From: Subject: Sim Racing News - GP2 setup guide Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:14:26 +0100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1D966.00BD92C0"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1D966.00BD92C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://eaglewoman.simracing.dk/sims/gp2-jw.htm Sim Racing News - GP2 setup guide

 

The fine = art of racecar=20 setup

How many people recall watching Formula One = back in the=20 early 80s, those halcyon days of wide tyres, turbo's and power = levels=20 almost unimaginable now? One of my enduring memories of those days = is not=20 of Piquet, Pironi or Villeneuve, but of Niki Lauda. Although = lacking the=20 glamour and excitement of the younger drivers, Niki's talents came = not=20 from passion but from knowledge and experience. Friday and = Saturday=20 qualifying would unfold as a dogfight between all of the young = guys, but=20 come race day a different picture would emerge. Niki Lauda, = starting from=20 12th on the grid and having been off the pace and out of my = thoughts all=20 weekend, would almost mesmerically work his way, apparently = effortlessly,=20 past the entire field to win. Watching this display (for there's = no other=20 word for it), you somehow had the feeling that he was in possesion = of=20 information the others didn't have.

There's no doubt that Lauda's driving skills = were from=20 the absolute top drawer of motorsport, but so was the driving of = many=20 other drivers on the grid alongside him. Whilst driving style and=20 experience play a large part in a driver's overall performance, a = further=20 component of that speed is simply confidence. Confidence of this = type=20 comes at least in part from having a very good setup. Not only = will a good=20 setup be smoother (=3Dfaster) around the circuit, but the very=20 predictability of the car when using that setup will further = inspire=20 confidence to force the car toward the edge of its capability, and = to=20 drive it there for lap after lap. Naturally this can only be good = for your=20 lap times.

So why am I telling you all this stuff about = the real=20 world of Formula One? Well, whatever else GP2 may have achieved, = one thing=20 which is irrefutable is that it has taken sim-racing giant strides = closer=20 to the real world as far as setup is concerned. In writing this = article=20 Sim Racing News has gratefully accepted the assistance and = expertise of=20 Doug Arnao, not only one of the fastest guys on CompuServe in = ICR2, GP2,=20 NASCAR and on Hawaii, but also someone whose day job involves = developing,=20 setting up and testing race cars (do I hear "lucky sod" from = anyone?!).=20 Doug's experience in this field not only helps his job, but it = also helps=20 greatly in GP2 since GP2's setup affects the car in exactly the = way it=20 affects a real car. So next time you're watching F1 on TV, see if = you can=20 get Schumacher's setup captured on video!!

When compared to F1GP, in GP2 no longer is car = "balance"=20 determined simply by the ratio of front:rear wing compared to = driving=20 style, but springs, fast bump and rebound, slow bump and rebound,=20 anti-roll bars, ride height and packers all play a part. Not only = that,=20 but they all affect each other! Ahhhhhhh!!! Everything you do is a = compromise, balancing the gains from one part against the losses = from=20 another. Softening the rear may mean more grip and traction, but = it also=20 means less steering response and more understeer - which is best = in each=20 case?

That is the purpose of this article, and we'll = try to=20 explain at least one method of determining a setup from scratch = from first=20 arriving at a circuit until turning those hotlaps. There are many = ways to=20 create a setup, and this is not the bible of all that is true - it = is=20 simply one way that works, and a starting point from which to make = your=20 own setups and discuss with people to develop more and better = adjustments.=20 So, your plane has landed, the car has been unpacked and loaded = onto the=20 transporter, and you're driving through the gates of the circuit - = what=20 now?

Use your = head
The first thing you need to do is to use your head. = That=20 doesn't only mean get the mechanics unpacking and cleaning = everything=20 while you sit around, it also means think your way around = the=20 track. If you can see the track is obviously a particular = type, it=20 saves a lot of time spent testing different settings. Wing = settings are=20 the most basic adjusrment of all, as they determine straight line = speed=20 and to some extent the cornering speeds. Looking at Monza and at=20 Hockenheim, there is no doubt that they are extremely low = downforce=20 circuits. There is no point in testing a variety of wing settings, = it=20 simply isn't worth it. On the contrary, TI-Aida (Pacific) and = Monaco are=20 where you need high downforce, and running with a rear wing = of "1"=20 would be time better spent in the pub. The tricky ones are = Silverstone,=20 Estoril, even Suzuka, where low downforce will lose you as much = through=20 the turns as it gains on the straights, and conversely high = downforce will=20 lose on the straight and gain in the turns. Only testing can split = the=20 second or even tenth of a second to determine which is best, and = which is=20 best for you. Opinions vary on exactly how to setup a car, some = people=20 advocate setting the wings first out of all the adjustments, and = this is=20 recommended by none other than "The Professor", Alain Prost. I = personally=20 favour adjusting the car mechanically first of all, tuning it for = the slow=20 corners on the track where the aerodynamics aren't playing much of = a role,=20 then working on aerodynamics, adjusting the fast corners, and = finally=20 retuning the mechanical aspects based upon the changes to the=20 aerodynamics. This was an approach from Senna's excellent book = "Principles=20 of Race Driving", and one which has worked very well for me. How = you=20 proceed is up to you of course. What is sure is that there is no = "right"=20 way, only what is most efficient and effective for you.

