CLOTH

The first manufactory established in Nottingham existed before the reign of King John, who, by his charter of 1199 sought to encourage within the borough the making of dyed woollen cloth. After the loss of Calais, in the reign of Mary, the manufacture gradually declined, and at length expired. Among the later additions tot he industrial occupations of this busy town is the making of cloth as well as Indian shawls and fancy goods, from the lace machine. More recently, cloth of a superior character has been manufactured from the round hose-frame. Besides being equal to ordinary cloth in the firmness of the fabric, it is considerably superior in elasticity. In February, 1839, a specimen of woollen cloth made from the stocking-frame was exhibited. A contemporary account says "It seems to promise very superior results to the manufactures of the midland counties. To the eye and the touch it has all the appearance of loom-wove cloth, but sets the most powerful glasses at defiance to discover, by the texture and form of the threads, how it is made."

Worsted Mills

In 1809 the works belonging to ARKWRIGHT's mill, Hockley, were sold, and in two years after it was converted into a worsted mill, with an engine of fourteen-horse power, by COLE, HUDDLESTON, and PHIPPS. The Rev. Edmund CARTWRIGHT obtained four patents for combing sheep wool; Mr. HAWKSLEY also obtained a patent for the same purpose. In 1788, Robert DAVISON and John HAWKSLEY erected a worsted mill on the banks of the Leen, on the spot now known as Navigation row: this mill was burnt down in 1791. The same parties erected another mill on a very expensive scale, driven by an engine of sixty-horse power, on Arnot hill, on the road to Arnold. In 1809 this mill stopped. In 1810 Mr. HAWKSLEY built another mill in Butcher's close; but his already numerous difficulties increased, and he died suddently in 1815. The mill was immediately stopped and sold for the benefit of his creditors.

Silk Mills

There have been various silk mills in Nottingham - ELLIOTT's, in Sheep lane; BOLTON's on the Low pavement; WATSON & NELSON's, in Fletcher gate; and that of FELLOW's, in Turncalf alley, the only one of any importance in 1815.

Cotton

Nottingham occupies an important position in reference to this branch of manufacture. It is a remarkable fact that in Nottingham have been originated, and fostered into activity and usefulness, nearly every important invention connected with the early history of the cotton trade. For instance, PAUL, having spun cotton by machinery in 1734, and removed to Nottingham, his plan was improved there by JAMES and FOSTER. HARGREAVES, driven thither by riotous women, spun eighty-four threads at once, and patented his machine, which being pirated he was ruined. HAYES and ARKWRIGHT, having spun cotton yarn by rollers, the latter went to Nottingham, taking out his patents of 1769 and 1772 in connexion with NEED, a hosier, and built his first mill in that town. There, also, Mr. Samuel CARTLEDGE, in 1805, was the first who caused fine cotton yarns, spun by Mr. HOULDSWORTH, to be doubled and applied to the manufacture of lace, which until then had been made entirely of flax thread or silk.

The prominent positions occupied by HARGREAVES and ARKWRIGHT demand, however, somewhat more than a passing notice both of themselves and their labors. HARGREAVES on arriving in Nottingham found a patron in Thomas JAMES, and, having with difficulty procured a patent, he built a small factory in Mill street, where he constructed his famous spinning "jenny." His invention was soon pirated by the Nottingham hosiers; and when HARGREAVES threatened to enforce his patent, a coalition was at once formed by his opponents, and the ingenious inventor shrank from the expensive contest. He died at his house in Nottingham, in 1778, aged sixty years, in obscurity and distress. The factory in which the jenny first operated stands at the north-east corner of Mill street (Wollaton street). The house in which HARGREAVES dwelt can still be pointed out on the opposite side of the street.

