Capiche: By Malcolm Corbin.

Part 1

Intro: Following Mini Jazz was always going to be difficult! But I learnt some very valuable lessons in how to present a model. Firstly checking the plan was correct would have been good! Luckily the elevator was much bigger than the tail plane, so the models that were built with the incorrect tail incidence seem not to have suffered little more than a touch of down trim. I also learnt lessons on the wood pack. You will need NO joins or splices ALL the bits in this baby fit the bill perfectly (I hope). No honest guv I have checked that the kit can be cut from the pack with a bit to spare. I have also learnt to allow a bit more room for radio, tank and motor. This has led to a slightly larger model (44”good size for a 15) with loads of room for a 4 oz tank (Slec or premier) and the ability to fit a motor from mild to wild i.e. 15 to 25 2 stroke or a speed 600 race and 8 cells. I must admit the model was primarily designed to cater for the speed 600 race. This was deliberate and a better way to go, as trying to convert IC to electric is sometimes not easy! Going this way round makes the jump into electric both cheap and in this format easy. The IC version has become both light easy to install and very versatile. I had many e-mails about the option of fitting a larger 20 or 25 in the Mini J but the cowl did not leave much in the way of room for a 10 let alone the larger 15 or 20 god help the chance of a 25!! Capiche can cope with all these options and based on its glide is more than capable of a very spirited and aerobatic slope performance with no engine. Capiche has been as said designed primarily with race 600 in mind and the wing section I have used has made it very efficient at all three tasks. I am not allowed to talk much about the flying at this stage except this little baby can CLIMB on knife edge on a fifteen and requires little correction from either elevator or aileron oh err!

The Build:

The one-piece plan (I hope) will make the build easy? (E-mail malcolmcorbin@btinternet.com the most important thing that needs to be mentioned is the way round the early construction of the fuzz to insure a true and easy to build fuzz! So here we go.

Fuzz:

Firstly cut a matched pair of sides (DO PUT THE POINTS FOR THE WING TUBE AND REAR DOWL ON AT THIS TIME) if you decide to build a one piece model cut the shape of the wing away from the sides and check they are perfect. Then add the two pieces of 6x3mm bass along the top edge. Add the two strips of 6mm sq along the bottom. The three 3mm lite ply formers can now be added to one side these will all be the same width. Now add the other side, which should be easy as all at this point will be square. Now add the bottom sheeting from the front to the former behind the wing and add the servo tray and the two small sub formers A&B (if doing an electric). So far we have no bends so all should be straight and square? Bring the fuzz sides at the back in to meet each other and bond. OK the next bit if any is the hardest bit! Add the last former (f4) and wet the fuzz sides well from the canopy section to the tail i.e. the rear top decking. Whilst the wetness is getting in there! Add the false top deck sheet (See photo or dwg). When the sheeting has become pliable carefully pull in and glue to f3 & f4 and the false top decking. This will leave a section at the back to allow the rudder to locate down into the fuzz for a very strong tongued joint. Add the top rear 6mm decking (pre cutting the 5mm slot for the rudder). Slap a piece of 3mm balsa at the angle of the canopy back face and sand to a smooth profile. Next sheet the top front deck between f1 and 2. Now cut and lay a piece of 3mm balsa angled at the back to form the cockpit\ canopy base plate also add two bezel guide rails to the edges to locate canopy base laterally. Use cling film to mask the fuzz for the canopy base for the next bit unless you are brave (foolhardy)! Add canopy front former and sheet between the angled canopy back and the front canopy former to a height of 20mm then sheet over the front section to be hidden by the canopy again with 3mm balsa. Now is the time to give the whole lot a sand, this will also flush the cockpit\ canopy area into the fuzz and hopefully prepare the fuzz for covering. If you decide to fit a pilot dress accordingly or just back paint the canopy film cover the cockpit\ canopy item and cover in your favourite Profilm J. When finished the majority of the base can be removed leave approx 5\8” perimeter err I mean 15mm. If building a lecky version you might need to do this to clear the accu 8 cell pack?( Shouldn’t be necessary but it is close).

Things to consider:

A fifteen has caused me a few problems with the CG an ounce of lead up front on mine. You could lighten the rudder and tail plane (BE CAREFULL) having said this I am now using a 400 rec pack instead of a 270mah. But do keep this in mind whilst building. I hate to add lead to anything except a slope soarer J. If you fit a 20 or 25 OH boy make sure your hinges are good!!!