Your first=20 time...
As with many "first = times", it is=20 likely to be an experience to remember, so try and take it easy or = it will=20 all be over too soon . Put the wing settings onto your car = which=20 you feel will work best (from "using your head"), and set your = dampers as=20 below until you can begin "fine-tuning" - many thanks to Doug = Arnao for=20 these initial settings. These will give a "quick" feel to the = chassis but=20 without inducing car-wrecking oversteer on entry. = 

                              =
Slow     Fast
                Front Bump         10        =
00
                Front Rebound      15        =
02
                Rear Bump          07        =
00
                Rear Rebound       12        =
02

Now, load up 20 laps of fuel and head out onto = the track.=20 Take it easy here, learning the circuit, learning the braking = points,=20 where you can push and where you can't. DO NOT try to push hard = and=20 constantly spin off, that way will only mean this phase will take = longer=20 and you will most likely get frustrated. You are not going to do a = hotlap=20 in your first laps, so forget the times you've seen on the WWW, = and even=20 if you're several seconds off that pace you shouldn't be = concerned. The=20 time will come, but only if you work at it correctly. I personally = try to=20 slowly build up speed and then to concentrate on two corners only = during=20 the lap, learning what I can do at them. Once I have those right, = choose=20 another two. Eventually the whole lap will be reasonably quick and = you can=20 start chipping away the tenths.

On these laps you should be first of all = learning the=20 track, and once you are reasonably proficient with the tracks = cornering=20 and braking points, start gently pushing the car toward the = limits, and=20 very carefully watching what it does. Especially by gentle = application or=20 reduction of the throttle in mid-corner, you can begin to feel = what the=20 car wants to do. Below we will describe each element of the setup, = so=20 mentally (or on paper) record those problems, and search for = solutions in=20 the adjustments below. Pay particular attention to :-

  • Car response when entering a corner (tend to = spin, go=20 where you want, or push wide?)=20
  • Car response during a corner?=20
  • Car response exiting a corner?=20
  • Car response under braking, want to spin or = doesn't=20 want to turn?=20
  • Is the plank constantly dragging on the = ground?=20
  • Is there excessive wheelspin exiting a = corner?=20
  • Is sixth gear reached, and does it redline = (final rev=20 light on) for long periods?

During these laps, we also encounter one of the = perennial=20 problems of setting up a racecar, "cause and effect". When you = encounter=20 some difficulty, it is extremely important to think about if the=20 car is causing the problem, or if maybe it is your = driving=20 that is causing the problem. If you brake early for a corner = (through not=20 knowing the track) and turn-in too early, it's natural that the = car will=20 understeer because you will get back on the power too soon and = push the=20 front out toward the exit kerb. In this case you may go into the = garage=20 and dial in more oversteer, but that would be the WRONG thing to = do, and=20 would take your setup down a wrong path. Similarly braking too = late can=20 lead you to turn-in sharply with a high steering angle, and = getting on the=20 power again will cause you to oversteer, slide or spin. The car = may well=20 have a problem with oversteer, but you can't decide based upon = this. When=20 you encounter a problem lap-after-lap, think carefully about = whether you=20 are causing it by imprecise driving, or if it really is a symptom = of=20 something wrong with the car.

Okay, let's return to the garage and look in = detail at=20 the setup.


In the garage - the=20 basics

The = wings
The wings are the most fundamental part of the car, = and are=20 used firstly to set the top speed and maximum cornering speed = (rear wing),=20 and secondly to adjust the "balance" of the car, oversteer or = understeer=20 (front wing). It is however possible to setup the wings for = oversteer, but=20 use the dampers and springs to turn it into understeer. However, = not only=20 will this increase tyre wear (as the tyres must work harder to = keep the=20 rear end in place against the push of the aerodynamics), but it = will make=20 for a very unpredictable car, one which will not retain a balance = all the=20 way from low speed to high speed. A setup is something you = gradually hone=20 over time, and once you take your setup down that road and find = problems,=20 it's very difficult to backtrack and recover it.

