
“Now glance we back
To time-corroded chronicles of old;
When the fierce Briton pierced his winding track
Through its dark opening to his nightly fold;
And Druid priests, from memory’s book, unroll’d
A portion dire of horrid mysteries.”
Robert MILLHOUSE
“NOTTINGHAM BELOW GROUND” might form the subject of a large and interesting volume. Throughout the town rock-cellars are everywhere prevalent, varying in depth from twenty to thirty-six feet. They are excellent receptacles for ale, and have, no doubt, helped the Nottingham beverage to acquire its renown. Some of the cellars are used as malt-rooms, and, from an early time, malt was made in them in the hottest days of summer quite as well as in winter. Under divers houses on the Long row, Timber hill, and elsewhere, structures of very considerable extent, hewn out of the rock, arched in a regular manner, and supported by columns with carved capitals, &c., framed for places of worship, have been discovered.
DEERING
relates that “one Edward GODDARD, a bricklayer, yet living, assures me that,
being at work on the east side of the Weekday cross, he there got into one of
these subterranean fabricks, which he found supported and adorned with pillars
as has been mentioned, and that he made his way from one spacious place to
another till he came as far as the upper end of Pilcher gate.” Under the Bell
yard, on the Long row, is an extensive cellar, occupied by Messrs. HOMER and
CROSSLAND, wine merchants. This subterranean cave was examined by the
Archaeological Association when they visited the town in 1852, accompanied by
his grace the Duke of Newcastle.
But
of all the caverns of the ancient Troglodytes the most remarkable are the PARK
ROCK-HOLES. Dr. STUKELEY describes these excavations on the north bank of the
Leen as consisting of a church, houses, chambers, dove-houses, &c, - the
church resembling those in the rocks of Bethlehem and other places in the holy
land. LAIRD, writing in 1820, says, “It has suffered considerably from the
effects of time and weather since STUKELEY wrote; but enough still remains to
invite and , at the same time, to gratify curiosity. The outer part has fallen
down in several places, evidently from the effects of damp and frost; but the
church and altar, and even some vestiges of the ancient paintings, may be
clearly traced. Some ingenious artist has added a number of paintings,
such as elephants, &c,” The “papists’ holes” have been put in order, whitewashed,
glazed in front, and converted into banqueting rooms, &c., in connexion
with the bowling green. Excavations exist in a rock facing the queen’s garden,
in the Park; on the Derby road; in Narrow marsh; on the High, Middle, and Low
pavements; and on the Mansfield road. Some of the caves on the Mansfield and
Radford roads have been formed by poor persons excavating for sand.
The
TOWN WALL. - About 910 the town was fortified by Edward the Elder with a strong
wall and a ditch. In 1797 the ditch could be traced near the castle hill, and
northwards towards Chapel bar. The wall was flanked with towers and buttresses.
By portions of the ditch, revealed by the opening of new streets on the
north-western side of the town, it appears to have been from twelve to fifteen
feet wide, six feet deep, and chiefly cut out of the solid rock. The wall and
ditch joined the outer defences of the castle on the western side, and thence
ran in a northerly direction by Park row to Chapel bar. The ancient wall did
not include Carter gate, Fisher gate, or the Narrow and Broad marsh, which,
with the streets and buildings lying between the Meadows and the south rock of
the town, constituted a suburban district situated without the walls.
The
last ancient gate, CHAPEL BAR, was pulled down in 1743. It contained two arched
rooms, one serving as a guard-room, the other as a chapel for the convenience
of the guard. Previous to its destruction it had been transformed into a
brewhouse, and was so occupied by Thomas HAWKSLEY, an alderman and mayor of the
town. A little flower garden at the top of the archway was famous for the
variety and the superiority of its tulips. A bridge thrown across the town
ditch, near a postern which stood on what is now Park row, gave to the spot the
name of “BOSTON BRIDGE,” a corruption of Postern bridge. The ditch was
converted into kitchen gardens. Henry II rebuilt the town wall. The modern wall
passed, north of the castle wall, along Park row to Chapel bar, like the old
fabric; thence it proceeded through the yard of the Spread Eagle inn, where
part of the wall still exists, forming the greater part of the north end of Mr.
RAYNOR’s stable - down the north side of Parliament street, along Parliament
row, where it joined Edward’s wall at the end of Stoney street; thence in
succession, to Coalpit lane, Old Glasshouse lane, Carter gate, Fisher gate,
Hollow stone, High, Middle, and Low pavements, Castle gate; finally rejoining
the castle wall at Brewhouse yard.
The
CROSSES, formerly numerous, are now totally obliterated. There was the
Hen-cross, “east of Timber hill, at the point where four streets met,” at the
distance of twelve yards from what is now the “Elizabethan House;” the Weekday
cross, in the centre of the open space at the Guild-hall; the Malt cross, at
the west end of the Long row, near Sheep lane, where all proclamations and
declarations were usually made; and the Butter cross, on the east side of the
Market place, near the shambles.
