is recognisable by its odour.

Tack needs to be maintained religiously. Synthetic tack can be hosed down or put in the washing machine. It's lighter in weight, easy to care for, and less expensive than leather. Leather needs much more care. Inspect it carefully every time you clean it. Wash it every time you use it. Oil the leather parts several times a year.

Leather softener	Glycerine saddle soap	Leather dressing	Neatsfoot oil	Saddle & harness polish

Until recently leather, and only leather, was used. But today, just about every piece of horse equipment available in leather is also offered in a synthetic material, including saddles, bridles, halters, and breast collars. But keep in mind that it is considered in poor taste at many horse shows to use synthetic tack.

All tack needs to be stored. You should buy a tack box, with compartments for all the stuff. Or you can keep your tack in the corner of the barn or in the horse trailer. Just be sure the place you choose is out of the elements.

Leather needs to be kept in breathable, warm, dry conditions, and never ever stored in plastic bags.

A tack room should be clean, dry, and have its door closed to avoid mould spores entering from any damp areas of the barn/stable. Avoid, if possible, having windows where entering sunlight can raise the temperature higher than is good for the leather.

If there is any cracking in leather it will only get deeper and deeper, eventually breaking, sooner rather than later. This can endanger both horse and rider. Preventative methods that keep your tack in good condition will avoid this.

Leather care products

There are three categories of leather care products: soaps and cleaners, conditioners, and a combination of the two.

Soaps and cleaners:- Natural oils in new leather and those added to maintain strength and suppleness attract dirt, mould and mildew. Dirt works its way into the leather and abrades the fibres causing it to crack. A leather cleaner will remove both dirt and oils, but it has to be specifically for leather because of its organic composition.

Household cleaners will dry out and damage leather.

The chief purpose of a leather cleaner is to remove the salts, sweat and dirt accumulated from riding. Use neutral pH-balanced leather cleaner. A pH of 7 is considered to be neutral.

Lower than that it’s acidic and higher still alkaline, so try to avoid using these levels and stick with neutral.

Saddle soap is one of the oldest and most basic of cleaners, having additives such as glycerine and moisturisers. It is also widely misunderstood and misused. It was originally used to carry oils and conditioning agents into leather during tanning. It was called soap because it was basically a fat liquor and it pushed the tanning agents into the leather. So it is mainly a conditioner, and not a cleaner, though rubbing it onto a saddle will remove surface dirt. So, when using saddle soap or any leather cleaner, make sure you rinse off all the residue and wipe dry before using any conditioner.

Conditioners:- These lubricate the fibres and help prevent cracking and splitting. Recently companies have come up with sophisticated conditioners as alternatives to the old standbys of Neatsfoot oil, mink oil, lanolin and other natural oils that can darken leather each time you use them. Though they are certainly the best for softening and preserving leather if not over-used. Synthetic conditioners such as Lexol are like a mayonnaise-type fat liquor as they bond with the fibres and are absorbed. They do not darken the leather or change its colour.

But Neatsfoot oil, mink oil and lanolin are best for softening and preserving leather if not over used. One thing to remember when conditioning is to not to overdo it.

"Neat" is an archaic name for hoofed animals (i.e. cows, pigs, sheep). Neatsfoot oil is oil rendered from the feet of cattle or hoofed animals. In the slaughterhouse, the feet would be cut off the animal, split, put into a large vat and boiled. The oils that rose to the top would be skimmed off and sold as "Neatsfoot Oil." Today, thanks to the US military, there is no actual Neatsfoot oil in Neatsfoot Oil!

Back in the 1930s the US Army wrote a Military Specification that defined the properties of Neatsfoot Oil. Merchants bidding for government contracts quickly discovered other, less expensive, oils would meet their specification. Today, Neatsfoot Oil is any oil, regardless of where it comes from, that meets this US Government Military Specification. Neatsfoot Oil now is mostly derived from pigs. Lard is pressed and the resulting liquid, which can be supplemented with mineral oil and/or reclaimed motor oil, is sold as "Neatsfoot Oil."

More is not generally better, with conditioning. Think of your leather as a sponge, it can only absorb so much. Should you use too much conditioner and find it getting on your clothes just wash it off with leather cleaner. That will remove the excess. Leather needs to be cleaned more than conditioned.