The orthodox method of wing adjustments is to = firstly=20 select your rear wing setting, and then set your front wing to = balance the=20 car as you like it. I personally prefer a front wing set at = least=20 three or four notches higher than the rear (and often more), but = others=20 prefer the front set LOWER than the rear to induce understeer = (although=20 this is not to be recommended. If understeer is your aim then find = a=20 neutral balance with the wings, springs and roll bars, and dial-in = a=20 little understeer with the dampers). Choose a setting, go out and = test and=20 then make adjustments to the front wing until it's balanced. Don't = worry=20 that your rear wing may not be correct, you will try a variety of = settings=20 until you find the best one! Another method of of setting the wing = is to=20 choose the front wing setting which will get you around the = corners, and=20 then to progressively lower the rear wing until you can just = retain=20 control of the car. This method is primarily of benefit in = hotlapping,=20 where many drivers slide the car through a corner on severe = understeer=20 (thus the rear doesn't spin as easily as it would with a normal = entry=20 style). A hotlap setup is just what it says, designed to run one = lap at=20 the maximum possible speed, and generally they are not very stable = and=20 therefore not so useful for race driving (and you wondered why = those=20 setups fron the internet felt difficult to drive?!). In a future = article=20 we will cover hotlap setups, but for now we will concentrate on = creating a=20 stable, drivable car, and teaching you HOW the changes work, then = you can=20 begin experimenting for yourself.

Finding the right=20 gear
Apparently straightforward, = but=20 actually gearing is a very fine art. Many people simply set the = gears=20 between first and sixth in equal spaces, around 5-8 steps from = gear to=20 gear. However, as ever, THINK what your engine is doing. In first = gear the=20 revs rise incredibly quickly, whereas in fifth and sixth the revs = rise=20 slowly. By using a large gap between first and second, and a small = gap=20 between fifth and sixth, you can keep the engine more tightly in = the=20 "power band" in the higher gears, which don't have so much = capability for=20 acceleration. Not only that, but you will have more time between = gear=20 changes in the lower gears which means the engine is powering the = wheels=20 for a greater time (assuming the greater time available leads to = better=20 timed and smoother gearchanges), and you can more accurately = remain in the=20 "power band", the area where your engine produces the most power. = Whenever=20 you change gear your speed will drop by 3-4km/h due to the loss of = drive=20 to the wheels, and it's important that your gearshift drops you = back in=20 the power band so that you may regain the impetus as soon as = possible.=20 This is most apparent at Hockenheim and Monza, where a gap between = first=20 and second of TEN, and a gap between fifth and sixth of only FOUR = would=20 not be unusual. As ever, test and see what works best, as this is=20 dependent upon your style.

Sixth gear should be set, as described, to = redline just a=20 second or so before your braking point at the fastest part of the = circuit,=20 and your first gear should be a compromise between good = acceleration from=20 the slowest corner, the amount of wheelspin from the lowest = corner, and=20 the need to get away from the grid at the start. Lower means = better=20 acceleration (especially off the grid), but means "longer" gears=20 throughout the rest of the gearbox, more chance of wheelspin, and = more=20 chance of spinning the car. Higher means slower away from the grid = and the=20 slowest corner, but improved acceleration through the other gears, = and=20 less wheelspin. Wheelspin can also be controlled by softening the = rear=20 shocks, and/or low & high speed dampers. As ever, compromise, = test and=20 decide. Another approach proposed by Achim Trensz (top hotlapper, = author=20 of several of our track guides and all round nice guy!) is to set = first=20 gear quite high, in the range of 37-39. Whereas this would murder = the=20 clutch in a real car, in the sim it's perfectly possible and means = it is=20 easier to avoid unwanted wheelspin when driving, also allowing = higher=20 gears to be grouped more closely together. Again this is somewhat = of a=20 hotlapping approach since first gear need only get you away from = the=20 slowest corner - in a race first gear will also have to get you = off the=20 grid, and while such a high first gear will make it easy to avoid=20 wheelspin, it will probably not give you the acceleration = necessary to=20 make a good start. Try it and see what works for you.

For the gears in between, there are two = approaches. In=20 the old days of F1 they were chosen partly to give the best = acceleration,=20 but partly so that you never needed to change gear in mid-corner. = Not only=20 was it risky taking one hand from the wheel, but the action of=20 double-declutching and disconnecting the wheels from the engine = would lose=20 power and grip to the rear wheels. As you can imagine this upsets = the car=20 balance more than a little - very risky. Nowadays with = semi-automatic=20 gearboxes this is not an issue, but if you are using a T1 or = similar=20 controller where you need to remove your hands from the wheel, = consider=20 adjusting your gears so that you don't need to shift in = mid-corner. The=20 theory is that if you enter a corner in third and need to shift to = fourth=20 mid way through, try lowering your third and fourth gear. Then you = will be=20 already IN fourth gear when reaching the corner, and it will be = "long"=20 enough that you will only need to change to fifth after you have = already=20 exited that corner, and hopefully on the next straight. You could = also=20 make third gear "longer" (higher ratio) and hope that you could = remain in=20 third all the way through. If this isn't a problem for you, choose = the=20 ratios that give the best acceleration, wider gaps for the low = gears,=20 becoming closer as you go higher through the gearbox.

