Right I am going to try this review from another angle! Instead of a blow by blow account of how to follow the "Italian" instructions I will try and pass on to you tips I have picked up plus my thoughts as how to treat such a model. With a bit of luck you might avoid any mistakes I might have made! Also bare in mind if you are spending £200 plus for a kit swapping a couple of pieces of balsa is no worse than opting for your favourite links as opposed to those provided. I will also include my niggles along the way. I have made numerous calls and collected info to make your choices less of a guess and more of a decision! (Let's hope this doesn't back fire on me).
The most important choice you can make. Mine was made for me as I already owned an O.S.108 (BX1). Having spoke to Marco Benicasa (test pilot for original prototype) it became obvious that the model was aimed at the now renowned Super Tigre 20/23 as the ultimate in grunt producing power plants. I also have a Moki 135 of all but identical power and proportions. Which will swing a 16"x10" apc @ 8,800rpm whilst running on straight fuel and has to date never let me down. Both these motors will give you stump pulling power on cheap fuel and without having to fit fussy pumps or odd carbs or on board glows! The BX1 is slightly smaller than the other two but what a refined motor it is. Allied to the Weston mini pipe and Weston soft mounted this is the "Rolls Royce" of the trio and capable of producing 10,000rpm on a 14 x 8"apc or 9,200 on a 15"x8"apc. Final choices such as the Y.S.120-140 are very powerful and expensive units requiring nitro and also create a fair bit of low-end vibration (Big bang). At the other end of the spectrum I have a new OS91 FX which is excellent and capable of throwing a 13" x 10" on a muffler at 9,700rpm and is smooth and low on vibration. This unit may cause a few problems achieving a good C.G. But if you can get it there without adding lead the wing loading verses power would be excellent.
If you go the route of the intended 20\23 or Moki 135 build it strong and balance will not be much of a problem there is also huge amounts of space for the motor inside this cavernous beautifully made cowl. At the other extreme to fit a 91 FX (or similar) will require great care at the rear end to achieve the C.G. Selection of lighter wood for capping and the use of cyano as an adhesive as opposed to epoxy will be necessary. Cutting back on the material used for the structure will also be needed if you do not wish to add lead! The nicad will also need to be right up on the firewall. The advantage here is the lower wing loading will require less strength at the rear end. Do exercise extreme caution if you choose to lighten the structure and it will be best left to sanding back slightly and trimming of the frame rather than the removal of formers etc!!! For example with the BX up front. I was looking at saving approx 150 grams at the front. The motor alone may only be 70 grams lighter but consider also the prop weight mount etc (a 14x8" apc weighs 70 grams a 16"x10" weighs 107 grams) so my 150 grams is based on the difference between Moki 135 package and O.S108). The selection of lighter capping material alone saved me 38 grams at the back. The balance point of the plane is on the centre of the wing tube so from the front to the C.G is approx 10" from the C.G. back is some 30" this gave three times the original saving! So my 38grams at the back were worth 114 less grams at the front. With the BX I have achieved an easy balance without the necessity for lead and at 8lbs 10ozs is a very healthy power to weight ratio. You salivate? Read on.
Phew I realise my English is not good and that most Italians speak far better English than I do Italian but. A good deal of sniggering was going on whilst I read through the words. The plan is good drawn in approx 1\2 scale to the model. The top of the rudder should be curved but apart from that obvious error to scale the plan looks good. However there are one or two little items missing which I would liked to have seen! Biggest of all being the lack of motor mount position! I did work it out and also allow for the three degrees of side thrust (offset about 10mm to the left there is NO downthrust). I suppose an aerobatic model of this level is aimed at a more experienced flyer\builder combination but this most basic of information should have been included in my humble opinion. (Niggle numero uno).
Very high indeed the installation for the wing tube is perfect and very simple. I would love to now how they router so cleanly. The general wood is excellent (based on a ST 20\23 or Moki135) the fuzz is very well built and true. The wing cores and tail feathers are excellent also. The capping for the ailerons is also pre-bevelled nice touch. (wot appens if you wanna toppa de hinge?) Well you can't please everybody. DO be careful to align these capping strips carefully, as this determines the centre for the hinge. The addition of a well-made vacuum-formed cockpit area is good, although I thought Patrick looked a little too small for scale! Another niggle was the line in the vacuum forming for the canopy (picky picky). I wasn't over keen on the thought of half plastic vac forming's for the wheel spats either. Especially with the quality of the cowl. (Weight of this little gem was 117grams). But they went together without much drama and are light at 37grams each. The under carriage legs are a two piece affair. Why they are not one piece I'm not sure? They may get replaced with a one- piece carbon affair at a later date.
The kit contains the basic bits one would expect but not much. With such a range of motors available to fit this model including a tank or control rods would really be a waste. With a Moki or S.T heavier 4\40 rods are all but a must on the O.S 91FX or similar you may trust a standard 1.2mm (I wouldn't). A good quality closed loop for the rudder is a good idea and look to fit a 16oz tank for the Moki\ST set-up. The Moki is an ounce per minute motor as an average so a good 15-minute flight will be possible with reserve. A 12oz will be good for the 91,s. I have used a 16ozs with the BX. A spinner, wheels and a motor mount will also be required.