HENSON states that John HAYES, an acquaintance of HARGREAVES resident in Preston, Lancashire, first conceived the idea of spinning by machinery, and that the secret was wormed out of him by a barber in his neighbourhood, "of the name of ARKWRIGHT," afterwards the celebrated Sir Richard ARKWRIGHT. After he had got possession of the idea ARKWRIGHT repaired to Nottingham, where, not having the model of his machine, he commenced the business of a barber in Bridlesmith gate. But he was by no means devoted to the businessl. At length he obtained a patron in Mr. NEED, an influential hosier; a patent was procurred in 1769, and he immediately set about building a mill in Hockley. As little success, however, attended his labors, NEED, who had expended £1200, resolved to entrust his plans to no one. He met with Coniah WOOD, a practical turner, by the aid of whose suggestions he was destined at length to crown his labors with success. ARKWRIGHT disarranged the whole of his machinery, and with WOOD's assistance re-arranged, remodelled, and in part rebuilt it. The couple hardly desisted night or day from their labors. They wrought like men "possessed." The new modelled apparatus was fixed in a large room, in which, for security, two beds were placed behind a partition; and it was mutually agreed that if a new idea occurred to either of them in the course of the night he was to awake the other, and instantly endeavour to carry out the idea while it was in full force. At length their assuduity was rewarded, and in 1755 good level cotton yarn was spun, for which another patent was procurred. ARKWRIGHT's mill, which was afterwards burnt down, occupied the site of the present mill in Hockley, opposite the end of Coalpit lane. From HENSON's account it would seem that the Nottingham hosiers, far from feeling grateful to ARKWRIGHT, harassed him perpetually "by seducing his workmen, invading his patent, and forming combinations to distress him by every means in their power."

The Hosier and Lace Trades.

Dr. DEERING and John BLACKNER are the earliest historians who have attempted to give an account of the frame-working trade. The principal work on the subject is that by Gravenor HENSON, entitled "The Civil, Political, and Mechanical History of the Framework Knitters, in Europe and America." William FELKIN, esquire, has published many useful papers on the hosiery and lace trades, which must prove invaluable to the future historian, and of which we have availed ourselves in the following pages.

The petition of the framework knitters to CROMWELL, claiming to be incorporated under the great seal like the other trade companies of London, along with the charter they then obtained, is the earliest document connected with the history of the hosiery trade. The construction of the stocking-frame was first contemplated in 1586; it was completed in 1589. Singularly enough it had its origin according to some historians, in disappointed love. The Rev. William LEE, curate of Calverton, in this county, (a native of Woodborough, near Nottingham, and heir to a considerable estate,) paid his addresses to a young lady, whose capricious temper or positive indifference prompted her, whenever he was present, to pay more heed to her knitting than to the reverend lover. The curate thereupon became disgusted, and in revenge set about devising a scheme that would effectually supersede the favourite employ of the cold fair one. He sacrificed everything to the new idea. To the original feeling of revenge was soon added anticipation of success, and visions of ample fortune drove the once-loved one from his heart, and all her subsequent endeavours to get back his favor proved ineffectual. The curacy was despised and soon abandoned, as gigantic prospects rose upon the view. This version of the story HENSON gave on the authority of an ancient stocking-maker who died in Collin's Hospital, Nottingham, aged 92, and who was apprenticed in Nottingham during the reign of Queen Anne; the tale was likewise supported by the testimony of other veterans, and in some measure by the arms of the London Company of framework-knitters, which consist of a stocking frame without the wood-work, with a clergyman on one hand and a woman on the other as supporters. Mr. LEE's first apprentice was Sir WILLIAM, afterwards Lord, HUNSDON, whose powerful interposition with Queen Elizabeth failed in procuring for the inventor a grant of money. LEE's bright anticipations were never realized, and his unfortunate career closed in Paris in 1619. Subsequently his brother James returned to Nottingham were he was joined by an "old confederate," ASTON the miller. Having discovered the method of making frames with lead sinkers, they were favourably situated at Thoroton - Sherwood Forest producing a kind of sheep covered with wool of the largest staple. In 1641, which witnessed the practical inauguration of the second Charles's charter, Nottingham and it's neighbourhood contained more than one hundred frames, and two hundred workmen. Charles II., by his charter, restricted the manufacture to a metropolitan company, but a spirited Nottingham artizan successfully resisted its claims in a court of law, and ever since the stocking manufacture has continued to be open.