An
ANCIENT BATTLE-FIELD exists in the neighbourhood. On a hill near Nottingham, at
the commencement of the year 1827, more than 200 skeletons were dug up in
removing sand. MILLHOUSE, in a note to his poem of Sherwood Forest, suggests
that they were the remains of the slain in some forgotten battle, at the time
of the Saxon invasion.
At
the southern entrance to the town there stood a steep rock, connected with the
town wall. The narrow passage through this formidable barrier was secured by a
portcullis of great strength, marks of which could be seen little more than a
century ago. This was the HOLLOW STONE. Within the gate there was a cavity in
the rock, situated “on the left hand going up to the town,” and just at the
elbow of the stone. This apartment was fitted up with benches and a fire-place,
and here a score of men could make themselves comfortable. A staircase cut in
the solid rock led to its summit, and hither the sentinel might repair
occasionally to renew the look-out. In December, 1740, a house on the Hollow stone,
belonging to the Duke of Kingston, was, by his Grace’s permission, levelled;
the descent was rendered more gradual, and the roadway widened so that two or
more carriages might conveniently pass each other.
“About
a mile from Nottingham,” says THROSBY, “at a place called Nottingham hill, are
some lines of fortification, between which are three or four of these sort of
eminences which are now called BARROWS, in one of which have been found great
quantities of human bones.
The
MOOT HALL stood on the spot subsequently occupied by the Feather’s Inn, and now
by the wine and spirit vaults of Mr. John BROWN, Wheeler gate. In 1750 some of
the ruins were visible. The structure was raised after the Norman Conquest; and
was for the newly-created Norman borough, what the Guild-hall was for the
English.
In
1777, a number of human bones in a good state of preservation, a dagger, and
two coins, were found by workmen digging on Standard hill.
Among
the OLD HOUSES, the Green Dragon public-house, on the Long row, built in 1615,
was the oldest brick house extant in the time of Dr. DEERING; the window frames
of this building were of stone. A highly interesting specimen of ornamental
plaster-work was recently brought to light on an old house in St. Peter’s gate.
In 1503 the first house in the town with at tiled roof was built on the Long
row; at the beginning of the last century this house was occupied as the
Unicorn Inn, and afterwards it passed into the possession of Mr. STANTON. Besides
being the first it was somewhat singularly the last roof of the kind on the
row. From an early period there were several houses of Jews, as also a
synagogue in Nottingham, and from the particular people inhabiting this spot,
one of the thoroughfares in the town, was called Jew lane. The most remarkable
ancient houses still remaining are in Peter gate; an old building in Bottle
lane commonly known as “King John’s palace;” the Old Bear Inn, Chapel bar; the
Talbot Inn, Long row; the house on the Long row occupied by Mrs. PICKERING,
hosier; a public house in Chandler’s lane; two or three in Wheeler gate; one in
St. Nicholas’s street; a curious old brick house in Castle gate, two centuries
old; most of these have been remodelled
There
are still in our utilitarian age remnants left of those OLD MANSIONS, in which
our nobility and gentry were wont to reside, before the spirit of
centralization carried them to London. We can see shreds of those buildings,
the
“Lodgings once of Kings and Nobles, silken stirs and
trumpet’s din.”
But as we linger for a moment within their walls we must exclaim:
“ ’Tis past ! and never more shall these walls ring
With dance and song, and music’s dulcet strains;
Beauty will here no more her daughters bring,
Nor stately pleasure shake her golden chains.”
PLUMTRE
HOUSE, Stoney street, built early in the eighteenth century, is now partly
occupied as a seminary. It was sold at auction in 1853, for £8,410. The
property was offered by the same auctioneer in 1841, and would have been sold
at that time for £4,000, but no sufficient bidder was found for it.
BROMLEY
HOUSE, on the south side of the Market-place, one of the largest and best built
mansions in the town, was erected by Sir George SMITH, baronet, whose son took
the name of BROMLEY, and removed to Stoke.
BUGGE
HALL, the town residence of the BUGGES, was afterwards possessed by the
BLACKWELLS, and transformed into the Old Angel Inn, St. Mary’s gate, now pulled
down.
THURLAND
HALL, (called Clare Hall,) was the property of the Duke of Newcastle; it stood
in Pelham street.
A
hundred years ago the county nobility and gentry did not think it degrading to
spend a large portion of their time in the old provincial city on the banks of
the Trent. In the days of DEERING eleven townsmen kept coaches or chariots; a
considerable number besides had chaises and chairs. In 1853 there is not one
person in the borough who regularly maintains his carriage and horses.
In a
mansion on the Low pavement, now occupied by Mr. BIDDULPH, resided the Hon.
Rothwell WILLOUGHBY, brother of Lord MIDDLETON.
In
Castle gate still stands the house occupied a hundred years ago by Mrs.
NEWDEGATE; here Marshal TALLARD, who was taken at Blenheim, by MARLBOROUG,
spent the period of his captivity in the cultivation of fruits and flowers, and
the initiation of Nottingham bakers into the mysteries of the French roll
manufactury. In addition to TALLARD, many other distinguished prisoners taken a
Blenheim, were likewise sent to Nottingham.
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1999.
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