Anglo-Omani Society sponsored stay at       

The Sultan’s School, Oman January – April 2008

This report compiled by Alex Walsh and Gareth Rhys describes their time at the Sultan's School, Muscat, from January to April 2008. The report gives a good insight as to how the students sponsored by the Anglo-Omani Society benefit from the Student Scheme. To date eleven students have been to the school and a further five are planning to go.

Text Box: Sur fort

 

Our stay at the Sultan’s School gave us a unique opportunity to experience life in the Gulf. Our experiences there gave us an insight to what is rich about Arab society, its people and the natural landscape of Oman.

Oman is an amazing country, for the attitude of the people, its social workings and the multiplicity of contrast and similarity it provides with our own background. The school was a brilliant focus for our exploration. It involved us on every level from teaching to socializing and provided a lot of support for our trips through Oman.

 

On the day of our arrival the school first struck us as peaceful, organized place with its ordered palms and shrubs and its polished marbled entrance. We worked out our timetables: Alex’s had a focus on Maths and English assistance, whilst Gareth opted to help with art and drama, as well as English assistance for the scholars. The following day the school became its usual lively place as the courts flooded with students in dish-dashas. The students were surprised to find us in their classes but responded enthusiastically to the help we offered – more often than not turning the academic questions personal. They were very curious about where we had come from, what we were doing and generally who we were. Soon we settled into our schedules and began to get to know the students we taught. Assisting in the mornings and early afternoons, we often sat in the library later and traded help in reading English for reading Arabic. Many were surprised that we were learning Arabic, but here, as in many situations that would follow we found that having the slightest bit of Arabic tinted with our strange accents (apparently Egyptian) and peculiar vocabulary made for a very intrigued and warm welcome.  

The Arabic department accepted us into their ranks. Overestimating our language level somewhat teachers invited us into their IGCSE Arabic classes. Having found our level we popped into Arabic and Islamic history classes for students of around eight when and as we liked. We were also able to swap English conversation classes for basic Arabic lessons. Sheikha, the assistant librarian was very welcoming, taking us through the collection of Arabic children’s books.

The evenings were a mixture of socialising with the scholars and the teaching staff. Football with the older students in the slightly cooler but sweltering evenings was great fun. We learnt a choice, but nonetheless useful, selection of vocabulary on the football pitch! The staff were as welcoming relaxing in the evenings as they were with their daytime activities, where we were invited to participate in various activities from academic lessons and assemblies to scuba diving, canoeing, hiking, sailing, fitness and ping pong.

The highlights of these extra curricular events were definitely the many sports day, the International Award and the kayak camp. The stadium seating facing the sports field makes for a brilliant tournament atmosphere. The Omanis are an intensely proud people and there was something of the tribe pride about the cheers that rang out for the Dolphin, Hawk, Oryx and Scorpion teams. There seemed no question about participation, where young, eager athletes stumbled and grasped batons prematurely – a situation ominously mirrored by the trip to the naval base where enthusiastic eighth graders grabbed excitedly for live depth charges.

 The Omani attachment to the sea and reminiscence of a naval empire is similar to that of the British, unsurprising in view of their proud naval history. The kayaking camp brought out the maritime in a few of the students. For two night and three days we paddled around the crags and coves around Yiti and As-Sifa

Navigation and fishing were enthusiastically, if not very successfully pursued by the campers. Gareth did have a brush with submarine wildlife when a thresher shark passed under the nose of his kayak when scouting for a place to snorkel! Thankfully, Erin, a New Zealander from the Muscat Dive and Adventure centre guided us capably. She wisely delayed paddling the last stretch as offshore winds and a falling tide that would have made for a speedy trip to deep Gulf.

Mark Evans came to the school to talk about the circumnavigation by kayak he completed under His Majesty’s sponsorship in 2006 for charity. We began to understand his motivation – which must have been immense given that he paddled over 2000 km with full kit – after spending just two days paddling around Oman’s stunning shores. After our modest effort, which included a kilometre race-to-the finish between Gareth and Alex, our shoulders ached and legs were as stiff and salted as hams.

The evening R and Rs during the camps were refreshing nevertheless. The International Award was three days and two nights of trekking through Wadi Bani Auf  – a stunning series of canyons and pools, worthy of National Geographic coverage. Sheer and crumbling cliff walls sink into gravelly flats dotted with coppery pink pools improbably alive with tadpoles. After a few hours walking through the desiccated landscape, we would lay eyes on a date plantation and would dip grazed toes into cool green water. Due to the heavy storm earlier in the year, the pools were unusually full and we were able to jump from ledges into them.

