Alan Jardine & John's GR10 Report for year 4 – 2007               Return 

This year was through the beginning of the Ariège. As we did not relish carrying camping equipment or taking chances with cabanes we contacted Bergtoppers early in the year and arranged their support.  In effect they made all our accommodation arrangements, they also made or arranged to have made our picnic lunches each day, and provided very welcome transport which allowed us to carry a significantly lighter load each day. Normally our rucks would be in the region of 11/12Kg without water. I reckon we probably halved that. This was a great help as some days were difficult enough.

We were fortunate that we chose to walk later this year as they had a very wet summer and the weather had just settled the day we arrived, we could see signs of the heavy rain they had been having.   

The Bergtoppers set up is basically a Dutch couple Roelof & Ireen & 2 lovely children. They live near Seix (10k approx before Seix along the GR10) and have established a campsite/gite style at their home. They plan to build in Seix itself in the near future and live there in the winter months. They manage to do all the arrangements & transport by themselves though we were there at the end of the season. Roelof does take other trips in the region into Spain and some of the more remote areas if required.

We flew into Toulouse on 26th August then by train to Bousson and bus onto St Girons.

There we were met by Ireen who transported us to Seix and we were booked into Auberge Haut du Salat (also run by Dutch folk). It is a nice hotel, old fashioned & comfortable with good food and a friendly atmosphere.

Day 1 Eylie to La Pucelle (est 6 hrs +900/-900m)
Ireen & the children picked us up at the hotel at 0730 and transported us to Eylie where we finished the previous year 2006. We headed up to Col de L'Arech at 1802 (2hrs 25m) hard going for me as I was not as fit as I should have been. Temperatures of 33 to 35c. Then down through oak/beech shade to rendezvous point at the picnic spot at La Pucelle. We were slightly ahead of time, however Ireen & kids were there to greet us with a cold beer from the river! A short break there & they then took us back to Hotel Crabère in Sentein. This place is big & to be frank just barely OK. A reasonable meal and a good rest.

Day 2 La Pucelle to Riberot (est 5 hrs +900/-900m)
Ireen & kids picked us up at 0745 and dropped us at La Pucelle at 0810. A steep climb up to Clot du Lac 1821m, a pleasant enough walk then a steep hard descent to the RV at Riberot where we arrived at 1400. Roelof & family arrived shortly after and we all took a break before they left us back to Hotel Crabère at Sentein at 1530. (If we had to do it again we would have stayed both of these nights at Seix.)   (The ladies? who ran the establishment had a spooky aura which seemed to fit in well with the hotel)

Day 3 Riberot to Bergtoppers (est 7hrs +1000/-800)
Again they picked us up on time as always and dropped us back at the Riberot where we headed off at 0820 in warm & sunny weather. Reached the top Cap de Lauses 1892 in 3 hrs. Got delayed slightly with a thunderstorm near the top and we sheltered for a spell in a tidy enough cabane near the top. Scenery on way up and for a spell after was great. We arrived into Bergtoppers place at 1650 after a long not very enjoyable descent with some mist/low cloud and got a little lost on the way down. We were the only walkers staying with Bergtoppers that night. We had a tiny stone cabin right next to their home. It had a modern but outside toilet & showers facility and inside a very clean but basic sleeping accommodation with bunks, all lit by paraffin lamp/candles. However Ireen made us very welcome & we were invited into their home to eat our evening meal with them. Food excellent & nicely completed with an Aramac & off to our cabin.

Day 4 Bergtoppers to Seix (est 3-4 hrs -600/+200)
A leisurely start after an excellent ham omelet with Ireen & co. A very comfortable walk into Seix and back to our same hotel room as we had on our first night of the walk. We were in time for lunch and were joined just after by Ireen who arrived with our bags. This necessitated another carafe of rosé followed by a welcome afternoon nap. We had a pre dinner explore of Seix, a very pleasant small town and a good base for the purpose. A good evening meal & an early night, as usual!

Day 5 Seix to Rouze (est 9hrs +1500/-1300/+200)
An early start greatly assisted by Ireen again who kindly took us up the first road stretch, about 6/7km (to avoid us re-covering a lot of what we had walked the previous day!). A hard climb up for 4 hrs to Port d'Aula at 2000m with Mt. Valier at 2800 overlooking us. It did seem a bit strange to reach the top and find a road and 4 guys cycling by! Again a long tedious descent to Couflens where we had a break before the steep but shady climb to the gite at Rouze & the Goat lady about 45 mins later.

The gite was comfortable, a dormitory style room up stairs where we looked to be the only residents. Our bags had been left by earlier by Ireen. A good shower, some washing followed by a Pastis settled us in preparation for the evening meal which was to be cooked for us by the owner of the Gite who also is famous for her goats, milk & cheeses.

John's inspection of the fridge led us to believe that the meat marinating in it was goat for our meal. We had been assured that the food here was excellent. Unfortunately the goat did not appear on the menu!

The meal was OK, salad and cheese with wine supplied, however when the lady asked us if we had enough wine we said yes, but were taken aback when she departed to her farm taking the remains of the bottle with her!

Later that evening, after we had turned in I heard folks arriving, so I checked that they were not having a midnight feast with our breakfast!

Day 6 Rouze to St Lizier d'Ustou (est. 3 hrs +600/-800)
A leisurely start after a fairly good breakfast despite that larder raiders! A steady climb up through woods for 600+ metres took 1-1/2 hrs and we got into the Gite at St. Lizier in time to go to the little bar/Restaurant for a couple of beers before we went back to the gite for a shower and to have our (Ireen prepared) lunches on the balcony. The gite was unattended when we arrived but a note left for us directing us to a very comfortable room and also advising us that a couple of beers in the fridge had our names on them!