The machine for making "tuck ribs" was introduced between the years 1735 and 1742. Between 1732 and 1750 eight hundred frames were brought from London to Nottingham. About this time the manufacture of silk gloves and mitts was introduced from Spain, and it was prosecuted chiefly in Nottingham. In 1758 Jedediah STRUTT produced the Derby rib machine; from this invention has risen the making of open-work mittens, gloves, pantaloons, shirts, and fancy articles. In 1745 the London hosiers had frames built at Nottingham, which they put into the hands of journeymen as superintendents. Mr. Charles VILLIERS, a descendant of George VILLIERS, Duke of Buckingham, the favorite of James I., was a master stocking maker, and kept a large shop of silk frames. It was by his exertions chiefly that the English silk and cotton stockings became decidedly superior in shape to those of any other country.

Between 1727 and 1753, the frames in Nottingham increased from 400 to 500. At the latter date the charge of frame-rent was first imposed upon the journeyman. In 1730, a workman, named DRAPER, residing in Bellar gate, made the first pair of cotton stockings produced in England. For infringing the Derby rib patent several Nottingham hosiers were prosecuted. In 1773, Mr. NEED, of Nottingham, became a partner with Mr. STRUTT. MR. MORRIS, of Nottingham, was the first patentee of the tuck presser with the rib machine, invented at Mansfield. The wooden platting machine being sold to FELLOWS, of Nottingham, he built a factory at the Weekday cross, and obtained a patent for the method, which eventually led to the discovery of making bobbin lace by machinery. Robert FROST, of Arnold, near Nottingham, afterwards invented an improved slide tickler; and in 1778, a person named BROADHURST, of Nottingham, discovered a very superior way of making the cylinder tickler net machine, which was eventually carried to France. HAMMOND, who invented the dogs to the tickler machine, and his wife were drunkards. The couple were together at a public-house, when an idea struck HAMMOND as his eyes rested on his wife's cap, which had a broad lace border and caul, that he could make cauls to imitate those she wore. He betook himself to his frame in the Rookery, and before night, with the aid of his wife, produced three caps. In this circumstance originated the making of lace from the stocking-frame. The spoon tickler is ascribed by some to Thomas TAYLOR, a frame-smith, of Nottingham; by others to John LINDLEY, senior. For making point net by machinery, TAYLOR obtained a patent, which he soon sold to Mr. MORRIS. That gentleman sold his business to three brothers, from Ashbourne, in Derbyshire, named John, William, and Thomas HAYNE. So small a value did MORRIS set upon the patent he had purchased from TAYLOR, that he made a present of it to the young firm. John or William HAYNE effected great improvements on the point net machine, by which the net was made a sound fabric, and came into extensive demand. William HAYNE, who took to himself the credit of these improvements, in his speeches to the workpeople was wont to display his hands, exclaiming, "Remember, these fingers first ran lace." The Messrs. FROST also effected some valuable improvements. Though the invention was originally introduced in England, the foreign manufacturers soon produced a superior article, and French lace was actually bought by the Notingham manufacturers. Mr. Thomas FROST, brother to Robert, went abroad, and devised the most ingenious machine for making figured point lace of any required pattern; and subsequently, discovered a new method of making lace by combining the tuck presser, and a new method of delivering the loop, called a knot. According to tradition, a man, named BRADDER, who practised from about 1755 to 1785, was the first setter-up. The machine for making square net was built upon the principle of William GREEN, an ingenious setter-up. This species of net was made into mitts, gloves, purses, handkerchiefs, and wig linings; the last frame, employed in Nottingham, ceased to work in 1812. It is necessary that the general reader should know that all these varied results were produced from the stocking-frame built upon the principle of William LEE, and which, by still further modifications, eventually led to the fabrication of the machinery now used for the manufacturer of point and warp lace.