Balancing the=20 brakes
The next setup = "fundamental" is=20 regarding the brake balance. In a Formula One car at top speed, = the=20 downforce is literally crushing, so much so that at top speed you = can=20 press the brake pedal completely to the floor knowing it is = impossible to=20 lock the wheels. However, this phenomenal grip comes primarily = from=20 aerodynamic downforce and this in turn comes from speed. As your = speed=20 reduces under braking, so the car is pressed on the track less and = less=20 heavily, and consequently grip reduces rapidly. At a certain point = the=20 downforce will become so low that the braking force will exceed = the grip=20 of the tyres, and at this point your wheels will lockup, leading = to loss=20 of control, added tyre wear etc. To avoid this you need to do = exactly as=20 the real Formula One guys have to do - punch the brakes = hard at=20 first, and then easing off as downforce decreases. The closer you = can keep=20 your wheels to almost locking, the more effective your = braking will=20 be. A perfect example is Michael Schumacher - next time you are = watching=20 an F1 race, watch how often you will see just the suspicion of a = puff of=20 smoke from his inside front wheel when entering a corner. That is = because=20 he is allllllllmost locking up, but not quite (this is = different=20 from the Jean Alesi "it looks like my wheels are on fire" routine = - that=20 IS a lockup!). This demonstrates once more (if any demonstration = were=20 needed!) Schumacher's supreme driving talent. If you can glance in = your=20 mirrors as you come off the brakes and see just the briefest whiff = ot tyre=20 smoke, you're doing pretty well!

This is all well and good, but what does it = have to do=20 with brake balance? Well, generally the front and back of your car = will=20 have vastly different levels of grip since there will be different = levels=20 of wing front and rear, the wings are of different sizes, size of = the=20 tyres are different, wear level of the tyres are different etc = etc. This=20 generally means that your wheels will lock at different times. Not = only=20 that, but under braking the weight of the car will be pitched = violently=20 forward, so that the front wheels are supporting much more of the = car's=20 weight than the rear. This makes the rear of the car "light", = consequently=20 less downforce and more likely for the wheels to lock up. What YOU = need to=20 achieve is the front and rear wheels locking simultaneously. Why = you may=20 ask? Well, the reason are, from least to most = important...

  • Tyre wear. Consistently locking up one set = of tyres=20 before the other will give increased wear levels on those tyres, = and=20 will affect cornering balance later in the race (you will have = less grip=20 on the worn set than on the "fresher" set).=20
  • Braking distance. If one set is locking, = they are=20 unable to accept the braking forces applied to them. This means = too much=20 on one set, and not enough on the other. A more even balance = will spread=20 the braking force evenly, and shorten your braking = distance.=20
  • Loss of control. The two other reasons are a = nuisance,=20 this one is a REAL problem. As long as you're travelling in a = straight=20 line braking is fairly easy, with poor balance simply meaning a = longer=20 braking distance. However, let's try a little experiment. Set = your brake=20 balance as far back as it will go (rear bias) and then try = braking for=20 Suzuka's Casino Chicane - this is very heavy braking but not in = a=20 straight line, the braking is done on a mild curve and it is = vital that=20 you can steer. As soon as you hit the brakes, all of the braking = force=20 goes to the rear wheels, whereas the weight of the car goes = forward -=20 the rear of the car is light, and with little wing the rear = wheels=20 instantly lock. Since you're on a corner and the rear has no = grip to=20 turn it, it will travel straight on, and AT THE ORIGINAL SPEED. = The=20 front HASN'T locked up, and is slowing down and turning away = from the=20 rear. The result? The rear overtakes the front and you spin = straight off=20 the track (oversteer). The opposite is if the front wheels lock = up. In=20 this case you can no longer steer, and although the car may be = slowing=20 due to the effect of the rear tyres, most of the braking force = is going=20 to the locked front tyres and is therefore wasted. The front = pulls the=20 car straight off the circuit, since the front tyres have no grip = to turn=20 you into the corner (understeer).

You can feel this happening when testing, and = in the=20 practice sessions you must find the ideal balance for the race. = Remember=20 that not only does the TOTAL downforce change when you go from = high-speed=20 to low-speed, the RATIO of the downforce will change as you = slowdown too.=20 At high speed the rear will generally have more downforce (and = therefore=20 grip better and brake more easily), but it could be that at low = speed you=20 have more mechanical grip at the front. Due to this, your brake = balance=20 setting may work well at high speed but lock up the rears at low = speed. In=20 this case you must be guided generally by the clock and by your = own=20 driving preference. It is usually A BAD THING to have the rear = wheels=20 lock, and A GOOD THING to have the most efficient braking from = high speed=20 (rather than low speed), since this will help you complete = overtaking=20 opportunities. With these is mind make your adjustments, = preferably using=20 the section of track where you have to brake the heaviest = (Hockenheim's=20 OstKurve chicane, or Aida's Hairpin Corner). If the car wants to = spin=20 under braking, move the brake balance toward the front, and if it = refuses=20 to turn under braking try moving the balance to the rear. Remember = this=20 can also happen if you've locked ALL FOUR wheels. Review the = telemetry=20 traces and check the "wheelspin" graphs. If you see a sharp = downward spike=20 that denotes wheel locking. If front is first, brake balance = should go=20 slightly to the rear (remember, don't lock the rears first!), and = if the=20 rear is first brake balance should go to the front. if ALL FOUR = are locked=20 you are not easing off the brakes correctly. You can use full = brakes for a=20 fraction only before easing off, so practice to improve this area = of=20 driving.

