England: York

[This section is in the early stages of development: 9 December 2004]

York is a small medieval city, with Roman (Eboracum) and Viking (Jorvik) roots. White city walls ring much of the central part of the city. Like the city walls of Chester, Cheshire, a narrow pavement is built into the city walls of York, along which it is possible to walk for some considerable distance, with elevated views of the surrounding buildings and spaces. Unlike the city walls of Chester, however, there is neither wheelchair access, nor even access to the people with mobility difficulties, for the steps up to the walls are steep and narrow. Access is free, although a charge is made for museum entry. The street layout inside the city walls is wonderful for wandering, particularly because many of the streets are for pedestrians. Some notable streets are: The Shambles, Parliament Street, Coney Street, St Helen’s Square and Stonegate. Despite its ‘gifte shoppes’ The Shambles (formerly the street of butchers) has a pronounced medieval ambience, and the end closest to the Minster is beside the open air market. Although not as lively as Las Ramblas in Barcelona, Parliament Street is wide, and often has activities taking place along its length, including seasonal markets and fairground rides. There are also several high street banks here. To the right is Coppergate, a clichéd modern shopping development. The Jorvik Viking Centre (entrance: £7.20) offers a unique insight into the Viking roots of York, and a celebration of the archaeological exploration of Coppergate. Through and beyond Coppergate is Clifford’s Tower (entrance: ££; no wheelchair access) (standing impressively on what I believe to have been the Norman motte) in which hundreds of medieval Jewish residents of York took their own lives in preference to being torn to shreds by mobs bent on an anti-Semitic pogrom. Clifford’s Tower appears to rise out of a sea of parked cars, beyond which is The Castle Museum (entrance: ££; wheelchair access, though restricted). The recreated shopping streets from Victorian times are atmospheric. Returning towards the centre of the city, one passes some impressive buildings, including the Magistrates Court and York Institute, both of which I assume to be Victorian. From here, Coney (a corruption of Konig = King) Street offers many of the usual high street chain stores. Towards the other end of Coney Street is the tasteful St Helen’s Square, where there is a post office, and the huge shop windows of Betty’s Tea Rooms. Running from St Helen’s Square to the Minster is Stonegate, which, although just as busy, is both wider and more tasteful than The Shambles, and sports a red, carved wooden ‘printer’s devil’. York Minster (entrance: £4.50) is a beautiful cathedral built in pale stone. Visitors can access the Chapter House, the Zouche Chapel, and the towers. Not far from St Helen’s Square is the art gallery (entrance: free), which has some paintings by the late L.S. Lowrey. During the summer it is especially pleasant to promenade along the banks of the River Ouse, or maybe hire a small motor dingy. The National Railway Museum (entrance: free) is within walking distance of the city centre.

 

There are several places for vegans to eat in York. The Blake Head (104 Micklegate, York; 01-904-623-767), is a both a bookshop and a vegetarian restaurant with a limited menu of soup, quiches and salads, a couple of the dishes being identified as vegan. Much more interesting is El Piano (15-17 Grape Lane, York YO1 7HU; 01-904-610-676; www.elpiano.co.uk; info@elpiano.co.uk), which “grew from the ashes of Gillygate Wholefood Bakery” an ‘alternative’ bakery and restaurant. El Piano is a vegetarian restaurant serving many dishes that are suitable for vegans, and some dishes that are gluten-free. The substantial menu is popular-international, with a strong Latin influence (the name of the director is Magdalene Chavez). The food is served in dishes of one of three sizes: Chica (£2.45), Tapas (£3.95) and Racion (£6.00). Coffee is served in a jug, as it were cafetiere-style, but with a tea-strainer to strain out the grounds as you pour your coffee. The staff all appeared to be young women who have a refreshingly pleasant, helpful attitude. El Piano has a somewhat alternative ambience, although there was no music playing when I ate there, which meant that the clientele (largely 20-somethings) tended to speak in rather quiet tones. Whilst El Piano has an upstairs that is not wheelchair accessible, the ground floor is wheelchair accessible, if rather cramped. Access to the toilets is technically feasible in a wheelchair, although furniture shifting may be required, but the toilets themselves would not take a wheelchair. Vanilla Black (26 Swinegate, York; 01-904-676-750) is a newly-opened vegetarian restaurant, offering “a range of contemporary and imaginative vegetarian cuisine”, with a couple of the dishes being identified as vegan. Whilst I have not eaten there, when I went in to obtain a menu, the ambience felt discreet and stylish. I ate a few times at The Rubicon Vegetarian Restaurant and Bar (5 Little Stonegate, York YO1 3AX; 01-904-676-076) that also serves nice vegan food in a covered courtyard. However, I believe that it might have now closed. York has Tullivers (1-2 Colliergate, York YO1 8BP; 01-904-636-437) that stocks various wholefoods. On Coney Street, not far from St Helen’s Square, is a Holland and Barrett. Whilst there is nothing vegan to eat on the menu, the tea at Betty's Tea Rooms (6-8 St Helens Square, York; 01-904-659-142) is excellent, and the decor wonderful. For the serious beer enthusiast, Beer Ritz / Fabeers (31 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LS; 01-904-628-344; www.fabeers.com; also at 39 High Street, Wetherby, North Yorkshire LS22 6LR; 01-937-588-800) is an off-licence selling a wide range of bottled beers, especially from small, independent breweries, especially breweries local to North East England and to Yorkshire, as well as beers from around the world, particularly Belgium and Germany. (Tip: Samuel Smiths, Bateman’s and Cropton Breweries all label their bottled vegan beers accordingly.)

 

  p.g.h@btinternet.com