The knotted stocking-machine was greatly improved by Centlivre STEVENSON, of Nottingham. The patentees of the knotted stocking-frame had an establishment at Nottingham, where the invention was soon pirated, but without success. Debarred from using the knotting-machine, but desirous of fabricating an article resembling the knotted work, a poor Nottingham workman, named BROCKLEY, ingeniously contrived to effect his purpose by the aid of the tickler machine: he applied to it as many ticklers as needles, and unwittingly inaugurated a new era in the hosiery manufactory. Robert ASH subsequently produced an elastic twilled fabric from the tickler machine. Samuel HAGUE, a person who had received an excellent education, and pursued the avocations of baker and schoolmaster, successfully devoted his genius to the perfecting of these fabrics. His invention was termed stump work, and was sold for a small sum to the Messrs. WATSON, eminent hosiers of Nottingham.

A patent was obtained for the mesh tickler by John EATON and John SHACKLETON. HAGUE's relations were wont to relate that he and EATON mutually agreed to obtain a patent for the invention, but that by some indirect means it was taken out in the name of the other party; the result being that he sustained considerable loss and died very poor.

There had been lately introduced into this trade the objectionable practice of employing parish apprentices, but the work they produced was so inferior that the unpopular innovation was abandoned.

About 1776 300 frames were broken near Nottingham, because they were employed upon spurious or under-fashioned work. Notwithstanding all the skill, industry, and capital employed, the hosiery trade, though enlarging the number of its frames and the amount of its production, has during the last fifty years suffered many depressions in the rate of wages, unattended by corresponding improvements in speed. In 1812 BLACKNER enumerated 29,590 frames; though in 1811, owing to the extreme privations of the hands, 687 machines had been destroyed by Luddism. A list of 101 inventions up to 1828 has been compiled by Mr. Gravenor HENSON, and to that list probably as many more might now be added - including the ingenious rotary steam knitting frame of Mr. WHITWORTH (which is the only one nearly, if not entirely, constructed on other principles than those of LEE), Mr. THORNBURN's, a curious one said to be Mr. BRUNELL's, and some others. Hose, entirely fashioned by the scissors, are made by steam, and many frames are putting on to work by power. In no trade have more unremitting, better directed, or, on the whole, more successful efforts been made; the entire machine-wrought lace trade has sprung from them. Owing to the marked superiorityof foreign goods over those of this country, the home trade became so much depressed that riots and general distress prevailed, and foreign manufactures had to be forbidden admission into the country.

In 1776-7 an extensive association of workmen was formed to enforce the bye-laws of the long inoperative company, and so powerful was the branch in Nottingham that they had the entire control of returning the members to parliament.

In 1778 D. PARKER COKE, esquire, M.P. for Derby, presented a petition from the framework-knitters of Nottingham, representing that "notwithstanding their utmost industry, they were incapable of providing the common necessaries of life." Inadequate wages and frame-rent were the evils complained of. The long mooted, and, till the present moment, much vexed question of frame-rent created the most painful excitement. It was complained by the workmen that rent amounting to 14 per cent. on the cost of the frames was charged, while the wear did not exceed 4 per cent. It being thought by the employed that the hosiers did not pay sufficient attention to their claims, they held "indignation meetings," at which the masters were lampooned and denounced in unmeasured terms. The copper coin of deteriorated value, then in circulation was also made the subject of indignant remonstrance. In 1779 the framework-knitters once more asked for legislative interference. Mr. SMITH, the member for the borough, brought in a bill, but it was thrown out. The most alarming disturbances now occurred, and a great number of frames were broken. The magistrates were stunned by the tact, rapidity, and systematic movements of the mob. Only one rioter, a man named MEPHRINGHAM, was brought to trial. To the alarm of his friends he was charged with a capital offence, but the only witness of importance, Benjamin LEAVERS, was carried off in the dead of the night to Charnwood Forest, and subsequently to Essex, where he was detained till the trial was over; and MEPHRINGHAM was acquitted.

In 1768 two persons, CRANES and PORTER, obtained a patent for making brocade work upon the stocking frame; this branch of manufacture is now obsolete.