In the garage -=20 Advanced

Now things are getting a little worrying. We've = clicked=20 on the "Advanced" button, chosen Level 2, andlo and behold, a = veritable=20 feast of options awaits us. Within this screen you have the = potential to=20 create an ill-handling monster of a car or the sweetest, smoothest = drive=20 imaginable. This is the nerve centre of a setup.

Springs
These are one of the more difficult items to set, = and depend=20 very much upon driving style and personal preference. For most = adjustable=20 items such as wings, ride height etc there are "right" settings, = and=20 whatever settings you choose will probably be fairly close to what = most=20 other people are running (provided they understand what they're = doing with=20 the setup!!). The springs on the other hand offer different = advantages and=20 disadvantages depending upon how they are set, and depending upon = how you=20 like your car to feel, you will prefer a different spring rate to = someone=20 else. The things to understand are :- 

Softer springs                           Harder =
springs
Higher level of grip                     Quicker, =
more responsive handling
Less tyre wear                           Possible =
to run lower car (more grip)

Higher ride height required              Lower grip =
from the tyres
Less responsive handling                 Greater =
tyre wear

Now let's take an example - = Monaco. Around=20 the tight streets of Monaco you need a car which reacts very = quickly to=20 steering inputs and will go exactly where you point it - that = means hard=20 springs. On the other hand, you need LOTS of grip, especially at = low speed=20 where the wings won't help so much - that means SOFT springs!! = Which is=20 faster for you? The tendency in GP2 is to set the front reasonably = stiff=20 (1,200lbs or more) and the back reasonably soft (800lbs or so). = However,=20 at some circuits an all stiff setup works best. If you are going = to use=20 the kerbs a lot you may need springs which are stiffer, especially = if the=20 kerbs are not "designed" to be used (some kerbs in GP2 have little = or no=20 influence on the car (Jerez T2), others have minimal effect = (Ostkurve=20 inner chicane) and yet others launch you into the air (you know = which=20 ones!)). For the kerbs designed to be used you don't need to worry = about=20 spring settings, but if you want to clatter through Casino Chicane = as fast=20 as possible, you'll need to stiffen up the car.

When considering the springs, = remember also=20 that the springs work in conjunction with almost every other item = on the=20 car, and changing the springs affects ride height (hence also = packers),=20 anti-roll bars, brake balance, damper settings - almost every = aspect of=20 car setup. For example, softening the front springs will cause the = car to=20 "dive" more under braking (the front springs compress, thus = lowering the=20 nose), and therefore ride height may need to be increased at the = front.=20 Also the weight grip will increase at the front (since the softer = springs=20 will increase grip, especially under braking) so the brake balance = may=20 need adjusted. Adjusting the springs can affect many other items = on your=20 setup, so think your way carefully through any adjustments you = want to=20 make.

Anti-Roll=20 Bars
Anti-roll = bars (ARBs)=20 are like "sideways springs". They transfer weight from one side of = the car=20 to the other, absorbing some of this and adjusting the speed of = the weight=20 transfer depending upon how stiffly they are set. In common with = springs,=20 softer ARBs means less responsive handling, less tyre wear and = increased=20 grip at that end of the car, and stiffer ARBs will give the = opposite, more=20 precise handling, more tyre wear and less grip. Since the ARBs do = not have=20 such an effect on other areas of the car setup as the springs, = they are=20 the main way to control the MECHANICAL balance of the car. If you = find the=20 car has a tendency to under or oversteer around a long corner, = play=20 firstly with the ARBs to try to cure it. In most race cars the = ARBs can be=20 adjusted from within the cockpit (as can the brake balance) which = is ideal=20 for adjusting the car balance during a race as the fuel load = decreases,=20 but GP2 doesn't offer this facility unfortunately.

To set your anti-roll bars, you = need to pick=20 a long constant speed corner at the circuit you are working on, = and use=20 that corner to make adjustments. The reason for choosing such a = corner is=20 that the dampers also have an influence on corner balance, but = they only=20 work while you are steering (during steering transients or weight=20 transfer). Similarly the springs will have their main effects = while=20 accelerating or braking. By working on a shorter corner or while=20 accelerating or braking, the dampers and springs will be dominant, = and=20 they will mask the effects of the ARBs to some extent. A corner = like=20 Magny-Cour's "Estoril" or part of the Beckets complex would be = ideal. If=20 you are always accelerating through the only suitable corner, = simply=20 maintain a constant throttle rather than accelerating, just to = test the=20 spring settings. 