The speed 600 race and 8 cells format will balance with ease and is both cheap and a great starting point for your first lecky. I have tried a couple of more exotic set-ups anything from a Plettenburg 200\ 20\ 6 on 7 cells and a 7x4” apc to an Aveox 1409 4y on 10 cells and an 10x6”apc!

If you go slope a ply box at the front from 3mm marine ply (not in pack from Balsa craft) is a good idea. Build this into the front section similar to the crutch for the speed 600. This will allow the nicad and receiver as far forward as possible to get the weight as far forward as possible and move the servos for elevator and rudder forward also. The biggest problem for the sloper will be keeping the weight forward add as little lead as possible for light winds and fabricate a ballast box to sit over the CG. Seeing as the IC version slopes so well this set up will allow flights in very light winds. Ballast sounds good too J for windy days. I reckon the “Capiche” will cope well with anything from 8-10 knots to ?? How brave are you? Wing construction etc and flying in part two. For the brave just go with the plan or e-mail me ( I like a challenge). I do hope there are still modellers out there as I am getting worried about all these ARTF models!! Capiche builds quickly and easily so have a go I think you might be surprised how good it is. Fun building Malcolm

Part 2

First things first!

Don’t listen to the EDITOR. The U/C as shown is NOT the same as Mini Jazz. (Yes I used it but the drawing is different) if you have one it will be more than adequate. The CG as shown is a guide! I would set at 85mm for SLOPE! (Where up is DOWN and down is down)! I have flown it at 90mm (That was interesting)!! For power I would start at 75mm. The 6mm top sheet on the fuzz should run through at the same angle as the Canopy/ hatch back edge section. This will give you a good 3mm plus gluing area to the canopy, allowing for the angle nearly 4mm. The sheer webs shown as 1mm ply should be 3mm liteply!! Also if you wish the sheer webs only need to be on the front face of the 6x3mm bass spars not both sides and the packing for the wing tube need only be soft scrap balsa NOT BASS. (Over kill and hard to do)!

WINGS:

Not much to say here really apart from leaving out the extra webs and using liteply. The two packing pieces for the wing might cause an odd frown here or there! The idea is to pin the two packing strips to the plan. They have been positioned so that they take up the gap under the ribs so that you can build the two wing halves true with the correct under camber. I must confess I did NOT allow for these in the plan pack sorry. Complete the halves as a unit then cut the ailerons out after. I left a small gap between the separate halves then carefully cut apart with a brand new scalpel blade. Do no forget to add a stiffener where the aileron horns will go. My model was also built with the intention of building a Second fuzz for electric with the plug on wing this would allow TWO models to be flown on ONE set of wings. The weight penalty is minimal and does give the option of breaking down to a very small model. If you use a carbon wing joiner and tube as a detachable wing I would build the fuzz first DRY fit the tail plane then with both wing skins finished but with the top sheeting left off push each tube through its respective wing panel. Make the tubes go in exactly in the middle of the first rib between the spars make this a good snug fit. Then cut a hole in R2 slightly lower make it oval if you wish. Line the tail feathers up with the wings and prop the tips up so that you create 1\2” of dihedral under each tip whilst checking this is all-square with the tail. Tack the tubes in place up to R3 and pack with soft balsa. Bond the liteply to either side this will give you a strong well-dispersed load joiner. I also installed my servos at this point so it was easy to align the slot up for the servo horn. I bonded these in with Zap a Dap a Goo after wrapping in Glass tape having pushed the arms up so they did not stick out you can add the top sheeting. The servo will pop out later after covering and the slot has been opened when you fire up the servos with the tranny. The wing joiner for the fixed version may also cause the odd query. The idea is to cut to braces from liteply bond together then carefully feed thin cyano (I used Rippo BLUE or ZAP CA would be good) into the end grain to reinforce before bonding the two wing halves across the fuzz. Formers A and B are a good idea if using the carbon /ally joiner kit. They help stop loads on the fuzz. My model has quite a high degree of wing flex but this is not a problem! As flex is good! At time of writing mine has completed more than eight blenders with NO problems. OK a Blender is a manoeuvre where you climb to height and cut to tick over dive vertically rolling left or right then snap the model into an inverted flat spin. The sudden stop and change of direction would rip the wings off of a model if it were not up to the task! If I were to suggest anything on the wing it would be to produce the skins and sand first as sanding once built causes all sorts of problems. A couple of blocks inside of rib 1 at the point of the rear dowel would be good also as long term vibration from IC motors will make the fit sloppy and cause wing wobble. (Mine did).