During the reign of Luddism, extending from 1811 to 1816, one thousand frames were destroyed in Nottinghamshire by the operatives. Lace machines were also broken. The sole object of the rioters was an advance of wages. The plan adopted by these midnight prowlers was to assemble in partied, disguised and armed, of from six to sixty, under a supposed leader, styled "Little David," afterwards "Ned" or "General Ludd." In 1811 an act of parliament was passed, making it death to break a stocking or lace frame. In March, 1812, seven frame-breakers were sentenced to transportation. In April, Mr. TRENTHAM, a manufacturer was shot near his own door, but happily the wound did not prove mortal. In 1814 the Luddites attacked the house of Mr. GARTON, at Basford, but he, being apprised of their intention, returned the fire of his assailants. One of the Luddites fell, and the rest retreated, and in their flight shot dead, at his own door, Mr KILBY, who lived close by. On the 9^th of June, 1816, the Luddites broke nineteen lace frames in the houses of Mr. W. WRIGHT and Mr. Thomas MULLEN. This was the last act of Luddism, its mistaken votaries having discovered, that their destructive practices were in the end more injurious to themselves than their employers, whose losses had to be borne by the county rate. The state of Nottingham during this period may be judged from the number of unemployed families who were relieved in the three parishes on the 30^th of January, 1812; these amounted to 4,248, consisting of 15,350 individuals, or nearly one-third of the population. In 1831 the hosiery trade employed fewer hands in Nottingham, Lenton, Beeston, Radford, Basford, Arnold, and Sneinton, than it did in 1811, when there were 2,600 frames in the town, and 900 in Old and New Radford. According to a return, compiled by Mr. FELKIN, there were in 1845 in Nottinghamshire, 14,875 stocking frames in use, and 1,500 lying still. As all the latter are now in operation besides a considerable number of new ones, there cannot be fewer at the present moment than 17,000 machines used in the county.

The introduction of the circular frame in 1851, ascribed to M. CLAUSSEN, has had the effect of centralizing the hosiery manufacture. Hitherto small workshops and large warehouses have been the characteristic features of the Nottingham lace and hosiery trades - the poor rooms of small dwellings have been the most numerous of the workshops: but CLAUSSEN's roundabout has led to the establisment of many large factories; and now, instead of being scattered in the detached dwellings of the operatives, as was the case with the old-fashioned frame, the stockings can be manufactured by steam power. Thus the amount of hosiery has increased, while at the same time an immense pecuniary saving has been affected. The factory of Messrs. HINE, MUNDELLA, and Co., in Station street, one of the handsomest buildings in the town, is the best specimen of the new class of factory yet erected.

On the introduction of the new circular machinery it was thought that wide stocking-frames would go out of use, and in some instances they were laid aside; now, however, all in working order are not only fully employed, but considerable numbers of them that were worth little more than the price of old iron a few months ago are in the hands of the framesmiths for the purpose of being recruited. Some of the manufacturers could find employment for twice the quantity of frames now working to them, but neither additional hands nor extra machinery can be met with.

At the Industrial Exhibition of 1851 prize medals were awarded to the following Nottingham hosiers: ALLEN and SOLLY, who exhibited a selection of articles showing the improvement in the trade, especially in the materials used at the dates 1700, 1790, 1804, 1810, 1812, 1815, 1826, and 1848; HURST and Sons; R. and J. MORLEY; and THURMAN, PIGOTT, and Co. Honorable mention was made by the jury of John LART and Son, inventors and manufacturers, for article of clothing fashioned to fit the bust and waist of the wearer; R. and J. MUSSON, John SHAW, of Radford, and John RICHARDS, junior, of Riste place, the maker of hose exhibited by R. and J. MORLEY.

On Christmas day, 1852, the Nottingham trade correspondent of the "Times" described in glowing terms the present prosperity of trade and the happiness of the workpeople, averring that if the average weight of the stocking-makers of the midland counties had been ascertained seven years ago, and contrasted with their weight at that present time, there was not the slightest doubt but they would "average from two to three stones heavier, while the comfort of their condition had gone very far to eradicate mischievous political and theological dogmas from their minds."

