BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT
LANDS END TO N.FORELAND POINT

Distance Cycled: 81.26 miles
Elapsed Time: 9h 45m
Cycling Time: 7h 21m
Average Speed: 11.0mph (v.creditable given hills)
Distance To Date: 116 miles
Total Cycling Time: 10h 19m

Rollout was just after 0900. The first few miles were covered on last year's route around cornish creeks steeped in smuggling, boats resting on mudflats, and cornish folk with skin like weathered leather tending their gardens or walking the dog.

As I moved away from the water and the smell of salt disapeared it was replaced by a strong smell of peaches, which I presumed must be from a nearby orchard. After a while with peach still prevalent I assumed there must be a major plantation nearby. Within another 10 mins I could only assume that half of southern Cornwall must be harvesting peach crops. Then I discovered the smell was, in fact,coming from me and was the result of the shower soap provided in the B&B. No chance of me visiting a pub for lunch smelling like this. At least the flies weren't interested (for once).

A Cornish Creek - the same as pictured last year and still the tide hasn't come in

Today was a tale of 3 ferry crossings. The first was the King Harry Ferry, used last year. Upon arrival it was lying just 10 metres offshore being fired up from its slumber. I was the only person waiting on my side. Despite spreading out to look like a crowd the ferry declined to spend 1 minute picking me up and chugged off t'other side to pickup a stream of cars. See first picture for incriminating evidence.

FERRY 1: The King Harry Ferry - so near and yet so far....

Scenes from some beautiful Cornish villages

A lot of the morning was spent on dodgy single track lanes wearing out brake blocks on death-defying descents to isolated, picturesque cornish fishing villages with communities of ageing hippies (felt immediate bonding) and then wearing out knees on excrutiating climbs out of same villages before repeating process. After 2 hours had made little progress and used up all of breakfast fuel.

After reaching good quality B and A roads picked up pace and sped through St. Austell in a blur (best way to see it) after huge, very enjoyable descent to the town.

Reached Fowey for lunch around 1300 and purchased crab baguette (with lemon and pepper as advertised).

Found spare bench by sea wall to enjoy lunch and watch the boating world pass by in warm sunshine with fresh sea breeze.

Serene scene slightly affected shortly after by arrival of pushchair with screaming infant and mum attached. Having confirmed rest of bench was free to enquiry in strong Aussie accent she sat down and whipped out a breast whereupon peace returned. For my part I found myself having to take intense visual interest in my crab baguette, which hitherto had seemed relatively mundane. That was up to the point where the fresh sea breeze started to heave the pushchair over the sea wall whereupon natural heroic instincts took over and rescued it. As she was telling me face-to-face what a very nice man I was her husband returned, eyeing me suspiciously with pushchair in one hand and half-eaten crab baguette in the oher. Made excuses to do with 50 miles still to cycle and left.

The Bike reaches Fowey for lunch

Fowey from the Boddink Ferry crossing the river

Caught the Boddinik ferry across to other sode of R.Fowey, followed by knee-breaking climb up to point where directions said "...turn right at green with seat on it". Did this, hurtled downhill faster than brakes would hold, and returned to point where Boddinik ferry dropped me off, followed by the same knee-breaking climb for good measure. At least it put paid to the smell of peaches. Went past 2nd green with seat on it and turned right.

FERRY 2: The Boddinik Ferry at Fowey

Exquisite cycling followed, with a rolling road, high hedgerows, a myriad of wild flowers, and a rabbit 2ft away at head height who just stared at me.

Reached Looe (see 3rd picture) only to find horrendous climb out on fume filled road with impatient traffic.

Looe in the middle of a Sunday afternoon, just prior to a knee-breaking climb out of the town

Jumped off main road onto alternative single track coastal road with usual near vertical ups and downs. Had high-powered energy bar before the worst of it and cruised to the Torpoint ferry down a bendy road used to improve flat-out cornering techniques by the local motorcycling fraternity. Caught the Torpoint Ferry with the bikers around 1730 and headed out of Conrwall into Devon.

FERRY 3: Torpoint Ferry, with Devon visible on the opposite bank

The only downside to the day was a grim ride out of Plymouth on the A380 Tavistock road. My fault really, having chosen "route 1" due to late hour and intense desire for beer. Elbows out on dual carriageway jostling for space with day-trippers heading home, whilst climbing incessantly. Whilst in queue for lights got shouted at by woman for not using cycle path. Fact was it was turning left and I wasn't. She kept on and on. Probably a member of the town council.

Reached Yulverton only to find had come too far and had to double back onto road across heath, but with no mention of place looking for. Double back again and ask middle-aged couple on bikes neither of whom had their specs or could read my directions. Eventually I read out loud and the wife starts to give directions for 2 miles away. Husband twigs name of house and escorts me to place only 500 metres away in middle of heath. God moves in mysterious ways - I'd never have found it.

Washing was hung up to dry in old spidery greenhouse, had cottage pie+gravy and apple+blackberry crumble+custard as ballast to 2 pints of Guinness, which should provide fuel for Dartmooor (dark and brooding outside the window) tomorrow with rain forecast.

Next Page: Day 2