Tail Feathers:

The plan shows no cross grain stiffening and this should be added as is the norm 10mm will be adequate except the top of the rudder which will be for the full counter balance. If you decide to go with the .15 IC motor take great care to keep the back end light. To achieve the cg for power will be hard with out lead. So you may need to lighten the tail surfaces by either boring holes or making from built up 3/16” x 3/8” fun fly style technology. Above all KEEP THE TAIL END LIGHT.

Motors:

Wow do we have a choice? Easiest here is electric. A race 600BB and 8 cells 2000 or 3000 nimh Sanyo would be my choice. The later nimh’s are capable of charging @ 5 amps and even more important GIVING 50 amps if required! With a speed 600 the start draw will be approx 30 amps. Well within the new Sanyo 3000 packs ability. As direct drive with an 8 x 4 slim prop and a 35amp controller will give a very good performance for cheap lecky and your first indulgence into the quite side!! Ask at Balsa craft as they have All the bits you will need. Whilst on the lecky side of things unless you are blessed with Tarmac or the best of grass I would leave the U/C off the lecky version and rely on hand launch slide in on the belly pan idea as I think the U/C will soon be ripping itself off the model. The combination of poor R.O.G and slightly heavier landing speed WILL take their toll. (Sorry ED just telling the truth).

I.C.

Well I did start with a .15 la and a Graupner 8”x4” prop but I now have a .25 la with a 9”x4” master screw! The .25 motor weighs only 1.5ozs more, but has half as much more power, it is also right out the front! The 3 yes 3 ounces of lead that I eventually added for good stability under the tank for I.C performance was totally discarded when the 25 la went in producing a model 1.5 ozs lighter but producing an extra 50% performance! (Or they’re about). So if you go 15 route you MUST be light at the back. With the 25 hold onto your hat it’s VERTICAL! Please bear in mind at this time that the 15 powered model would perform just about all manoeuvres except prop hang and a comfy knife-edge.

Flying:

The Capiche has caused me more problems in motor set-up than most! From day one I always wanted more power than the .15 the slope version will take care of itself as this model is unlikely to be used for slope by beginners. Electric set up is up to you whether you go speed 600 and eight cells or maybe an Astro cobalt 05. For I.C the best I have come across was my conversion in Sweden whilst on my holidays with my friend Olle from the .15 to the 25 LA. He rang Hobbytra in Kalmar from the field next, day the motor was fitted! This is not to say that the 15la will not fly the model far from that it is more than capable but the 25 is better in my humble opinion. I have also been asked about the fitting of a 26 surpass? Why not give it a go if you have one. With electric a hand launch is recommended also for the .15 la. With a 25La just put it on the grass and watch it go vertical. Oh I forgot yes it will do all the manoeuvres in the book the only limitation will be the pilot and in typical Cap style a small mix of up elevator for knife edge will be good. The 15la needed more up on knife edge as it required more throw to hold on due to the lower power the 25la requires less rudder to hold on therefore less drag.

Throws:

Aileron High rate 15mm up and down. Low rate 8mm up and down.

Elevator High rate 20mm up and down. Low 10mm up and 12 down

Rudder High as much as you can get! Low set to hold knife edge at approx 30mm

Conclusions:

Mini Jazz was exactly the same as Capiche whilst I started with a .10 in Mini J and started with a .15 in Capiche both models were transformed by the larger motor. Capiche will take the .25 with ease and is my recommended motor for both its ease in achieving a CG and its power to weight ratio, which is far better. I have already been asked about a small 4 stroke?? I have no knowledge from trying but I reckon yes it will work. The cowl is generous and the basic model lends itself to bigger motors the Saito 30 and the 26 surpass might be good. (But not 30 2strokes)! I am still trying many options on Capiche as she is of a very versatile size!! Do you go electric on a speed 600 (with no U\C) or be careful (weight wise) on a 15 or fit a four stroke 26 or 30 or fit my choice of a 25 la OS.

The choice is yours! Good luck.

This little beastie built by Jan in Sweden. It has a shortened MVVS 28 with in flight mixture control on the mid range needle. Jan admitted to beefing the wing joiner up a tad!! I flew it several times this year at Oskarshamn and Vastervic. To say it was quick is a bit of an understatement! Vertical performance with ease.