Fifty years ago Lace made by machinery was mostly from the point-net and warp-machines, both modifications of the original stocking-frame. Since then incredible sums of money have been expended, valuable lives sacrificed by intense study, a great number of patents taken out, and nearly as many differently constructed machines built for the production of plain and ornamental lace of every description. In none of the textile fabrics have there been so many combinations of machinery used to effect the purpose as in the making of lace. All of these, except the warp machine, disappeared when the bobbin-net machine was introduced. Several ingenious men - among whom we may mention James TARRATT, Robert BROWN, George WHITMORE, and Edward WHITTAKER - successively attempted to produce net composed of threads twisted round one another by machinery, showing the same result as lace made upon the pillow. At length, in 1809, Mr. John HEATHCOAT, of Tiverton, then of Loughborough, put together and patented the ingenious machine which as become so extensively known as the bobbin-net machine. Its use was at that time circumscribed by the cost of production, but now its nature has been so simplified, and its productive powers so increased, that the quantity which was formerly sold for thirty shillings may now be purchased for three-pence. Several important improvements have also been effected by the family of the LEAVERS, by Mr. ROE, Mr. William CROFT, and Mr. John BERTIE. The plait-net machine was the invention of the unfortunate criminal, Jeremiah BRANDRETH.

Up till 1808, the practice in the trade was to measure lace by the rack, but, being deemed unjust to the hands, it was abandoned in 1810.

In 1810 there were at least 15,000 frames at work, affording employment to from 10,000 to 15,000 persons. During the French war the people of the town would probably have famished but for this point lace. Yet when BLACKNER wrote, it's inventor was in poverty. In 1808 the manufacture of cotton point lace was at its zenith. More than 600 frames of the first quality were employed in it. In 1815 scarcely a yard of it was made.

In 1823, when Mr. HEATHCOAT's fourteen years' patent expired, all Nottingham went mad. Everybody wished to make bobbin-net. For more than two years ruinous speculation prevailed. Machines and houses sprang up like mushrooms, and hundreds of mechanics poured into the town. The markets were soon glutted, and the bubble burst in 1825, when many of the London and country banks came down. In 1823-4-5 LEAVERS machine sold at from £90 to £100; a year or two afterwards they were thrown piecemeal into the streets; and in 1834 one-third of all the machinery had passed out of the hands of the original owners.

The first person who produces cotton net was Mr. PAGE, of Nottingham. After repeated efforts on the LEAVER, circular, pusher, and traverse warp machines, in 1831-2, plans were adopted to purl and bullet-hole the edges of narrow laces; the same was done on the pusher and circular machines. At this period, also, a patent was taken out by William SNEATH of Ison Green, and sold to James FISHER, of Radford, for spotting on the circular machine; and soon after another was taken out by Richard BIRKIN, of basford, for spotting on the LEAVER machine. About 1839 a pusher machine was worked with cards the width of the net, by Mr. WRIGHT, of Radford: the same application was made to the circular machine by Mr. CROFTS, who has taken out several patents for various improvements in nearly every description of bobbin-net machinery. The application of the Jacquard progressed slowly till 1841, when a plan, discovered by Hooton DEVERILL, was bought and patented by Messrs. BIDDLE and BIRKIN, for applying the Jacquard to the guide bars. At the present time there is scarecely a machine at work, except those adapted purposely for plain net, to which the Jacquard has not been applied. The plain net made and patented in 1838 by Mr. CROFTS was not extensively manufactured till the successful application of the Jacquard. Such an impetus did the trade receive from this that hundreds of useless or "worked up" machines were brought into active and profitable use, many of their owners after spending from £80 to £100 being able to realize this outlay in three or four weeks. New sources of manufacture speedily developed themselves, such as flounces, scarfs, shawls, and window curtains; but a drawback was experienced from the circumstance of manufacturers having for a long time to resort to the continent for designs. The evil was, however, remedied by the cordial assistance which the government afforded to the establishment of a school of design, and Nottingham has now a large body of clever local designers. At the Exposition of 1851 the jury in class 19 reported as follows: "Nottingham, long celebrated for her machine-made lace, has, on this occasion, furnished indubitable proof that her manufacturers and artisans have been progressing in the same ratio as those in most other branches of industry during the last half-century.

