Covering the Hull

Several pages of newspaper are cut into strips about 1" (25mm) wide. These are covered in 'craft PVA' (the type used in primary schools for children to make things) in the same way as hanging wallpaper...

When covered, the strip can be applied to the frame. I start from the middle and work outward both ways...

The second and third strips should completely cover the first, half way each, and each successive strip should half cover the one it's laid on...

The result will be TWO layers thick, each strip of paper glued to the previous one. This is to produce a continuous surface on which to lay the next 'skins'

The stern needs to be covered 'lengthways' starting from the centre (as before) until the strips meet the vertical ones applied before. Cut off any excess length so it just covers the top surface of the frame...

Working toward the front (bow) the curvature will cause the strips to lay at an angle compared to those on the sides. It shouldn't be a problem, just continue and finish with a triangular piece if necessary. You may find the paper is too wet to handle it safely, if so it's OK to allow it too harden a little before continuing...

When it's all covered, put it aside for about 6 hours until completely dry.

Then cover it again, this time starting at the rear and continue forward at an angle, the strips 'lean back' from front to rear (if the hull is thought of the correct way up) The strips are cut so they finish at the centre line of the bottom of the hull and they don't have to overlap each other as before. It's important to smooth out any wrinkles as you go or they'll cause air gaps between the layers, the wet paper can be stretched quite a bit but if all else fails, tear or cut the strip where it crosses the frame and apply the rest separately...

When that's dry, cover it again, this time I've started with a triangle at the rear and work forward using strips angled 'rear to front'

After that's dried, I'm covering it with three complete sheets of paper cut to fit on the base and both sides

...and after that, cover it with (longer) strips running the length of the hull. I started by covering the centre line of the base to just over the 'corner' of the frame, then working down both sides...

...then cover it again but place the strips over the joins between those of the preceeding layer...allow this to set COMPLETELY before going to the next step!

Paint the entire hull with sealer. It would work with sanding sealer but 'celulose dope' used for model aircraft building (thinned 50% with celulose thinners) is better. When completely dried, it should be lightly sanded (any lumpy bits can be heavily sanded!) and re-coated with sealer. This is continued until the sealer dries to a shiny surface all over.

The next pictures show it in the bath. As you can see, I put a jar of paint, can of sanding sealer, reel of solder and the contents of a box of meccano parts into the hull and it still floats much higher in the water than I intend!

Before painting, I glued on a 'fin' (skeg?) under the stern (made from balsa and sealed/sanded) and a length of brass tube for the rudder (in a hole drilled just behind the fin) using araldite and ensuring a good bead of the adhesive to seal the parts to the hull. If you want to add a propeller shaft that also should be done now - then it can be painted (though you may want to attach the deck first!)

The picture shows part of the painted hull (though it's a bit brush marked!) I used exterior gloss as I have some left over from painting the shed, if I'd used some thinner it'd probably have given a better finish. Stll, it doesn't really show how surprisingly smooth and shiny the resulting surface is despite having been 'bodged' somewhat... You can see the layers of paper through the paint (and the four coats of sealer!) If I'd used thinner strips of paper for the final layer, it would have simulated a wooden planked hull :)

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