Less =
understeer (more oversteer)    soften front or stiffen rear
Less oversteer (more understeer)    soften rear or =
stiffen front
more grip (less responsiveness)     soften front =
and rear
more responsiveness (less grip)     stiffen front =
and/or rear

Ride = height &=20 Packers
The = easiest thing to=20 set here is the ride height, although this is closely linked with = packers=20 and spring settings. In addition to the mechanical grip created by = the=20 tires and the aerodynamic grip of the wings, a Formula One car = generates=20 additional grip through the use of low pressure areas beneath the = car, and=20 the creative use of exhaust gases (warmer gas =3D lower pressure = =3D pressed=20 to the road from the high pressure cold air above). Generally "the = lower=20 the better" in terms of grip, but you must be careful of plank = wear since=20 the wooden plank which is below every car will ground if the ride = height=20 is too low. The ride height plays a part in overall car balance = too, since=20 lowering the car increases the downforce at that end of the car, = and thus=20 puts more load onto those wheels. Lowering front ride height will = slightly=20 increase front-end grip, creating oversteer in a balanced car or = curing=20 understeer, and the opposite if you decrease rear ride height. = Using the=20 method described below, adjust the car to the lowest possible ride = height=20 (maximising undercar downforce) and then fine-tune by increasing = either=20 the front or the rear just a little to maintain a neutral=20 balance.

First of all bear in mind that = the overall=20 aerodynamics of the car are designed to work with the rear of the = car=20 around 25mm higher than the front, so that's a target to aim for = in your=20 adjustments. From this starting point progressively lower the car, = all the=20 while maintaining around a 25mm differential. For a hotlap, = packers are=20 generally less useful - as long as the plank lasts for one hotlap = it=20 doesn't matter if it wears away. This may mean that you need to = run your=20 outlap at low speed on longer tracks (Spa, Suzuka, Hockenheim), = but that's=20 a small price to pay since using packers to save the plank may = compromise=20 your ultimate speed setup. However, on other tracks packers can = help,=20 especially the longer tracks where the plank could wear away = within only=20 one lap (!), or where you are running a VERY low car.

Now, let's bring the packers = into play.=20 These are most useful at circuits with very high top speeds, and = are=20 indispensable at places like Hockenheim. The ride height and = packers need=20 to be set AFTER the springs, since how low you can run the car = will depend=20 upon how much your springs are going to compress under the = downforce of=20 high speed. Your aim is "To run the car as LOW as possible = (maximising=20 undercar downforce), ensure the car is NEVER riding on the packers = through=20 any corner (at least not a corner where you require grip from that = tyre),=20 and have the settings so that the plank only occasionally = "flashes" when=20 reaching the highest speed. To do this requires a balance between = packers=20 and ride height.

First of all, set the ride = height. Lower the=20 ride height to 44mm rear, and 22mm front. Now increase by 1mm each = time,=20 and continue to raise until the plank DOESN'T flash yellow when = going=20 through the fastest corner on the track (make sure to test using = the fuel=20 load you are going to use in your race!). Having set the ride = height, now=20 you can add packers. Since you have set the plank so that it = doesn't touch=20 during the fastest corner, that means all the corners will be run = on the=20 springs. This is important as if the car is sitting on the packers = when=20 entering a corner it is the same as having all springs set to = fully stiff=20 - try it and see how difficult it is! You don't want that to = happen. With=20 the setting you got, the plank should only touch the ground on = straights=20 where you are going faster than you were through the fastest = corner (by=20 "corner" I mean something like Eau Rouge or Suzuka's "130R", not = the long=20 gentle curves of Hockenheim). The front and rear are set = separately - if=20 the rear is softly sprung (900 or less), set the packers to about = 3mm less=20 than the ride height. If the rear springs are quite stiff (more = than 900),=20 try setting the packers to 2 or even 1 less than the ride height. = Now test=20 again. If you have handling problems, you know instantly that the = car is=20 sitting on the packers through the corner - that will give you = problems.=20 Otherwise, look at the performance data graphs, and study the = suspension=20 travel section along with the track map. At the point you had the = problem,=20 see which springs were riding on the bump rubbers (no suspension = travel=20 left - the line will be at the ZERO level), and then lower the = packers for=20 that spring by 1mm. Test again and repeat the adjustment until you = have no=20 problems.

Dampers
You now have=20 a car with neutral balance achieved by the wings, springs and roll = bars,=20 that brakes in a controlled and efficient manner, and that doesn't = scrape=20 the ground and wear the plank. More importantly, it goes around = corners in=20 a balanced, predictable manner. There is our final problem, the = human=20 factor. Your car may go around a constant corner smoothly, but = corners are=20 rarely constant, they are normally taken under braking or = acceleration, or=20 while angling the steering by different amounts. Even more than = that, YOU=20 are not constant. The way YOU drive a circuit is different from = EVERYONE=20 else. You brake in a unique fashion, turn-in at a certain point, = get back=20 on the power differently. The speed you turn the wheel and how = roughly or=20 gently you treat the car, all these things make you unique. The = dampers=20 allow you to take the car and adjust it not only for you, but = adjust it=20 for your style of entering a corner, leaving a corner, switching = direction=20 in a chicane, and much more. Not using the dampers correctly means = you are=20 mising out on a vital aspect of setup. Frighteningly complicated = for many,=20 actually the dampers are not too difficult to understand. What = they are is=20 enormously powerful in getting the car to respond exactly = as you=20 want it. I say the dampers aren't too difficult, well, actually = they are=20 VERY difficult - until explained by an expert that is. I am no = expert, but=20 the aforementioned Doug Arnao is, and with our grateful thanks to = Doug, we=20 now hand over to him to explain all about dampers. What they are, = what=20 they do, and how to adjust them.