At the present time, among the infinite variety of articles manufactured by the bobbin-net machines, are: Black silk piece net ornamented, shawls, scarfs, flounces, trimming laces, blondes in white and colors, cotton edgings, laces, and insertions, linen laces, muslin edging and laces, fancy piece net, spotted net, plait net; curtains, bed-covers, and blinds employing above 100 machines; silk and cotton, plain net, Mechlin grounds, blonde, Brussels, or extra twist, employing upwards of 2,000 machines.

The machines at present in use are the following: The "LEAVERS," so called after John LEAVERS, the original constructor, a specimen of which at work was shown in the Great Exhibition by Mr. BIRKIN; the "pusher;" the "circular," originally constructed by Mr. MORLEY, of Derby (late of Nottingham); and a few "traverse warp machines." There is a smaller number of machines now than in 1836, but, though numerically less, the power of production is materially increased. Arrangements have been made in many of the machines for completely finishing, or embroidering, the produce, thus dispensing with "lace-runners." In 1852 the number of bobbin-net machines in full operation was 3,200; total number of quarters, 34,382, giving employment to 5,556 men, 6,859 women and children, and representing a capital of £1,329,445. This is exclusive of buildings and machinery for working the same, and also of machinery and stock for silk-throwing, cotton-spinning, dyeing, bleaching, and dressing; for smiths, bobbin and carriage, guide, comb, and point makers, embroidering, carding, mending, &c., estimated at £1,616,500, in which occupations 113,300 hands are regularly employed. Total capital, £2,965,945. Number of hands employed, 133,015. Annual amount of business returns, £2,300,000.

Mr. Richard BIRKIN, lace-manufacturer, who in the year 1851, was mayor of Nottingham, and who from an humble position in life has raised himself to an honorable and useful eminence among his fellow townsmen, was reporter of the jury for class 19, in the Great Exhibition. In the report of that jury we find an excellent account of the lace trade. We also find that many prizes were bestowed on Nottingham manufacturers and designers. Prize medals were awarded to BALL, DUNNICLIFFE and Co., for a warp lace machine; R. BIRKIN, for a bobbin-net lace machine, with Jacquard. In the supplementary report on design the jury make especial mention of designs exhibited by H. HEALD, (designer), HEYMANN and ALEXANDER, and R. BIRKIN. A council medal was awarded to BALL, DUNNICLIFF, and Co., Nottingham, for velvet and Simla lace; and prize medals to the subjoined Nottingham manufacturers and designers: - FISHER and ROBINSON, GREASLEY and HOPCROFT, B. HEALD (designer), HEYMANN and ALEXANDER, MALLETT and BARTON, RECKLESS and HICKLING, Thomas ROBINSON (for curtains exhibited by HEYMANN and ALEXANDER), H. STEEGMANN and Co., William VICKERS, WHITLOCK and BILLIARD. Honorable mention was made by the jury of ADAMS and Sons, Henry HEALD (student at the government school of design), Thomas HERBERT and Co., and Samuel TURTON (designer).