Easy. But took longer than I expected considering the fuzz is all but built and the wings, stab and fin are already made and require just capping. Must have been all that sanding at the back! Plus the polishing on the dural legs. The finished model has an air of power and charisma around it and begs for that little extra effort.
A good option would be to fit individual wing adjusters to allow for perfect trimming and are mentioned in the building notes. (I did).Time to build approx 3 weeks of evenings.
Five servos for this one I would recommend five kilo units plus for rudder and elevator (9202) the rest can be 148,s This is a powerful model and using 4\40 rods would seem a good idea to me. (I did). As for room there is loads of space. I used a carbon kite rod for the elevator push rod with a "Y" linkage at the back. A 3\8" dowel would be OK but maybe supporting it in the middle with a cradle to stop whip would be good.
Profilm of course. There is a full set of decals for the "Christian Swietzer" Academy scheme in the kit but I have this love for the "Patrick Paris Breitling". I know it has been done to death but it looks good and is very easy to see in the air, which is important to me. You will need Two rolls of Cadmium yellow, one roll of dark blue and one roll of Ferrari red. If you wish to follow suit. If you make a plasticard template for the curve on the wing all the colours can be cut with ease and this scheme is easy to copy without much grief. Watch the blue cut carefully or you will need two rolls (one of my mistakes).I had decals computer cut and they have no clear plastic backing to them. Looks better and weighs less. The carbon tail wheel bracket was another attempt at weight saving at the back and inclusive of wheel is only 12 grams and much less bendy than a wire. The power of the rudder makes a steerable tail wheel unnecessary.
Well what did you expect at 8lbs 10ozs! It went straight up. I rate the little Kyosho Cap 232 as one of my most used "Sunday" toys and expected the Sebino at 66" to be small enough to be used all the time but have the edge on the smaller 70 surpassed Kyosho model in both smoothness and power. Oh boy I wasn't wrong!! This model is well sorted will do the book with ease. She needs a little more to provoke a snap than the smaller Kyosho but that's probably a good thing. If you wished a sharper snap you could always leave the leading edges sharper toward the tip.( I prefer the softer snap and rounded the tip leading edges). Yes as with most, if not all Cap 232s she needs mixing for knife edge as the more rudder you pile on the more down hill she goes. I shall start with approx 10% up to rudder (linear) and go from there. The motor is 110% reliable and this set-up is so good and very quiet. The C.G. is spot on the money and as the tank reaches the dregs inverted is just at the point of climb (lovely). I haven't found anything in its flight envelope I don't like she stall turns without flopping and has great authority. My impressions whilst flying is of a much bigger model. This one commands attention on the flight line and has that aura of power and class. A banked high power pass of the field will guarantee a full audience. The all important STALL very mild and no problem for all pilots.
This one just replaced my Kyosho Cap as number one top Sunday model. Scale looks plus full aerobatic capability. Ease of transport also it has the ability to land in a small field which is important to me. She shows up well in this scheme. The wing section is a real winner and gives me confidence. The two part wing makes transport easy. I reckon now I have finished and set the model up it would be feasible to achieve a C.G. with a 91 and NO lead as mine is easily there. The low wing loading then would be terrific. Would it be enough power? (Probably for most).20\23 or M 135? Loads of power obscene in fact! Cheap running too. But for me the O.S 108 is just to good a package to ignore. The balance between unlimited vertical and weight has been achieved. To date this is the best model I have ever reviewed. Oh best add this as Graham is unlikely to let me get away with it! Whilst testing on its first outing at a very windy Old Warden a panel of my beloved Profilm tore off! I reckon this was due to the fact I overlapped forwards. So that blue did not show through the yellow as a shadow. Also the adding of the decal when the carrier sheet was removed must have lifted an edge slightly, shoddy work and the wind did the rest. Live and learn!!! Lucky I had that extra roll of blue aye Ed? Not the cheapest of kits but a fair amount of work is already done. Important also what is done is true and accurate making the build a joy.
Line in the canopy, Patrick looks a little vertically challenged! (I feel a "Pete's pilot might be necessary).Lack of motor mount position on firewall. Last but not least the 2 piece ally legs good but one piece would be better.
Cowl is a work of art, Wing section and tube joiner is excellent, wheel spats are strong. Sheer presence in the air.
| Name: | Sebino |
| Materials: | Wing Obechi on
foam core, balsa capping. |
| Build time: | Best guess! 60 hours ready to go. |
| Areas: | Wing area 775.5 sq ins Tail area 150 sq ins |
| A.U.W. | 8lbs 10ozs (real not fisherman!) |
| Load: | 21.49 ozs per sq ft.(Healthy for the size). |
| Motor (used): | O.S. 108 BX1. Prop 14" x 8" apc |
| Pipe: | Weston mini pipe (Genisis outlet) |
| Fuel: | Pro-synth 10% nitro. Rpm 10,000 on apc 14"X 8" |
| Radio: | 2 x 9204
Rudder and elevator. Throttle mini 9102. |