So you want to know about GP2's = dampers, eh?=20 Well hows about I just tell you what affects they have on a real = race car=20 and some basics on what they do and how they change the dynamics = of a=20 modern day formula car. As long as Geoff has modelled everything = as real=20 as possible, then they should work as advertised. Well, guess=20 what?....they do :-)

Some "Absorbing" info:

  • The rebound should *always* = be higher=20 than the bump (1.5 - 3 times)=20
  • Low speed and fast speed = refer to the=20 speed of the damper shaft relative to the damper housing, NOT to = car=20 speed.

GENERAL
At all times cornering balance is affected by the = weight=20 distribution on the four tires. Springs, sway bars and wings give = constant=20 resistance or affect weight distribution through the ENTIRE length = of a=20 turn. Dampers however, and their amount of resistance, can affect = the=20 balance at different _parts_ of a turn. This occurs because at = different=20 parts (or what are called "phases") of a corner, different dampers = and=20 their travel are dominant at that point. This makes for a = excellent way to=20 adjust the corner entry and exit independent of each other, or to = take a=20 corner that is unbalanced from entry to exit, to one that is = balanced (ie:=20 understeer on the way in - oversteer on the way out).

FAST DAMPING
Fast damping is what the tires see and feel ie: = reactions over=20 bumps or kerbs. It's job is to keep the rubber on the ground over = the=20 various surface undulations. Travelling over a bump at speed = causes a=20 relatively large and "fast" movement of the damper shaft, and = hence it's=20 name. If the front of your car is "overdamped" in the fast bump = direction,=20 then you will experience UNDERSTEER on the bumpy sections of = turns. If the=20 rear is overdamped you will experience OVERSTEER.

For fast speed adjustments, pick = a bumpy=20 turn at the particular track you're working on. Start with bump at = 0 and=20 rebound at 2 and work your way up until the front UNDERSTEERS over = the=20 bumps, then back off 1 or 2 clicks. Then do the same for the rear = until it=20 OVERSTEERS over bumps, again back off 1 or 2 clicks. Always keep = the fast=20 rebound higher than the bump - 1.5 to 3 times so. The stiffer the = spring=20 the stiffer the rebound setting. It is the fast rebound's job to = resist=20 spring pressure and unsprung weight (wheel, tire, hubs, brakes = etc) when=20 the suspension droops. Usually a setting of 2 times the fast bump = works=20 well in GP2. Make sure the car likes "usable" kerbs, too. This may = require=20 softer settings than done in your bumpy turn test - everything is = a=20 compromise.

SLOW DAMPING
Slow damping is what the driver feels ie: turn-in=20 throttle-out, and mid-corner transitions (chicanes). It controls = the=20 dynamic weight transfer and overall motion of the main chassis = relative to=20 the track surface as the car is turned, slowed, and accelerated. = these=20 motions cause "slow" and small movements of the damper shaft, = again the=20 name. The slow rebound usually ends up being higher than the bump, = but can=20 be at times 1:1.
Most fiddling will be done with the slow = speed=20 settings. First settle on a spring and roll bar setting using a = constant=20 radius neutral throttle corner. Next do the "fast" bump = adjustments as=20 described previously, then fine tune with slow speed adjustments. = First=20 We'll need to understand the different cornering "phases" before = we can=20 make a decision as to what slow speed adjustments to = make.

ENTRY type 1 : Increasing = braking +=20 increasing steering
This phase is=20 the first part of a fast decreasing radius turn. This phase will = not occur=20 at all if you get all your braking done *before* you turn-in. = Since weight=20 is being transferred both forward and outboard, the outside front = damper=20 moves in bump and the inside rear damper moves in rebound. these = are the=20 dominant two dampers in this phase of turn-in. The other two have = minimal=20 effects during this phase.

ENTRY type 2 : Decreasing = braking +=20 increasing steering
This is the=20 turn-in phase of a slow corner. This phase may or may not occur = depending=20 on the type of turn or driving technique. Weight is being = transferred=20 outboard and to the rear, so the outboard rear damper moves in = bump and=20 the inside front damper moves in rebound. The other two dampers = are=20 considered stationary.

ENTRY type 3 : Increasing = steering at=20 constant throttle
This phase can=20 be a chicane turn-in (GP2 has a lot of these!) or a turn entry = taken at=20 *full* throttle. Weight is being transferred outboard only, so = *both*=20 outside dampers are moving in bump and *both* inside dampers are = moving in=20 rebound.

