2: ON THE TRAIL
Readers of this enthralling two-part serial will recall that at the end of Instalment One our hero had succeeded in reducing his total pack-weight for a six-day backpacking trip to 19lb 13oz. This was in pursuance of a theory that 20lb is the maximum weight for com- fortable backpacking when you've passed seventy years of age and that everything you need can be included in that weight. The theory was to be tested on Glyndwr's Way, a route recently designated by the Powys Plan- ning Authority.
Glyndwr's Way (Ffordd Glyndwr) starts at Knighton on the English border — and on Offa's Dyke — and finishes at Machynlleth, both of which places have stations on BR lines. It uses footpaths, byways, and hill tracks and is sparsely but usually adequately waymarked with blue or gold arrows; though you definitely need the 1:50,000 OS maps (148, 136, and 135) if you propose to walk it from end to end. It has been planned rather as a series of short day walks than as a cross- country line, and the nine excellent leaflets describing these walks can be obtained from the County Planning Officer at Llandrindod Wells. Measurement on the maps made the total distance 70 miles as against the leaflets' total of 66½, and two occasions when I went astray brought my final walking distance to 71½. To give an idea of the route I propose to quote from the Log I kept on the journey. After that, I'll report on the success or otherwise of my equipment, specially lightened for this trip.
I must first confess, however, that before starting I added two further items to the list of pack contents detailed last month: a very small electric torch, and a two-by-four piece of foam rubber, both of which proved invalu- able. They weighed, together, exactly 2oz, so I set out carrying 19lb 15oz — still under Twenty!
The Journey
Friday September 8.At 4.45pm got off train at Knighton into torrential downpour. First test of lightweight outer clobber satisfactory. In intermittent drizzle sought Public Footpath sign showing start of Glyndwr's Way and climbed very steep lanes to a hilltop field path. Very windy, not a soul about. Came down to a lonely farm, Cefn Suran, as light was fading and pitched in the only sheltered place — close to wall of pigsty. (Farmer gave free permission). Rain stopped as I pitched. Water from muddy pipe in farmyard.
Brew-up — soup, two cuppas, biscuits. Dark at 8.30, so turned in after inflating Sur- frider groundmat. 4½ miles.
Saturday September 9. Slept 9 hrs. So pre- sumably did the old sow three yards away. Dark and windy at 6am but rain had stopped after a wet night. The 43-year-old tent hadn't let in a drop, but the brand-new Surfrider let me down in the small hours. Took it to the farm duckpond and located the leak, a
Monday September 11.Very high wind in night but the old tent stood firm. No rain and tent drying a bit, but rain spattered on my setting-out at 7.45. Grand walking in fierce gale for 2 hours, forestry, hill tracks. Vis- of distant hills and ragged gaps of blue sky. Kingfisher seen by stream in wooded dingle.
Short road walk into Llanidloes, market town and a pint at the Crown and Anchor. Shopped in heavy rain &mdash sugar, biscuits, but eggs only available in half-dozens. Landlord of Crown and Anchor, when told this, gave me two eggs free! Had another pint... On in full waterproofs (the lightweights standing up well to severe test) by roads through Van and past old lead mines, into sheltered valley below the Clywedog dam at 5.30pm.
Camped wild here for first time, near Cly- wedog river, in lee of brackeny bank. Rain stopped as I pitched and had a boiled-egg tea like a gentleman. Delightful site. Boots and socks have been soaking for three days but sleeping-bag and pyjamas bone-dry. Found today's distance easy with so light a pack — 16 miles.
Tuesday September 12.Dry morning! Spec- tacular pink sunrise. Steep paths up to moun- tain road winding along Clywedog lake, Intermittent SUN with high wind, scenery grand. Halted for an hour where suitable wire fence allowed tent, etc, to be hung up to dry. Forest path, then road to small village of Stay- little (no pub, one store selling pop and sweets) and thence grand drove track fol- lowing crests of 1500-foot hills. Views of Arans northward and Plynlimon southward. On road near Staylittle, by the way, I encountered the first human being on foot I'd seen since leaving Knighton 3½ days ago.
To avoid the metalled road over Bwlch- y-Fedwen, used by Glyndwr's Way, I diverged across open hillside and along the mag- nificent Clywedog gorge to pass Llyn Glas;
badly welded seam. Boiled egg, b-&-b and marmalade, packed tent wet and away 9am. Blowing half-a-gale but dry. Waymarking poor hereabouts; across lane, up steep field track to pleasant hillside with charming views. Countryside deserted. Saw, literally, no one all day.
Out onto fine rolling moorland — Pool Hill and Black Mountain — in gale and blinks of sun, fine distant views. Lost the route in track-less heather but got down to tiny village of Felindre where there was one very small shop. Bought some Bostik clear Adheshive and on again uphill, old drove path then open fields, to Rhuvid Farm at 6pm. Steep hillside gave a lee for the tent here. The farmeress was dumbfounded at the idea of anyone wanting to camp — never seen a tent before. I made her take 20p and pitched before glueing the surfrider link with Bostik. Then a brew- up. Gale flapping tent didn't stop me sleeping soundly from 9pm to 5.45am. Surfrider repair held. 12 miles.
Sunday September 10.Rained in night and tent was packed wet again, but I was away by 7.35 in dark windy weather, mounting ancient grass track onto hill ridges. Violent wind — difficult to keep one's feet. Far hills blue-black behind scudding rain-clouds. Home-made backpack now very comfortable after adjust- straps and am going strong with my 20lbs.
Got down into Borrovian dingle for a brew-up and lunch and was driven into shel- ter under hazel thickets by heavy shower. Lanes followed, into hamlet of Abbey Cwmhir under high forested hills, then sheltered fore- stry roads and lane up to Bwlch-y-Sarnau, half-a-dozen cottages. Feeling tired at 5pm, I checked map and found I had done 17 miles! Two miles more and camp in lee of solitary farmhouse, Nanteos. Young farmer and wife redecorating house. No charge. 19 miles.
Typical mid-Wales scenery near Painscastle (photo M. Teal)