Text Box: Alex and Gareth jumping into a pool in Wadi Bani Auf
Night sank quickly in the wadis and the hikers scattered to forage for firewood in the gloom. The students squatted around the half dozen camp fires whilst they cooked the meat. They seemed comfortable living close to the land in this way. In comparison to neighbouring Gulf states, the development of Oman seems to have been less rash. His Majesty’s limiting of the height of buildings in the Mutrah area is a well known part of this trend, and whilst there may be a few moans over to the comparative growth of the Emirates, it seems that it has allowed society to develop more naturally and gracefully. The boys, soon satiated, brought out the goat skin drums and their songs rang out through the wadis as they must have done for centuries. Electrical entertainment was absent.

We headed out in a borrowed Daewoo to find more. Our favourite destinations were the coasts around Al Sewadi and Tiwi. We are very grateful to Andrew Taylor for showing us these places. Having bargained with a group of fishermen, we were ferried over and spent some nights on the islands ‘Jabal fiy il bahr’ (as we named them) off Al Sewadi, a village west of Muscat. Currently Al Sewadi is almost undeveloped, with a inexpensive beach resort and a children’s park. The settlement there, which has an enormous population of goats, seems very rural. Consequently the nights are silent and star studded. It was an equally amazing experience to subsist from the beach and the sea using an improvised fishing float and crab lines whilst camping at the far more remote and inaccessible Tiwi, east of Muscat.

Unfortunately in some ways, the irrepressible machine of development is about to engulf these spots of astounding beauty. Hampton’s International’s ‘Al-Madina Az-Zarqa’ development plans to create a city with a University, theatres and housing for several tens of thousands of people. Oman’s version of Dubai’s marina developments will replace the playground and the village and the construction east of Tiwi beach brings hotels closer and closer. Nevertheless, we learnt that these places are safeguarded to an extent. Dives off the Damaaniyat Islands are limited in number and no-one can set foot on certain turtle beaches there. We dived here and the submarine flora and fauna was without parallel. A green turtle swam by over the reefs sheltering spiny lobsters, Spanish Dancers, sea horses, lionfish, phenomenally large groupers, rays and alarming numbers and varieties of moray eels. We gulped an hours’ worth of air in forty-five minutes in excitement!

Text Box: Heading further east along the Sultan Qaboos Highway we visited Barka and Sur and their forts. Many of these forts, such as at Barka, are locked up, but not under any apparent preservation scheme. The mud and stone walls crumble under your fingers and insects and rodents have made their homes there. It was a pleasure to be amongst these romantically decaying ruins and probably a privilege too, considering the rate of their decay. Conversely, Sur Fort is a well maintained tourist attraction with ample explanation and a helpful curator. While forts like Sur’s describe the fort’s function in the days of its use, those like Barka offer up a glimpse into the fort’s character as they stand in the sand and wind unaided.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We would like to express our appreciation for all those that helped us with this trip. Amongst all those at the Sultan’s school, Lee Smith, Richard Sawyer, Hazim Abbas, Ian Jones, Ray Zinsli, Abdul Hakeem, Oliver Myhill, Neil Allen, Lee Mullis, Russel Croft, Clive Pierrepont, Seamus O’Hanlon and Victoria Jones helped us a lot.

We are especially grateful to Andy Jones, Head of Boarding and Angela Hargett of the English department. Angela was very generous with her villa, her car and her time. She involved us with the kayaking club and made us feel very at home. Andy was extremely welcoming during our first few days and his hospitality never wore off. He involved us with his family, showed us his favourite spots all around the capital area and lent us his car. He served as a kind of mentor and was never as patient as when we dented the front right wing of his Daewoo. We are also grateful to Principal John Birchall for welcoming us into his school.

 We are also very grateful to the Anglo-Omani Society and its patron His Majesty Sultan Qaboos ibn Said for providing us with the flights, the insurance and the link with the Sultan’s School so that we could enter the tradition of Anglo-Oman relations. We were pleased at the Sutlan’s School to receive Pat Alston from the Society and hope that she enjoyed her visit. We are especially grateful to Col. Nigel Knocker and Mr Richard Owens for their work in the organisation and are looking forward very much making our presentation to the Society when we are back in the United Kingdom.

 

Alex Walsh                                                Gareth Rhys                                                                                                                        Hanoi                                                                      Madrid