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SOLITARY BEE (LEAF CUTTER BEE)
The solitary bee, or ‘leaf cutter bee’ is widespread but in England they are
mainly concentrated in the southern counties. This bee, Megachile centuncularis,
normally appears between June and July. Symmetrical holes, round or
oval in shape, are cut from the leaf edges. The bee then builds a cylindrical
tube where a single egg is deposited along with nectar. Many plants
are visited, amongst them roses and fuchsia’s. The bee, which is very
small, may visit a plant many times which results in that particular plant
becoming very ragged in appearance - a disaster if it was intended for a show!
No lasting damage is done to the plants visited and little can be done
to stop this - and in fact bee’s are a protected species. They have
normally ‘been and gone’ before you even get the chance to spot
them. Any specimen plants that you have should be screened with netting
or fleece, or left in the greenhouse where they will be safer - although
the bee will enter these as well.
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VINE WEEVIL

The irregular notches cut from leaves bythe adult vine weevil Otiorhynchus sulcatus
are distinctly different from damage that is done by other pests. The
notches cut will be ragged and are normally always at the leaf edge, although
the centre sections are also eaten. If you suspect vine weevil is the
culprit check the plant (or garden) after dark using a torch. The adult
weevil will normally be found feeding on the underside of leaves. If
disturbed they will drop to the ground. Break the life cycle of this
pest by treating plants and the garden with ‘Armillatox’ and ‘Provado’.
Provado can be used in spray form to kill the adults by contact action -
it will also act systemically against future attack. Any lone weevils
can be killed by crushing.
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SLUGS
AND SNAILS
The damage done by slugs and snails can be quite considerable, but at most
risk are seedlings, young plants or cuttings. Snails and slugs favour
a dark, damp environment so ensure that any leaf litter or rubbish is cleared
from the garden, particularly around plants. The leaves of attacked
plants are shredded, and in some cases this makes them extremely unsightly.
Vulnerable plants and seedlings should be protected using slug pellets, broken
egg shells or any other system that you may favour. Coffee is also supposed
to stop these pests but I have never used this method. The slime trails
left by these pests is usually a good indication of the culprit!
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CATERPILLARS
Leaves that have been attacked by caterpillars are normally quite severely
damaged. The leaf will be eaten in virtually all areas. The caterpillar
may also weave the tips of leaves together using a fine silken web, where
it then feeds in relative safety. Spray infected plants with a systemic
insecticide following manufacturers guidelines. Individual caterpillars, if
spotted, can be removed by hand and destroyed. Some caterpillars feed
on specific plants and will not present no problem to fuchsia’s and pelargoniums.
Others, such as the Tortrix moth will feed on just about any plant that they
reach - these may be seen in early summer hanging from trees and shrubs on
thin silk lines.
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RED SPIDER
MITE

Red spider mite, Tetranychus urticae,
is a serious problem in hot dry weather, although I am sure they are adapting
and have wet suits! The first signs of an attack by this pest will be faint
bronzing or mottling of the upper leaf surface (shown on the lower two leaves).
On inspection of the underside of the leaf (top two leaves) you will
find a yellowish grey discolouration and tiny black and white speckles - which
looks almost like pepper. If you use a magnifying glass you will be
able to see these minute pests. In severe attacks the leaves will shrivel
and dry and the plant will eventually succumb. There will also be a
fine web network noticeable on the plant. When first detected plants
should be sprayed with a systemic or contact insecticide and damaged leaves
removed and burnt - or disposed of in the dustbin. Misting and watering
of the plants and staging in greenhouses also helps to keep their numbers
down. The underside of the leaves, where this pest lives and breeds,
must be sprayed - not always possible if plants are in a border or near to
a pond. There is another mite which is a natural predator,
Phytoseuilus persimilis, which
can be used in controlled environments such as a greenhouse. Not easy to
eradicate as the mite soon builds up resistance to pesticides - which need
to be rotated on a regular basis.
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CAPSID
BUG

Capsid bugs belong to the order of Hemiptera
and the sub-order of Heteroptera and are
likely to attack plants growing in the garden. They have two different types
of wings and stabbing mouthparts. Their damage is restricted to distortion
of immature growing tips, which results in blind growth preventing the formation
of flowers. They are a species closely related to leaf hoppers. Over
two hundred species of capsid exist in the British Isles alone. The
common green capsid, Lygacaris pubulinus,
attacks many different plants including fuchsia's. Spray plants with
a commercial insecticide following the maufacturers guidelines, remove any
distorted or damaged leaves.
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FUCHSIA/PELARGONIUM
RUST

Another very serious disease that affects both fuchsia's and pelargoniums
is rust - although fuchsia rust will not affect pelargoniums and vice versa.
Fuchsia rust, Pucciniastrum epilobii,
will normally be acquired when purchasing new stock where plants have been
kept in close proximity to each other and will spread rapidly unless treated.
Fuchsia rust can be found growing on the native wild flower rose-bay
willow herb and if this plant grows near to your garden it should be destroyed
to stop rust being spread to your plants. The first signs that you may
have rust will be leaves that have a pale brown or reddish marking,
or blotchiness. On inspection of the underside of the leave the yellowish/orange
pustules, which are the spores, will be clearly seen. All infected leaves
should be carefully removed, burnt or placed in a sealed bag and put in the
dustbin. The spores can be easily transported by insects, wind or you
fingers whilst inspecting infected plants. Spray the leaves and soil
with a systemic fungicide such as Dithane 945 or Systhane. Unfortunately,
due to many changes enforced by the EU, many of the fungicides that were in
common use have now been withdrawn.
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