Combination products:- There are many products on the market for leather care but you can’t pick one out and say it’s the best for all leathers. The two basic types of leather are vegetable-tanned and chrome-tanned. Vegetable-tanned is used mainly in Western saddles. Chrome-tanned more so for English saddles.

Once mould and mildew spores get into leather fibres, it is almost impossible to totally destroy them without destroying the leather too. Inhibiting their growth involves painstaking care using the right products. If mould and mildew invade your tack room, take these steps to limit its damage:
Remove mouldy leather from the tack room and clean it out doors. You'll avoid filling the air in the tack room with mould spores that will simply contaminate other items within the confined space.

Have a supply of old rags that you're willing to throw away. Begin by wiping off any surface mould with a wet rag, capturing as much of the mould as you can in the process. Then throw the rag away. Don't rinse and re-use your rags. That only spreads the mould spores. Use an old toothbrush for cleaning lines of stitching and crevices.

Leather needs to be stored in breathable, warm, dry conditions, and never put in plastic bags.

A tack room should be clean and dry, with its door closed, to avoid mould spores entering from any damp areas of the building. Try to avoid having windows where entering sunlight can raise the temperature higher than is good for the leather.

Natural oils like Neatsfoot are good for vegetable-tanned leather but for chrome-tanned it is better to use Lexol.

Some general information

The Girth (English)/Cinches (Western):- There are four main types of girths that can be used, most all still being used to the present day:

• webbing
• leather
• string
• nylon

Like wearing a belt with braces two webbing girths used to be used as a safety measure in case one broke, but since webbing girths tend to rot and are hard to keep clean, you don't see them often today.

Nylon is a good general-purpose girth and is easily cleaned.

String girths also work pretty well and are most useful on a unclipped horse.

Leather girths of course are much preferred since they are strong. They are easy to clean with saddle soap, but do need oiling from time to time.

Many riders use a sheepskin or padded sleeve around the girth as extra protection against chafing or "girth galls".

The Bridle:- The entire headpiece, the headstall, bit, chin strap, and reins, is called the bridle.

The bridle enables a rider to control the horse by applying pressure to the corners of the mouth, the gum in front of the teeth (called the bars), or the front of the nose.

There are three main types of bridles:

• single
• double
• hackamore

A hackamore bridle has no bit in the mouth, and just puts pressure on the nose, chin groove, and poll. It is used only by expert riders on problem horses, and is not intended for everyday riding.  The hackamore is a combination of a rope halter, a lead rope and reins.

Parts of a hackamore:- As hackamores come from Spanish culture, the name probably was derived from the Spanish as the word "hackamore" is an Anglicized version of the Spanish word "jaquima" — which, in turn, was derived from the Moorish word al-hakma. The major parts are:

Bosal (bo-sal). This part around the horse's nose is most commonly made of braided rawhide, but it can be made of leather, horsehair or rope. Diameter of the bosal can vary from pencil size to broom handle size, and the bosal may vary in length and rigidity. A bosal may have a cable or rawhide core, but rawhide is preferred to make it pliable and fit closely to the horse's nose. Parts of the bosal are the nose button and cheek buttons, cheeks or shanks, and the heel knot.

Mecate (meh-kah-teh). This is a continuous horsehair rope that is wrapped around the cheeks of the bosal in a manner to provide both reins and lead line. Other types of rope are frequently substituted for the mecate but are used in the same manner.

Fiador (fee-ah-door). A fiador is a rope throat latch that usually consists of a doubled rope that is passed around the neck just behind the ears and is attached to the bosal at the heel knot. It helps keep the bosal at right angles to the face of the horse.

Reins. These are necessary when a mecate is not used. They may be made from various kinds of rope or leather. Most rope reins are braided and made from soft rope to assure a good grip by the rider.

Headstall and browband. These complete the hackamore and usually are made of leather, however, small ropes or cords are also used. The headstall should be adjusted to raise or lower the bosal on the horse's nose. Browbands are added to prevent the headstall from slipping back on the neck.

A horse cannot breathe through its mouth so careful use of gentle giving hands is a necessity with a hackamore. 