Later that evening Yann the patron & his wife 3 children turned up. Also several others arrived for the night. Yann very capably prepared an excellent meal for us all whilst he looked after the children, and generally kept us all amused. The meal was a very enjoyable affair with a good mix of conversations.

Day 7 St. Lizier to Aulus les Bains (est. 6hrs +1000/-1000)
(The GR10 Trail by Paul Lucia gives the full route as more like +1361/-1351, however we decided to take the short cut at the later stage of the day). At breakfast next morning there was a family who were there to see their son head off for Banyuls, fully loaded with tent & gear. O' to be young! Though we did meet up with him later as he came back on the route having taken a wrong turn.

A good days walking up to Col d'Escots and thence onto Aulus where we were booked into Gite Presbytre, a slightly old fashioned but very adequate place with a warm welcome from Christophe the proprietor. He also provided an excellent meal later which we enjoyed outside in the garden. We actually arrived slightly ahead of our bags, though Ireen arrived soon after us. Aulus is a pleasant place with a choice of several places to have a beer or to eat. During the evening we mentioned that the first few Km in the morning was a boring road & that a lift to Coumebière would be very nice!

Day 8 Aulus les Bains to Monicou (est. 8hrs +1000/-700) according to Bergtoppers
(Paul Lucia gives the climb/descent as 1300/993).

Christophe very kindly arranged a lift for us up to Coumebière with his wife/partner in her Clio. A nice start to a potentially long day. We started off in a damp mist & climbed steadily in a zigzag to Port de Saleix. Then a tricky descent via the wire rope and toe holds and then as the mist cleared further we could see better the great scenery as we approached the Étangs Bassiès. We did not go across to the refuge as we wanted to keep up the pace and had a long way to go. We had a break just before the descent and watched as a helicopter brought stores up to the refuge. The descent down over loose footing was pretty awful and we were glad to at last get to the aqueduct for, we guess, a flat walk of around 4k. Thence in to Marc and the “sting” was the walk up to the Gite at Monicou.

Ireen had already been & left our bags. The Gite is very old fashioned and basic. Also it became apparent that it was almost full with French, German Austrians & an American girl staying.  

Ireen had left us food which we prepared ourselves They were all friendly folk but the facilities were barely up to it. The old lady who runs the place has a tiny bar & we could get a beer. However it became cool that night and with a big day ahead we turned in surrounded by the “United Nations” & one of their dog on the floor beside my bunk!  

Day 9 Monicou to Goulier (est. 9hrs +600/-500 Bergtoppers) Lucia says 8hrs 1372/1349
An early start still almost dark after a poor breakfast. Set off at a good pace, John anxious for more speed as we had a big day ahead! Up quickly to 1640 and down to Artiès comfortably ahead of the schedule time. We decided against the very steep short cut and went on up to the head of the valley at Étang d'Izourt. The weather a bit iffy at this time though it did hold up OK. As we came down the other side of the valley we came across extensive pipeline work in progress (Electricity Workers) and this had badly effected the markings. Also we later got a little lost and had to retrace a couple of times to identify the proper route. The long walk down the side of the valley with a steep drop on the left of the path was initially interesting but seemed to go on for ever and with a loose surface became a hard slog and we were glad to get it over. If I had it to do again I might consider the short cut as I don't think the trudge to the top of the valley was worth the effort. We relieved to get into a wood and a more pleasant descent where John spotted a red squirrel. Into Goulier after 9hrs 15, not too bad for a couple of old fellas, but probably up there with the hardest days of the GR10 so far.

We were booked into Relais d'Endron at the top of the village. We found it very good with separate rooms, clean and good food. Again our bags had arrived ahead. Later that evening we were joined by one of the Germans, a young guy who had just got in from Monicou (though he did start later!) One day to go!

Day 10 Goulier to Siguer (est. 4hrs +450/-800)
Away after a good breakfast, a beautiful morning cool & clear with frost on the ground in places near the top. A great day, and a nice short day to complete our walk for 2007. We arrived into Siguer to be met by Roelof and his daughter. I managed a shower at the “Gite type” facility provided by the villagers. Very welcome, it has bunks and cooking facilities though no supplies available that we could see.

We had arranged that Roelof would take us to the train at Tarascon but when we got there we found the next one was 2+hrs later, so he kindly took us to Foix where we had our lunch & a coffee before catching the train onto Toulouse .

A night in Toulouse then a flight home the next day saw the end of a very enjoyable walk.

We were very happy with Bergtoppers, their transport & bookings were good and we found them very helpful in all respects. Carrying the light packs also makes a significant difference. We shall be using then again this year.

Proposed Itinerary for GR10 2008

  1.  Probably fly out 10th June 2008, pick up at Toulouse by Roelof and taken to Barrage de Riete.   Hike from Refuge de Clarans  to Plateau to La Beille. Lift back to hotel in Tarascon.  

  1. Transfer to Sigeur by BT and walk to Refuge de Clarans.
  1. Transfer by BT to Plateau la Beille, hike to Refuge de Ruhle, sleep in refuge.
  1. Walk to Merens les Vals, transfer to hotel in Ax.
  1. Transfer by BT to Merens les Vals & walk to de Bésines, sleep in refuge.
  1. Hike to Lac de Bouillouses stay in hotel.
  1. Walk to Planes & stay in gite.
  1. Walk to Mantet & stay in hotel or gite
  1. Transfer to Toulouse by BT