MID-CORNER TRANSITION : = Decreasing=20 steering back to zero at constant throttle
This is really the opposite of a type 3 entry. It's = what=20 happens in the middle of a chicane, as you flick the steering back = away=20 from the current cornering direction. As soon as the lateral = acceleration=20 passes back through zero, the turn reverts to a type 3 entry=20 again.

EXIT : Decreasing steering + = increasing=20 throttle (or decreasing braking)
This is the apex_to_exit phase. Weight is being = transferred=20 inboard and to the rear. The outside front damper moves in rebound = and the=20 inside rear moves in bump. The others are considered=20 stationary.

Here's a chart to help = understand low speed=20 damper adjustments: 

 
  ---------------------SLOW-SPEED DAMPER =
ADJUSTMENTS GP2----------------------
 
 CORNERING PHASE        MORE UNDERSTEER         =
MORE OVERSTEER

  Entry Type1            F bump +                 F =
bump -
                         R rebound -              R =
rebound +
 
  Entry Type2            F rebound +              F =
rebound -
                         R bump -                 R =
bump +
 
  Entry Type3            F bump +                 F =
bump -
                         F rebound +              F =
rebound -
                            or                      =
 or
                         R bump -                 R =
bump +
                         R rebound -              R =
rebound +
 
  Mid-corner             F bump -                 F =
bump +
  Transition             F rebound -              F =
bump +
                            or                      =
 or
                         R bump +                 R =
bump -
                         R rebound +              R =
rebound -
 
  Exit                   F rebound -              F =
rebound +
                         R bump +                 R =
bump -
 
                          + =3D increase =
adj.
                          - =3D decrease =
adj.
                          F =3D front
                          R =3D rear
 =
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
----

These are the basics of how they = work on=20 real race cars and they seem to work correctly in GP2. There are = more=20 complicated things they do in real life, like control the = aerodynamic=20 platform and downforce consistency by reducing excessive pitching = and=20 yawing. I doubt they've gone that far in the game, but if they = have it's=20 something else to look at.

--Doug Arnao (Vehicle = Craft=20 Inc.)

Summary

That's basically it for the = setup, and as=20 you can see it is not so difficult to understand. It is certainly=20 frustrating at times as it all gels together or falls apart = depending upon=20 balance. Two setups can look utterly different and yet be = equally=20 quick depending upon how well each component complements or fights = the=20 other components and the driving style. It also shows you why you = cannot=20 simply download a setup from the 'net and expect it to be quick. = With=20 effort you cn learn to drive it, but ultimately you will be = compromising=20 your own driving style and will be unable to express yourself with = it=20 (that's a flowery way of saying "you'll be slower"!!). In closing = this=20 article we'll leave you with a few thoughts to work through on = your=20 own....

  • There's a box in "Advanced = setup level=20 2" called "Symmetrical Editing", and it doesn't have = to be=20 used. Remember that circuits are clockwise or anti-clockwise in = nature=20 and your car will rarely require the same forces on each side. = Almost=20 every setup I've seen on the 'net is symmetrical, and this = misses the=20 opportunity for much more tuning. Remember that for dampers = usually only=20 TWO corners are in use at any one time, and adjusting = symmetrically=20 means you will adjust all four corners. This may correct the = problem you=20 are working on but introduce another problem elsewhere on the = circuit.=20 Tune each corner separately if you can...=20
  • F7, SH and OL affect the = setup. While I=20 personally disapprove of driving aids, many people use them and = it's=20 important to realise that they will make a difference to the = setup.=20 Especially using "Steering Help" will allow you to run with a = bigger=20 differential between front and rear wing. Opposite lock help = will allow=20 a similar thing, the car will still breakaway and try to spin = with high=20 wing differential, but the program will help you catch the = resulting=20 spin. F7 will affect spring and gearing settings.=20

    Return to the test phase. Very = important=20 this, after any change make sure you go back onto the = track and=20 see how it has improved/changed the car. Generally make one = change at a=20 time and then go and try it out. Then go and tune some = more.

  • Sometimes you've tuned your = chassis so=20 much it sounds like an angelic choir, you're driving the wheels = off the=20 car and yet you can't make up any time. In these situations you = can=20 either switch the computer off and come back later, or you can = make a=20 radical change. Maybe you've reached your limit with that setup, = so=20 change the basics. If you're running high downforce, change to = medium or=20 low, if the car is setup very soft then change to stiff springs = and see=20 if you can run any faster with a more responsive car. Make the = change,=20 balance the car again and see how you do.

Well, that's it from this Sim = Racing News=20 guide, and we hope you'll find it useful. There's an awful = lot of=20 work and testing gone into this, so we'd like to extend our thanks = again=20 to Doug Arnao who helped out so much. We think this is not only=20 comprehensive but also accurate, but we're open to suggestions and = criticism. If anyone has any suggestions for improvements or = simply needs=20 setup help, drop us a line and we'll try to=20 help.

Copyright =A91996 Sim Racing News / Written = by John Wallace, all rights=20 reserved
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