The colors dyed in Nottingham do not generally equal those of the colored and silk goods dyed for the London, Manchester, and Coventry trades, but it is satisfactory to know that it is practicable to effect this improvement, as there is water in the district well adapted for securing the desired brilliancy of color. In 1808 eighteen hundred point-net frames were at work in the neighbourhood of Nottingham. About this time BROWN and PINDAR made silk lace from what they termed an upright warp frame: in 1810 one hundred and twenty of these were at work in the town, the wages of the workmen being never less than fifty shilling per week. In a short period lace was made from the horizontal warps, and the uprights became useless. BROWN and COPESTAKE invented what was called Mechlin net, which soon superseded the point net. In a short time 430 frames were making it; the wages of the workmen averaging four guineas per week, and the cotton costing fifteen guineas per lb. KIRKLAND made an imitation Mechlin lace called "two-course" net, and DAYCOCK invented another kind of silk lace known as "blonde." The latter still forms a considerable branch of the lace trade: at first the work-men engaged in it made ten pounds per week. In 1819 the Mechlin disappeared. Driven from the plain by the bobbin-net, the warp inaugurated the ornamental. BOOT, ROBERTS, HERBER, and COPESTAKE were the earliest in the field. "Mock-twist," an imitation of the rival bobbin-net, was produced. From these sprang the tatting trade, which gave a wonderful impulse to the warp trade: this was at its height in 1830-31. Machines were now constructed on improved principles, and rotatory action successfully applied. In 1835-6, the silk blond and cotton tattings became greatly depressed, and the bobbin-net machine again outrivalled its forerunner by producing superior ornamented laces.

In 1839 the Jacquard was applied to the warp by DRAPER of Nottingham. A new class of products, of elaborate design, was manufactured, such as shawls, scarfs, mitts, falls, laces, &c. Latterly the products of the twist machine have to a great extent supplanted them.

Great improvements have been made in dressing silk lace. Mr. DUNNICLIFF first followed the French method of working the silk in the singel thread, and in the raw state, instead of the organzine which had previously been used.

Within the last few years many new kinds of manufacture have been attempted from the warp. Elastic woollen cloth for gloves and other purposes was first made by Henry DUNNINGTON of Nottingham. Many new kinds of elastic fabrics for gloves, both in silk and other kinds of material, have been made by Messrs. BALL and Co. A patent for velvet lace was obtained in 1845 by DUNNICLIFFE and DEXTER. The making of velvet, however, was not brought into practical operation till 1849, when Messrs. BALL and DUNNICLIFFE and Messrs. HAINES and HANCOCK, succeeded in making piece velvet suitable for gloves. During 1851 the same parties obtained a patent for making velvet in combination with lace, and other novel weavings, specimens of which were shown in the Great Exhibition. Of the 1,400 warp frames supposed to be now in operation 400 are in Nottinghamshire.

"Tambour" lace is made extensively at Nottingham.

The manufacture of bobbin-net was successfully introduced into France by Nottingham workmen, who established themselves at Calais in 1817 and 1819.

In the manufacture of cotton yarn, or twist, Mr. Samuel CARTLEDGE did much, rendering this country independent of foreign nations for the thread of which bone lace (the making of which used to give employment to a large number of females in Nottingham, previous to the introduction of framework-knitting) is made. In 1805 Mr. CARTLEDGE spun thread sufficiently fine for bobbin-net. It was calculated that his invention added £30,000 annually to the productive labor of the land.

The following gentlemen have contributed to the importance of Nottingham by their inventions of various kinds in the manufacturing of lace: Mr. William CROFTS of New Lenton; Mr. Stephen BATES, New Radford; Messrs. REDGATE and CROPPER, New Sneinton; Mr. Alderman BIRKIN; Messrs. BALL and DUNNICLIFFE, Castle Gate; Messrs. RECKLESS and HICKLING, St Mary's Gate; Mr. William COPE, Broad marsh; Mr. Daniel GILL, Ison Green; Thomas and Edwin ELLIS, Sneinton; Mr. Olive MOORE, New Sneinton; Mr. John SISSLING; George FREEMAN, esquire; John BROWN; James CLARK; Joshua ROPER; John LINDLEY; William BARNES; Joseph CROWDER, &c.

Vickers Lace Company of Nottingham

The Lacemaker's Mailing List

Beautiful Lace Picture - made in Nottingham Lace

Dreams of Lace - These are is basically craft sites BUT they also have pictures of vaious laces - including, Bobbin Lace & Tatting + others. There is a lot about the History of various laces as well. Well worth a visit.