How to measure your horse for a halter/hackamore. Using a soft tape, measure from the line between the lips to the poll, passing between the eyes and ears. Then measure with the same tape around the nose where the band which holds the reins and lead rope is. One more measurement, all the way around from the poll under the throat latch and back to the poll. Along with these three measurements, include the height of your horse in hands or centimetres/inches (at the withers). These four lengths will help provide you with a well fitting halter. If your horse is mature and 16 hands (165 cm) or under, a standard halter will probably fit fine.

The illustration below, on the left, shows the parts of the snaffle bridle. The snaffle bridle is a basic bridle which is good for all types of riding. It is also the most appropriate one for horses in the early stages of training. The noseband is not essential. By changing the bit, or the noseband, the action of this bridle can be altered, so that you have more control over the horse and the way he carries his head.

The illustration below, on the right, indicates the parts of the double bridle. It is basically the same design as the snaffle bridle, although the addition of the bridoon sliphead means that two bits can be used along with two sets of reins. This bridle should only be fitted with one noseband, the basic cavesson, so that the action of the curb bit isn't interfered with.

The cavesson is the simplest design available. It's the only type of noseband to use with a double bridle. It can also be used with a standing martingale with little or no action, when fitted correctly, on the horse's head.

Only experienced riders should use a double bridle, which are used in showing and dressage, and can give a rider more precise control. They should not be used on a horse or pony until the animal is used to a bit and snaffle.

There are numerous varieties of Western bridles, and many very stylish ones. A Western bridle has the same parts except for a noseband and its reins are not attached.

How put a bridle on a horse (see photos 1-6 below)
Horses need bridles, so that when you ride them, you can control them efficiently.
1. Stand on the near side of the horse, holding the crownpiece in your right hand. Place your other hand, holding the bit, under its muzzle.
2. Press your thumb against the bars of the horse's mouth to encourage him to open it.
3. Guide the bit into the horse's mouth. Draw the bridle up with the right hand using the left hand to guide the crownpiece over his ears.
4. Separate the mane from the headpiece and bring the forelock over the browband.
5. Fasten the throatlatch. It should be loose enough to flatly fit four fingers between it and the cheeks.
6. Fasten the noseband. It should be loose enough to allow you to flatly place two fingers underneath it.

1	2	3	4	5	6

The Bit:- The bit should fit snugly into the corners of the lips, normally making one wrinkle, but do check how it lies inside the horse’s mouth. If you pull down lightly on the bit cheeks, then, between the mouthpiece and the corners of the lips, there should not be more than a ¹/8" gap. If the cheek pieces bow out, this is a sign that the bit is too low.

Check the width, ensuring the bit is both level and central in the horse’s mouth, showing between ¹/8" and ¼" gap between the bit ring and the horse’s lip on each side. (You may have to straighten the mouthpiece with a jointed bit by pulling the cheeks gently outwards to assess this properly.)

If the bit is too wide, it will slide from side to side in the mouth giving uneven pressure when engaged by the rider. An overly-wide jointed bit could hang too low in the mouth and interfere with the horse’s incisors.

If the bit is too narrow, the cheeks will squash against the sides of the horse’s face and lips, with subsequent rubbing or pinching.

Using a piece of smooth round wood, e.g. a wooden spoon handle or piece of dowling rod, and two rein stops (rubber bands can be used but are slightly less accurate) put it into your horse's mouth, so that it just lifts the corners of his lips into no more than 2 wrinkles, and push the rein stops up to touch his lips on either side. Now remove the wood, and measure the gap from the outside of the rein stops. This gives the correct bit size, including the right amount of clearance, for the bit. If you are between sizes (e.g. 5 ¼"), choose the smaller of the two bits (e.g. 5")

Although forged steel is usually used bits can be made out of many different materials such as plated steel or nickel. Plated steel may chip, and the softer metals, such as nickel, seem to wear quickly and can cut the mouth. Rubber or vulcanite bits are softer than steel.

The snaffle is the most common type of bit and there are many varieties. Unless very fine control is needed most horses are ridden with a type of snaffle bit.

The usual snaffle is jointed with rings that exert leverage on the sides of the mouth. A egg-butt snaffle, with a hinged-ring fixed to the joint, is used to overcome the problem of pinching the corners of the mouth.

Some snaffles have straight bars, instead of joints, and can have many different thicknesses and shapes.

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